Thanks but Laszlo has msgd me and has solutions.
Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread
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One more vote for the Brimar 5R4GY. Picked up a British made NOS one and it surpasses anything I have tried in my recently updated Pacific 2. Excellent tube.
Heads up in case anyone wants to try the legendary Valvo G2504 rectifier, @Anyoldears is selling a used one on our classifieds. I have no financial interest in this but this is a decent price for a rare rectifier.
Much better than the RCA and GE 5R4GY I also have. At this point it is probably better than my Linlai WE274b, which to date is the best rectifier I have heard in my Pacific. The Brimar is good enough that it can stay in there for 100 hours to run in. I kept swapping the RCA and GE out and putting the Linlai back in for serious listening. This Brimar is superb now even with only maybe 10-15 hours on it. Does everything well. Has the low end grunt, plus it has the sparkle and air of the Linlai, which the other 5R4GY tubes lacked a bit. The other 5R4 types had full, rich bass, but they just didn't have the top end of the Linlai WE274b copy. The Brimar 5R4GY has full extension at both ends and it also gives an even more 3D presentation. It is noticeably better in all regards. The upgrade to the Pacific 2 is an entirely different level of Pacific and this rectifier kicked it up another notch. I am using the standard Russian 6H6N anode load tubes and a quad of Sophia mesh plate 45 (well they are punched plates, not true mesh). The combo is very, very good. It is a balanced Pacific. I have some 46 tubes with adaptors that I really like as well, and will have to try them again. I have only run the 45 tubes since the unit came back from the update. It sounds so good I haven't bothered changing anything but the rectifier.
Which version do you have the Halo or Disk getter version. One has flat plates the other ridged I think. Any chance of a pic?
Hi
Dual ring getter at base. They are definitely rings, not dish, and there are two. Single mica. Here is a photo from the seller's listing
Dual ring getter at base. They are definitely rings, not dish, and there are two. Single mica. Here is a photo from the seller's listing
PT14 quad with TP Zebrano Adapters.
Many thanks to Laszlo (takacs75) not only for a great product but he really helped me out.
I was using KR Audio Anniversary 4A3 which are nice tubes and perform at a high level however these PT14’s take everything up a notch or 2.
This is an old GG1 that was refurbished in 2021. Does anyone know if rectifiers other than 5U4g and 274 can be used? Current draw would be more being a balanced version.
Many thanks to Laszlo (takacs75) not only for a great product but he really helped me out.
I was using KR Audio Anniversary 4A3 which are nice tubes and perform at a high level however these PT14’s take everything up a notch or 2.
This is an old GG1 that was refurbished in 2021. Does anyone know if rectifiers other than 5U4g and 274 can be used? Current draw would be more being a balanced version.
I believe any rectifier that can't be used on a Pacific or Horizon can be used here as well. The Zebrano wood looks scrumptious.
@Gryffles Good to see you proceeding with caution. The Lampizator tube rolling thread is amazing for the variety of tubes that have been swapped in. I recently bought a GG3 single ended. As you point out the current would be higher on a balanced rig. but I think the higher current would most likely challenge the tube rather than any component of the DAC, is it has been built for the current.
I'll point out a couple of good 274Bs that I have tried. One is the Elrog 274B. It is spectacular but burns very bright. Not a problem if you listen ina a bright room. I put a red filter around it. See photo.
The other is an EML Mesh 274B. Also excellent.
Now we get to the ones that you are hesitant to experiment with (not a negativve comment). Today I recieved my first 4 volt rectifier. It is a Telefunken AZ1 that I bought on ebay from Vietnam and my initial impression is very positive. So I think I'm likely to end up a 4 volt fan. I'm pretty sure you could get an official reading on the appropriateness of this tube in your DAC from Lampi.
The Elrog will likely end up for sale so let me know if you're interested.
Jerry
I'll point out a couple of good 274Bs that I have tried. One is the Elrog 274B. It is spectacular but burns very bright. Not a problem if you listen ina a bright room. I put a red filter around it. See photo.
The other is an EML Mesh 274B. Also excellent.
Now we get to the ones that you are hesitant to experiment with (not a negativve comment). Today I recieved my first 4 volt rectifier. It is a Telefunken AZ1 that I bought on ebay from Vietnam and my initial impression is very positive. So I think I'm likely to end up a 4 volt fan. I'm pretty sure you could get an official reading on the appropriateness of this tube in your DAC from Lampi.
The Elrog will likely end up for sale so let me know if you're interested.
Jerry
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Type 27 tube. I don't recall seeing any discussion of it in this thread. easily adaptable to the 4 pin socket we use, this should work in any DHT Lampizator DAC. Has anyone tried a pair/quad? I tried a pair of 45s and found them ok but nothing special, but they were not a special pair....might be able to find better pairs of type 27s.
thanks,
Jerry
thanks,
Jerry
Beautiful !
Have you tried good ol’ Tak 274b? Or RK5u4G? Can’t go wrong with either.
The most important aspect of the recti is lowest noise IMO- and these both fit the bill in my experience,
Also, have you noise tested the pt14 quad? - I suggest experiment with different tube positions for lowest possible noise, with either an unused analog input at max volume or with the digital input on pause. Measure the noise level at the bottom of the speaker with your phone and the NIOSH app or similar.
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No I haven’t tried either of those rectifiers but perhaps I will if I see any used ones.
Once the PT14’s have a few hours on them I will test for noise. That’s a good idea thanks.
@christoph It is a 2.5V heater like 45 and 2A3. It is rated at a lower heater current. I would think it would be just fine.
I didn't know Lampizator had an approved tube list. I didn't get a manual with my Golden Gate 3.
Would love to see the list.
Jerry
I didn't know Lampizator had an approved tube list. I didn't get a manual with my Golden Gate 3.
Would love to see the list.
Jerry
There is no official list.
People ask Lampi directly if a certain tube type can be used.
I don't post blow-by-blow accounts of items burning in anymore, so to not drive myself crazy -- or your inboxes. This time, though, after the seeing the initial effects of adding a ground cable to my GG 2/3, it seems appropriate. For tubes, I've been using a pair of PT-14 and a Telefunken RGN2004 black mesh, both with TP adapters. The recti took at least 500 hours to reach maturity and the combo sounds clear, smooth and rich. However, there have been two problems: 1) I prefer a touch warm sound and the 2004 black mesh is a touch on the other side of the line; and 2) my modified digital-only Oppo 203 has a light 120 Hz hum, while the GG has been the source of a quite audible 60 Hz hum through the speakers, which varies with the volume. As a blind shot to solve the latter, and perhaps the tone, I decided take advantage of the TP adapters' ground ports. Initially, not thinking that a ground cable's quality mattered sonically, I picked up a cheap set off eBay. The result was unacceptable. So I turned to Dave of Zenwave Audio, who had built me a nice sounding DC cable a few years ago.
For a ground cable on his Horizon(?), Laszlo uses Neotech pure silver single core wire, tied together after the tubes and hooked to his Lampi's ground screw. After discussing the matter with Dave, I decided on the less expensive route going with copper over silver — I generally prefer the former — and went with his 14 gauge UPOCC copper litz wire surrounded with a nice cover of techflex braid, gold plated 2mm plugs off Amazon and DH Labs gold plated step-spades. The result arrived today, and three things happened right off: the 60 Hz hum completely disappeared; in its absence, the 120 Hz hum became more apparent; and the sound turned slightly warm. Assuming ground cables need to burn in too, it’s tbd how tonality and clarity develop over time. As for the Oppo, though, I'm not sure how to handle the 120 Hz hum. Any ideas?
The last thing I'll add here is about my ongoing experimentation with contact enhancers/cleaners on the sound of the tubes. First I tried NPS Q45T, originally developed by High Fidelity's Rick Shultz. It is an enhancer, not a cleaner, and it noticeably enhances the soundstage (3D). However, I was surprised to find it also "cooled" the sound a tad, unlike his original NPS-1260, which I liked. So I stripped it and tried 100% isopropyl alcohol. Somewhat better, but now a rough dry sound. My third try was WD-40 contact cleaner and that smoothed the sound a lot, as I described, but it still is more on the dry side. Next up is De-toxit and then maybe back to NPS-1260, if I can find some floating around the used market.
For a ground cable on his Horizon(?), Laszlo uses Neotech pure silver single core wire, tied together after the tubes and hooked to his Lampi's ground screw. After discussing the matter with Dave, I decided on the less expensive route going with copper over silver — I generally prefer the former — and went with his 14 gauge UPOCC copper litz wire surrounded with a nice cover of techflex braid, gold plated 2mm plugs off Amazon and DH Labs gold plated step-spades. The result arrived today, and three things happened right off: the 60 Hz hum completely disappeared; in its absence, the 120 Hz hum became more apparent; and the sound turned slightly warm. Assuming ground cables need to burn in too, it’s tbd how tonality and clarity develop over time. As for the Oppo, though, I'm not sure how to handle the 120 Hz hum. Any ideas?
The last thing I'll add here is about my ongoing experimentation with contact enhancers/cleaners on the sound of the tubes. First I tried NPS Q45T, originally developed by High Fidelity's Rick Shultz. It is an enhancer, not a cleaner, and it noticeably enhances the soundstage (3D). However, I was surprised to find it also "cooled" the sound a tad, unlike his original NPS-1260, which I liked. So I stripped it and tried 100% isopropyl alcohol. Somewhat better, but now a rough dry sound. My third try was WD-40 contact cleaner and that smoothed the sound a lot, as I described, but it still is more on the dry side. Next up is De-toxit and then maybe back to NPS-1260, if I can find some floating around the used market.
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Interesting experiential input. Thank you. Always appreciated.
My experience with the Telefunken black mesh RGN2004 Klangfilm in the rectifier seat of my Horizon is that it added more tube warmth, air and body without loss of dynamics and an accurate transient response compared to other contenders I've tired. However, my pentodes are the P.17c which may explain the difference. As with all things audio, there are system differences which come into lay as well.
As for copper vs. silver in a grounding cable, that is an interesting one given what a grounding cable does and how it operates. It's not an active conductor like a signal cable, so there should be no or a very weak EMF (I would defer to our WBF electrical engineers one that one), especially when the grounding wire is physically separated from the conductor wires and the influence of their EMF. Admittedly, the shielding method is important because you don't want the grounding cable to operate like an antenna attracting other field borne noise like EMI and RFI. That's why I like Laszlo's grounding cables. He addresses isolation in his design.
My experience with the Telefunken black mesh RGN2004 Klangfilm in the rectifier seat of my Horizon is that it added more tube warmth, air and body without loss of dynamics and an accurate transient response compared to other contenders I've tired. However, my pentodes are the P.17c which may explain the difference. As with all things audio, there are system differences which come into lay as well.
As for copper vs. silver in a grounding cable, that is an interesting one given what a grounding cable does and how it operates. It's not an active conductor like a signal cable, so there should be no or a very weak EMF (I would defer to our WBF electrical engineers one that one), especially when the grounding wire is physically separated from the conductor wires and the influence of their EMF. Admittedly, the shielding method is important because you don't want the grounding cable to operate like an antenna attracting other field borne noise like EMI and RFI. That's why I like Laszlo's grounding cables. He addresses isolation in his design.
To clarify, I found the 2004 black mesh noticeably closer than the silver to my sense of sufficient warmth — not much — but not quite there. The feeling of my stomach is my canary. Somehow if the tone of what I’m hearing, at least on the “neutral” side, isn’t to my liking, my stomach (abs?) tightens and I get this feeling of trying to push it over.
What’s Lazlo’s shielding? He didn’t mention that to me, although the photo below shows a braid cover. He uses this wire: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/mono...lver-single-core-ptfe-05mm-20awg-p-17577.html.
What’s Lazlo’s shielding? He didn’t mention that to me, although the photo below shows a braid cover. He uses this wire: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/mono...lver-single-core-ptfe-05mm-20awg-p-17577.html.
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