Caig Deoxit G100

[oldvinyl]

A few months ago I entered into discussion with Caig on their Deoxit products. I was looking for an anti oxidant because my panel test have shown that bare copper contacts are superior to any coated contacts I have heard. Maybe the silver is fine. But I don't like tin, so I remove it in my SqD offerings. I don't have any coating on my custom panels. They are all bare copper. The tin is there to inhibit corrosion. But its a horrible conductor. And dissimilar metals galvanically dissolve one another. Generally the noble element eats the less noble. Anyhow, take any noise sniffer and put it by a connection point and they tell you something is going on.

Since my surfaces are bare copper, I wanted to slow the oxidation that builds on the surface. Hence I started looked for a product to apply. I looked at Flitz, Stabilant 22, silver paste and others. In the end I settled on Deoxit by Caig. I like you can sink a computer board into the solution and it wont arch out. Some other solutions are dangerous in they are conductive like silver paste and some commercial deox solution.

In some recent conversations with Mike from Caig I became more convinced I should apply it to my stereo connections. I had bought a bottle of 100% solution.

DeoxIT® Gold, #G100L-25C (Needle Dispenser) - CAIG

DeoxIT® Gold G100L Needle Dispenser, 100% solution, 25 mL, (Applications = 1250 +/- drops, 0.02 ml/drop)Part No. G100L-25C (25 mL)

caig.com

The 2 oz bottle is about $69.

In the first stage I pulled my power cords and coated the prongs on the male side. I did not have a way to get into the female blades. I might go back and use a toothpick. I also treated the signal RCA connections as well as the ethernet and USB on my server/DAC
Immediately I heard a higher level of clarity and bit more snap and pop. The music was more alive.

FWIW, I am applying the solution by wetting the tip of a Qtip and wiping the surfaces. If you tear most of the cotton off the end, the Qtip will fit into RCA holes.

In the second stage I went all through my speaker connections. My PAP Trio 15 Coax speaker have an external crossover and the connections to the drivers are exposed. I treated all the surfaces. Every connection on the crossover and the contacts on the drivers. I also went over the spades on the speaker cables at the crossover and the amp. This resulted in a more notable jump in dynamics and life. The music is much more alive. In now way do I sense this as artificial. Its very natural and more like my equipment is doing what is suppose to do the best it can.

In the last stage I dove into my phono preamp. I pulled all the tubes and treated the pins. Driver and signal. I did not dump G100 down the pins. You are not suppose to do that. Wipe it on. You want a thin film and that is it. I was not trying to be cautious and keep from touching the glass. In a sense I wanted to know if the higher voltages on the driver would arch over with the Deoxit. I also pulled the cartridge tags and treated the pins. I went back through the RCA and power connections while I was at it. OMG. My vinyl is a magnitude better. In truth, my entire system is a magnitude better. I sat this morning and was captivated through an entire album side. I sort of sat in awe. It is absolutely the finest my stereo has ever performed.

What's really nice about this product is it leaves a thin film that has a very slow evaporation rate. The product is suppose to remain active for 15 year or more. Kind of a one and done. Not something you have to think about every year. Maybe in 5 years it would be a good process to repeat.

In conclusion, I find the Caig Deoxit G100 to be safe. I have used it on breaker, main electrical feeder, signal, USB, ethernet, tube sockets and I have never had a negative experience. I don't see any downside to it. I only see upside. It should help maintain a positive connection that is oxidizing at a much slower rate than previously. I don't believe this product will become a insulator when it starts to dry like over deoxing agents can do. See this section for test reports.

Articles and Reports - CAIG

TESTS / REPORTS / ARTICLES TESTS (T1) Applied Science explains and compares corrosion protection. NOTE: Concerning their simple corrosion mixture; this mixt ...

caig.com

I have heard from enough other professions in associated industry using the product for many year. They are not reporting issues I have heard of.

On the plus side, my stereo absolutely performs at a higher level all around. Its much more engaging. Its more alive. More real. Its much more captivating and holding of your attention when you turn it on. You want to sit and absorb it. You don't want to walk away. I am particularly pleased with how it impacted the speakers and the vinyl. The power connections are important in a different way. In the power chain, and RCA, I noticed more of a clean. There was dynamic gain, but the clean was well pronounced. The phono was a more alive and vibrant gain. And the overall treatment has left the impression the bass is a little more hot. More full, seems to be a little lower in tone and more tight and pronounced. Everything is very balanced. They dynamic boost I got from this was maybe a tad more than I got when I added my Torus transformer. Even though there was a sense of clean, the Torus was a much larger level of gain in this area. Wiping RF out of your system is noise you don't know is there till its gone. And it may be there in a larger amount than you might imagine.

See the 2 links I posted. I like the needle dropper. The spray is going to get all over. I like to use the needle dropper to wet a Qtip. Then I apply it in a thin film. Wipe it right down into the blades of an ethernet or usb. It will be fine. I would not pour from the dropper into these slots. A thin film. Same for tubes. Don't dump it into the socket. Wipe the pins. I am always a little cautious about getting it on the glass. But I have not had an arching issue yet. And other have told me they do this too. You can jam small pin tubes through a piece of paper, then apply if it makes you feel better. This keeps any from making contact across the glass.

On the professional side, I have ordered packs of wipes and small aerosol cans. Any installation I am involved in, I have the electrician wipe the stripped wire leads before landing. I also like the little spray bottles for terminal lugs and large gauge service or feeder wires to penetrate the strands.

DeoxIT®, #D5S-2 (Twin-Pack #D5S-2-2X) - CAIG

One mini-spray in a blister-pack, the second without. Spray, provides flushing action, briefly flammable (until solvent evaporates within 2-3 minutes.

caig.com

I have sprayed this on mains and branch circuit connections. The D series has more agents designed to break down corrosion than the G series. If it new wire, use the G. If its an older service and you want to use product, use the D series. Use the gold needle dropper on your stereo.

Rex

Starting from post tube pin and socket cleaning posts in the Vinyl/phonostage forum, there is lots of info on cleaning connectors, AC plugs and IEC socket, tube pins and sockets.

While I do use some of the red Caig DeOxIt on occasion, I always clean off any remaining residue with Kontak.

I learned the hard way long ago about using any product that leaves a residue - especially on tube sockets.

The Flitz simply removes oxidation - all of it. It is not meant as a contact enhancer itself other than that it removes the oxidation which of course naturally results in better contact.

The effect of cleaning all the contacts, pins, sockets, etc is pretty amazing. Just using Flitz on the prongs of an AC plug (not the wall receptacle) will have a large impact.

 

[kennyb123]

Just using Flitz on the prongs of an AC plug (not the wall receptacle) will have a large impact

Yes it will. The captive cords that have connectors made out of who-knows-what metal can actually benefit a lot from Flitz.

 

[Kingrex]

Deoxit makes a polishing compound too. That is what Flitz seems to say it is.

I would be sparse in my use of anything that is rubbing away metal. And polish does nothing to inhibit galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals or oxidation over time. It is my belief you want to slow oxidation and galvanic reaction as much as possible.

I have heard from many people using Deoxit for many many years. Some of the nicest systems I have seen have a can of deoxit on an accessory shelf. And it is being used.

 

[Kingrex]

As I have worked through my system in waves, I find the following to be a gauge of where the greatest sonic impacts were.
1. Vinyl and tape equipment
2. Speaker terminals and crossover connections
3. Interconnects and power terminations.
4. Digital ethernet and USB

If you want to try this stuff, this small tube of 2mL is $8 buck. It will do your whole system a few times. I am confident you will be happy.
FWIW, if you have subwoofers, you will probably have to adjust the blend after applying this to your system. Maybe, maybe not. I don't know.
I only say because well blended subs seem to take a very delicate touch to get it all correct.

DeoxIT® Gold, #G100L-2C (Squeeze Tube) - CAIG

DeoxIT® Gold G100L, Squeeze Tube, 100% solution, 2 mL,(Applications = 50 +/- drops, 0.04 ml/drop)Part No. G100L-2C (2 mL)Great for OEMs - Include with your equipment! (Contact CAIG for pricing)

caig.com

 

[kennyb123]

As I have worked through my system in waves, I find the following to be a gauge of where the greatest sonic impacts were.
1. Vinyl and tape equipment
2. Speaker terminals and crossover connections
3. Interconnects and power terminations.
4. Digital ethernet and USB

For a frame of reference, what were you using prior to Deoxit and when was the last time you worked through your system with it?

 

[Kingrex]

I have never treated contacts through my audio equipment chain like I have with Deoxit.

I did do tube pins with Ilsco DEOX. It worked on my CJ amp. But I did have to clean short across the tube glass base after applying it. That kept me from going further at that time. I became very cautious of all contact enhancers. I did not at the time realize some contact treatments were conductive and others not. I thought all were conductive, some such as silver more than others. Deoxit is not conductive but still create an enhanced contact.

I have for many years applied Ilsco in panelboards and branch terminations. In the past I have used green pads and sand paper to clean panelboard contacts that corroded. Don't use steel wool. Fibers can fall and cause a catastrophic short.

Over the years I have PM with people and gotten feedback from others on treatment. Its part of why I tried deoxit.

I mostly made the plunge with Deoxit when my professional focus became, copper is king. Copper contact on all my behind the wall materials. I validated I do not like plating. Especially tin. And tin is all over. So I remove it. Silver can be a good plate, but come on, silver oxidizes faster than copper. And a copper CB foot bolted to a sliver plated bus finger is reacting. So I went looking for a protective surface to keep mated contact as corrosion free as can be over many years. Using Deoxit was an out reach from my hyper detail to attention with behind the wall power. Having the product in hand, it only seemed logical to try it with my audio equipment.

Aluminum is the devil when it comes to audio. Here is a typical example I see quite often. This is an outdoor main disconnect to a northern California home. Look at this neutral bar. I believe a part of why its so bad is the copper stand off holding the small termination ground bars. The copper and aluminum are reacting with each other. The utility neutral is landing on the left in the single lug. I guarantee that lug has oxidation between it and the plate. The plate is then bolted to another plate that holds lugs and small terminal bars. Those contacts are rotten. This neutral will be broken apart, a red pad to remove loose debris, then deoxit before reassembling. If deoxit had been used when the panel was installed, I am confident the amount of corrosion would be significantly less. If non at all. I use it on all my copper panels. I tear all my panels down, polish, damp with polymers, deoxit then reassemble and torque.

If you look at this panel, top left, you can see its fed by bus bars over the top, then into a split bus configuration. This is actually a pretty decent panel to work with. Those 2 open blades across from the 100A breaker, those have no CB main in front of them. They are live from the meter. Dangerous, but less connections/CB between your audio panel and the utility transformer. The bus on top is also copper. After it jumps through the 200A main to below, the lower bus is aluminum. Guess where this guys Subpanel CB will be landed.

I also guarantee you the bus from the meter to the main is corroded. I wish I could open the meter section and clean in there. It would have a profound impact on the equipment. I may have the electrician call the utility to break the seal, open it, spray it down, then close it. Some utility will let you do that, some won't.

FWIW, I have been spraying a product called Yamashield on all the exposed metal parts on my boat motor. It must be like deoxit. I coat all the electronics on my motor. My motor and electronics are totally free of any corrosion. A Yamaha repair tech told me to use it. I also used it on all my battery connections when I rebuilt the electrical system. 3 years later and all my terminations are absolutely free of corrosion. Not bad for a boat this is strictly used in salt water about 20 times a year. There is not a spot of white crust at any of my 3 battery terminals.

 

[MarkusBarkus]

...nice post @Kingrex
Just say "no" to aluminum.

 

[kende]

Hello
I use stabilant 22A contact enhancer, it is better than Caig deoxit .Before I used Caig. no remaining residue after time.
It is used in the aviation industry. I applied it on my tube pins, amp and speaker connectors, rca . Snake or not snake oil but it works.
Regarding the audio effect, increase in clarity, dynamics, extension. I do not know if placebo effect or not but in my case is there.
D.W Electrochemicals ltd makes it in Ontario .Canada

 

[MarkusBarkus]

...I have used regular Stabilant 22 on auto "electrics" for many years. The 22A is just cut w-alcohol. FYI on hifi stuff:

https://stabilant.com/Appnote15.pdf

 

[Kingrex]

Stabilant did not have a very knowledgeable rep. In the end they said the product was only tested for 100 volts and less. They told me dont use it on 120 volt power.

 

[kende]

Stabilant did not have a very knowledgeable rep. In the end they said the product was only tested for 100 volts and less. They told me dont use it on 120 volt power.

Hi Kingrex
I am using on 230 volt power since my system works on 230V with step up converter. No issue so far regarding the stabilant 22a

 

[Kingrex]

I assume Stabilant works fine. If someone wants to start a thread and do some sort of comparison, please do. I will happily read it. I am always open to options.

At some point you have to make a decision. I can not blow along with the wind every time some person walks up and says what they use is the best.

Deoxit has a very full product line. Cleaners, buffers and solutions. They answer my emails. Their product works very well with everything I have tried it on. I have no interest at this time in spending probably 10 hours to thoroughly clean all the contact points in my system inside and out, and then reapplying some other product. And I don't think doing as such would achieve any meaningful comparison on performance. Maybe if I had the exact same DAC and server and did a head to head comparison. If I did as such, I honesly believe no one would hear a difference between the two in a blind test. I bet sonically, they sound exactly the same.

As long as the Deoxit keeps tarnish and oxidation off electrical contacts, it is doing exactly what I want it to do. That I heard a meaningful uptick in sonic performance is a bonus.

Rex

 

[kennyb123]

As long as the Deoxit keeps tarnish and oxidation off electrical contacts, it is doing exactly what I want it to do. That I heard a meaningful uptick in sonic performance is a bonus.

I should also point out that Deoxit D100L had no problem whatsoever removing that HFC contact enhancer you warned against us using.

 

[theclipper]

Great thread! @Kingrex are you cleaning these various contact surfaces with anything prior to applying the Deoxit G100? Or is that not necessary?

 

[Kingrex]

If you have a dirty surface such as the one above, Deoxit makes a polish. Its not really necessary. It makes it look pretty. I am more about functionality. I would use the D series in a spray. You still want to break apart contact surfaces to allow the product to really penetrate between the mated materials. You could use the polish between the mated material but its not really helping. A green pad might drag out some of the grime. Spray the G series over the top, wipe it off, then reattach the lugs or bars.

FWIW, the wire I noted in the image is not the feed. The feed is a bar through the side. I am going to move that wire and have a new 3 barrel lug installed for all things audio.

 

[kennyb123]

I had always used D-series first, followed by G-series. It seems that first step might have been unnecessary. This is from their web page for the G-series. What I can say is that I had always seen evidence that the D-series was removing oxidation so no regrets on having used it first.

“[G-series is] Recommended for critical applications where only slight deoxidizing action is necessary. If the surface looks clean, applying DeoxIT D-Series contact/connector treatment first is usually not necessary. DeoxIT® Gold is designed to dissolve small amounts of oxidation. Apply DeoxIT® Gold after DeoxIT® D-Series on plated metal surfaces, except where noted with DeoxIT® Shield S-Series below. The more critical the connection or part, especially low current applications, DeoxIT® Gold should be the final step.”

 

[Jeffy]

I've noticed the same improvements in sound after cleaning everything with 99% alcohol.

 

[theclipper]

I've been cleaning my old NOS tube pins with 99% alcohol, but wondering if I'd be better off using some D-series DeoxIT instead.

 

[Kingrex]

I am a big advocate of cleaning. I don't know that alcohol has any ability to slow or stop oxidation. My guy says it would speed it up. A better dissimilar metal to metal contact.

2 dissimilar metals in contact with each other electrically react with each other. Its a scientifically known phenomenon. In most utility specifications for installation they say you will use Deox on aluminum service wires.

Deoxit is there to keep oxidation from occuring. Oxidation is an electrical phenomenon as electrons move from onr metal to another. I don't know if the reason we hear oxidized contacts is the process itself of electron movement, or the degraded contact loosing its impedance and having less current carrying capability. At some point it also begins to more aggressively anf arc. Then it burns apart.

I have not tried this. I don't know if I went through everything with a solvent and cleaned it, if I wouldn't hear a lot of what I heard using Deoxit. But I'm fairly confident that after 6 months the solvent cleaned contacts would have oxidation on them again and be loosing metal, contact and overall degrading. I am confident the surfaces with any brand of deoxing agent would be in better condition. Like I noted earlier, I used Yamashileld on my boat. A similar product I assume. I then wrapped the contacts in teflon tape, then vinyl tape or shrink wrap. The exposed ends where bolted to a switch or battery terminal are pristine 3 years later.

I am not a Deoxit dealer. If you want to use Stabilant 22, go ahead. Its probably 6 to one, a half dozen to another. I started the thread because I heard a profound positive impact and technically it should be a benefit and not do harm to use a quality deoxing agent.

I still feel a contact enhancement agent that can arc over like silver paste is dangerous.

 

[Kingrex]

Consider this, on my boat there are zinc anodes all over. They are a metal, low on the noble scale. They will give up their electrons first. They are physically eaten away after 3 years or so and have to be replaced. Oxidation is eating the metal to metal surfaces on your audio gear. Not near as aggressively as metal in salt water.

I can see no reason why anyone would want to let the process continue.

Every job I look at with an outdoor service distribution, I see the need to remove oxisstion and slow the process in the future. It has become a part of my standard spec procedures.

I think I showed this in another thread. This is a pretty crusty services. Look at the lugs at the top of the service. This was put into service in the 80s and is almost ready to be thrown away. Its getting near failure. Once the metal is gone, its gone. Treating it does not bring it back. I have all these contacts sprayed with the DN5S-2N. I use the non flamible, non drip. Don't use the regular D series in a panel. It is possible a spark could ignite the carrier propellant and start a fire. Once the carrier has evaporated, the remaining solution is the same.

You can spray every wire terminal on every breaker. And every termination on the ground and neutral. I may do a video one day. You don't want to go overboard. A tiny amount at each contact is all you need. You don't want a dripping mess. Wipe away excess.