No bad thing considering the scarcity and commensurate price of genuine NOS, or really good used valves .This tubes runs 30 years without problems,
No bad thing considering the scarcity and commensurate price of genuine NOS, or really good used valves .This tubes runs 30 years without problems,
it is german post tubes, they are trimmed for longevity if you don't squeeze them out for maximum poweroutput last a lifetime. ten years ago they were really expensive 700€ per tube nos unplayed today they are cheaper. Thank God..No bad thing considering the scarcity and commensurate price of genuine NOS, or really good used valves .
Thats great for current amplifier owners … They must have reached a high water mark back when I was acquiring them .. maybe 10-12 years back …ten years ago they were really expensive 700€ per tube nos unplayed today they are cheaper. Thank God..
It seems that this is a PP amplifier. The PP amplifier is easier to make silent.A klangfilm v 402 amp is a masterpiece, learning from the past how to build a good dead quiet amp. These guys know exactly how to do exsample.
Yes, I just wanted to show how good construction looks as exsample. and not, as is usually the case today, with a circuit board layout.It seems that this is a PP amplifier. The PP amplifier is easier to make silent.
It was easier then, tubes were not in short supply, so soft-start and electronic bias were not done, there was no remote control, etc. And it is difficult to do without PCB and it is not necessary.Yes, I just wanted to show how good construction looks as exsample. and not, as is usually the case today, with a circuit board layout.
nevertheless good sounding amplifiers no worse than set amps. musically from the first note of the music
Why are you so married to this Audion amp that seems to cause problems? Just try another SET…there are several quite good ones out there.I was told my circuit is not making the noise. Maybe I will find the time to make a breadboard and set the amp on it, then maybe have someone build up a new PS and tie it onto the existing amp and see what happens.
I guess its hard to throw away $12,000. Its the hum that bothers me. Not the tone. I have a lot of tools. If I can make a normal case and drop the parts onto it, then have someone make a $500 power supply, I may be able to rid the issue. I hope. Or I have wasted $12,500.Why are you so married to this Audion amp that seems to cause problems? Just try another SET…there are several quite good ones out there.
It can buzz not only because of the power supply. Improper ground connections also cause buzzing. Bad PSU gives 100Hz hum, ground hums like 50Hz (in Europe).I guess its hard to throw away $12,000. Its the hum that bothers me. Not the tone. I have a lot of tools. If I can make a normal case and drop the parts onto it, then have someone make a $500 power supply, I may be able to rid the issue. I hope. Or I have wasted $12,500.
You paid a lot. I have seen these amps for far less…or did you buy it new?I guess its hard to throw away $12,000. Its the hum that bothers me. Not the tone. I have a lot of tools. If I can make a normal case and drop the parts onto it, then have someone make a $500 power supply, I may be able to rid the issue. I hope. Or I have wasted $12,500.
I guess its hard to throw away $12,000. Its the hum that bothers me. Not the tone. I have a lot of tools. If I can make a normal case and drop the parts onto it, then have someone make a $500 power supply, I may be able to rid the issue. I hope. Or I have wasted $12,500.
if the hum is coming from the power supply, it's easy to find out. you pull out all the tubes and turn on the amp. if you hear humming in the speaker, this is induced via the output transformer. if not it comes from the circuit maybe a defective coupling capacitor in the stages. a ground loop is often caused by unshielded rca cables or different grounding concepts of the connected devices. in rare cases interference from mains transformers positioned too close to output transformers or interference from halogen lamps (transformers).I was told my circuit is not making the noise. Maybe I will find the time to make a breadboard and set the amp on it, then maybe have someone build up a new PS and tie it onto the existing amp and see what happens.
Seems like at that point let the builder use the iron and parts they like, otherwise it could end with a conversation like " doesn't sound great but did what I could with those parts you gave me".. Basically I would be handing some iron and sockets to an engineer and saying, make me an amp. Which Ken of Soundgate said he would do. But, what do I end up with.
Where did you get this amp? If used I can sort of see that you got stuck. But if its new, the manufacturer has a warranty, right??I guess its hard to throw away $12,000. Its the hum that bothers me. Not the tone. I have a lot of tools. If I can make a normal case and drop the parts onto it, then have someone make a $500 power supply, I may be able to rid the issue. I hope. Or I have wasted $12,500.
And even if it's out of warranty, good people would want to help you, provided the amp hasn't been abused. Seems like the manufacturer could be a better line to solution than what you are trying to do. Or at least a first step?Where did you get this amp? If used I can sort of see that you got stuck. But if its new, the manufacturer has a warranty, right??
I see now, thank you for straightening me out on what you are up to. When you jump into some of these threads half way you miss the context of what people are saying.that’s not my system, that’s my list of preferred components. My last thing to decide on are a value priced excellent sounding SET amp which is why I started this thread to audition as many as possible.
In the range of Shindo 300b power or Kondo Neiro 2a3 wattage commercially a more neutral amp could be NAF 2a3, something designed by Thomas Mayer, or you find someone local to design you one and you can then get the designer to tweak it till you like it. You can also compare the airtight integrated 300b if you find it used to check how you feel about that against Shindo, in terms of colour vs neutrality.
To be clear, i jumped in sayingthat Shindo was coloured because the discussion at that time was going back and forth on SETs colouration, and you joined the discussion saying you have Shindo and added "Is it accurate? Probably not" to which I replied.
There are 14w GM70 amps from audio detail in the U.K. which are excellent, and customisable…i.e. You could get the transformer or anything you want changed to add parts you want, or get it in stock form. They were better than Kondo Neiro 2a3 and i might do a compare of them with Shindo 300b in the future as the people who open them are approx three hours from each other. He also does others like PX4 and 211. The GM70 tubes are much cheaper than 211 vintage or 300bs.
for preamp I prefer the Thomas Mayer 10y.
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For phono there are many but the Shindo as I said is tough to beat for a one box solution
my objective among other things is to get transparency to recordings, i.e. acoustic music on good recordings should show through with the ambience of the record, and I should feel the change of the concert hall venue with the change in record. I check different record labels to verify this. If someone has objectives to enhance the sound of certain types of music especially with amplified stuff their preference could be different from mine. I don't like constantness across records as it gets boring no matter how good it feels on the first track.
I was not aware of what Dasguteohr said about early Shindo's having a changing sound daily so not sure if the ones I heard had that issue or not.
Sure sounds nice at @jazdoc system, I am really waiting on Scott Sheaffer with Found Music to bring a Blade amp to Seattle for people to hear.