I'm agnostic when it comes to DRC even if analog is my preferred medium. If I were to go active XO it would be with the DEQX. I've spoken with Mr. Langford about his units. The thing is the XO is the easy part. Problem with analog active XOs is that settings can go awry when you clean the suckers not much peace of mind there. With a digital solution you have your settings file and you're all good, gotta love being able to back things up. Then there's driver correction.......
The rule of thumb is to get your room as good as you can get it so your DRC needs to do less work. Sounds logical to me. What most people don't know about SOTA passive loudspeakers is that there's more to the XOs in there than just chopping up frequencies. The closely guarded parts are the passive driver correction networks some of which include circuits that keep impedance as flat as possible. Not so long ago manufacturers didn't talk about their XOs, in a crowded market however that has changed. Driver correction is what I would really be interested in in an all active system. The fallacy is that if you get rid of the passive XOs all is peachy. The fact is that if your speaker has correction circuits in your XO and you bypass these you've got a heck of a lot of work to do, an XO that can do that job and you'll need a quiet open space to measure and program the said corrections. The DEQX manual gives a nice rundown of the procedure. Aside from lugging your loudspeakers outdoors it pretty much does everything for you. Nice!
Recently I've been tube rolling just my Mid and Treble amplifier. No other changes. What I observed is in line with what Tom Danley and Mark Seaton have been saying about subwoofer "speed". It ain't the subwoofers! Switching between Mullards, Telefunkens and Valvos it became clearly apparent that so called "speed" and "punch" came from much higher up in the range. Conversely one has to wonder just how attuned we are to changes in a narrow mid bass region and thus wonder how much one really has to spend if all you're after is a stiff amplifier. Like I said in the other thread quality, in my case where I am passively, horizontally, tri-amping takes a back seat to having input sensitivities lined up as close as possible because this will allow consistency over a wider amplitude range and not get you stuck at a few volume settings where the system hopefully gels. I reckon we will be to bothered far more with the non-linearities than we would be about the slight differences in mid bass only quality. I'm betting I could get away with a Crest or Crown amplifier with attenuator controls for mid-bass duty, it just wouldn't look as cool
This brings me to why I don't actually do it. I mean I do have an RP-1 that does 2+2. It has proven itself to hoodwink many a listener into thinking that the LPs being played were never ADC'ed, processed then DAC'ed. The Midbass amps are bought and paid for and since they are 4 years old I'd have to sell them for a lot less than their performance should dictate. No thanks! The short answer is that I don't have to. I am wasting electricity I guess but with Class A amps up top and A/AB amps that run the first 40+ watts in Class A that's a given. I also save on a pair of interconnects LOL.
Now why did I do what I did do? Short answer: big room. The M2.2 alone could blow the roof off, the M1.2 alone sounds strained when I get frisky but otherwise has a superior midrange and superior highs. So I married the two. Best of both worlds
The rule of thumb is to get your room as good as you can get it so your DRC needs to do less work. Sounds logical to me. What most people don't know about SOTA passive loudspeakers is that there's more to the XOs in there than just chopping up frequencies. The closely guarded parts are the passive driver correction networks some of which include circuits that keep impedance as flat as possible. Not so long ago manufacturers didn't talk about their XOs, in a crowded market however that has changed. Driver correction is what I would really be interested in in an all active system. The fallacy is that if you get rid of the passive XOs all is peachy. The fact is that if your speaker has correction circuits in your XO and you bypass these you've got a heck of a lot of work to do, an XO that can do that job and you'll need a quiet open space to measure and program the said corrections. The DEQX manual gives a nice rundown of the procedure. Aside from lugging your loudspeakers outdoors it pretty much does everything for you. Nice!
Recently I've been tube rolling just my Mid and Treble amplifier. No other changes. What I observed is in line with what Tom Danley and Mark Seaton have been saying about subwoofer "speed". It ain't the subwoofers! Switching between Mullards, Telefunkens and Valvos it became clearly apparent that so called "speed" and "punch" came from much higher up in the range. Conversely one has to wonder just how attuned we are to changes in a narrow mid bass region and thus wonder how much one really has to spend if all you're after is a stiff amplifier. Like I said in the other thread quality, in my case where I am passively, horizontally, tri-amping takes a back seat to having input sensitivities lined up as close as possible because this will allow consistency over a wider amplitude range and not get you stuck at a few volume settings where the system hopefully gels. I reckon we will be to bothered far more with the non-linearities than we would be about the slight differences in mid bass only quality. I'm betting I could get away with a Crest or Crown amplifier with attenuator controls for mid-bass duty, it just wouldn't look as cool
This brings me to why I don't actually do it. I mean I do have an RP-1 that does 2+2. It has proven itself to hoodwink many a listener into thinking that the LPs being played were never ADC'ed, processed then DAC'ed. The Midbass amps are bought and paid for and since they are 4 years old I'd have to sell them for a lot less than their performance should dictate. No thanks! The short answer is that I don't have to. I am wasting electricity I guess but with Class A amps up top and A/AB amps that run the first 40+ watts in Class A that's a given. I also save on a pair of interconnects LOL.
Now why did I do what I did do? Short answer: big room. The M2.2 alone could blow the roof off, the M1.2 alone sounds strained when I get frisky but otherwise has a superior midrange and superior highs. So I married the two. Best of both worlds