Thanks for your comments. To be sure I understand, are you retiring your SPI Westek or retiring your DS Ionizer in favor of the SPI Westek?
DS Audio Ionizer
- Thread starter Kcin
- Start date
I wish it was me who was retiring, lol. No, my Westek has come out, not replacing it with anything. I could never contemplate the prices of the DS or CS P.
This is exactly what I found with my version in my system. I find it interesting that others have found this as well. I use mine initially to blast the platter and surfaces - then - turn it off.
At a friend's place he leaves it on and I don't particularly hear any degradation there. Perhaps, I am not so keenly tuned in there as I am with my own system.
At a friend's place he leaves it on and I don't particularly hear any degradation there. Perhaps, I am not so keenly tuned in there as I am with my own system.
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Interesting posts ! I was contemplating last year in buying the CSPort IME1 from a UK CSPort Dealer. I had even asked the UK Dealer to order me one and when it had arrived to contact me. Never heard from them.
In the meantime I had experimented heavily with using the Zerostat Milty 3 Anti-Static Gun (which I already had) and buying a Electrostatic Fieldmeter (a Simco-Ion FMX-003) and taking readings using various de-ionizing techniques with the Milty with very good results (according to the readings I now get from the FMX-003).
So I feel now I don't need a IME1 nor a DS and saved myself £1.5k which will go towards something else for my HiFi System !
In the meantime I had experimented heavily with using the Zerostat Milty 3 Anti-Static Gun (which I already had) and buying a Electrostatic Fieldmeter (a Simco-Ion FMX-003) and taking readings using various de-ionizing techniques with the Milty with very good results (according to the readings I now get from the FMX-003).
So I feel now I don't need a IME1 nor a DS and saved myself £1.5k which will go towards something else for my HiFi System !
If you have this much static, I would suggest a humidifier instead. You will have other benefits, including health benefits, as well!I purchased the DS Audio Ionizer-001 and absolutely love it. I was getting static pops while playing records (even after using the Milty). By the time I had flipped the record and played side 2 my wool mat would be stuck to the record when I removed it. You could hear the static as I would peel it off the album. I bought the Ionizer and all those problems went away. No more static pops when playing a record and the wool mat does not cling to the record at all. It is silent and extremely effective. I assume (have not had it long enough to confirm) that it will also attract less dust to my records since they keep zero static charge while playing and go back in anti-static sleeves when stored. To me it was well worth the money and the Milty is now stored in a drawer gathering dust ironically. Other than the lack of static pops I cannot say there is a definitive improvement in the audio quality produced during playback, but the peace of mind of not having to deal with the static issues and the Milty are well worth the price.
Even a small counter-top unit that is ~$30 will do the job.
Even in winter in Canada I have no static pops or sparks when I touch things... and this is with the ION-001 off.
I am coming to the conclusion that bombarding the TT with ions during playback may reduce or eliminate static, but it negatively affects the sound in other ways.
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Have heard of another report that the ION-001 (and probably any ionizer) will degrade the sound if left on during playback. This comes from @JEB42 on his SAT TT and arm and Atlas Lyra cartridge.
The green light does not affect the sound - if the unit is on during playback, we both reported hearing rolled-off highs, a slight muddiness, in the sound. That may not translate to other systems or some may prefer it; but it’s certainly changing the sound.
If you are curious, flip the ION on and off during playback and listen carefully. It’s also easy to do a blind test by asking a friend to flip it on and off with the green light off.
Going back to basics: a humidifier and humidistat are all that is needed to maintain adequate room humidity. You can buy both for under $100. You set the amount of humidity based on the outside temperature, or until you do not see condensation on the inside of the windows. Using something like an ION because your room is too dry is not the right use of the technology.
If room humidity is correct, there is minimal to no need for a device like the ION. Ionizing just before playback is therefore more than adequate.. Static will not build up during playback if the room humidity is correct.
The green light does not affect the sound - if the unit is on during playback, we both reported hearing rolled-off highs, a slight muddiness, in the sound. That may not translate to other systems or some may prefer it; but it’s certainly changing the sound.
If you are curious, flip the ION on and off during playback and listen carefully. It’s also easy to do a blind test by asking a friend to flip it on and off with the green light off.
Going back to basics: a humidifier and humidistat are all that is needed to maintain adequate room humidity. You can buy both for under $100. You set the amount of humidity based on the outside temperature, or until you do not see condensation on the inside of the windows. Using something like an ION because your room is too dry is not the right use of the technology.
If room humidity is correct, there is minimal to no need for a device like the ION. Ionizing just before playback is therefore more than adequate.. Static will not build up during playback if the room humidity is correct.
Static electricity is more likely to occur in low humidity environments, as moisture in the air can help dissipate static charges. However, completely eliminating static electricity might not be feasible or practical in certain situations.
In some industries where static electricity poses a significant risk (e.g., electronics manufacturing, cleanrooms), maintaining a specific humidity level is a common practice to minimize static charges. Typically, a relative humidity level between 40% and 60% is recommended to control static electricity effectively.
It's important to note that other factors, such as the type of materials present, ventilation, and the overall environment, also play a role in static electricity generation.
Take a look at this chart:
Summer = 35-50%
+ 4.5c = 45%
0c = 40%
-7c = 35%
-12c = 30%
-22C = 22%
A home's humidity level when the outdoor temperature dips below -7C degrees is no more than 35 percent. That level drops by 5 percent with each 5 degrees of drop in temperature.
So if the outside temperature is -7C, you want the indoor humidistat to read 35%. Some humidifiers have this built in, so you would set the desired humidity level and it will maintain it. Some models also have an outdoor sensor, and do it all automatically.
I used a room humidifier last winter and could not get rid of the static charges around my table. I use a lightweight Auditorium 23 mat and it would often lift off the platter with the record threatening to shear off my stylus. The DS ionizer has eliminated all of that and I find it also have a subtle positive effect on the sound. Just another data point.
As you stated, “That may not translate to other systems.” We only hear great music. We have a TechDAS AF 1 ….
It's subtle, but once you hear it, the difference with the ION-001 is noticeable and preferable. I think any very revealing TT with a great phono stage will be able to pick it up. Have you tried listening with it on and off?
I would suggest actually measuring humidity (as I wrote above). There is nothing "magical" about static. If humidity is too low, you have static, if it's not too low, you don't have static. (Not trying to be pedantic, but a humidifier WILL definitely eliminate the static you describe). That said, I still use the ION, but only while brushing/prepping the side for playback.
Yes, we just tried that test again today when I read the surprising comment above.
The change in sound some say they hear, may have to do with the improper placement of the 001. DS Audio has a diagram as to where to place the Ion on a TechDAS - I thought I saw it earlier in this thread. For us it works flawlessly …
Ah! Ok great, good to know. Yes, in my case, it’s quite close to the tonearm cables, which could be the issue…
Not sure where the ION is for @JEB42 and his SAT TT, but I’m sure he’ll comment at some point.
Glad to hear it, enjoy!
Cables? I'm using unbalanced cables, so if you’re using balanced that may be the difference as well …
It’s not about the placement or the green light. DS ION-001 has a negative effect on sound. That is a fact and it’s clear as a day as well as absurdity of constant ion bombardment on cartridge while playing.
It’s strange to see people who are tedious on every detail but easily accept placing a device near turntable which is constantly bombarding the cartridge with ions. It’s probably because of DS ION-001 being presented in a fancy case by a fashionable brand and promoted by critics. IMHO if you’re not a dealer you will hear improvement when you turn it off.
It’s strange to see people who are tedious on every detail but easily accept placing a device near turntable which is constantly bombarding the cartridge with ions. It’s probably because of DS ION-001 being presented in a fancy case by a fashionable brand and promoted by critics. IMHO if you’re not a dealer you will hear improvement when you turn it off.
What TT and pre did you demo one with?
PS: DS Audio gives placement instructions for their device. They even enclose an effective range guide. So, placement does make a difference …
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