Review: Martin Logan Dynamo 10 (2024)

[Mendel]

Well I finally did it and added a pair of subwoofers to my Acoustat electrostatic speakers. My Acoustats have a switch on the interface which allows the speakers to run full range (the way I ran them for the last 15 years), or to cut everything below100 hertz off of the panels and send a full range signal out via binding post to an external subwoofer (at speaker level). Acoustat actually produced a sub that was often sold as a package with the Spectra 22 and 33 speakers. I was always concerned about integrating subs with the panels, but after a recent health scare I finally decided it was now or maybe never.
I chose the new Martin Logan Dynamo 10 for several reasons:
1) They were affordable at under Canadian $3K for a pair, so if things didn’t work out I would not be out a lot and I could move them along easily.
2) With a sealed 10 inch woofer, I hoped they would be “fast” enough to keep up with the panels and play easily up to 100 hertz.
3) They are small at basically a 12 inch cube and look great, but are not flimsy at 43 pounds.
4) Martin Logan produces electrostatic speakers with woofers so their subwoofers should be easy to integrate with electrostatic speakers.
5) The subwoofers are controlled with an app from your seat which allows full control of the subwoofer, including volume, low pass filter (frequency and slope), and fully variable phase from 0 to 180 degrees in one degree intervals, and more. You can even buy a microphone and use Anthem Room Correction (may try this).
It’s only been a week or so, and I’m still doing a little fine tuning, but I am very happy I finally did this. The app is a pleasure to use with independent control of each subwoofer. Bass is tight and powerful down to 25 hertz or so. Never had bass this low in my system. And the panels, relieved of producing low bass notes, sound more open, purer and dynamic. The system is now effectively biamped with all the benefits that brings. Imagining is also improved, with the added low frequency room cues. The only thing I’m considering is raising the subs maybe 10 inches or so off the floor to more closely align their output with the panels.
The Martin Logan Dynamo 10 Subwoofer is a great little sub and a great value. Highly Recommended!

 

[CmdrTaco]

Since this is the only post that shows up from a user about this sub just figured I'd add to it. Just picked this up (some great prices on open box floating around). I moved from full range huge tannoy speakers with a nad m10 / dirac to smaller dali oberon 5s with a Sony avr awhile ago. Sony does some things pretty well but their sub management sucks, so I was wavering between a rythmik or kef kc92 w/dspeaker or a martin Logan dynamo 10 or the elac varro rs500. Basically a "smaller" 10-12" sub with wireless and room correction.

Decided to give this a shot since it had the wireless and room correction boxes checked out of the box. The wireless does operate on 2.4 so you can get some audible oscillating morse code, but you can get rid of this mostly using the built in lpf. Also recommend this sub, great performance. Definitely would need two to really get bumping, but given that I'm condo living not really an option for me, regardless can recommend this sub as a good sealed option to fill in that low end. Also love the quick access to drop the 20-30hz to -10db via the app.

No scientific analysis from me but here's the arc read out in my 1600 cu. ft. living room (prolly really closer to 3000 with the adjacent open spaces).

 

[hoodjem]

The only thing I’m considering is raising the subs maybe 10 inches or so off the floor to more closely align their output with the panels.
The Martin Logan Dynamo 10 Subwoofer is a great little sub and a great value. Highly Recommended!

I think this is a good idea.
When I got a ML Depth sub to go with my ML CLS II electrostats, I was amazed at how much spatial ambience I gained, and that I did not lose any transparency.

I also built a base or stand to elevate the sub about eight inches. This helped them to integrate better with the electrostat panels which are about 8” off the floor. It also helped not to lose any of the bass, which could be absorbed in the carpeted floor.

As much as time alignment is extremely important with electrostatic speakers, so is 3-D space alignment.

 

[Cue Stat]

Well I finally did it and added a pair of subwoofers to my Acoustat electrostatic speakers. My Acoustats have a switch on the interface which allows the speakers to run full range (the way I ran them for the last 15 years), or to cut everything below100 hertz off of the panels and send a full range signal out via binding post to an external subwoofer (at speaker level). Acoustat actually produced a sub that was often sold as a package with the Spectra 22 and 33 speakers. I was always concerned about integrating subs with the panels, but after a recent health scare I finally decided it was now or maybe never.
I chose the new Martin Logan Dynamo 10 for several reasons:
1) They were affordable at under Canadian $3K for a pair, so if things didn’t work out I would not be out a lot and I could move them along easily.
2) With a sealed 10 inch woofer, I hoped they would be “fast” enough to keep up with the panels and play easily up to 100 hertz.
3) They are small at basically a 12 inch cube and look great, but are not flimsy at 43 pounds.
4) Martin Logan produces electrostatic speakers with woofers so their subwoofers should be easy to integrate with electrostatic speakers.
5) The subwoofers are controlled with an app from your seat which allows full control of the subwoofer, including volume, low pass filter (frequency and slope), and fully variable phase from 0 to 180 degrees in one degree intervals, and more. You can even buy a microphone and use Anthem Room Correction (may try this).
It’s only been a week or so, and I’m still doing a little fine tuning, but I am very happy I finally did this. The app is a pleasure to use with independent control of each subwoofer. Bass is tight and powerful down to 25 hertz or so. Never had bass this low in my system. And the panels, relieved of producing low bass notes, sound more open, purer and dynamic. The system is now effectively biamped with all the benefits that brings. Imagining is also improved, with the added low frequency room cues. The only thing I’m considering is raising the subs maybe 10 inches or so off the floor to more closely align their output with the panels.
The Martin Logan Dynamo 10 Subwoofer is a great little sub and a great value. Highly Recommended!

Hope it's not bad form to be reply to/re-activating an older thread, but this really caught my interest as I've been giving serious consideration to adding one or two subs to my Acoustats (Model 3s), and more specifically, the ML Abyss 10 subwoofer (also looking at similarly-priced SVS subs). May I inquire further as to your experience with the ML sub and your Acoustats, and in particular, whether you added a second sub and/or any issues encountered with integration (or have any tips in this regard). It appears that you've high-passed the Acoustats and perhaps I missed it, but am wondering how you accomplished this (e.g., external crossover, pre-amp with bass mgmt, or ...?).

 

[hoodjem]

Hope it's not bad form to be reply to/re-activating an older thread, but this really caught my interest as I've been giving serious consideration to adding one or two subs to my Acoustats (Model 3s), and more specifically, the ML Abyss 10 subwoofer (also looking at similarly-priced SVS subs). May I inquire further as to your experience with the ML sub and your Acoustats, and in particular, whether you added a second sub and/or any issues encountered with integration (or have any tips in this regard). It appears that you've high-passed the Acoustats and perhaps I missed it, but am wondering how you accomplished this (e.g., external crossover, pre-amp with bass mgmt, or ...?).

I recently added Rythmik subwoofers to my Martin Logan CLS II speakers.
I previously had a single Martin Logan Depth running in mono between them. The Depth has three 8” aluminum drivers. These 8” drivers were vey fast and readily integrated with the electrostat panels, but I wanted a stereo pair of subs.

I chose a pair of Rythmik FM8 subs, largely because of the quickness of the smaller 8” drivers and the minimal size (11.5” width) of the solid enclosure. (The single Depth sub is 16” wide.) Each unit has two 300 wrms amps with each amp driving a single 8” speaker. So, ultimately 1200 watts into four speakers.

I placed the FM8 subs between my CLS panels with the fronts of all being flush. I built some solid platforms to place under IsoAcoustics stands to help raise the subs off the floor and closer align them with the electrostat panels.

Initially, I had planned to purchase a JL Audio CR-1 crossover to help fine tune the integration among the electrostats and subs. But using the internal crossover on the subs has proven to sound so good that I don’t think it’s necessary.

Needless to say, I could hardly be more happy with this setup: tighter bass, quicker bass, more articulate stereo bass, and a much better and deeper soundstage. Plus, the electrostatic panels now sound smoother, cleaner, and play more effortlessly being relieved of playing anything down low.

 

[Cue Stat]

Hoodjem, thank you for your generous reply. Really appreciated. While I had heard of the brand before, I hadn’t given any previous consideration to Rythmik or that upright style. That said, it appears there is some uncertainty regarding price and availability of the FM8s, although perhaps that only shows up for Canadian visitors to its website (tariff-related uncertainty, it appears). Anyway, your reply has really got me to thinking about other options in that general style. More to the point, I am very interested to learn of your success with a sub-based high pass filter/crossover (unfortunately, not offered on many subs) and your move to elevate to better match the ML ‘stats you own, which has further led me to ponder other options. Thanks again for the informative response.

 

[hoodjem]

Cue Stat,
Sorry, I did not mean to suggest that you should do what I did.
I simply thought our situations were quite similar. I wanted to point out that adding subs to electrostats is not only possible, but sometimes yields wonderful results.

As I mentioned, I went with Ryhmik FM8s partly because of their size relative to my limited space (i.e. my listening room is only 12’ wide). If I had more space, I certainly would have considered other, bigger options—like ML Abyss subs. When I started pondering doing this and researching likely candidates, I was quite disappointed to discover that 90% of subs are big fat cubes.

Based on my experience with the ML Depth sub, I will predict that the Abyss subs will certainly be fast enough. If you wish, I can send you the Rythmik email address. It is best to contact Rythmik directly with a specific question. (The FM8 subs were always listed as “Out of Stock” on their website; I had to contact them directly to facilitate the transaction.) And the tariffs fiasco has certainly thrown a wrench into everything.

In any case, the FM8 subs were everything I needed and wanted. (They were the single sub that resided in the center of all the circles of my Venn diagram of wants.) The Abyss were high on my list if the Rythmik FM8s were unavailable. Being an owner of their electrostats and one of their subs, I definitely believe that Martin Logan makes quality products.

P.S.
1) I listen to music only. No home theatre. I don’t need grunt or slam or boom.
2) After setting up the ML CLS panels multiple times and learning that 1/4” movement can make a cogent difference, I strongly believe in exacting physical positioning and alignment. I use laser pointers.
3) I love high pass filters on subs. The ML Depth had one. IMHO, with electrostats the main speakers really “breathe” easier and play better when relieved of all that low frequency duty.

 

[Cue Stat]

Hoodjem: While your (original) response did broaden my horizons, worry not about unduly influencing my choices. I took your response exactly as I think you intended, i.e., to illustrate that subs can be successfully added to electrostatics. I tend to take quite a bit of time researching and considering any decisions to purchase and, in this regard, was tickled by your Venn diagram reference (to which I can relate). When the right decision is made, I also tend to stick with it, e.g., the Acoustats were purchased by me in '82 or '83, which is to say that I'm the original owner and using them some some 45 years later (and still own the Acoustat TNT-200 amp bought at the same time, although not currently using it to drive the Model 3s). And speaking of overlap, we also have in common a music-only (no HT) listening environment. So all-in-all your comments have been very much on-point and useful and accepted in the spirit in which you offered them.

Finally, I appreciate the advice to contact Rythmik directly and the offer to share the email address. I'm not sure whether that's the sort of thing that is permitted here or whether there is some private messaging capability here. I'll suggest that you do whatever you think best/appropriate. To be clear, at this point, I don't even know the price of the FM8, so uncertain whether I'd be interested, but I'm interested to gather all the information I can. Thanks again for your time and, I must say, your eloquent communications (which are appreciated for style as much as content).

 

[Mendel]

Hope it's not bad form to be reply to/re-activating an older thread, but this really caught my interest as I've been giving serious consideration to adding one or two subs to my Acoustats (Model 3s), and more specifically, the ML Abyss 10 subwoofer (also looking at similarly-priced SVS subs). May I inquire further as to your experience with the ML sub and your Acoustats, and in particular, whether you added a second sub and/or any issues encountered with integration (or have any tips in this regard). It appears that you've high-passed the Acoustats and perhaps I missed it, but am wondering how you accomplished this (e.g., external crossover, pre-amp with bass mgmt, or ...?).

Hi Cue Stat.
As you can see from the photo in my initial post, I am running a stereo pair of the ML subs with my Spectra’s. I am very fortunate in that my Acoustat interfaces have a switch on the back that allows me to run the panels full range or cut all frequencies below 100 hertz of the panels and use a subwoofer. Although having the subs produce the bass is a big benefit, I really think the biggest gain is relieving the panels of having to reproduce low frequencies. In direct comparison with subs in verses running full range, the subs version sound much cleaner and clear, the full range sounds kind of bloated and ill defined, especially on complex music. I think duo (stereo) subs are a must if you are going to cross over higher than 50 or 60 hertz.
So yes definitely high passed and stereo subs. Getting the bass off your panels will improve your sound in my opinion. The problem (in your setup) is going to be to find a crossover that is transparent. Again I’m very lucky that my interfaces has one built in. 100hertz seems to be about right for Acoustats, you could possibly go to 120 or so if you went with 8 inch drivers. I would not go bigger than 10 inch drivers with Acoustats. They are rolled off in the treble anyways (i use dipole super tweeters to help them up there), so 18 hertz bass is not going to sound very realistic with them, and small drivers will blend better with the panels up around 100 hertz.
I intend to build some dedicated stands to raise my subs off the floor and better align them with the panels. Right now I have the front feet of the subs on vibropods and this tilts the subs upwards to fire towards my listening seat.
I did look at the Rythmic FM8 with the tall cabinet and twin 8 inch drives but when I enquired by email I never received a response back from Rythmic and they appeared to be unavailable. I’m sure they would have been a great choice and am not surprised that Hoodjem likes his. But for me (also in Canada) it was much easier (and less costly) to just get the ML subs from my local dealer.
Cheers!

 

[Mendel]

Hoodjem: While your (original) response did broaden my horizons, worry not about unduly influencing my choices. I took your response exactly as I think you intended, i.e., to illustrate that subs can be successfully added to electrostatics. I tend to take quite a bit of time researching and considering any decisions to purchase and, in this regard, was tickled by your Venn diagram reference (to which I can relate). When the right decision is made, I also tend to stick with it, e.g., the Acoustats were purchased by me in '82 or '83, which is to say that I'm the original owner and using them some some 45 years later (and still own the Acoustat TNT-200 amp bought at the same time, although not currently using it to drive the Model 3s). And speaking of overlap, we also have in common a music-only (no HT) listening environment. So all-in-all your comments have been very much on-point and useful and accepted in the spirit in which you offered them.

Finally, I appreciate the advice to contact Rythmik directly and the offer to share the email address. I'm not sure whether that's the sort of thing that is permitted here or whether there is some private messaging capability here. I'll suggest that you do whatever you think best/appropriate. To be clear, at this point, I don't even know the price of the FM8, so uncertain whether I'd be interested, but I'm interested to gather all the information I can. Thanks again for your time and, I must say, your eloquent communications (which are appreciated for style as much as content).

Cue Stat:
A couple of other things to get the most out of your Acoustats:
If you speakers are all original from 45 years ago, you can be almost certain that your bias current has dropped and certain parts in the interface are no longer in spec. The Acoustat panels are nearly indestructible, the interfaces not so much. There are some dedicated ex Acoustat employees that work on them, but I had a (very talented) local tech rebuild mine. There really aren’t that many parts in the interfaces, he just basically replaced every part except the transformers and juiced the bias current up to 6000V Cost less than a grand and made a huge improvement!
I find the “burlap sack” fabric that covers the speakers really muffles the sound. So I run my “naked” as shown in the picture. Not very domestic looking, but they sound way better. If appearance is an issue you can always recover them with spandex (which is much more acoustically transparent).
Have you vacuumed your panels and done the hair dryer treatment? A more modest improvement but still worthwhile. I do mine yearly. Lots of info online regarding this. Make sure you keep the dryer moving or you can burn your panel!
Long live Acoustat!

 

[hoodjem]

Hoodjem: While your (original) response did broaden my horizons, worry not about unduly influencing my choices. I took your response exactly as I think you intended, i.e., to illustrate that subs can be successfully added to electrostatics. I tend to take quite a bit of time researching and considering any decisions to purchase and, in this regard, was tickled by your Venn diagram reference (to which I can relate). When the right decision is made, I also tend to stick with it, e.g., the Acoustats were purchased by me in '82 or '83, which is to say that I'm the original owner and using them some some 45 years later (and still own the Acoustat TNT-200 amp bought at the same time, although not currently using it to drive the Model 3s). And speaking of overlap, we also have in common a music-only (no HT) listening environment. So all-in-all your comments have been very much on-point and useful and accepted in the spirit in which you offered them.

Finally, I appreciate the advice to contact Rythmik directly and the offer to share the email address. I'm not sure whether that's the sort of thing that is permitted here or whether there is some private messaging capability here. I'll suggest that you do whatever you think best/appropriate. To be clear, at this point, I don't even know the price of the FM8, so uncertain whether I'd be interested, but I'm interested to gather all the information I can. Thanks again for your time and, I must say, your eloquent communications (which are appreciated for style as much as content).

Cue Stat,
We must be “brothers from another mother”: I bought my electrostats in 1989 or 1990.
(I too am the original and only owner.) When I first heard them, I couldn’t believe that such purity and transparency existed in electronically reproduced music. When listening to these speakers at a dealer, I felt like I was in the studio or concert hall with the musicians. I fell in love with them immediately.
I have never looked back or at another pair of speakers since.

I agree with much of what Mendel stated above. Stereo subs are the way to go. Smaller drivers tend to be faster and tighter. Sealed subs also, not ported. A high pass crossover will help your Acoustats to play better, smoother, and with more refinement. (There are some good add-on crossover units out there.) Physical alignment with stands will also help the integration. Fortunately, my Martin Logan CLS panels do not have cloth covers.

Before I bought the ML Depth sub, I resisted adding a sub—thinking that the extra cables and circuitry could detract from the transparency I loved so much. Nope, I was wrong. I experienced no loss of transparency and gained much in terms of smoothness, fullness, and soundstage information. Everything is better.

Take care and happy hunting,
hoodjem

 

[Cue Stat]

Hi Cue Stat.
As you can see from the photo in my initial post, I am running a stereo pair of the ML subs with my Spectra’s. I am very fortunate in that my Acoustat interfaces have a switch on the back that allows me to run the panels full range or cut all frequencies below 100 hertz of the panels and use a subwoofer. Although having the subs produce the bass is a big benefit, I really think the biggest gain is relieving the panels of having to reproduce low frequencies. In direct comparison with subs in verses running full range, the subs version sound much cleaner and clear, the full range sounds kind of bloated and ill defined, especially on complex music. I think duo (stereo) subs are a must if you are going to cross over higher than 50 or 60 hertz.
So yes definitely high passed and stereo subs. Getting the bass off your panels will improve your sound in my opinion. The problem (in your setup) is going to be to find a crossover that is transparent. Again I’m very lucky that my interfaces has one built in. 100hertz seems to be about right for Acoustats, you could possibly go to 120 or so if you went with 8 inch drivers. I would not go bigger than 10 inch drivers with Acoustats. They are rolled off in the treble anyways (i use dipole super tweeters to help them up there), so 18 hertz bass is not going to sound very realistic with them, and small drivers will blend better with the panels up around 100 hertz.
I intend to build some dedicated stands to raise my subs off the floor and better align them with the panels. Right now I have the front feet of the subs on vibropods and this tilts the subs upwards to fire towards my listening seat.
I did look at the Rythmic FM8 with the tall cabinet and twin 8 inch drives but when I enquired by email I never received a response back from Rythmic and they appeared to be unavailable. I’m sure they would have been a great choice and am not surprised that Hoodjem likes his. But for me (also in Canada) it was much easier (and less costly) to just get the ML subs from my local dealer.
Cheers!

Mendel:

Appreciate the pic. Have never seen the post-Hafler-sale interface before, with that useful switch to which you refer. I have the MK-121 interface (circa '82 or '83) - no switch to cut off lower frequencies, but with a dial-style switch to adjust high frequencies (which I don't think I've ever used or, if I did, it was a long time ago).

I also appreciate your comments about tailoring the bass to suit the upper end, which is to say, to avoid going too low so as to cause an unnatural relationship with the rolled-off highs (although I note your use of a super-tweeter which suggests to me that you may be younger than me or, in any event, have better hearing than I do, heheheh). I like the roll-off, although perhaps some might argue it lends a 'dark' tonality to the speakers. It suits me just fine and I still fine the highs sparkling and crystalline as needed.

As to the ML subs, they appear to be the newest versions of the Dynamo (and I think you indicated as much in your original post), which is interesting to me because, as you point out, they are reasonably-priced (and less than the Abyss 10 which I've been considering). One thing which has been troubling me about the Abyss is the passive radiators (as opposed to the direct, front-firing of the Dynamos), as I am unsure as to their value or effect. So intrigued to learn that the Dynamos are working for you.

Finally, in regard to your maintenance tips. You're forcing me to reveal my dirty little secret: While it is true that I am the original owner and that I'm using the Model 3s today, some 43 years later, the truth is that they were boxed away for 38 years (yes, you read that right). They only saw use - and limited use at that - during the first 5 years, then boxed away until ... 2 weeks ago. Short explanation: Our own kids followed by my wife's home-based babysitting business (followed by a period of post-retirement inertia). Almost as a lark, without expectations, I dug them out a couple of weeks ago and - lo and behold - they seem to be in good shape and working well. That said, I can't really comment on the interfaces and, more generally, I suspect your comments apply. At this point, I'm reluctant to mess with what is currently a good thing, but the reality of their age may be lurking down the road. I'm absolutely loving the sound at the moment but I'll keep your tips handy.

 

[Cue Stat]

Cue Stat,
We must be “brothers from another mother”: I bought my electrostats in 1989 or 1990.
(I too am the original and only owner.) When I first heard them, I couldn’t believe that such purity and transparency existed in electronically reproduced music. When listening to these speakers at a dealer, I felt like I was in the studio or concert hall with the musicians. I fell in love with them immediately.
I have never looked back or at another pair of speakers since.

I agree with much of what Mendel stated above. Stereo subs are the way to go. Smaller drivers tend to be faster and tighter. Sealed subs also, not ported. A high pass crossover will help your Acoustats to play better, smoother, and with more refinement. (There are some good add-on crossover units out there.) Physical alignment with stands will also help the integration. Fortunately, my Martin Logan CLS panels do not have cloth covers.

Before I bought the ML Depth sub, I resisted adding a sub—thinking that the extra cables and circuitry could detract from the transparency I loved so much. Nope, I was wrong. I experienced no loss of transparency and gained much in terms of smoothness, fullness, and soundstage information. Everything is better.

Take care and happy hunting,
hoodjem

Hoodjem, unless your MLs "enjoyed" a lengthy hiatus, if you refer to my response to Mendel above (or is that below, not sure), I took a liberty in how I've framed my usage of my Acoustats. Original owner yes, but they were boxed up and put away for 38 years, believe it or not, and only brought back into service recently. So while I've been a steadfast owner, perhaps I haven't been as loyal an owner as you, having stashed my precious 'stats away for a very extended period of time. I'm not sure whether I'm living on borrowed time, so to speak, but for the present moment, I'm absolutely thrilled to have them back in service (and, at risk of making myself look foolish, have been silently thanking by circa-1982-83 self (oh, to be that young again) over and over again for having made such a wise choice).

 

[Mendel]

Mendel:

Appreciate the pic. Have never seen the post-Hafler-sale interface before, with that useful switch to which you refer. I have the MK-121 interface (circa '82 or '83) - no switch to cut off lower frequencies, but with a dial-style switch to adjust high frequencies (which I don't think I've ever used or, if I did, it was a long time ago).

I also appreciate your comments about tailoring the bass to suit the upper end, which is to say, to avoid going too low so as to cause an unnatural relationship with the rolled-off highs (although I note your use of a super-tweeter which suggests to me that you may be younger than me or, in any event, have better hearing than I do, heheheh). I like the roll-off, although perhaps some might argue it lends a 'dark' tonality to the speakers. It suits me just fine and I still fine the highs sparkling and crystalline as needed.

As to the ML subs, they appear to be the newest versions of the Dynamo (and I think you indicated as much in your original post), which is interesting to me because, as you point out, they are reasonably-priced (and less than the Abyss 10 which I've been considering). One thing which has been troubling me about the Abyss is the passive radiators (as opposed to the direct, front-firing of the Dynamos), as I am unsure as to their value or effect. So intrigued to learn that the Dynamos are working for you.

Finally, in regard to your maintenance tips. You're forcing me to reveal my dirty little secret: While it is true that I am the original owner and that I'm using the Model 3s today, some 43 years later, the truth is that they were boxed away for 38 years (yes, you read that right). They only saw use - and limited use at that - during the first 5 years, then boxed away until ... 2 weeks ago. Short explanation: Our own kids followed by my wife's home-based babysitting business (followed by a period of post-retirement inertia). Almost as a lark, without expectations, I dug them out a couple of weeks ago and - lo and behold - they seem to be in good shape and working well. That said, I can't really comment on the interfaces and, more generally, I suspect your comments apply. At this point, I'm reluctant to mess with what is currently a good thing, but the reality of their age may be lurking down the road. I'm absolutely loving the sound at the moment but I'll keep your tips handy.

Hey Cue Stat, if it sounds good to you then it is good! Just wanted to let you know that Acoustats can be taken to another level if you ever want to go there.
I choose the Dynamo 10 (2024) over the Abyss because I didn’t want the passive radiators, which are really just a fancy version of a ported sub. I haven’t heard them so they may be great, but I wanted a sealed box sub. The higher end balance force subs are probably perfect for stats, but I didn’t want to spend that much (on this experiment).
The speakers only cost me $1K when I bought them used 11 years ago plus $700 for the modified interfaces. I still see many Acoustat models (including model 3/4, Acoustat X and Spectra 22 and 33) for under $2K. The price is a joke for the performance you get!
You did the right thing digging yours out of storage. All time classic speakers.

 

[Cue Stat]

Hey Cue Stat, if it sounds good to you then it is good! Just wanted to let you know that Acoustats can be taken to another level if you ever want to go there.
I choose the Dynamo 10 (2024) over the Abyss because I didn’t want the passive radiators, which are really just a fancy version of a ported sub. I haven’t heard them so they may be great, but I wanted a sealed box sub. The higher end balance force subs are probably perfect for stats, but I didn’t want to spend that much (on this experiment).
The speakers only cost me $1K when I bought them used 11 years ago plus $700 for the modified interfaces. I still see many Acoustat models (including model 3/4, Acoustat X and Spectra 22 and 33) for under $2K. The price is a joke for the performance you get!
You did the right thing digging yours out of storage. All time classic speakers.

Thank you, Mendel, for the further reply. You mentioned you’re in Canada, so I’m wondering whether, if perchance you’re in Ontario, you feel comfortable identifying the technician who brought your interfaces up to date (either publicly or via private conversation). If you’re not in Ontario or don’t feel comfortable sharing the info, that’s perfectly okay, of course. As mentioned, there does not appear to be any immediate need for such servicing, but given their age, and what you’ve pointed out, such a need may arise sooner rather than later. I’m unsure as to etiquette in regard to private conversations, but you have my permission to initiate one if that’s the way you’d prefer to go.

p.s. I re-read your original post more carefully. I hope and trust you’re doing well health-wise. While I haven’t had any pointed health concerns, I’m at an age where I, too, am feeling that I don’t want to wait around before getting the fullest enjoyment out of my system, especially having neglected things for so long.

 

[Mendel]

Cue Stat,
My interfaces were rebuilt by the late, great Dan Santoni in Hamilton who left this world way too soon!
Any good tech should be able to do the job when the time comes.
I’m doing OK now, had to have a big operation but it’s behind me now. Thanks for asking.

 

[hoodjem]

Hoodjem, unless your MLs "enjoyed" a lengthy hiatus, if you refer to my response to Mendel above (or is that below, not sure), I took a liberty in how I've framed my usage of my Acoustats. Original owner yes, but they were boxed up and put away for 38 years, believe it or not, and only brought back into service recently. So while I've been a steadfast owner, perhaps I haven't been as loyal an owner as you, having stashed my precious 'stats away for a very extended period of time. I'm not sure whether I'm living on borrowed time, so to speak, but for the present moment, I'm absolutely thrilled to have them back in service (and, at risk of making myself look foolish, have been silently thanking by circa-1982-83 self (oh, to be that young again) over and over again for having made such a wise choice).

Cue Stat,
Whoa! No, I have not had my electrostats in storage for 38 years! The longest was two years while I was residing in Albania. They seemed to have suffered no harm.

Good for you. I am sure it is gratifying to have them back in service. Like you, I am getting on in years, such that it makes little sense to put off (important and enjoyable) things to the future.

As Mendel mentioned above, I do the hairdryer treatment every couple of months or so, and the vacuum cleaner treatment about once every year.

P.S.
I’m not sure if you are using 38-year-old cables, but I might offer that cable technology has made a lot of gains in the last 38 years. My previous speaker cables were, I believed, quite good. But I have recently switched to OCC copper speaker cables for some definitely positive improvements. Once you arrive at your subwoofer destination, you might consider researching some newer speaker cables to enhance your lovely Acoustats.

 

[Cue Stat]

While I do have the original cables that I purchased with the Acoustats when new, I haven’t been using them (can’t at the amp end, at least not without some disassembly and modification, as they have fixed-end bananas that are spaced okay for the acoustats but too close together for today’s amps. I realize this can be an incendiary topic, but so far I’ve chosen what might be considered low-end, if respectable, speaker cables (Blue Jean Canare config). So a contemporary choice but perhaps not what is considered ‘best’ even by those reluctant to shell out astronomical dollars for cables. Which is a long way of saying that I made a practical choice, not really knowing much about the contemporary cable marketplace.

Your comments are apropos, however, as I WAS using different 40+ year-old cable until quite recently. Cable “inherited” from my father-in-law who bought his system in the early ‘80s around the same time I purchased the Acoustats. Very ancient and a poor choice, but, well, free. The Blue Jean were an improvement (but, in fairness, I’m pretty sure there were age-related problems with the ones I was using, so maybe anything would have been a step-up).

 

[hoodjem]

Just asking.
All in good time.
It definitely sounds like finding new subs are the top priority right now.
Take care.