And Bruce, just how are your cojones?That is surely going to be and amazing Music room alright Ron-kudos to the thought and effort it will be something else I'm certain!
If I may add a suggestion that may --or not be of some assistance on your existing choice of Floor.
In the distant past I was tasked with setting up a Pair of X-1 Slamms in a residence in Laurel Canyon Boulevard--with highly polished Floors
The lady( read Dragon!) of the house made it perfectly clear my G**nads would be garters if I so much as hairline marked the Floor
I felt the Wilson Castors would be out of the question and too big risk so here's my take and what I decided was the best course of action
Fluffy Bathmats-- the shaggy pinkies with the "Rubberised" bottoms-- I placed the disassembled units on each of ones these --with the Fluffy side
DOWN and the Rubberside UP
So reassembled Speakers now sit on the RUBBER with the Fluffy on the Floor and can be slid smoothly and silently around.--
I found much easier rather than the castors plus no tyremarks/etc and piece of cake to set with the Spikes(then)-simply tilt Speaker slightly
push Mat under out of way of spike placement-- with bases of course--same on other side. I found it worked very well.
Just thought may be a consideration.
Anyway I lived to fight another day--
Good Listening,
BruceD
Ron's Speaker, Turntable, Power and Room Treatment Upgrades
- Thread starter Ron Resnick
- Start date
That is surely going to be and amazing Music room alright Ron-kudos to the thought and effort it will be something else I'm certain
If I may add a suggestion that may --or not be of some assistance on your existing choice of Floor.
In the distant past I was tasked with setting up a Pair of X-1 Slamms in a residence in Laurel Canyon Boulevard--with highly polished Floors
The lady( read Dragon!) of the house made it perfectly clear my G**nads would be garters if I so much as hairline marked the Floor
I felt the Wilson Castors would be out of the question and too big risk so here's my take and what I decided was the best course of action
Fluffy Bathmats-- the shaggy pinkies with the "Rubberised" bottoms-- I placed the disassembled units on each of ones these --with the Fluffy side
DOWN and the Rubberside UP
So reassembled Speakers now sit on the RUBBER with the Fluffy on the Floor and can be slid smoothly and silently around.--
I found much easier rather than the castors plus no tyremarks/etc and piece of cake to set with the Spikes(then)-simply tilt Speaker slightly
push Mat under out of way of spike placement-- with bases of course--same on other side. I found it worked very well.
Just thought may be a consideration.
Anyway I lived to fight another day--
Good Listening,
BruceD
Perfect idea! Adopted for the four speaker towers and the 200 pound amps!
Thank you!
That is surely going to be and amazing Music room alright Ron-kudos to the thought and effort it will be something else I'm certain
If I may add a suggestion that may --or not be of some assistance on your existing choice of Floor.
In the distant past I was tasked with setting up a Pair of X-1 Slamms in a residence in Laurel Canyon Boulevard--with highly polished Floors
The lady( read Dragon!) of the house made it perfectly clear my G**nads would be garters if I so much as hairline marked the Floor
I felt the Wilson Castors would be out of the question and too big risk so here's my take and what I decided was the best course of action
Fluffy Bathmats-- the shaggy pinkies with the "Rubberised" bottoms-- I placed the disassembled units on each of ones these --with the Fluffy side
DOWN and the Rubberside UP
So reassembled Speakers now sit on the RUBBER with the Fluffy on the Floor and can be slid smoothly and silently around.--
I found much easier rather than the castors plus no tyremarks/etc and piece of cake to set with the Spikes(then)-simply tilt Speaker slightly
push Mat under out of way of spike placement-- with bases of course--same on other side. I found it worked very well.
Just thought may be a consideration.
Anyway I lived to fight another day--
Good Listening,
BruceD
i used 'shag' carpet remnants turned upside down in the same fashion for my MM7 towers to move around my wood floors. and you likely have carpet remnants sitting around (that can be cut to size) and are more solidly constructed than bathroom bath mats. carpet remnants are almost indestructible......conversely they are not as pliable to remove being stiffer. but it's not hard to remove them. the stiction of the rubber backing of the bath mats has advantages and disadvantages.
one significant advantage of the carpet remnants is when you first tilt up the speaker the weight of the edge of the speaker could crease the wood floor through the bath mat. the toughness of the carpet remnant backing should prevent that. maybe a work around to that issue but maybe not. maybe you double up the bath mat or add a towel to deal with that.
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Well I suppose they will be worth something when I cark it--my doc says they now include "pearls"
?BruceD
Not very attractive as jewellery thoughWell I suppose they will be worth something when I cark it--my doc says they now include "pearls"
BruceD
Enlighten me please i have only heard of the prince Al....Not very attractive as jewellery though
Ladies- let us not corrupt Ron's Thread --back on course please --sorry for my digression
BruceD
BruceD
The self censorship is strong tonight!Ladies- let us not corrupt Ron's Thread --back on course please --sorry for my digression
BruceD
May the force be with you Bruce
Some progress with the refinishing back to natural walnut and sealing . . .
Way better Ron
We have the most beautiful original panelled wood 35x30 ceiling, and one quarter height (ie 5' of 20') original wood wainscoting...absolutely makes the main space.
We have the most beautiful original panelled wood 35x30 ceiling, and one quarter height (ie 5' of 20') original wood wainscoting...absolutely makes the main space.
That is good news Ron and it looks very good.
Do you plan to install diffusors/bass traps to combat any unwelcome reflections from the panels?
Thank you very much, gentlemen.
David, I used a thin polyurethane product from Germany with no hardener. It seems to leave the wood looking and feeling very natural with no reflection or sheen or shiny coating. It seems quite un-polyurethane like.
I was reluctant to use oil, because I was afraid of changing/darkening the color of the natural wood in any way.
Also, this is the same product which, with hardener, will go on all of the floors.
David, I used a thin polyurethane product from Germany with no hardener. It seems to leave the wood looking and feeling very natural with no reflection or sheen or shiny coating. It seems quite un-polyurethane like.
I was reluctant to use oil, because I was afraid of changing/darkening the color of the natural wood in any way.
Also, this is the same product which, with hardener, will go on all of the floors.
Only to excite audiophiles of the AC power-oriented variety, here is a photo of the covered audio room subpanel:
Those conduits distribute power to outlets on the front wall of the listening room (to the right), and to outlets all the way across the listening room on a diagonal to the adjacent front-end equipment room next door.
Both 120VAC and 240VAC (for very high current drawing amplifiers or subwoofers, or for powering Torus Power balanced power devices which are balanced on the input side) are distributed.
Those conduits distribute power to outlets on the front wall of the listening room (to the right), and to outlets all the way across the listening room on a diagonal to the adjacent front-end equipment room next door.
Both 120VAC and 240VAC (for very high current drawing amplifiers or subwoofers, or for powering Torus Power balanced power devices which are balanced on the input side) are distributed.
Very impressive.
a quick glance and thought it was a Pipe Organ.
a quick glance and thought it was a Pipe Organ.
In Michael Fremer's 2014 review of the VTL Siegfried II I found this observation about triode mode. I excerpt it here because the impression is how I felt about triode mode on my VTL MB-750 amplifier (which is not to suggest that Michael would feel the same way about the MB-750, because the Siegfried II is, I am sure, more transparent and more neutral):
"For solo string performances, small acoustic ensembles, or singers, particularly women, the big Siegfried IIs in triode mode attained much of the delicacy, purity, and speed I normally associate with low-powered, single-ended-triode tube amplifiers. If I owned the Siegfrieds, I'd mostly leave them in tetrode mode, and reserve triode mode for special occasions such as those listed above. But this is a matter of musical taste; no doubt some would leave them parked in triode all the time."
https://www.stereophile.com/content/vtl-siegfried-series-ii-reference-monoblock-power-amplifier
"For solo string performances, small acoustic ensembles, or singers, particularly women, the big Siegfried IIs in triode mode attained much of the delicacy, purity, and speed I normally associate with low-powered, single-ended-triode tube amplifiers. If I owned the Siegfrieds, I'd mostly leave them in tetrode mode, and reserve triode mode for special occasions such as those listed above. But this is a matter of musical taste; no doubt some would leave them parked in triode all the time."
https://www.stereophile.com/content/vtl-siegfried-series-ii-reference-monoblock-power-amplifier
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