Pretty difficult for us to have an opinion on this youtoob video Ked , after all you nor i own this kind of setup, Maybe the owner will chime in and fill in the blanks ..!



Regards
 
Hi Ron,

Congratulations on the new cartridge! When enjoying vinyl, which of the two tonearm cartridges do you prefer? I also observed that the black o-ring, typically situated in the center of the platter, is missing. Is this intentional?
Thank you!

That stock Brinkmann washer cannot be used if I use the Dalby record weight.
 
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If you ask this question in an audio forum you will get many different conflicting opinions ... ;)

Unfortunately the links that I consider the reference on the subject are not active anymore: https://richardhess.com/notes/2006/03/24/demagnetizing-recorders-and-heads/

I know I downloaded these pdf's, but they are in a computer I can't access in the next days.

MRL advised to demagnetize the machine before using their callibration tapes and Studer included a demagnetizer in the A80 tool box, I use it!

Perhaps BruceC can chime on the subject.
Has tape head demagnetization been more thoroughly discussed here? I spoke to one very knowledgeable person who said not to bother; maybe every 5 years of (in home, not pro) use. This is for a brand new machine with a modern and new playback head.
 
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Hi Ron
Fantastic system.
I am at point of getting my AC power fixed and was wondering of you could briefly mention what you use ?

I have 3 separate 8AWG lines on 240v circuit and 3 Gigawatt automatic Fuses but I believe I need some sort of Cleaning . There is about 3.9 % harmonics and Flicker in my power lines. Also the 15th harmonics is very significant. Not sure why.
Unfortunately StromeTank 5000 calmed the sound to much so I sold it and balanced trafos are not ideal solution.
Are you using Torus or something else?
How do you judge the difference before/ after.
Thank you
Kris
 
Hi Ron
Fantastic system.
I am at point of getting my AC power fixed and was wondering of you could briefly mention what you use ?

I have 3 separate 8AWG lines on 240v circuit and 3 Gigawatt automatic Fuses but I believe I need some sort of Cleaning . There is about 3.9 % harmonics and Flicker in my power lines. Also the 15th harmonics is very significant. Not sure why.
Unfortunately StromeTank 5000 calmed the sound to much so I sold it and balanced trafos are not ideal solution.
Are you using Torus or something else?
How do you judge the difference before/ after.
Thank you
Kris

I don't use any power devices, because I don't think I have an electrical problem.

People have personal and subjective opinions about the sonic effects of different kinds of AC power products on their audio systems. I think the only intellectually honest thing that can be said is that there is no way to tell in advance what will be the sonic effects of power regeneration versus isolation transformer versus balanced power versus passive noise suppression versus battery power on a particular audio system as perceived by a particular audiophile's ears.

No rule of general applicability can be formulated. Which power device, if any, is "best" will be very idiosyncratic and will depend on each audiophile's particular mains power voltage stability and variance situation, ambient EMI environment, audio system components and personal sonic preferences.

In setting up a new audio system I assumed that I wanted either a PS Audio regenerator or an isolation transformer/balanced power device for my turntable power supply, phono stage and line stage preamplifier. I compared a PS Audio regenerator to an Equi-Tech device on a friend's familiar system. See https://whatsbestforum.com/threads/equi-tech-2rq-versus-ps-audio-p10.30215/

The sonic effects of each of these devices on my friend's system were very audibly different. Which sonic effects were "correct"?

That comparison experience left me so perplexed that I have decided to put together my new system, at least initially, with no AC power devices at all.

If you listen to a live classical music I would judge based on which sound most reminds you most closely of the sound of live, unamplified music.
 
I don't use any power devices, because I don't think I have an electrical problem.

People have personal and subjective opinions about the sonic effects of different kinds of AC power products on their audio systems. I think the only intellectually honest thing that can be said is that there is no way to tell in advance what will be the sonic effects of power regeneration versus isolation transformer versus balanced power versus passive noise suppression versus battery power on a particular audio system as perceived by a particular audiophile's ears.

No rule of general applicability can be formulated. Which power device, if any, is "best" will be very idiosyncratic and will depend on each audiophile's particular mains power voltage stability and variance situation, ambient EMI environment, audio system components and personal sonic preferences.

In setting up a new audio system I assumed that I wanted either a PS Audio regenerator or an isolation transformer/balanced power device for my turntable power supply, phono stage and line stage preamplifier. I compared a PS Audio regenerator to an Equi-Tech device on a friend's familiar system. See https://whatsbestforum.com/threads/equi-tech-2rq-versus-ps-audio-p10.30215/

The sonic effects of each of these devices on my friend's system were very audibly different. Which sonic effects were "correct"?

That comparison experience left me so perplexed that I have decided to put together my new system, at least initially, with no AC power devices at all.

If you listen to a live classical music I would judge based on which sound most reminds you most closely of the sound of live, unamplified music.
Thank you Ron
I had similar issues when I build my room 8 years ago. I tested things in others systems but nothing was " good enough"
So than I purchesed few other things over last few years and ended with good thick AC wires dedicated just for my system..
2 lines for monoblocks
1 line gor all other things
But I get back to it as sometimes the system sounds much worse then normally.

Some people are very happy living with big WM Torus isolation transformers so I was hoping to get more opinions about it.
Some have very good results with PS20.

I know now how important is good power quality as I can't stop listening at 1 AM.
All I wanted is that kind of quality all day long. There is no permanent and universal solution for that.
 
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I don't use any power devices, because I don't think I have an electrical problem.

People have personal and subjective opinions about the sonic effects of different kinds of AC power products on their audio systems. I think the only intellectually honest thing that can be said is that there is no way to tell in advance what will be the sonic effects of power regeneration versus isolation transformer versus balanced power versus passive noise suppression versus battery power on a particular audio system as perceived by a particular audiophile's ears.

No rule of general applicability can be formulated. Which power device, if any, is "best" will be very idiosyncratic and will depend on each audiophile's particular mains power voltage stability and variance situation, ambient EMI environment, audio system components and personal sonic preferences.

In setting up a new audio system I assumed that I wanted either a PS Audio regenerator or an isolation transformer/balanced power device for my turntable power supply, phono stage and line stage preamplifier. I compared a PS Audio regenerator to an Equi-Tech device on a friend's familiar system. See https://whatsbestforum.com/threads/equi-tech-2rq-versus-ps-audio-p10.30215/

The sonic effects of each of these devices on my friend's system were very audibly different. Which sonic effects were "correct"?

That comparison experience left me so perplexed that I have decided to put together my new system, at least initially, with no AC power devices at all.

If you listen to a live classical music I would judge based on which sound most reminds you most closely of the sound of live, unamplified music.
Hi Ron,

Really agree to your answer here, as I think is one of the best and true answer I’ve read in a long time.

I don’t use any power conditioner either, as I get the feeling that the livelynees disappears and the sound gets very ”closed in”, and dull and comfused.

I have had some serious issues on my powerline as well, similar to what @Kris wrote, with very anoying harmonics, making my amps go buzzing like wasp’s in the audioroom from time to time. I have really digged into this, and found that it’s not very uncommon with bad connection on the incomming powerline main fuses, with oxid BEHIND the fuses on to the power rails. ( Not the first place you look if not the fuses break, but can actually play a huge part in bad sound!!) If you have ceramic main fuses, -try to have a good electrician to help….

(”OBS” - as you should NOT try this your self without good knowledge of electric power ”OBS”)!!!

- Cut the power, take out the fuses, check so everything is very clean on the power rails, no oxid, and no black dark weld marks, due to bad connection… if so.. clean this off with fine steel cloth, spray with DeOxit D5 cleaning spray, then put on DeOxit Gold, change fuses and fuse hoods. When put back.. make sure to tight the fuses really really tight.

Then feel all the screws in the breaker box, so they are not loose, but really really thightend. Make sure all the neutral and earth/ground connections are screwed very very tight.

If you have an earth fault breaker installed - try to have your stereo system connected without the EFB.

If you have automatic main fuses - One trick can actually be to just change them to new ones, as the relay on heat or magnetism to break the fuse, and some parts inside the automatic fuses can be worn.

My recommendation to use good electrician when doing this can’t be any higher!!

Since christmas, I have tried four different brands of power conditioners myself, and non of them has improved the sound. Shunyata Denali, AudioQuest Niagara-7000, PS-Audio P12, Torus Power AVR-16. The one that performed the best without a doubt was the Torus AVR-16, making my equipment really silent, but cutting the livelyness in sound. When plugging my power cables back into my dedicated power lines, without any conditioner - It sounded much better, and much more live again…

After me cleaning and checking EVERYTHING in my incomming powerlines, change worn old parts to new ones, my system is really silent, and sounds very good again. But it has been a PITA to find the main cause to this issue. I’m still awaiting a few more spare parts to my breaker / fuse panel, so more improvement is around the corner here…

Hope this helped - if not thought of before.

/ Jk


IMG_9479.jpegIMG_9712.jpegIMG_9853.jpegIMG_9854.jpeg
 
I am glad you figured it out, Johan!
 
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Hi Ron,

Really agree to your answer here, as I think is one of the best and true answer I’ve read in a long time.

I don’t use any power conditioner either, as I get the feeling that the livelynees disappears and the sound gets very ”closed in”, and dull and comfused.

I have had some serious issues on my powerline as well, similar to what @Kris wrote, with very anoying harmonics, making my amps go buzzing like wasp’s in the audioroom from time to time. I have really digged into this, and found that it’s not very uncommon with bad connection on the incomming powerline main fuses, with oxid BEHIND the fuses on to the power rails. ( Not the first place you look if not the fuses break, but can actually play a huge part in bad sound!!) If you have ceramic main fuses, -try to have a good electrician to help….

(”OBS” - as you should NOT try this your self without good knowledge of electric power ”OBS”)!!!

- Cut the power, take out the fuses, check so everything is very clean on the power rails, no oxid, and no black dark weld marks, due to bad connection… if so.. clean this off with fine steel cloth, spray with DeOxit D5 cleaning spray, then put on DeOxit Gold, change fuses and fuse hoods. When put back.. make sure to tight the fuses really really tight.

Then feel all the screws in the breaker box, so they are not loose, but really really thightend. Make sure all the neutral and earth/ground connections are screwed very very tight.

If you have an earth fault breaker installed - try to have your stereo system connected without the EFB.

If you have automatic main fuses - One trick can actually be to just change them to new ones, as the relay on heat or magnetism to break the fuse, and some parts inside the automatic fuses can be worn.

My recommendation to use good electrician when doing this can’t be any higher!!

Since christmas, I have tried four different brands of power conditioners myself, and non of them has improved the sound. Shunyata Denali, AudioQuest Niagara-7000, PS-Audio P12, Torus Power AVR-16. The one that performed the best without a doubt was the Torus AVR-16, making my equipment really silent, but cutting the livelyness in sound. When plugging my power cables back into my dedicated power lines, without any conditioner - It sounded much better, and much more live again…

After me cleaning and checking EVERYTHING in my incomming powerlines, change worn old parts to new ones, my system is really silent, and sounds very good again. But it has been a PITA to find the main cause to this issue. I’m still awaiting a few more spare parts to my breaker / fuse panel, so more improvement is around the corner here…

Hope this helped - if not thought of before.

/ Jk


View attachment 124532View attachment 124533View attachment 124534View attachment 124535

Thanks for sharing all this details.
I will look for those things.
Also it looks we have identical SQ taste in regards to air and liveliness .
This is the only thing I cant listen without.
 
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Thanks for sharing all this details.
I will look for those things.
Also it looks we have identical SQ taste in regards to air and liveliness .
This is the only thing I cant listen without.
Hi Kris,

I forgot to mention:
You say you have all these noices and harmonics coming in to your system. Is the noice coming through your speakers, or do you have issues with noice and buzz/hum coming from your components transformers?

One way is to try to logg these events, try to find what is causing this. Many air-conditioners, or heater / boilers can cause these problems, frequence controled pool pumps and so forth. LED-lights, electric inverters from either solar panels or the inverters charging electric cars is another big issues these days. But there is things to use to prevent these apparatus to send reactive current back to the power grid.

If you find the problem within your house / appartment, you can definitely put a net-filter on to e.g. your heater / boiler that will act as a ”check-valve” to prevent any leakage going back to your breaker / fuse panel. In that way your system will most likely get more quiet too.

If it is coming from outside your home, from lets say a neighbor two streets away, then it is a more serious problem you need to adress to your local power distributor / company. Even then it can be VERY VERY complex to solve…

Hope this helps a bit more. Good Luck !

Clean power is the foundation to really good sound which I think all audiophiles are entitled too… :D !!

/ Jk
 
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Ron, are you now ameliorating effects upon sound your room lighting and kitchen appliances?

Not to raise dormant nervosa if you have forced them into a lower category. I'm also a bit curious where your assessment of vibration as measured through a higher end TT is currently positioned. More than most you enforce change will register here through preference towards a very limited range of source material.
 
i think it's a mistake to confuse what stand alone 120v/60hz plug in boxes of particular brands do, to what a whole system 3 phase/220v built in isolation transformer/distribution panel scaled for lots of system headroom might do. the additional weight and authority of the larger scale units contribute change the sonic equation. and these type installations can allow for the whole system to be connected completely. these are combined with proper wall wire and switch plate tech too. and even a proper separated ground rod where code allows it.

not pooh, poohing the stand alone box compare at all, just that it is a different thing altogether. there are different choices for whole system large scale isolation too, and that is a separate subject from stand alone boxes. some people just want a conventional solid breaker panel and conventional house wire and outlet boxes, which is where i started. i do think it is important to have a clear starting point to see what causes what. i had 7 years with my conventional approach, before i added my 10kva 10WQ Equi=Tech wall panel, and still have conventional 'dirty' power outlets (connected to a separate 'dirty' panel) around my room for a reference whenever i need to check.
 
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People certainly use different approaches to solve specific issues. I started with conventional panel, wire, and outlets. Then I tried audiophile/recording studio in wall cables bypassing outlets and directly connecting gear to panel. Then various stand along boxes while speaking to people about large wall panels solutions. They had varying results. I ended up with a fairly conventional audio main panel/breaker/dedicated circuits, new house sub panel configuration, new grounding, new, very specific industrial in house wiring and industrial outlets. The result from this new power delivery made a huge difference toward a more natural/realistic presentation from my audio system, particularly in the bass in terms of weight, clarity, and impact. Noise was already low, and remains so with my very efficient system.

I suppose I am lucky that my neighborhood consists of very old, relatively small houses where solar panels are prohibited and no one has electric cars to plug in 24/7 creating new and noisy demand on the local grid. Power seems very stable.

I think Ron gave this area significant consideration during his room build out and house renovation project. He seems very happy with the result.
 
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i think it's a mistake to confuse what stand alone 120v/60hz plug in boxes of particular brands do, to what a whole system 3 phase/220v built in isolation transformer/distribution panel scaled for lots of system headroom might do. the additional weight and authority of the larger scale units contribute change the sonic equation. and these type installations can allow for the whole system to be connected completely. these are combined with proper wall wire and switch plate tech too. and even a proper separated ground rod where code allows it.

not pooh, poohing the stand alone box compare at all, just that it is a different thing altogether. there are different choices for whole system large scale isolation too, and that is a separate subject from stand alone boxes. some people just want a conventional solid breaker panel and conventional house wire and outlet boxes, which is where i started. i do think it is important to have a clear starting point to see what causes what. i had 7 years with my conventional approach, before i added my 10kva 10WQ Equi=Tech wall panel, and still have conventional 'dirty' power outlets (connected to a separate 'dirty' panel) around my room for a reference whenever i need to check.
Hi Mike,

I agree to this, as long as a big wall mounted transformer / breaker box don’t mess up the sound. My approach has always been a powerful dedicated power line 3x20A / 230V, with separat ground rod, without a transformer conditioner. I have had some issues last year but have actually solve them, and my system is very quiet and have a big power headroom. But lately I’ve been thinking more and more of a wall mounted transformer panel, as the bad dirty power gets more worse every year.

I know that you are always in the forfront of highend audio gear… so I wonder, what is your take on Torus Power Wall Mount panel vs. your own Equi=Tech? I guess they pretty much do the same thing…?! Do you know of any sonic differences?

As I had the Torus Power AVR-16 here for test last weekend I could hear big difference in sound in all areas… and it was not for the better unfortunately… so I’m a bit concern…

/ Jk
 
Hi Mike,

I agree to this, as long as a big wall mounted transformer / breaker box don’t mess up the sound. My approach has always been a powerful dedicated power line 3x20A / 230V, with separat ground rod, without a transformer conditioner. I have had some issues last year but have actually solve them, and my system is very quiet and have a big power headroom. But lately I’ve been thinking more and more of a wall mounted transformer panel, as the bad dirty power gets more worse every year.

I know that you are always in the forfront of highend audio gear… so I wonder, what is your take on Torus Power Wall Mount panel vs. your own Equi=Tech? I guess they pretty much do the same thing…?! Do you know of any sonic differences?

As I had the Torus Power AVR-16 here for test last weekend I could hear big difference in sound in all areas… and it was not for the better unfortunately… so I’m a bit concern…

/ Jk
i don't know the levels of Torus products; but my opinion is that the higher level whole system Torus products are equivalent to the highest level Equi=tech products. it would be difficult to do a useful compare of the two considering both are built into the structure.

they are both doing similar things with a little difference in design philosophy.
 
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i don't know the levels of Torus products; but my opinion is that the higher level whole system Torus products are equivalent to the highest level Equi=tech products. it would be difficult to do a useful compare of the two considering both are built into the structure.

they are both doing similar things with a little difference in design philosophy.
Thank you. The ONE answer I needed. A friend of mine has a Torus WM and is very very happy about it. He told me, he felt a big upgrade in sound, so that’s kind of cool. I just emailed my dealer for an offert of a Torus WM, done to my specifications.

This will be interesting…

/ Jk
 
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