Agree...just get people who know what they are doing...and they should be in and out on cutting within a day...and probably fully done with laying down a proper conduit and sealing the cavity back up again the next day.
metal conduit for interconnects
- Thread starter Ron Resnick
- Start date
Agree...just get people who know what they are doing...and they should be in and out on cutting within a day...and probably fully done with laying down a proper conduit and sealing the cavity back up again the next day.
While on that topic, I would definitely cut through the concrete for AC power. In this day and age, you are going to have a tablet, computer, etc. where you sit and you want to have local power outlet there as opposed to running a cord to the wall.
You don't have to do that.
Just box out your floor moulding and you will be able to hide all your cables. Screw on the moulding so it is easily removable. You can stain or paint the screw heads to match your moulding. I did all my own floor moulding. ALL my wood stained moulding is screwed on exactly every 16 inches. Shirts have buttons, floor moulding has screws.
Nobody notices them until I mention that I made it all 100% retrievable just like a fine dental implant prosthesis! I made it retrievable because when it comes time to paint the walls again, the moulding can be removed (all pieces are numbered) and no paint will ever get on it and deface the woodwork.
Steve williams
Site Founder, Site Owner, Administrator
IIRC Ron said the cable goes across an entry from the adjacent room to his music roomYou don't have to do that.
Just box out your floor moulding and you will be able to hide all your cables. Screw on the moulding so it is easily removable. You can stain or paint the screw heads to match your moulding. I did all my own floor moulding. ALL my wood stained moulding is screwed on exactly every 16 inches. Shirts have buttons, floor moulding has screws.
Yep....just have a finish carpenter box mold the archway and come down the inside of the wall. Some drywall work but it should be aestheticly pretty nice.
I don't know what you mean by box out the molding.
The problem with up, over and down is that it would add about 15 feet to the length of the interconnects.
The problem with up, over and down is that it would add about 15 feet to the length of the interconnects.
Steve williams
Site Founder, Site Owner, Administrator
Box out the moulding--make a box channel along the floor/wall junction. The wall and floor form two sides of the box and the moulding and a top piece closes the box. The cables are laid in the channel and the moulding lies about 2-3" from the wall, covering "the box". Any decent carpenter can do it.
I know what I would do. Depending if the archway is framed or solid(header) or a combination will depend how I would approach it. If partially hollow just redo the drywall where you run the cable. If solid have a finish carpenter make a false trim box that the cable can be hidden in. I have a beam in my room that is partially hollow,boxed with gypsum board,muddled And finished.
I would use a lesser bridge IC cable as I believe that your core cables on either side of the bridge will enable the bridge to not effect the sound quality.
Talk to your contractor and he will be able to tell you if the archway wall is load bearing. You can tap on it and see if it is hollow.
I use quad mic cable in my system with my core cables and since they all carry just audio signal,there is no degradation.
I would use a lesser bridge IC cable as I believe that your core cables on either side of the bridge will enable the bridge to not effect the sound quality.
Talk to your contractor and he will be able to tell you if the archway wall is load bearing. You can tap on it and see if it is hollow.
I use quad mic cable in my system with my core cables and since they all carry just audio signal,there is no degradation.
Last edited:
I appreciate the thought. As a result of an earlier electrical upgrade the listening room has a set of original, dirty outlets, and a set of generic, dedicated AC outlets. This current project adds a set of fancy dedicated outlets. So there is plenty of AC around.
I don't need no stink'in computer attached to my stereo! That ain't never gonna happen!
There is room for racks at the rear wall, but I really like locating the front-end components in a separate room. We talk so much about vibration I like being able to keep the front-end components out of the line of fire of the speakers.
It's ideal except for that you'll be running back to your seat every time you put an LP on You're a fit guy anyway my friend
You're a fit guy anyway my friend 
I've considered having my TT next to my chair
There's caring and OCD. I don't think anything more than a rice rack and maybe iso feet are really necessary. It's not like anyone has truly committed to the most absolute of anything, we all have limits.
There's caring and OCD. I don't think anything more than a rice rack and maybe iso feet are really necessary. It's not like anyone has truly committed to the most absolute of anything, we all have limits.
You don't need to worry about vibration with what you're buying Ron
! You listened to very loud volumes here and felt the music in your gut and it never affected any of the turntables here.david