Gryphon Amplifier Crackle? Help!

Good morning. I will PM you.
 
Well, i have ordered Xhadow XLRs which i have asked an audio tech to use for reterminating my Transp Ref SE cables. i have spoken with Transparent, and they said this should be fine...the network boxes do not require manufacturer retermination. That should get rid of any questions about the IC or the connections being an issue here for the buzzing. i have spoken with a few people and Xhadows are known for a good, tight fit. One step at a time...
 
Not sure how it does answer the XLR-RCA potential Lloyd as you are still converting, the only way to be sure is to keep the component-path completely RCA or XLR tbh, but anyway fingers crossed this helps to resolve the issue :)
Cheers
Orb
 
Not sure how it does answer the XLR-RCA potential Lloyd as you are still converting, the only way to be sure is to keep the component-path completely RCA or XLR tbh, but anyway fingers crossed this helps to resolve the issue :)
Cheers
Orb

Lloyd, as Orb mentioned, you are still converting. Soldering an XLR to a SE interconnect is not going to turn the turn the signal from the CJ into balanced for the Gryphon. Be sure to check with Gryphon whether the input is pin 2 +ve or pin 3 +ve. Then, have the tech short the -ve pin to ground.

A better way to convert the CJ to balanced might be something like this: http://www.rane.com/bb22.html
 
Hi Gary and Orb,

many thanks. i was not really trying to convert SE to Balanced...i was trying to avoid another potential cause of the buzz. I now know that by just barely grazing the edge of the Left Channel Neutrik adaptor, i can make the sound of my left speaker go out...the connection is loose. And i have been told by Gryphon that this adaptor should not be used permanently.

By going straight SE to Balanced connections, i at least eliminate the possibility that the Neutrik adaptor is causing the L speaker to buzz/snap by going in and out (particularly when volumes are high...and the subwoofer may be causing the adaptor to move).

If the buzz is still there, then it is either internal to the Amp (most likely as everyone has said)...or some super-odd interaction between the pre and amp (impedance seems unlikely?...500ohms from CJ into 20kohms into Antileon). thanks as always for continuing to watch this post!
 
OK. Now I get it. Sorry, I've been extremely busy of late, and haven't kept up with all the discussions - still, be sure that when your tech attaches the XLR to your SE cables, that he shorts the right pin because some European gear has pin 3 +ve instead of pin 2 +ve.
 
I am still not sure though Lloyd, there are a fair amount of differences between both cables such as impedance spec of the preamps and power amps,voltage,design use of pin 1-2-3,shielding-chassis ground implementation,etc.
Any mistakes or differences may have some strange affect on either audio product.
Even going straight XLR I experienced the same issue as you did with buzz but for me due to the design of the XLR cable, and yet the issue did not seem to be noticable for those using different amps - now this was an amp manufacturers by one of the most recognised top pro amps for Europe, who also manufacturer consumer equipment based on same design.
All their pro gear works and is intended with XLR, and yet there was this issue caused by the cable, which strangely did not cause as much issue for some other audio companies.
Motto is; it cannot be taken for granted that doing this will exclude the RCA-XLR setup, but fingers crossed that the issue is resolved and it is the Neutrik :)
Relating to what Gary mentions and my mention of all pins and shield-chassis-grounding is this from wiki:
Some audio equipment manufacturers reverse the use of pin 2 (properly the normal input) and pin 3 (inverting input). This reflects their own previous usage before any standard existed. Pin 1 is always ground, and many connectors connect it internally to the connector shell or case.

Although covered in AES48-2005 and in AES54-3-xxxx, there is still some disagreement on the best way to handle the usage of pin 1 at both ends of a cable, particularly with respect to the cable shield, the connector's shell, signal ground, and a third cable conductor connected to pin 1, which may (or may not) be connected to the shield. The main controversy is whether the shell of the connector should be connected to pin 1 or the shield, or left floating.
AES standards mentioned above recommend that shells of cable-mounted connectors should never be connected to pin 1 or the shield, because inadvertent contact of the shell with another grounded surface while in use can create unwanted current paths for fault current, potentially causing hum and other noise. On the other hand, equipment containing active circuitry should always have pin 1 connected to the conductive enclosure of the equipment as close as possible to the point where the signal enters the enclosure.
The argument centers around the radio frequency shielding provided by the shell of the connector, which may be reduced if it is left floating. An alternative solution is to connect the shell to pin 1 and the shield through a small value capacitor, providing RF shielding but allowing very little audio-frequency current to flow. This capability can be built into a fixed jack or a cable terminated with XLR connectors
Cheers

Orb
 
Orb,

thank you...i will try to switch preamps and see what happens. i will also try to switch ic's entirely. as you said, hope this just disappears in the changes...if it does, then probably just make the change permanent and leave well enough alone. thanks again.
 
OK. Now I get it. Sorry, I've been extremely busy of late, and haven't kept up with all the discussions - still, be sure that when your tech attaches the XLR to your SE cables, that he shorts the right pin because some European gear has pin 3 +ve instead of pin 2 +ve.
Thanks for the advice...i will make sure that the Audio Tech knows it is for the Gryphon Antileon...and put the onus on him to ensure it is wired properly. Given my non-existent technical knowledge, i would hate to try to find out, get it wrong, and have him wire it improperly. i will make sure he knows the amp...and also ask him which configuration...so i know if i ever change amps. thanks again.
 
hi guys...i have taken my Transp Ref to be reterminated yesterday. meanwhile, i am using an old Audioquest Emerald SE interconnect...SE from CJ thru the Neutrik adaptors into the Gryphon XLR. And the buzzing was there for a brief second once this morning. So the Cable itself is not the culprit. i should get the reterminated Transp Ref next week, along with a different preamp. So lets see what happens.
 
Trial preamp and newly terminated XLR cable arrive on Tuesday. Here's the funny thing...now the buzzing is exclusively in the RIGHT channel!....after having been ONLY in the LEFT channel for the last year. i thought maybe i reversed the ICs by accident when i took my IC out for retermination and inserted the temporary substitutes, but they appear to be correct. Coming up on the 1-year warranty for the work...and still no success. i am going to talk to dealer on Tuesday when they bring over a different pre and the newly reterminated cables.

The only think i did notice was that the ICs coming out of my CJ were fairly HOT to the touch. the ends going into the Gryphon were totally cool. Is that normal?
 
Not sure Lloyd, but I will stick more to the fact of using the XLR converters above other potential causes of the buzzing.
 
Not sure Lloyd, but I will stick more to the fact of using the XLR converters above other potential causes of the buzzing.
Hi Fernando,

Thanks for continuing to watch out on this thread. I hope the XLR is the problem...stayed tuned til Tuesday!!! I will have Xhadow XLRs on my SE interconnect so that it goes straight into the back of the Gryphon. Fingers crossed!
 
I am still not sure though Lloyd, there are a fair amount of differences between both cables such as impedance spec of the preamps and power amps,voltage,design use of pin 1-2-3,shielding-chassis ground implementation,etc.
Any mistakes or differences may have some strange affect on either audio product.
Even going straight XLR I experienced the same issue as you did with buzz but for me due to the design of the XLR cable, and yet the issue did not seem to be noticable for those using different amps - now this was an amp manufacturers by one of the most recognised top pro amps for Europe, who also manufacturer consumer equipment based on same design.
All their pro gear works and is intended with XLR, and yet there was this issue caused by the cable, which strangely did not cause as much issue for some other audio companies.
Motto is; it cannot be taken for granted that doing this will exclude the RCA-XLR setup, but fingers crossed that the issue is resolved and it is the Neutrik :)

Cheers

Orb

Hi Orb, just keeping you posted in real-time. i had been having ridiculous buzzing all morning...every 5 minutes, snapping, buzzing...i would stand there listening to 60 seconds of straight buzzing. i could only make it stop temporarily by flipping the switch to 75% class A and then going back.

Then a friend came by and dropped off a new SE IC...so still using the XLR adaptors. i put in his new RCA ICs and for 20 minutes, the buzzing was still going crazy. Then, all of a sudden, after 25 minutes, there has been no buzzing for 6 hours of straight play. And when the CD last stopped playing, i was struck at how quiet the system sounded...usually there is some kind of amp buzz softly audible thru the speakers. This time...nothing. Quiet, quiet, quiet.

If this buzzing really is (as you suggested) a case of randomly bad interaction between my 2 prior RCA cables and the amp, i will probably ask my friend (who is the manufacturer of this particular RCA cable) to take the Xhadow XLRs i just bought for my Transp Ref ICs...and remove them to put onto his new RCA IC instead. Before doing this, i will keep listening and see what happens. I really, really, truly hope you are right!!!
 
Thanks for the update Lloyd,
problem maybe though some kind of interaction of going RCA to XLR could be the cable/adapter/ or just either the pre or power not liking what is happening in conjunction with either the cable or adapter.
If the buzzing still happened after one change than something is still wrong IMO even if the buzzing stopped after 15 mins, btw have the XLR adapters been swapped yet?

Personally the 1st starting point would be to use a true cable (whether RCA or XLR and no or without converting-adapter) and change the amp or preamp to match each other, so we do not have the situation of going RCA to XLR.
Sorry not more detail which way to go on that as I cannot remember if the power amp is the XLR or RCA.
Cheers
Orb
 
Thanks, Orb. No buzzing this morning. Pre is SE and Amp is XLR. Still using the adaptors, but the new SE cable i am borrow is much lighter...whereas the other 2 were much heavier with network boxes, etc...who knows?...perhaps the weight dragged the XLR adaptor out of position. I will say, with the long Transparent Audio RCA connector and the long Neutrik adaptor, they were sticking about 4-5 inches out from the back of the Amp and sagging slightly. Not too different with AQ Emerald interconnects. We'll see...new pre and re-terminated cables arrive tomorrow. thanks again!
 
Well, the new cables reterminated with XLR (Xhadow) went in...the new preamp went in as a trial...still buzzes. lets' face it...it is probably what most of us have suspected...some little transistor, capacitor that someone very thorough is going to have to find some way, somehow by being very, very detailed oriented.

maybe, when i go away in november, i'll leave it with the Audio tech...and until then, i'll deal with it...its not so often at the moment. once or twice every several hours for just a few seconds.
 
yes, and more importantly. i disconnected the Gryphon from the system overnight...let it rest...turned it on...and it came back. Again for maybe 5 seconds in about 5 hours of playback...but its still there.
 
yes, and more importantly. i disconnected the Gryphon from the system overnight...let it rest...turned it on...and it came back. Again for maybe 5 seconds in about 5 hours of playback...but its still there.

Lloyd,

I am so sorry that you are having this on-going problem and that eventually you can get a working fix.

Rich
 

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