This may be a dumb question, but is there a set amount of time you need to wait after applying the DeoxIT Gold before turning the electronics back on?
No. If you use a spray the propellant will evaporate in seconds. The solution itself is a very slow evaporation and should remain for many years.This may be a dumb question, but is there a set amount of time you need to wait after applying the DeoxIT Gold before turning the electronics back on?
Thanks! Looking forward to testing out the G100 on my system this weekend.No. If you use a spray the propellant will evaporate in seconds. The solution itself is a very slow evaporation and should remain for many years.
Oxidation (the black stuff that accumulates on a metal) is from the metal's interaction with oxygen (hence oxi-dation). Dissimilar metal interaction is a different phenomena - called electromigration. Both will interfere with conductivity in contacts. Oxidation can also be more prevalent around contacts with higher voltages - such as power connections.I am a big advocate of cleaning. I don't know that alcohol has any ability to slow or stop oxidation. My guy says it would speed it up. A better dissimilar metal to metal contact.
2 dissimilar metals in contact with each other electrically react with each other. Its a scientifically known phenomenon. In most utility specifications for installation they say you will use Deox on aluminum service wires.
Deoxit is there to keep oxidation from occuring. Oxidation is an electrical phenomenon as electrons move from onr metal to another. I don't know if the reason we hear oxidized contacts is the process itself of electron movement, or the degraded contact loosing its impedance and having less current carrying capability. At some point it also begins to more aggressively anf arc. Then it burns apart.
I have not tried this. I don't know if I went through everything with a solvent and cleaned it, if I wouldn't hear a lot of what I heard using Deoxit. But I'm fairly confident that after 6 months the solvent cleaned contacts would have oxidation on them again and be loosing metal, contact and overall degrading. I am confident the surfaces with any brand of deoxing agent would be in better condition. Like I noted earlier, I used Yamashileld on my boat. A similar product I assume. I then wrapped the contacts in teflon tape, then vinyl tape or shrink wrap. The exposed ends where bolted to a switch or battery terminal are pristine 3 years later.
I am not a Deoxit dealer. If you want to use Stabilant 22, go ahead. Its probably 6 to one, a half dozen to another. I started the thread because I heard a profound positive impact and technically it should be a benefit and not do harm to use a quality deoxing agent.
I still feel a contact enhancement agent that can arc over like silver paste is dangerous.
Good distinction - the galvanic corrosion requires two different metals and an electrolyte --- such as water. Given the location of the Statue of Liberty corrosion would be significant....I think we are actually describing oxidation and in some cases galvanic corrosion between two dissimilar metals with greater anodic index/voltage values.
Remember when they had to rehab the Statue of Liberty because it was unsafe? The copper sheathing was "dissolving" the steel structure.
I think periodically cleaning our connectors/lugs/terminals is good practice. Applying a protective "solution" as @Kingrex described is best practice.
Actually - the Flitz product is a polish and it will de-oxidize. It will clean, polish, de-oxidize and protect. But, it leaves a waxy protective film - I go over it a final time with Kontak to remove the wax. Using Flitz does improve sound - reduces noise floor and reduces haze/glare in higher frequencies.Old vinyl and Markus are absolutely right. There are 2 type of activities going on here that degrade contacts. On degraded equipment, it is best to clean with the D, then wipe off any excess and use G over the top. And if you really want to make copper or aluminum look bright, you have to use the polish. But Rob at Deoxit said the polish only makes things look good. It is not improving anything. The D cleans best and the G protects best.
Thanks for clarifying Old Vinyl and Markus.
These are the 2 products I asked about. I may get some for my new panels. Even a brand new panel has tarnish looking spots on the bus after applying the D and G. D and G don't make them glossy polished bright. Functionally they are as good as can be. But an expensive product in my mind should have a bright polished look. That is what the CL products will do.Actually - the Flitz product is a polish and it will de-oxidize. It will clean, polish, de-oxidize and protect. But, it leaves a waxy protective film - I go over it a final time with Kontak to remove the wax. Using Flitz does improve sound - reduces noise floor and reduces haze/glare in higher frequencies.
Caig DeOxit has a similar product on their web site. It cleans and de-oxidizes. Wonder why they said their polish that does not deoxidize?
These 2 will remove oxidation:
DeoxIT® Metal Cleaner, Scrub & Polish, #CL-MSP-12, 354 mL - CAIG
DeoxIT® Metal Cleaner, Scrub & Polish, Bottle, 12 FL. OZ. (354 mL) (Photo to left shows customer feedback) "Made in USA" Part No. CL-MSP-12 (56 g)caig.comDeoxIT® Metal Cleaner, Restorer & Polish, #CL-MCP-12, 354 mL - CAIG
DeoxIT® Metal Cleaner, Restorer & Polish, Bottle, 12 FL. OZ. (354 mL) (Photo to left shows customer feedback) "Made in USA" Part No. CL-MCP-12 (56 g)caig.com
You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.These are the 2 products I asked about. I may get some for my new panels. Even a brand new panel has tarnish looking spots on the bus after applying the D and G. D and G don't make them glossy polished bright. Functionally they are as good as can be. But an expensive product in my mind should have a bright polished look. That is what the CL products will do.
After polishing you are suppose to wipe it off and go over it with the G
You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.
A few years back, I used Flitz to clean and shine some large sheets of copper, it worked amazingly well. Any time I use it to clean copper AC plug blades, they look shiny as new.
But even when it is clean, as soon as you touch it, the oils from your hands will start the tarnish cycle anew. Gloves will help.
Tube pins after cleaning with Flitz --You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.
A few years back, I used Flitz to clean and shine some large sheets of copper, it worked amazingly well. Any time I use it to clean copper AC plug blades, they look shiny as new.
But even when it is clean, as soon as you touch it, the oils from your hands will start the tarnish cycle anew. Gloves will help.
Does the Flitz leave any residue.You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.
A few years back, I used Flitz to clean and shine some large sheets of copper, it worked amazingly well. Any time I use it to clean copper AC plug blades, they look shiny as new.
But even when it is clean, as soon as you touch it, the oils from your hands will start the tarnish cycle anew. Gloves will help.
I apply it with a paper towel and polish it with microfiber cloth.Does the Flitz leave any residue.
You can always tell who worked on switchgear many years later because there are very clear finger prints on all the bars.
All I can say is I am very satisfied with how clean, lively and overall enjoyable my fairly humble stereo in relative terms sounds. There is no fatigue. No glare. It has very satisfying bass.