My electrician showed up today and my 20 A dedicated circuit is now installed. No further word from Krell yet.
Not quite true. The breaker will allow quite vicious spikes of current to flow if the equipment demands it, like starting current draws on industrial type equipment. And big amplifiers draw very nasty pulses of current from the mains if they are pumping out some solid bass lines. So then the thickness and configuration of the wire, and hence its impedance does make a difference -- everything matters ...12/2 with ground. Electricians don't understand audiophile babble. They only know what size wire you have to use in order to pass 20 amps of current continuously. A larger wire is not going to pass more current than the breaker will allow to pass.
No babinga wand was waved, but I did plug in my Fluke 77 DVM and made sure the outlet was hot before they left. I'm ready for when the KSA-250 makes it way back to me. I'm looking forward to it.
Yes, the dreaded tweaking disease can infect all sorts of areas. Just be careful it doesn't spread out too far ...Finally, the electrician can clean the connections and retorque them.
. Finally, the electrician can clean the connections and retorque them.
I also use one of those $5 Sears polarity checkers to make sure they wired the outlets correctly. Never know. Mine were fine.
Some tips that were shared with me by Jim Weill of Sound Applications:
Audiophiles might be advised to hire an electrician (and insist on the following) and have them check that the AC lines running to their equipment is on the same leg - otherwise the power transformers will be 180 degrees out of phase and as a result, can increase the noise floor and produce ground loop hum. Another might be for the electrician to measure the power factor on the two legs and select the better of the two. Finally, the electrician can clean the connections and retorque them.
Good advice Myles
I'll go you one better. Jim Weil wired all of the AC outlets of my dedicated lines.
I also use one of those $5 Sears polarity checkers to make sure they wired the outlets correctly. Never know. Mine were fine.
Some tips that were shared with me by Jim Weill of Sound Applications:
Audiophiles might be advised to hire an electrician (and insist on the following) and have them check that the AC lines running to their equipment is on the same leg - otherwise the power transformers will be 180 degrees out of phase and as a result, can increase the noise floor and produce ground loop hum. Another might be for the electrician to measure the power factor on the two legs and select the better of the two. Finally, the electrician can clean the connections and retorque them.
My KBL is repaired and is in "sound check." I should have the repair quote for the KSA-250 tomorrow. I ordered the Adona amp rack for the KSA-250 on Monday. Steve was probably right, both pieces will probably be shipped while we are at the RMAF.
I just received my invoice from Krell for the KSA-250. It's going to cost $1299.00 to repair. I know the KBL is repaired so hopefully I will be turning the corner on this part of the journey.
Is that just for repairs or does the price also include updating?
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