First trials of active horn speaker
- Thread starter morricab
- Start date
update. I did some serious messing about with the system last week and found that this horn/driver combo (the small ones) likes more to be a bit higher in frequency where it sounds more at ease. I now have it at 3Khz with 2nd order LR filters. I have also moved the horns further back on top of the cabinet. This might be introducing some diffraction there but it seems to have helped significantly with driver integration. What I am liking about the smaller combo is the greater sense "air" and detail compared to the larger horn/driver. I need to go back and compare but have had only limited time as I spent what I had largely on seeing what i could get out of the small setup.
The Iwata 600s shipped at the end of last week and should be here any day now. Once I have those bad boys installed (with the 1 inch Beyma CP350Ti CD) I will have to start the optimization all over again. That horn though should be good down to 900hz and, at least on paper, the CP350Ti should be able to handle 1Khz with still low distortion at levels far above what I will typically use. Let's see then how it compares with the Xt1464+CP755Ti combo...that will be the serious shootout I think.
The Iwata 600s shipped at the end of last week and should be here any day now. Once I have those bad boys installed (with the 1 inch Beyma CP350Ti CD) I will have to start the optimization all over again. That horn though should be good down to 900hz and, at least on paper, the CP350Ti should be able to handle 1Khz with still low distortion at levels far above what I will typically use. Let's see then how it compares with the Xt1464+CP755Ti combo...that will be the serious shootout I think.
I am measuring and adjusting on the fly with 1/6th octave RTA at the listening position.
Hello, do you measure with pink noise? I think so....
then during the measurement invert the polarity of one driver - for example the horn - and shift the horn. At the crossover frequency you get a break-in... when this is at the lowest point you have the correct alignment of the drivers. Then reverse the polarity to the base point and make the fine adjustment...
Good luck
then during the measurement invert the polarity of one driver - for example the horn - and shift the horn. At the crossover frequency you get a break-in... when this is at the lowest point you have the correct alignment of the drivers. Then reverse the polarity to the base point and make the fine adjustment...
Good luck
Good tip! I will give that a shot for final alignment.Hello, do you measure with pink noise? I think so....
then during the measurement invert the polarity of one driver - for example the horn - and shift the horn. At the crossover frequency you get a break-in... when this is at the lowest point you have the correct alignment of the drivers. Then reverse the polarity to the base point and make the fine adjustment...
Good luck
Update: I have now placed an order for a pair of Radian 475pb with Be diaphragms and 16 ohm impedance. They are used but only lightly and I got them for less than half price! Really curious how Be sounds compared to the Ti diaphragms I am working with now on the Beymas. Iwata 600 should be here this week...
Iwata 600 works down to 900Hz. I think Beyma could go low but Radian not. Probably 1200-1500 is practical.
The other driver/horn combo (18 sound XT1464 + Beyma CP755Ti) works down to 650hz but sounded best at 1khz.
The Supravox is super fast (you hear it has superb dynamics) but quite smooth and not at all peaky sounding like drivers with Whizzers I have heard (Supravox’s whizzer full ranger is also surprisingly smooth but not as fast or revealing).
No problem, I'm glad that I can help you...
The Radian I'd recommend to cross it araound 1.2KHz, and maybe you need a shelf for eq the frequency response.
Good luck
Update:
Now have the Iwata 600s and have the drivers mounted...still not hooked up but soon.
Now have the Iwata 600s and have the drivers mounted...still not hooked up but soon.
Update:
The horns look great (except for a blemish on one that I will need to discuss with autotech) but are still quite a bit smaller than the big 18 sound XT1464s. I should be able to easily cross the Iwatas at 1000hz like I am doing with the big boy. Let’s see how they compare sonically. With the big ones back on the sound is very nice indeed with huge effortless dynamics. As good as the Supravox is in the lower to mid treble , the big horn simply does it with less effort and bigger dynamic contrast. Interesting trials ahead with Mr. Iwata...
The horns look great (except for a blemish on one that I will need to discuss with autotech) but are still quite a bit smaller than the big 18 sound XT1464s. I should be able to easily cross the Iwatas at 1000hz like I am doing with the big boy. Let’s see how they compare sonically. With the big ones back on the sound is very nice indeed with huge effortless dynamics. As good as the Supravox is in the lower to mid treble , the big horn simply does it with less effort and bigger dynamic contrast. Interesting trials ahead with Mr. Iwata...
So let's wait on your results
I'd try a lower XO-frequency than 1K, maybe cross @ 850Hz to 900Hz. If this doesn't match I'd try again @ 1.2KHz.This looks more like a JLMC-version of the Iwata like the original Iwata. As well I think you'll need a tweeter above 7KHz.
Beautiful horn Brad....they should sound wonderful. What is the frequency range that they will operate through?
So, I hooked them up today at 1Khz and they sound really good...no tweeter needed. Plenty of air and extension as well as gorgeous mids. Resolution is similar to the big horns, which was already stunning. What is better , interestingly, is the bass articulation. Not a lot better but noticeable. What is perhaps not as good is the relaxed but dynamic ease the bigger driver provides. I think lower than 1k it will sound strained but a couple hundred hz higher might work even better.So let's wait on your results
This looks more like a JLMC-version of the Iwata like the original Iwata. As well I think you'll need a tweeter above 7KHz.
Thanks Jeffrey, they do sound great! They will cover from around 1khz and up. If I want to go lower I need to use the bigger driver/horn.
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