In my Pacific, I am using the exact same tubes and TP adapters that @adamaley is using. Sometimes I swap PT35 for PT14, sonically, there is little difference between PT35 and PT14. I slightly prefer PT35.
In my GG, again, same tubes and adapters, minus the EF802, obviously.
I am simple man, wherever @adamley and @Blake go, there go I. But be forewarned, communication with either will likely lead to DRS (ducat reduction syndrome)...
Both have been helpful for me, especially since going to the GG2/3. If I could just squeeze that spare (reasonably priced) Valvo G2504 out of someone...
Both have been helpful for me, especially since going to the GG2/3. If I could just squeeze that spare (reasonably priced) Valvo G2504 out of someone...
For subjective expression it does seem to be good.
For engineering facts and content, I don't personally rate it.
Paramount objective of the thread is to share experiences between people with the same interest in said topic i.e. which valves/tubes seem to be the best.
Not an easy question to answer. Because there is no clear cut one.
Any one into VT-25 and VT-25A ceramic base Western Electric tubes/valves?
Which is the thoriated effort i.e. which glows brighter? I have seen reports/posts on this aspect which make me unsure.
Please don't post anything that can be found by search engines unless you have recently found genuine posts that add value to the public knowledge base. I have tried the popular ones recently and quite extensively.
Whilst I can easily run this tube/valve, I am not really expecting responses from Lampi owners that generally can't run this tube within the expected normal parameters or constraints.
So, geezers and mostly old ones, you got anything?
Well I have like entire bunch of VT25 with ceramic base from Taylor, WE and some others - can't remember the names but the ones I'm using day in day out are the ancient globe 801a black plates. I also have 801a silver plate and Elrog 801a but none can reach the beauty of 801a black plates (silver ones are immediately behind them).
All of them are of course Thoriated Tungsten . I did not notice and major diff in the glow except with the Elrog which is the brightest one.
All of this in my Tobian SC12 pre which is built around VT25/801a/10Y
New issue WE300b are not bad - just sayin- don’t forget the obvious.
I put them back in just to be sure they still worked. They do. I may just keep them on awhile.
Any one into VT-25 and VT-25A ceramic base Western Electric tubes/valves?
Which is the thoriated effort i.e. which glows brighter? I have seen reports/posts on this aspect which make me unsure.
Please don't post anything that can be found by search engines unless you have recently found genuine posts that add value to the public knowledge base. I have tried the popular ones recently and quite extensively.
Whilst I can easily run this tube/valve, I am not really expecting responses from Lampi owners that generally can't run this tube within the expected normal parameters or constraints.
So, geezers and mostly old ones, you got anything?
thats a 7.5v heater tube , cant be used in the dacs? i have run through quite a lot of 10y variants in my preamps - what component are you using this in?
thats a 7.5v heater tube , cant be used in the dacs? i have run through quite a lot of 10y variants in my preamps - what component are you using this in?
Well I have like entire bunch of VT25 with ceramic base from Taylor, WE and some others - can't remember the names but the ones I'm using day in day out are the ancient globe 801a black plates. I also have 801a silver plate and Elrog 801a but none can reach the beauty of 801a black plates (silver ones are immediately behind them).
All of them are of course Thoriated Tungsten . I did not notice and major diff in the glow except with the Elrog which is the brightest one.
All of this in my Tobian SC12 pre which is built around VT25/801a/10Y
