Detailed Speaker Setup and Optimization

Tape measures, levels and lasers are all good tools to help get the speakers into a good starting position. I use the Digi-pas 1500XY which is good to 3 decimal places.

Last week I went to someone's home to integrate a pair of subwoofers with a pair of Magnapan 3.7i. He has them sitting on carpet while he waits on the much improved stand. The sound was very thin. Last night I went back over and this time I took my level and some shims. I set the level on the base of the Maggie's and the left was something like 0.108 back and the right was 0.135 back. I place the shims on the back between the base and the carpet and pushed them under until the level read 0.000 on both speakers. Sat back down and listened and it was so much better. The music gained a lot of body and most of the thin-ness was gone. This took me about 5 minutes. I am not saying this is the ideal rake angle, just that the speakers are at least vertical and matched.

I give this as an example as we are talking about detailed speaker setup. But when I go into a lot of people homes the speakers are way off. In most cases the owners aren't sure what to do to fix the problems they are hearing. And they don't have even the basic tools to measure where they are or simply aren't aware that they even should do this type of thing. When I was done the guy asked about the level and said he was going to get one. This really makes me happy. This guy now has some ideas on how to work with speakers and is going to get some tools so he can experiment on his own.
Hello Todd,

So nice of you to help this person!

So there was a .027" difference in backward tilt between the two loudspeakers?
 
In the end it doesn't seem to really matter if one ear is a few mm higher or lower than the other. When everything is dialed in it just works.

When this thread comes up from time to time there always seem to be comments where people are concerned that to adjust speakers to a high level of accuracy the listeners head must have to be locked in a vice. It is a paradoxical that it is actually the opposite that is true. During the setup I do sit back in the listening chair, generally sit up and listen with my head fairly still. But I don't really try to lock it in a vice to do this. After the set up is complete I am free to move my head without feeling like things are shifting all over the place. The sound field is actually quite uniform.
It should be of no surprise to you that I share the same exact observations as you do. Even though we have differing systems, we have the same observations.

Tom
 
Hello Todd,

So nice of you to help this person!

So there was a .027" difference in backward tilt between the two loudspeakers?
Yes, but the main problem was that they were both raked back. Anyone who knows anything about panels knows that if they are going to rake any direction it is forward.

Using the Shims and standing them both perfectly vertical had a profound impact on the sound. As I said, before they were thin, thin, thin sounding. After the rake adjustment, poof, the sound has body. He also commented how much more focused everything sounded. He loved it.

An extra comment for those Maggie owners out there. He is using a big Vitus amp to drive the 3.7i. (sorry, I don't know the model number of the amp) It does a fantastic job. It doesn't take any back talk from those panels. It tells them where to go and how fast to get there.
 
Since @treitz3 brought up issues with the floor I will offer my thoughts.

The floor is a big problem if you are trying to push your system to top performance. The floor can also make it difficult to keep the speakers at top performance.

If my room was on pier and beam, I would be doing something to stabilize the floor. This could be as simple as pulling up the existing floor, adding more joists, putting down a layer of cement boar, then plywood and then the finished engineered wood flooring. This may sound complicated but even a DIY person could do this. A small construction crew could have it done in a couple days. And it would likely cost less than a lot of audiophiles spend on a power cable.

Solid wood is not a good way to go. It expands and contracts and swells with the changes in humidity with the seasons. Look up how much a 3" wide board expands going from 20% humidity in the winter to 60% humidity in the summer. Unless you want to re-do your speakers twice a year then avoid hardwood flooring.

I hate moving speakers on carpet and I really dislike how it deadens the sound. But at least if your carpet is over a concrete slab we can spike through the carpet and the floor will be stable.

Once you get the speaker set you can glue the spike cups to the floor. That way if your belly grows and bumps into the speaker it won't move. If you want to remove them then simply remove the glue. This may take some work but can be done.
Further to floors.

Mine are on concrete which is nice as far as stability. I would note however that a concrete slab is unlikely to be level. When setting up to the nth degree it becomes a factor like on every floor.

I would also note that concrete transmits vibrations too. So despite its rigidity footers are obviously a factor. For many years I spiked directly or use spike cups where necessary. Recently I have been experimenting with " isolating " type feet. No doubt there is some debate on which is best. As I am really liking the sound I am getting out of my speakers now I am not in a hurry to change things. It probably is system dependent like many things.
 
That's one of the beautiful things about getting the speaker positions optimized. Whenever I readjust the speakers to their respective optimized position, the "sweet spot" seems to not be as important. I could only theorize as to why, and I will try my best below, but you can (well, I can) hear the change, even as I walk around the room or walk into the room. Part of that theory is that while my example initially only spoke of one rod, laser and mirror per speaker/ear (along with the additional drivers within said speaker), that is only one of many sounds that the ears hear. The direct sound, which is the single most important time/energy sound you want to hear.

Unless you have an anechoic room, you also have radiated/reflected energy that arrives at differing times. These come from walls, ceilings, floors and furniture/other items in the room (such as the gear, stands, etc.). If you look at the drawing below, it will give you some examples of some of those reflected sounds.

View attachment 140947
(Credit for the above screenshot taken from this Harbeth video - which can be seen below >>>


As aforementioned, my initial post was referring to only the direct sound being optimized. With all of the secondary reflections and their own energy/time arrivals, all of these are affected as well when you optimize the speaker setup. So, it's not just one sound you are optimizing, it is all of these sounds that affect the performance of the speaker/room interaction. Hypothetically speaking, if there were a rod, mirror and laser for each reflected sound, a minimal movement/adjustment would have quite the effect on all of those lasers and where they end up.

At least that's my theory, anyway...

When I spoke about the laser and that 1/2" rod and mirror, I was speaking as if the speaker location (not just the x and y axis) had already been optimized to the room and toed in correctly to achieve that perfect balance.

The tools I use that help me to achieve my own optimization are the following;

DigiPas DWL-1300XY 2 axis precision digital level
Takamine GM160 Pro self leveling 16 line laser
Bosch Professional GLM20 digital tape measure
Stanley Powerlock tape measure
Johnson 40-6184 laser level


Admittedly, I have a mixture of ways I do my initial setup. Whether it be taken from folks I have spoken with over the decades on how they do it, to ideas from the Sumiko setup, Harbeth, Genesis (WBF member Gary Koh who talks about 1/16" in this very video - https://youtu.be/ygCpGbcI8CM ), Martin Logan, Wilson and yes, even the book from WBF member Jim Smith - Which I highly recommend if you want to learn quite a bit more about initial placement than I am willing to type out. His book has already been mentioned in this thread and it is a gold mine for those who may be reading this thread and are interested in optimizing their own setup.

Years or maybe even decades ago, I was able to cobble together some notes that I ran across that condensed a lot of information into a somewhat short write up of some of the most important things when doing the initial setup. Maybe this will help some of you who may be reading this thread and wish to improve your own speaker setup. I know full well, I am preaching to the choir with many of you, so please forgive me going over some things that you already know about.



One of these days, I might go through and explain again how I set up my own speakers, NOT using the rooms walls as measuring points.

Tom
Thank you. Great information.
 
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I am not trying to say that the speaker needs to be at any particular number. Whatever number of rake an azimuth the speaker ends up with is done by ear. But for example, if you are trying to match the right and left speaker and get them both level to 0.000 degrees the app is the way to go. Without the app, depending on the flexure of the floor where your speaker is sitting and where you are standing to read the level it can make a big difference. You might think you have them both dead level but in reality, when you step away, they are not.
I’m sure leveling the speakers improved the sound, but the first thing you should have done was to remove the carpet under the speakers. That’s more important and provides a greater improvement. Having speakers sit on carpet is unacceptable. This isn’t a matter of preference or personal choice—it’s fundamentally wrong. It’s like driving your car in reverse and saying, “I like it this way.”

Regarding the floor, the ideal and best-sounding solution is a rigid, stable concrete foundation overlaid with fixed, non-resilient wood.
 
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I’m sure leveling the speakers improved the sound, but the first thing you should have done was to remove the carpet under the speakers. That’s more important and provides a greater improvement. Having speakers sit on carpet is unacceptable. This isn’t a matter of preference or personal choice—it’s fundamentally wrong. It’s like driving your car in reverse and saying, “I like it this way.”

Regarding the floor, the ideal and best-sounding solution is a rigid, stable concrete foundation overlaid with fixed, non-resilient wood.
I agree that carpet is not the best solution. (See my earlier post on flooring). But this was not my house and I don't make a habit of going into someone elses house and start tearing out carpet.

He has ordered a pair of the "Mye Sound" stands for his speakers. These will allow him to spike the speakers throught the carpet into the concrete foundation. They will also add a lot of rigiity to the panel frame. But they are still several weeks away. In the mean time he has better sound with the shims.
 
As I think optimization of the speaker positioning is a very interesting subject, I will transfer the follow up of a subject that started in a thread about the dCS Varese to this more appropriate thread.

We were addressing DPoLS - Dead Points of Live Sound theory, as first presented by Romy the Cat in his blog http://www.goodsoundclub.com/Forums/ShowPost.aspx?PageIndex=1&postID=994#994

As stated in the article, DPoLS is just a free interpretation of the original work of a A. Polakov theory of the Points of Live Sound theory. I find much more interesting reading the original article in full than the interpretation - it is much more complete. We can find it, translated by Google,
https://www-audioworld-ru.translate...l=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

I post it as I think the original concept is being manipulated and is being abusively used in audio debates. Please note it is a google translation, not verified by a knowledgeable human.

" About live sound points

It is well known that the overall quality of a sound reproduction system is determined by the quality of each of its components. There are several perspectives on which component has the greatest influence on the overall sound quality. The most common view is that the amplifier-speaker tandem is the most critical. However, there is another perspective: many have found that once a certain quality level is reached, the primary limiting factor for further improvement is the listening room itself. There are various recommendations for optimizing room acoustics, including different treatment methods and specialized materials. Sometimes, the cost of acoustic treatment is comparable to that of the audio system itself.


Publications [L] suggest that among all the factors influencing room-system synergy, the most crucial is the correct placement of the speakers (АС). Everyone understands that speaker placement and listener position affect the sound, but few realize how significant this effect can be. The source emphasizes that any attempt to improve the system’s quality is meaningless until the optimal placement of the speakers is found. This applies not only to changing cables, stands, and cones but also to component upgrades and even room treatment efforts.


The criterion for determining the optimal speaker placement is the subjective perception of the soundstage, surrounding spatial cues, and sound image localization. There are no formulas to calculate exact speaker positions for a specific room. Positions suggested by manufacturers or derived from standing wave minimization calculations serve only as starting points for further adjustments. Ultimately, optimal placement is found "by ear" through iterative experimentation. The result is that speakers end up at specific distances from the nearest walls and angled precisely, with the listener’s position determined simultaneously.


Rather than an "optimal placement point," it is more accurate to speak of an "optimal zone," where even slight deviations result in noticeable degradation of spatial and localization characteristics. This zone is typically within 1-2 cm in position and 2-3° in angle. Many users manage to determine this optimal placement for their speakers over time, while others have yet to do so, failing to unlock their system’s full potential. However, almost no one knows that within this optimal zone, there exists a "point of live sound." When speakers are precisely positioned at this point, all subjective sound characteristics suddenly elevate to a much higher level.


To be more precise, within the optimal zone exists a much smaller zone—approximately 0.1 mm in size—making it more accurate to refer to it as a "point" rather than a zone. This phenomenon was initially discovered accidentally in one system, then confirmed in several others, suggesting its general nature. In all cases, the improvement in sound quality occurred in an abrupt leap and disappeared just as suddenly when the speakers were moved out of these points. This crucial fact explains why these points can only be found through intentional search; their accidental discovery is highly unlikely. No prior publications have been found on this topic. Below is a summary of some effects observed when speakers are placed at "live sound points."


Observed Effects:


  1. All subjective sound characteristics improve sharply: soundstage, spatial perception, localization, and dynamic range (except tonal balance).
  2. The most noticeable improvements occur in qualities related to the emotional content of recordings: performance energy, musical coherence, tonal and timbral relationships. Beyond a certain system quality level, one can speak of "restoring the energy of live performance."
  3. The transition from ordinary to live sound is abrupt, particularly in systems with a full and even bass register. In less balanced systems, the transition is less dramatic, and overall sound quality is lower.
  4. A live sound point exists even for a single speaker in mono playback. In a stereo system, it is a pair of points.
  5. Small speaker displacements within this point produce audible changes in sound. Even touching a 60 kg speaker with a 4A-32 driver could cause detectable changes.
  6. Two types of sound changes occur when speakers move within the live sound point: those from shifting speakers forward/backward and those from rotation adjustments. These changes are orders of magnitude more pronounced than usual speaker movements within the room.
  7. In stereo systems, shifting one speaker within the live sound point affects the entire soundstage. For example, moving the left speaker forward alters the sound in a way that can be counteracted by moving the right speaker backward.
  8. To achieve the best playback quality for a specific recording, fine adjustments within the live sound point are necessary. However, these adjustments may degrade the sound of other recordings, requiring repositioning for each one.
  9. When speakers are at live sound points, the listening sweet spot expands significantly—almost the entire room. Even obstructing one speaker has minimal effect.
  10. Subtle audio anomalies become much more apparent. Examples include audible differences when reversing cable direction (including power cables), power phase changes, and component coupling to spikes. Changes in amplifier chassis resonance, such as the tightness of transformer mounting screws, affect perceived soundstage depth and image size.
  11. A fundamental qualitative difference between live sound setups and ordinary systems is that no mental effort is required to "fill in" missing musical information. In standard systems, listeners unconsciously reconstruct missing musical nuances, limiting them to music they can mentally process. With live sound, the listening experience becomes effortless, allowing access to a much wider range of musical material.

Key Conclusions:


  1. "Anomalous" phenomena remain so only until they find explanation within accepted theories. Studying live sound points can lead to a new understanding of auditory perception limits.
  2. Achieving "live" sound reproduction via electroacoustic systems is possible.
  3. The primary obstacle to improving audio quality is failing to place speakers at their live sound points. Further component upgrades will not yield real improvements without addressing this phenomenon.



The article challenges traditional approaches to audio system setup, suggesting that micro-adjustments in speaker placement—down to fractions of a millimeter—can yield dramatic improvements. This concept aligns with extreme audiophile practices but remains largely unexplored in mainstream acoustics research.
 
As I think optimization of the speaker positioning is a very interesting subject, I will transfer the follow up of a subject that started in a thread about the dCS Varese to this more appropriate thread.

We were addressing DPoLS - Dead Points of Live Sound theory, as first presented by Romy the Cat in his blog http://www.goodsoundclub.com/Forums/ShowPost.aspx?PageIndex=1&postID=994#994

As stated in the article, DPoLS is just a free interpretation of the original work of a A. Polakov theory of the Points of Live Sound theory. I find much more interesting reading the original article in full than the interpretation - it is much more complete. We can find it, translated by Google,
https://www-audioworld-ru.translate...l=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

I post it as I think the original concept is being manipulated and is being abusively used in audio debates. Please note it is a google translation, not verified by a knowledgeable human.

" About live sound points

It is well known that the overall quality of a sound reproduction system is determined by the quality of each of its components. There are several perspectives on which component has the greatest influence on the overall sound quality. The most common view is that the amplifier-speaker tandem is the most critical. However, there is another perspective: many have found that once a certain quality level is reached, the primary limiting factor for further improvement is the listening room itself. There are various recommendations for optimizing room acoustics, including different treatment methods and specialized materials. Sometimes, the cost of acoustic treatment is comparable to that of the audio system itself.


Publications [L] suggest that among all the factors influencing room-system synergy, the most crucial is the correct placement of the speakers (АС). Everyone understands that speaker placement and listener position affect the sound, but few realize how significant this effect can be. The source emphasizes that any attempt to improve the system’s quality is meaningless until the optimal placement of the speakers is found. This applies not only to changing cables, stands, and cones but also to component upgrades and even room treatment efforts.


The criterion for determining the optimal speaker placement is the subjective perception of the soundstage, surrounding spatial cues, and sound image localization. There are no formulas to calculate exact speaker positions for a specific room. Positions suggested by manufacturers or derived from standing wave minimization calculations serve only as starting points for further adjustments. Ultimately, optimal placement is found "by ear" through iterative experimentation. The result is that speakers end up at specific distances from the nearest walls and angled precisely, with the listener’s position determined simultaneously.


Rather than an "optimal placement point," it is more accurate to speak of an "optimal zone," where even slight deviations result in noticeable degradation of spatial and localization characteristics. This zone is typically within 1-2 cm in position and 2-3° in angle. Many users manage to determine this optimal placement for their speakers over time, while others have yet to do so, failing to unlock their system’s full potential. However, almost no one knows that within this optimal zone, there exists a "point of live sound." When speakers are precisely positioned at this point, all subjective sound characteristics suddenly elevate to a much higher level.


To be more precise, within the optimal zone exists a much smaller zone—approximately 0.1 mm in size—making it more accurate to refer to it as a "point" rather than a zone. This phenomenon was initially discovered accidentally in one system, then confirmed in several others, suggesting its general nature. In all cases, the improvement in sound quality occurred in an abrupt leap and disappeared just as suddenly when the speakers were moved out of these points. This crucial fact explains why these points can only be found through intentional search; their accidental discovery is highly unlikely. No prior publications have been found on this topic. Below is a summary of some effects observed when speakers are placed at "live sound points."



Observed Effects:


  1. All subjective sound characteristics improve sharply: soundstage, spatial perception, localization, and dynamic range (except tonal balance).
  2. The most noticeable improvements occur in qualities related to the emotional content of recordings: performance energy, musical coherence, tonal and timbral relationships. Beyond a certain system quality level, one can speak of "restoring the energy of live performance."
  3. The transition from ordinary to live sound is abrupt, particularly in systems with a full and even bass register. In less balanced systems, the transition is less dramatic, and overall sound quality is lower.
  4. A live sound point exists even for a single speaker in mono playback. In a stereo system, it is a pair of points.
  5. Small speaker displacements within this point produce audible changes in sound. Even touching a 60 kg speaker with a 4A-32 driver could cause detectable changes.
  6. Two types of sound changes occur when speakers move within the live sound point: those from shifting speakers forward/backward and those from rotation adjustments. These changes are orders of magnitude more pronounced than usual speaker movements within the room.
  7. In stereo systems, shifting one speaker within the live sound point affects the entire soundstage. For example, moving the left speaker forward alters the sound in a way that can be counteracted by moving the right speaker backward.
  8. To achieve the best playback quality for a specific recording, fine adjustments within the live sound point are necessary. However, these adjustments may degrade the sound of other recordings, requiring repositioning for each one.
  9. When speakers are at live sound points, the listening sweet spot expands significantly—almost the entire room. Even obstructing one speaker has minimal effect.
  10. Subtle audio anomalies become much more apparent. Examples include audible differences when reversing cable direction (including power cables), power phase changes, and component coupling to spikes. Changes in amplifier chassis resonance, such as the tightness of transformer mounting screws, affect perceived soundstage depth and image size.
  11. A fundamental qualitative difference between live sound setups and ordinary systems is that no mental effort is required to "fill in" missing musical information. In standard systems, listeners unconsciously reconstruct missing musical nuances, limiting them to music they can mentally process. With live sound, the listening experience becomes effortless, allowing access to a much wider range of musical material.

Key Conclusions:


  1. "Anomalous" phenomena remain so only until they find explanation within accepted theories. Studying live sound points can lead to a new understanding of auditory perception limits.
  2. Achieving "live" sound reproduction via electroacoustic systems is possible.
  3. The primary obstacle to improving audio quality is failing to place speakers at their live sound points. Further component upgrades will not yield real improvements without addressing this phenomenon.



The article challenges traditional approaches to audio system setup, suggesting that micro-adjustments in speaker placement—down to fractions of a millimeter—can yield dramatic improvements. This concept aligns with extreme audiophile practices but remains largely unexplored in mainstream acoustics research.
Hello microstrip,

Thanks for posting this. I had never even heard of this "cat" until a few months ago when someone metioned his DPoLs idea in another thread. I guess the internet is a big place.

Could you expand on this comment -- "I post it as I think the original concept is being manipulated and is being abusively used in audio debates." I don't understand abusively used idea. Maybe you can point me to a few posts so I can see what you mean.

You posted -- "his concept aligns with extreme audiophile practices but remains largely unexplored in mainstream acoustics research."

I agree with this. I have read many, many papers and texts on audiology and spatial hearing. Much of what the researchers report I observe in speaker setup. However, they are off by at least an order of magnitude in hearing perception. I reached out ot one audiologist to see if he was willing to engage in a conversation or allow me to demonstrate this for him. No resonse -- sigh. I may try a few others to see if anyone is interested.
 
The immediate thing we notice is that the original article addresses "zones" and "points" as separate entities. The "miraculous" concept of live point is only attributed to a minimal point of .1 mm dimension. See original :

"To be more precise, within the optimal zone exists a much smaller zone—approximately 0.1 mm in size—making it more accurate to refer to it as a "point" rather than a zone. (...)
(...) Below is a summary of some effects observed when speakers are placed at "live sound points."

What I noticed is that people on the blog attribute the "miraculous" characteristics to zones, not to points. It makes a difference, IMO.

The new version: " To describe what the “dead points of live sound” I would say that inside of the “optimum zone” there is one smaller zone. The dimensions of this smaller zone are within the scale of 1/16” –1/32” and therefore this zone might be called - a single point in space, or the “dead point of live sound” (or the DPoLS further on)"

BTW, I refer to "miraculous" influenced by debates in russian audio blogs about the subject - they have a good sense of humor on the subject!

I hope that some one with direct knowledge of russian language and optimization experience can help in these matters - we can't exclude we are victims of auto translation.
 
The most accurate and consistently reliable distance measuring tools are those which use lasers. The specifications for these are at best 1/32 of an inch. Since there are 25.4 millimeters to an inch, this is more or less plus or minus 1/2 millimeter. It is thus impossible for people, using the best commonly available tools, to measure distances reliably with 0.1 millimeter accuracy.

Leveling devices are even worse, in my experience, in terms of accuracy when dealing with measurements inside rooms. The best manually read bubble levels cannot reliably level objects so that the measured distance from the leveled object to a reference position is more accurate than a millimeter or so within a listening room. The level in an iPhone is worse yet since the iPhone level reads out in 0.5 degree increments; it's accuracy is at best plus or minus 0.25 degrees.

Rotational/toe-in angle can best be measured by judging the apparent reflection of a small mirror taped to the speaker baffle when looked at with one eye from the listening position. Such judgments are limited in accuracy by parallax effects between the position of one's ear canal and one's eye pupil. Certainly very small toe-in angle differences cannot be reliably set.

As a practical matter, the angles between listening room walls and floor are not exactly "square," having been set by commercial construction bubble levels. Floors aren't exactly flat for the same reason. One's two ears are not exactly symmetrically placed on one's head. Accuracy to a 0.1 mm tolerance thus cannot be achieved in any practical way.

The only way to "bump" a speaker into a different position is to have the speaker not firmly anchored to a spot with spikes, and thus able to slide bit by bit across the rug or floor. Most audiophiles seeking exact positioning will want to use spikes. (Not me, because spikes cause terrible ringing of perceived response in the high frequencies.) But once spikes are attached, there is no practical physical way to move a heavy speaker a tiny repeatable distance on the floor. If the spikes can be temporarily "disengaged" by moving them up or down, then moving them down again to re-anchor the speaker to the floor will certainly change the distance of the speaker from a given reference point by much more than 0.1 mm.

Because of the asymmetry of ears on the head, it is impossible to use ear canals as a reference point for measuring speaker distance, even if one could hold one's head precisely motionless during the measurement process. The best that can be done is to establish a reference measuring point roughly equidistant between your two ears and measure from both speakers to that reference point. But establishing that reference point to an accuracy of 0.1 mm is impractical.

And then there is the statement that the live sound point will be different for different recordings. So is one supposed to move the speakers by miniscule amounts from recording to recording? The mind boggles.
 
The most accurate and consistently reliable distance measuring tools are those which use lasers. The specifications for these are at best 1/32 of an inch. Since there are 25.4 millimeters to an inch, this is more or less plus or minus 1/2 millimeter. It is thus impossible for people, using the best commonly available tools, to measure distances reliably with 0.1 millimeter accuracy.

Leveling devices are even worse, in my experience, in terms of accuracy when dealing with measurements inside rooms. The best manually read bubble levels cannot reliably level objects so that the measured distance from the leveled object to a reference position is more accurate than a millimeter or so within a listening room. The level in an iPhone is worse yet since the iPhone level reads out in 0.5 degree increments; it's accuracy is at best plus or minus 0.25 degrees.

Rotational/toe-in angle can best be measured by judging the apparent reflection of a small mirror taped to the speaker baffle when looked at with one eye from the listening position. Such judgments are limited in accuracy by parallax effects between the position of one's ear canal and one's eye pupil. Certainly very small toe-in angle differences cannot be reliably set.

As a practical matter, the angles between listening room walls and floor are not exactly "square," having been set by commercial construction bubble levels. Floors aren't exactly flat for the same reason. One's two ears are not exactly symmetrically placed on one's head. Accuracy to a 0.1 mm tolerance thus cannot be achieved in any practical way.

The only way to "bump" a speaker into a different position is to have the speaker not firmly anchored to a spot with spikes, and thus able to slide bit by bit across the rug or floor. Most audiophiles seeking exact positioning will want to use spikes. (Not me, because spikes cause terrible ringing of perceived response in the high frequencies.) But once spikes are attached, there is no practical physical way to move a heavy speaker a tiny repeatable distance on the floor. If the spikes can be temporarily "disengaged" by moving them up or down, then moving them down again to re-anchor the speaker to the floor will certainly change the distance of the speaker from a given reference point by much more than 0.1 mm.

Because of the asymmetry of ears on the head, it is impossible to use ear canals as a reference point for measuring speaker distance, even if one could hold one's head precisely motionless during the measurement process. The best that can be done is to establish a reference measuring point roughly equidistant between your two ears and measure from both speakers to that reference point. But establishing that reference point to an accuracy of 0.1 mm is impractical.

And then there is the statement that the live sound point will be different for different recordings. So is one supposed to move the speakers by miniscule amounts from recording to recording? The mind boggles.
While I do believe it is important to place one's speakers in the best possible position in one's room I have to agree with your assessment. Speaker placement is not for the faint of heart at the best of times, trying to achieve absolute accuracy, the mind boggles indeed!
 
Measuring out the matching speaker's position wihtin a room is daunting and fraught with potential error. Once some thought is given to the idea we quickly realize there are problems at every turn. Reference sticks and lasers are much better than tape measures. But even laser lines have a width and from what reference point are we using to guide the laser? Gauging the inclination of a speaker is the most accurate thing. I have a level that is accurate to the arcsecond. (yes, this is audible)

But in the end it is all done by ear. This is what is meant by the statement of 0.1mm. The speaker is bumped or tapped and the distance the speaker moves is in this range. Each move is audible.

As far as spikes -- yes, the speaker moves even if it is on spikes. I know it moves because I can hear the change in sound.

I realize most audiophiles are in the "show me" camp and simply don't believe this. I assure you it is reproducible and demonstrable. It has been demonstrated to many people who stand there with their mouths open in stunned disbelief.

My world view is to explore possibilities. I know I don't know everything and many people know things that I don't know. When lots of people are saying something counter to my experience about a subject I am interested in, I tend to seek out that knowledge.
 
Measuring out the matching speaker's position wihtin a room is daunting and fraught with potential error. Once some thought is given to the idea we quickly realize there are problems at every turn. Reference sticks and lasers are much better than tape measures. But even laser lines have a width and from what reference point are we using to guide the laser? Gauging the inclination of a speaker is the most accurate thing. I have a level that is accurate to the arcsecond. (yes, this is audible)

But in the end it is all done by ear. This is what is meant by the statement of 0.1mm. The speaker is bumped or tapped and the distance the speaker moves is in this range. Each move is audible.

As far as spikes -- yes, the speaker moves even if it is on spikes. I know it moves because I can hear the change in sound.

I realize most audiophiles are in the "show me" camp and simply don't believe this. I assure you it is reproducible and demonstrable. It has been demonstrated to many people who stand there with their mouths open in stunned disbelief.

My world view is to explore possibilities. I know I don't know everything and many people know things that I don't know. When lots of people are saying something counter to my experience about a subject I am interested in, I tend to seek out that knowledge.

I believe you. I have vintage corner horns that were originally made as mono speakers. It took my dealer twenty years to track down the second one as a match to the first. They have wood cabinets and a laser on the top is just not accurate enough to line up the drivers. And there is some play in each corner of my room, and the room is 225 years old, so not symmetrical. Lots of issues with placement, even in the corners. I have noticed that just changing the tilt and the rotation slightly affects the sound. The closer they are to being absolutely symmetrically oriented to the listening seat, the better they sound. It is not an easy task, and I have been fiddling with it for a while making incremental improvements.

I know I am close when focus and clarity improve. Presence too and solid images remain more stable as one moves around the room. It was much easier to set up my former Magico speakers in terms of identical orientation with their modern construction, flat sides, and adjustable footers.
 
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The most accurate and consistently reliable distance measuring tools are those which use lasers. The specifications for these are at best 1/32 of an inch. Since there are 25.4 millimeters to an inch, this is more or less plus or minus 1/2 millimeter. It is thus impossible for people, using the best commonly available tools, to measure distances reliably with 0.1 millimeter accuracy.

Leveling devices are even worse, in my experience, in terms of accuracy when dealing with measurements inside rooms. The best manually read bubble levels cannot reliably level objects so that the measured distance from the leveled object to a reference position is more accurate than a millimeter or so within a listening room. The level in an iPhone is worse yet since the iPhone level reads out in 0.5 degree increments; it's accuracy is at best plus or minus 0.25 degrees.

Rotational/toe-in angle can best be measured by judging the apparent reflection of a small mirror taped to the speaker baffle when looked at with one eye from the listening position. Such judgments are limited in accuracy by parallax effects between the position of one's ear canal and one's eye pupil. Certainly very small toe-in angle differences cannot be reliably set.

As a practical matter, the angles between listening room walls and floor are not exactly "square," having been set by commercial construction bubble levels. Floors aren't exactly flat for the same reason. One's two ears are not exactly symmetrically placed on one's head. Accuracy to a 0.1 mm tolerance thus cannot be achieved in any practical way.

The only way to "bump" a speaker into a different position is to have the speaker not firmly anchored to a spot with spikes, and thus able to slide bit by bit across the rug or floor. Most audiophiles seeking exact positioning will want to use spikes. (Not me, because spikes cause terrible ringing of perceived response in the high frequencies.) But once spikes are attached, there is no practical physical way to move a heavy speaker a tiny repeatable distance on the floor. If the spikes can be temporarily "disengaged" by moving them up or down, then moving them down again to re-anchor the speaker to the floor will certainly change the distance of the speaker from a given reference point by much more than 0.1 mm.

Because of the asymmetry of ears on the head, it is impossible to use ear canals as a reference point for measuring speaker distance, even if one could hold one's head precisely motionless during the measurement process. The best that can be done is to establish a reference measuring point roughly equidistant between your two ears and measure from both speakers to that reference point. But establishing that reference point to an accuracy of 0.1 mm is impractical.

And then there is the statement that the live sound point will be different for different recordings. So is one supposed to move the speakers by miniscule amounts from recording to recording? The mind boggles.

Tom, a lot of this makes sense but I am definitely confused on your claim loudspeaker spikes harming HF playback. I have an open mind however…do you have evidence to back this claim?
 
The most accurate and consistently reliable distance measuring tools are those which use lasers. The specifications for these are at best 1/32 of an inch. Since there are 25.4 millimeters to an inch, this is more or less plus or minus 1/2 millimeter. It is thus impossible for people, using the best commonly available tools, to measure distances reliably with 0.1 millimeter accuracy.

Leveling devices are even worse, in my experience, in terms of accuracy when dealing with measurements inside rooms. The best manually read bubble levels cannot reliably level objects so that the measured distance from the leveled object to a reference position is more accurate than a millimeter or so within a listening room. The level in an iPhone is worse yet since the iPhone level reads out in 0.5 degree increments; it's accuracy is at best plus or minus 0.25 degrees.

Rotational/toe-in angle can best be measured by judging the apparent reflection of a small mirror taped to the speaker baffle when looked at with one eye from the listening position. Such judgments are limited in accuracy by parallax effects between the position of one's ear canal and one's eye pupil. Certainly very small toe-in angle differences cannot be reliably set.

As a practical matter, the angles between listening room walls and floor are not exactly "square," having been set by commercial construction bubble levels. Floors aren't exactly flat for the same reason. One's two ears are not exactly symmetrically placed on one's head. Accuracy to a 0.1 mm tolerance thus cannot be achieved in any practical way.

The only way to "bump" a speaker into a different position is to have the speaker not firmly anchored to a spot with spikes, and thus able to slide bit by bit across the rug or floor. Most audiophiles seeking exact positioning will want to use spikes. (Not me, because spikes cause terrible ringing of perceived response in the high frequencies.) But once spikes are attached, there is no practical physical way to move a heavy speaker a tiny repeatable distance on the floor. If the spikes can be temporarily "disengaged" by moving them up or down, then moving them down again to re-anchor the speaker to the floor will certainly change the distance of the speaker from a given reference point by much more than 0.1 mm.

Because of the asymmetry of ears on the head, it is impossible to use ear canals as a reference point for measuring speaker distance, even if one could hold one's head precisely motionless during the measurement process. The best that can be done is to establish a reference measuring point roughly equidistant between your two ears and measure from both speakers to that reference point. But establishing that reference point to an accuracy of 0.1 mm is impractical.

And then there is the statement that the live sound point will be different for different recordings. So is one supposed to move the speakers by miniscule amounts from recording to recording? The mind boggles.
I agree that spikes make tweaking positions very difficult, I would add though they are a necessary evil when confronted with a floor that has a sympathetic resonance. IsoAcoustic Gaia’s and their spikes helped remove upper bass bloat. So much that I can live with the difficulty in finding the last millimeter.
 
Measuring out the matching speaker's position wihtin a room is daunting and fraught with potential error. Once some thought is given to the idea we quickly realize there are problems at every turn. Reference sticks and lasers are much better than tape measures. But even laser lines have a width and from what reference point are we using to guide the laser? Gauging the inclination of a speaker is the most accurate thing. I have a level that is accurate to the arcsecond. (yes, this is audible)

But in the end it is all done by ear. This is what is meant by the statement of 0.1mm. The speaker is bumped or tapped and the distance the speaker moves is in this range. Each move is audible.

As far as spikes -- yes, the speaker moves even if it is on spikes. I know it moves because I can hear the change in sound.

I realize most audiophiles are in the "show me" camp and simply don't believe this. I assure you it is reproducible and demonstrable. It has been demonstrated to many people who stand there with their mouths open in stunned disbelief.

My world view is to explore possibilities. I know I don't know everything and many people know things that I don't know. When lots of people are saying something counter to my experience about a subject I am interested in, I tend to seek out that knowledge.
Yes in the end it is done by ear, so yes I believe you.

My wonder is how repeatable or easily repeatable. Somehow a measurement even when almost impossible to duplicate has a connotation of something I know I can back to. It sounds like you can demonstrate your procedure to friends so it must possible.

I tend to start by establishing a measured position I have reason to believe should work. If it is a new speakers I usually put down some tape and establish a grid. From there I shift, bump, tap and listen until it sounds right. Then I remeasure to establish a reference point. Often I fuss with this position and even after measuring I find it difficult to get back to that position that sounded so right. So I don't necessarily dispute the infinitesimal accuracy necessary I just find it mind boggling and as you say daunting!
 
Measuring out the matching speaker's position wihtin a room is daunting and fraught with potential error. Once some thought is given to the idea we quickly realize there are problems at every turn. Reference sticks and lasers are much better than tape measures. But even laser lines have a width and from what reference point are we using to guide the laser?

Yes, we can hope to measure distances with accuracy up to 1mm at best using good laser systems when positioning speakers.

Gauging the inclination of a speaker is the most accurate thing. I have a level that is accurate to the arcsecond. (yes, this is audible)

Are you sure? One arc second is a deviation of 5 micron at a distance of 1meter. Are you saying it is audible and affects sound quality?

But in the end it is all done by ear. This is what is meant by the statement of 0.1mm. The speaker is bumped or tapped and the distance the speaker moves is in this range. Each move is audible.

How we get absolute localization by ear? We count taps?

As far as spikes -- yes, the speaker moves even if it is on spikes. I know it moves because I can hear the change in sound.

I realize most audiophiles are in the "show me" camp and simply don't believe this. I assure you it is reproducible and demonstrable. It has been demonstrated to many people who stand there with their mouths open in stunned disbelief.

My world view is to explore possibilities. I know I don't know everything and many people know things that I don't know. When lots of people are saying something counter to my experience about a subject I am interested in, I tend to seek out that knowledge.

Ok, let us admit we accept it. How can it used to make systematic meaningful adjustments? We need two hundred 5 micron displacements to displace 1mm.

As pointed bellow , adjustments must be repeatable and easy to check. We can't rely on audible memory to last forever.
 
The most accurate and consistently reliable distance measuring tools are those which use lasers. The specifications for these are at best 1/32 of an inch. Since there are 25.4 millimeters to an inch, this is more or less plus or minus 1/2 millimeter. It is thus impossible for people, using the best commonly available tools, to measure distances reliably with 0.1 millimeter accuracy.

Leveling devices are even worse, in my experience, in terms of accuracy when dealing with measurements inside rooms. The best manually read bubble levels cannot reliably level objects so that the measured distance from the leveled object to a reference position is more accurate than a millimeter or so within a listening room. The level in an iPhone is worse yet since the iPhone level reads out in 0.5 degree increments; it's accuracy is at best plus or minus 0.25 degrees.

Rotational/toe-in angle can best be measured by judging the apparent reflection of a small mirror taped to the speaker baffle when looked at with one eye from the listening position. Such judgments are limited in accuracy by parallax effects between the position of one's ear canal and one's eye pupil. Certainly very small toe-in angle differences cannot be reliably set.

As a practical matter, the angles between listening room walls and floor are not exactly "square," having been set by commercial construction bubble levels. Floors aren't exactly flat for the same reason. One's two ears are not exactly symmetrically placed on one's head. Accuracy to a 0.1 mm tolerance thus cannot be achieved in any practical way.

The only way to "bump" a speaker into a different position is to have the speaker not firmly anchored to a spot with spikes, and thus able to slide bit by bit across the rug or floor. Most audiophiles seeking exact positioning will want to use spikes. (Not me, because spikes cause terrible ringing of perceived response in the high frequencies.) But once spikes are attached, there is no practical physical way to move a heavy speaker a tiny repeatable distance on the floor. If the spikes can be temporarily "disengaged" by moving them up or down, then moving them down again to re-anchor the speaker to the floor will certainly change the distance of the speaker from a given reference point by much more than 0.1 mm.

Because of the asymmetry of ears on the head, it is impossible to use ear canals as a reference point for measuring speaker distance, even if one could hold one's head precisely motionless during the measurement process. The best that can be done is to establish a reference measuring point roughly equidistant between your two ears and measure from both speakers to that reference point. But establishing that reference point to an accuracy of 0.1 mm is impractical.

And then there is the statement that the live sound point will be different for different recordings. So is one supposed to move the speakers by miniscule amounts from recording to recording? The mind boggles.

I think DPOLS is not related to listener position and asymmetry of ears has no affect on sound. When speakers are in DPOLS the sound is good in all area of room not only in listener position.

DPOLS is also not related to records.
 

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