The bad tube has a lower resistance then. They don’t pull actually they push back lol.Ok. So here is what is very interesting.
I measured the voltage of both Tesla AD1ns on both the 300B and 101D settings.
300B 101D
Good Tube 5.023 4.969
Bad Tube 4.993 4.099
So, for some reason, the "good" tube is pulling 5V even on the 101D setting. This is resulting in it playing louder than the "bad" tube. On the 300B setting they are pulling the same voltage and are playing at the same volume.
What is going on here?
@adamaley , @Al M. @User211
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This is cold will be lower then hot but should be closer then what you show. Use ohms law to show resRight, here's what I just did.
First I measured the resistance of the multimeter leads by touching them together.
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Then I measured the filament resistance thus. It's low Ohms and the result is a bit variable because of it I think. Some pics to show variance:View attachment 68458
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What you are supposed to do it subtract the lead resistance from the filament measured resistance so let's say we have a 1.9 Ohm filament from those readings.
Guys never let the tube voltage at pins be above the spec voltageI get 3.97 and 4.02 on the 101D setting.
This is cold will be lower then hot but should be closer then what you show. Use ohms law to show res
Example r= E/I
Example r = 5/ 1 amp
R = 5 ohms
This is what they shoukd be when hot. Use this to determine the rest
Apparently only the boldened pins in this diagram are involved in heating the tube.
It’s for illustration I don’t know tube specs you guys are using
All I’m doing is trying to keep you guys on track. After the amp setting used on pins you guys freaked me out lol.
read my posts and ask I’ll help all I can
Let me say this it’s a bad idea to go above the rated tube voltage period. you will kill the tube for sureWhy are you using 1 amp as an example Al it's a 2 amp 4V tube? Therefore 2 Ohms should be the reading when hot.
TBH my meter was all over the place trying to measure the resistance. I am not confident in the actual value. But I did see lower readings on average as the valve cooled, as you would expect.
I am quite happy with running at 4.5V because all my AD1 work no matter what and sound excellent. They certainly didn't work at PX4/101D switch position at the time of the last Lucasz modification - you definitely get the problems with output drop the other guys see.
Let me say this it’s a bad idea to go above the rated tube voltage period. you will kill the tube for sure
Also you making the tube be out of spec as well. More distortion and it may add more gain
Lower tube voltage is far safer and any damage can be reversed over time of corrected
voltage at tube leads is the most accurate way to know tube is getting correct voltage.
Don't worry Al.
Both the chap that did the mods and I both think the Tesla AD1n needs more than 4V to work properly. We've just been discussing it. This is backed up by adamely and dminches experience. That's why I am running at 4.5V.
It's a bit like writing software where you have to code around errors in library code sometimes.
The sockets don't have voltage regulators in.
We're seriously skeptical about the Pac switch labelled 101D/PX25 but hey, what do I or he know (he knows a lot more than I do LOL).