Audiophile electrician?

[Kingrex]

I thought it was wow. any ratings on it ?
living down south surging is a big issue
I have a 18kw gen to keep things on but have to use
a bunch of surge protectors

2 microwaves and one tv lost inputs was down to one when I replaced it.
my panel is square d here.
can you post a link to the part please.
mill buy one.
also how does it work
meaning function
how fast and does it need to get replaced

I would have to look up the spec. I am on vacation. It is generic and nothing special. But better than nothing. Always use SPD where you can. I have
never "heard" one.

There are much better SPD that need to be nippled to the side of the can and mounted to a breaker.

 

[Alrainbow]

Thanks enjoy the vacation I just finished a cruise glad to be home

 

[Kingrex]

Thanks enjoy the vacation I just finished a cruise glad to be home

Yes, bummed we could not hook up while I was on the east side of the country.

 

[Kingrex]

I took a pic of my transformer on its pad crazy stuff
is fed single to neutral post high voltage
50kw

Do you have a dedicated utility pad mount?

 

[Kingrex]

A copper bolt down sure seems the better choice

Bolt down have a larger contact area than snap on and the foot itself has a bit more mass than jaws. Once inside any SqD or Eaton breaker, the construction between say a Homeline, QO or Bold on is exactly the same. Same for Eaton. A AFCI is exactly the same up until where it would normally accept the branch wire. From there additional wire, a circuit board and 2 current transformers are added. All the additional wire and contacts are welded, as in the main section of thr breakers.

 

[MarkusBarkus]

...I still have to physically run the #6 cable, but FYI this is a "dry-fit" test of the cable into the outlet I got from Jim W. It's Hubbell, but no model ID.

IMO, it requires modification to allow a good fit. I used a Dremel tool to remove material which allows the conductor deep, full access, so the sheathing does not prevent good fitment.

I also think "splitting" the conductors allows more/better contact with the clamping surfaces.

All that said, glad to receive any additional comments/guidance. Running this cable will be a bear, which is why I have put it off for a couple of weeks now. Pic is just a test with a small piece of the cable.

 

[Kingrex]

I have never seen a duplex rated for #6. #8 is the largest. I have done the same as you Marcus. Splaying the strands evenly allows a solid grip. The more relevant question is how do you fit it in a box without kinking the conductor. Try a double duplex box and use a cover that is a single duplex with a Blank.

You could also land the wire in a 40A twist lock. A way more robust set of contracts. Lower insertion losses. That requires changing the terminations on the power cord.

 

[MarkusBarkus]

...I know you like your twist-loks, @Kingrex and with good reason.

As you noted, I will being using a double box for a single outlet. I plan to run the last section of the cable, through the hole for the outlet box, wire it up, get it in place as I like, and then have a friend pull back the slack, while I guide the box into position, to be affixed.

My hope is this will allow me to secure everything, path it neatly without kinks or loosening anything. Wiring up 10ga. to an outlet is a PITA, let alone this stuff!

I will then make the rest of the run back to the panel.

And I would say, this outlet is not actually "factory designed" to easily accept #6, although the platinum screw/clamping assemblies are purported to allow much greater clamping force without damaging the outlet. They are robust in testing. Always appreciate your comments and observations, K-Rex.

 

[Alrainbow]

Rex what’s your thoughts on soldering of stranded wires under the clamps. ? in the past I did this on critical care devices

i also had to repair an 8 gauge power cord where the plug was not able to handle it
I used both sides of the clamp each group soldered in place to not let the screw clamp alone hold wires in place not a good look but never loosened again lol.

 

[wil]

...I know you like your twist-loks, @Kingrex and with good reason.

As you noted, I will being using a double box for a single outlet. I plan to run the last section of the cable, through the hole for the outlet box, wire it up, get it in place as I like, and then have a friend pull back the slack, while I guide the box into position, to be affixed.

My hope is this will allow me to secure everything, path it neatly without kinks or loosening anything. Wiring up 10ga. to an outlet is a PITA, let alone this stuff!

I will then make the rest of the run back to the panel.

And I would say, this outlet is not actually "factory designed" to easily accept #6, although the platinum screw/clamping assemblies are purported to allow much greater clamping force without damaging the outlet. They are robust in testing. Always appreciate your comments and observations, K-Rex.

I have the same wire and outlet. The outlet handles the wire fine and the screw/clamp is very secure. My system is in my own space, so I don't have to worry about how it looks. I just ran the 6g outside from the main panel, drilled a hole through the wall and have the wire and outlet out of the way but loose on the floor.

 

[MarkusBarkus]

...I would have to add-in the cost of a divorce attorney if I used that method here. But glad to hear it all clamped fine, etc. I have about 10' in-wall, and the rest in open floor-joists to the panel.

Theoretically/mathematically, the impedence difference and voltage drop calc between 6ga. and 10ga. (or12) is substantial. Did you find a noticeable difference re: SQ @wil ?

 

[Kingrex]

This is a round about answer.

I have sat at my main panel and gone back and forth with aluminum ground/neutral bars and bare copper. I can hear a slight veil with the aluminum. As a client put it, aluminum is a little more grainy and soft in the top end. He felt that was a contradiction, but its how he heard it.

So if I were to take a wire, tin it, then put it under a clamp. Hmmmmmm...

If I were to take a wire and put it under a clamp then solder it in place. For me, a lot less hmmmm. I have a solid metal to metal contact before I use the solder to lock it in place.

If I were Will, I would ditch the outlet altogether and put a female IEC on the end of the wire and go right into the Sound Application device. Or any other strip/filter for that matter. You will never beat an unbroken wire with a receptacle/cord end connection. But its not code compliant. All coreds are to have a plug on both ends.

I actually like Markus idea and have done it myself. The part of pulling slack in the box, making it up, then pulling the slack/device back into the box and setting it in place. Just make sure to leave extra wire in the wall that can be pulled back into the box at a later date. Don't pull the wire tight and have 3" of tale to fight when it comes loose or you want a different duplex.

And I would not leave a single #6 under a clamp. I feel it rocks the clamp too much. The clamp may bend and deflect over time letting the contact become loose. This makes an arc and fire. Again like Markus, I splay the wire, then I fit it under the clamp. You can splay it and fit it all under 1 clamp. Half on either side of the screw. Now the clamp comes down flat with the screw head flat to the clamp. You could solder it shut like Al did. Although soldering a clamp and wire takes a robust iron and skill. You dont want to go melting insulation or duplex casing. I would not solder it unless I felt confident in my skills having done it many times in the past. My guess is Al was working in a commercial setting where reliability is paramount. And I have never listened to a duplex with the connection wired shut. I don't know if it would impact the sonics.

 

[Alrainbow]

At one point I was doing maintenance on lservices on high power 600 volt or less power distribution boards
using temp scanning cameras showed hot spots
but copper wires over time get loose unless they were made to a correct pressure in an approved lug. most all don’t use a tork wrench set to a lug maker settings
This brings me back to outlets and in line connectors and Proper install.
a tined wire stays better but to solder all in place yes messy lol will stay a lifetime
now how it sounds I can’t say and Rex knows far better what’s best then I do.

 

[MarkusBarkus]

...I wish I had a torq spec. It's amazing (to me) how many manufacturers...in many areas...don't have specs for fixtures. I'm a bicycle mechanic across multiple decades: gimme a torq spec! At least now, with all the carbon gear, manufacturers insist on a torq spec. Amen.

Sorry to get OT, but that's a pet irritant of mine. I likely won't solder the finished assembly (although I see the value), but will think on tinning the ends. Jim provided the cable with one end cleaned and "wrapped." I think he may dip them into a commercial cleaner of some sort. In any case, I appreciate the exchange. Good reminder on not pulling back all the slack for future access.

 

[wil]

...I would have to add-in the cost of a divorce attorney if I used that method here. But glad to hear it all clamped fine, etc. I have about 10' in-wall, and the rest in open floor-joists to the panel.

Theoretically/mathematically, the impedence difference and voltage drop calc between 6ga. and 10ga. (or12) is substantial. Did you find a noticeable difference re: SQ @wil ?

MarcusBarkus, I am a Bad Audiophile. I do not carefully do before and after listening tests every time I change anything. And sometimes when I do go to the trouble, I don't hear a darn thing. For instance, I recently disconnected my earth ground in order to make a better connection. I listened to a reference track before reconnecting and then again after and heard no change at all. And this is with a nice low resistance grounding. The 6g wire upgrade makes sense to me, so I just did it.

 

[wil]

...I wish I had a torq spec. It's amazing (to me) how many manufacturers...in many areas...don't have specs for fixtures. I'm a bicycle mechanic across multiple decades: gimme a torq spec! At least now, with all the carbon gear, manufacturers insist on a torq spec. Amen.

Sorry to get OT, but that's a pet irritant of mine. I likely won't solder the finished assembly (although I see the value), but will think on tinning the ends. Jim provided the cable with one end cleaned and "wrapped." I think he may dip them into a commercial cleaner of some sort. In any case, I appreciate the exchange. Good reminder on not pulling back all the slack for future access.

Jim suggested I use denture cleaner. Works great!

 

[MarkusBarkus]

Jim suggested I use denture cleaner. Works great!

...but you have to use mint flavor to retain top-end. I know exactly what you mean re: changes. Sometimes, you just go for it when it makes sense. No worries...your audiophile credentials remain intact!

 

[Kingrex]

People putting their fingers on the copper leaves oil deposits that speed up oxidation. Cotton gloves help. Alcohol will clean some too. I have not tested any deox or gold contact enhancer. I usually go bare copper.

When you get the wires under the clamp and fairly tight, flex them back and forth, then tighten agian, then flex a little more, then tighten again. Then get your receptacle in place and shove it into the box. Work it around until its flat and set correct to screw into place. Then do a final torque on the wire screws, then land the box screws. The last step is critical. If you screw the wires tights, then crank the receptacle all around till its in place and don't retighten, they will have come loose.

10s should look like this when you land them.

 

[Alex G]

Just found this thread! Nice!

About to redo my whole home power infrastructure, hopefully with @Kingrex. I have Jim's PGI TT7, his 6awg outlet as above, and was going to order Jim's 6awg wire soon. I know a number of folks who have this setup but not sure I have ever heard people describe it or if anyone has ever A/B tested Jim's wire vs something else in an optimized setup like we're discussing here. Any thoughts / feedback would be really appreciated.

I was also wondering the merits of running one single leg of the 6awg wire 75' feet into the TT7 (via an outlet), or whether a subpanel along the way with shorter 10awg runs from that had its own merits. Or possibly doing 2 x 6awg dedicated runs even though I only have 1 TT7...and would never buy a second! But, have people split off subs or any other components onto their own circuit and not run those through the TT7.

Lots of questions and maybe other forums to be on but thought I'd ask you all especially as @MarkusBarkus looks like he's mid-project.

 

[Alex G]

It sounds like you've got a big project on your hands! Finding an electrician who understands both the technical aspects and the nuances of audio can be a challenge. But sometimes, fellow hobbyists can recommend professionals who share their passion.

Thanks! I forgot about this thread. I already finished this project with a willing local electrician and @Kingrex from afar. Rex was really amazing (Thanks Rex!). Can’t thank him enough. He built my panel and supplied his own grain-oriented solid core 10awg wire for 2 of the lines (1 to rack, 1 to power network). I then did another line using 6awg wire from Jim @ Sound Applications. It literally took 2 years for me to find a local electrician and get him to finish this as it was somewhat involved in terms of access in my house. Anyway, sounds great now!