Desert island R2R 1/4" 2 track master player

headblock terminal assy

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from below...has to be taken out to desolder and solder on new wires for heads

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lots of fun......

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in/out goes to the right and heads wiring to the left
repro boards to the right

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motherboard slot side
repro boards to the right
in/out bottom
heads on top

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motherboard mounted back on audio pcb slot "casette"

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XLR in/out terminal assy back in place and all wires nicely dressed
soldered cables directly on XLR terminals to avoid flimsy contacts on pcb, but kept connections to pcb as well to keep ferrits and ceramic caps in circuit

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seen from below and ready to listen

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listening to machine now
started with a production copy from DR(Danish Radio) and a choir with various works performed in a competition in 1989
more delicate, harmonics are richer and smoother at the same time
now a safety master with Julian Cannonball Adderley: Something Else
more intimate, smoother and more crisp at the same time.....very easy flowing without loosing any impact
wonder how this will develop in a couple of days....
 
Splendid! So, you're going directly from your repro (and record?) sound head to an external preamp?
What are you using
:confused:
 
hi Sam
No Im using he onboard cards, but heavily rebuilt after a recipee and with parts from Todor Dimitrov of Mastertapesoundlab in Thessaloniki, Greece
Includes a stiff, regulated custom audio psu board, which make all the difference in the world
It sounds better than with an all out tube buffer I tried in the second stage after eq.
even harmonics are better
best
Leif
 
Hi Leif,

Thanks for the info. I may be able to get my Studer tech to fabricate a balanced line amp (replacing the Studer line amp) -- using discrete op amp technology -- which was used in a mastering console for this gentleman:

http://futurediscsystems.com/Steves_Bio.html

It would seem there are a few ways to approach things: intercepting the electrical information before the repro head preamp...after the repro head preamp...after the repro amp, etc. For me, I need the signal to be conducted approximately 15-20 feet to the audio rig preamp, if necessary. In a different scenario, the signal would need travel only 3 feet for dubs between decks.
 
Hi S
A modern opamp in the headblock amp (must be A810 or A820? same pcbs.....) will do the trick
try replacing the 5532 with a 49720ha metalcan and it ll drive any length of cable :cool:
try replacing all 5532 in both your repro and line pcb with a stacked film 0,1µF across leg 4 and 8 and you ll seriously consider if you need to go external
try setting dipswitches on your line pcb with 0,3 and 8 set to off pushed down on opposite side of sw no. (take pic BEFORE you do :rolleyes: ) and pull out M/S switch pcb
rewire entire audio path and stay internal.....
in sum the differences are huge
best
Leif
 
Leif,

Thanks for the information. :) I'm informed the balanced line amp is based on a Borbely design with massive rail voltages...+/- 24 V or something like that.
My decks are A820-2CH.

That tape looks divine and expect it sounds that way, too! :cool:
 
found another candidate for desert island master machine

bought for the Lillehammer Olympics in 1994...has about 40hrs on it after .....
very little TLC was needed
not quite finished yet, but already mint
sounds up there with A810 and A80 in first tape...

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Thxs a lot Ki
now that I have this extensive documentation for the Frida, I plan to make this little great little sleek design machine, an even better sounding one.
will do same as the A810s--recap and replace all double TL072 opamps with NLE49720 metalcans
this will lead to less heat, du to extremely low powerconsumption, less noise and much more resolved and exquisite sound....
just have to finish the A80s first
only minor stuff left...
best
Leif
 
hi had the Lyrec to my local tech for calibration last weekend
measured perfect after no adjustments from 1994!
no measurable flutter or noise
20-25K within 0,25db!
talk about build quality!
will test it with todays arrival
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