SET amp owners thread

I have an OTL SET headphone amp employing an early '60's Mullard 6DJ8 and a late '50's RCA Grey Plate 6AS7. It powers a set of JVC HA-D990's, and utilizes a Numark EQ for correct frequency response with the Shure replacement pads.

Does this belong in this thread?
 
I have an OTL SET headphone amp employing an early '60's Mullard 6DJ8 and a late '50's RCA Grey Plate 6AS7. It powers a set of JVC HA-D990's, and utilizes a Numark EQ for correct frequency response with the Shure replacement pads.

Does this belong in this thread?
Which headphone amp do you have?
 
I have to back peddle a bit on this Audion Black Shadow 845. I got into the potentiometer and cleaned it with Deoxit. While at it I did the tube pins, speaker jacks, fuse, rca and power inlet. I also changed the speaker cable from Graditech to my Inakustik 2404 AIR. Kind of a holly crap change. For one, the microphonics of the E88CC are gone. The sense of power is much higher. More clean. Good body. I'm really liking this amp. Piano notes hang and decay as they should. The wollyness I heard is most all gone. If I put the Blade back in I would notice it more. But I like the heft and weight of the bottom end. This is a very good amp now. Took long enough. And a pile of cash. In the end I have a amp that performs as I hoped.
 
I have to back peddle a bit on this Audion Black Shadow 845. I got into the potentiometer and cleaned it with Deoxit. While at it I did the tube pins, speaker jacks, fuse, rca and power inlet. I also changed the speaker cable from Graditech to my Inakustik 2404 AIR. Kind of a holly crap change. For one, the microphonics of the E88CC are gone. The sense of power is much higher. More clean. Good body. I'm really liking this amp. Piano notes hang and decay as they should. The wollyness I heard is most all gone. If I put the Blade back in I would notice it more. But I like the heft and weight of the bottom end. This is a very good amp now. Took long enough. And a pile of cash. In the end I have a amp that performs as I hoped.
Glad you got it sorted out! That DeOxit must have some serious MoJo. ;)
 
Glad you got it sorted out! That DeOxit must have some serious MoJo. ;)
That and the Inakustik cable helped bring some forwardness back. As well as add weight and clarity. I was on the phone with a friend. He just got new speaker cable and was putting them in. I dug mine out and put them in too. Very happy.
1 foot from the driver I read 76db. Good level in this room. Using digital. HQ with high rez files. Darn nice.
 
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Sakuma San amp (built by himself, not a DIY based on his design)

 
Since we're pre-Christmas cleaning, what do you guys use to clean corroded (historical) power tube pins, especially also ones that are hollow inside so no liquid should seep in? Thanks in advance!

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
 
That and the Inakustik cable helped bring some forwardness back. As well as add weight and clarity. I was on the phone with a friend. He just got new speaker cable and was putting them in. I dug mine out and put them in too. Very happy.
1 foot from the driver I read 76db. Good level in this room. Using digital. HQ with high rez files. Darn nice.
I use Inakustik interconnects (the silver air reference ones) and digital cable (XLR copper air reference). I don't have their speaker cables but I can imagine that they are very good.

Sounds like a lot of the problems were not the amp per se but oxidation and cable choice. Wonder why you had oxidation issues when the amp had been recently refurbished.
 
Since we're pre-Christmas cleaning, what do you guys use to clean corroded (historical) power tube pins, especially also ones that are hollow inside so no liquid should seep in? Thanks in advance!

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
I use those new-fangled Magic Erasers either wiping the pins or inserting the pins repeatedly. Use Kontak as a lubricant, wipe off, let evaporate and then I wipe with Jena Labs contact enhancer leaving a microscopic film on the pins.

Interdental brushes appear to work for sockets but don’t use too large a size.

Works for me, but at your own risk.
 
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Since we're pre-Christmas cleaning, what do you guys use to clean corroded (historical) power tube pins, especially also ones that are hollow inside so no liquid should seep in? Thanks in advance!

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
Deoxit D100 and G100. Use a Qtip on the pins. Start with D. Clean and let sit for an hour. Then clean with G.
 
Deoxit D100 and G100. Use a Qtip on the pins. Start with D. Clean and let sit for an hour. Then clean with G.
This puts me off the G100
‘. It is the only product that actually penetrates plated surfaces, molecularly bonding to the base metals to seal and protect both surfaces.’
 
I use Inakustik interconnects (the silver air reference ones) and digital cable (XLR copper air reference). I don't have their speaker cables but I can imagine that they are very good.

Sounds like a lot of the problems were not the amp per se but oxidation and cable choice. Wonder why you had oxidation issues when the amp had been recently refurbished.
I doubt they even clean wire before soldering. When my Blade was made, Scott said he polished every wire before soldering.

As far as cleaning speaker jacks, rca, fuses, power inlet, I don't know that is a part of servicing an amp. The first time I had the amp looked at, the tech sent the amps through the mail and never checked the transformer hold down bolts were tight. 2 fell off and 2 were very loose.
In the trade world, I see about 1 per 7 people get it, and care enough to really do it right. The rest are hacks, or have tallent, but dont care.

I like Inakustik. I have the interconnect too. Not in at the moment. I packed a lot of stuff. The interconnect was less a change than the speaker cable. Speaker cable was big qhen I bought it.
 
This puts me off the G100
‘. It is the only product that actually penetrates plated surfaces, molecularly bonding to the base metals to seal and protect both surfaces.’
What do you mean?.
 
Personal system is made up of our MB2A3-SE amplifier driving PAP Trio 15 classics. Amp current has current production Sovtek 2A3 tubes, GE 6SN7 and 5AR5 rectifier.
Whats Classic? Whats the center driver? Voxativ. PAP use to tour with Whammerdyne. A 2A3. Or Pass Labs with 250 watts. Now using a class D with 150 watts.
 
Whats Classic? Whats the center driver? Voxativ. PAP use to tour with Whammerdyne. A 2A3. Or Pass Labs with 250 watts. Now using a class D with 150 watts.
My PAPs have the Standard Voxativ center drivers. I have used everything from 300 watt GaN FET to 3 watts 2A3 with a personal 45 being built. In MY ROOM, I much prefer the lower power tube amps.
 
My PAPs have the Standard Voxativ center drivers. I have used everything from 300 watt GaN FET to 3 watts 2A3 with a personal 45 being built. In MY ROOM, I much prefer the lower power tube amps.
I like tubes on them too. SS sounds flatt to me. Every time I play the PAP, I am surprised how well.they play. I like them as much as any speaker have heard. I do want to try a swarm of subs one day. Pressurize the room. For musical flow and natural sound, PAP play excellent.
 
I like tubes on them too. SS sounds flatt to me. Every time I play the PAP, I am surprised how well.they play. I like them as much as any speaker have heard. I do want to try a swarm of subs one day. Pressurize the room. For musical flow and natural sound, PAP play excellent.
What PAPs do you have? What are you powering them with? I found I do not need a sub. The base is deep and tight. This is the main speaker used to evaluate all our products.
 
Since we're pre-Christmas cleaning, what do you guys use to clean corroded (historical) power tube pins, especially also ones that are hollow inside so no liquid should seep in? Thanks in advance!

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
Deoxit D series. Works best in the spray can; stay away from the non-spray versions. Tube sockets can be contaminated by the carriers used in non-spray contact cleaners- resulting in loss of bandwidth and worse (such as arcing). If that happens the only solution is to replace the socket.
I use those new-fangled Magic Erasers either wiping the pins or inserting the pins repeatedly. Use Kontak as a lubricant, wipe off, let evaporate and then I wipe with Jena Labs contact enhancer leaving a microscopic film on the pins.

Interdental brushes appear to work for sockets but don’t use too large a size.

Works for me, but at your own risk.
This sounds really sketchy. Anything that leaves a film on the tube contacts is a risk of contaminating the socket as the film can leach across the socket dielectric. I've seen this happen and its not pretty. Do this to multiple sockets in your amp or preamp and you could have a major service nightmare if the 'enhancer' is able to contaminate the socket (it can contaminate connectors in the same way). I've seen contact enhancers contaminate circuit boards, requiring their replacement along with all the parts on it. That started with just application to the pins of the tubes.

If the tube is contaminated it may not work right until its been cleaned off properly. For this reason, the Deoxit D series in a spray can is the best bet; spray the pins of the socket and then installed the tube and pull it out a few times. Use a paper towel to then clean the pins of the tube and a cotton swap to remove any excess from the socket contacts.
I doubt they even clean wire before soldering. When my Blade was made, Scott said he polished every wire before soldering.

As far as cleaning speaker jacks, rca, fuses, power inlet, I don't know that is a part of servicing an amp.
FWIW Dept.: if you have to polish the wire the only thing I can think of is its corroded. If you have oxygen free copper and if you use a good quality solder with a good solder flux, this simply isn't necessary as that is literally the job of the flux.
 

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