Share your experience with tweaks etc for your CH gear

Bogan88

Well-Known Member
Aug 11, 2020
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Hi all,

Happy owner of C1+T1+X1+M1.1 (stereo). So far this has been one of the best SS sound I have managed in my room, and I have heard a lot of other SS systems which makes me wanna walk out after 10mins.

I see there are quite a few active CH owners here, would love to hear your experience re tweaks like:

- cable choices (what works, what doesn't)
- footers?
- fuses?
- power conditioning
- grounding boxes or other strange DIY things you have tried

So far I haven't spent too much time/money on cables etc as being in Oz, we don't get nearly as many choices as u folks in US/Europe. Or at least it's very hard to audition anything.

I am running Purist Audio Neptune/Dominus head to toe. Amazing black background, neutral towards a lil warm which I like, and a lush mid.

Recently tried some Sablon ethernet for my streaming chain and it impressed the heck out of me. Will have another Sablon PC coming to try and compare with the PAD neptune/Dom.

footers/fuses/ grounding I have yet to try. Would love to hear what u guys have tried, obviously nothing too over the top (dollar wise) cos otherwise it will make more sense to just get add a C1 mono or M1.1mono.

thanks in advance.
 
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rsorren1

Well-Known Member
Sep 6, 2013
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Dallas area
Bogan88, thanks for purchasing CH Precision products. We are hopeful that your system will bring you many hours of musical enjoyment. Congratulations. There are several recommendations I can make to you. First, I'm assuming your C1 is the latest version that uses DIG_IN HD card and Ethernet Streaming_HD card? You did not indicate if you bought these new from a dealer or pre-owned. If your units are older pre-owned, this should be done first as the improvements are quite good and cost is very reasonable. We introduced these 1.5 - 2 years ago. All C1s can be upgraded to the latest. The cards (DIG_IN and ethernet streaming) can be traded in with one of our dealers and installed at home. New, updated software is loaded on the C1. The whole process takes about 30 min. Latest software version for C1 is 5.2. You should have a Roon Ready input for ethernet streaming with the latest. Since you have an X1, the X1 must be at V1.5 of software.

1. Cable Choices - I can't think of a quality cable brand where I would say it "doesn't work" with our components. Our US dealers have had great success with AudioQuest Dragon, Nordost Valhalla-2 and Odin-2, Goebel LaCorde, Argento, etc. I personally have had great success in my system with AQ Dragon and Valhalla-2. I have no personal experience with your Purist Audio cables.

2. Power conditioning - Critical factor as I'm sure you know. All of our component power supplies and our X1 are built with exceptional power supplies that provide highly regulated clean power source. This is likely one reason why you comment about how quiet (black background) your system seems to be. At shows we have to introduce these into our configuration since we never have the correct number of outlets available and the power from the hotels is generally very noisy. We have had great success with AQ Niagara 5000, 7000 and Nordost QBase products. The M1.1 is capable of tremendous dynamics so careful not to choose something that will limit the dynamics.

3. I have no experience changing out our stock fuses

4. Footers / Shelves - Our products are designed to eliminate internal resonances however, our dealers have had success with several products including HRS racks/shelves. I would try the spike system that comes with each of your components first and then move on from there if desired.

5. Grounding boxes - our dealers and I have had great results with Nordost QKore. Our components come with a jumper in the back of C1/M1.1 (X1 and T1 do not) that allows you to tie signal ground to earth ground at the common termination point, the pre-amp; C1 in your case. I would try the jumper in the Black/Yellow position on the C1, Black/Black on the M1.1 first. Then experiment with adding grounding boxes like QKore with grounding wires to each component. You can use an unused INPUT terminal (RCA or XLR) on the C1, one of the unused inputs on the M1.1, an unused BNC output on the T1 and an empty RJ45 slot for the data switch that feeds the C1 for connecting grounding wires.

6. Optimizing streaming - I've been experimenting with this over the past year. Quality ethernet cables, eliminating switching power supplies from the data switches and router that feeds the C1, grounding wires have all collectively yielded improvements to digital streaming. The improvements I heard were in the treble region and in overall reduction of "noise" that added to the resolution in the presentation.

All of that said, there is one improvement to your system you can make that will far outperform all of the above combined: add an L1 to your system. The C1 volume control is excellent but the L1 will take your system to the next level of performance. The critical interface between the amp and pre-amp is optimized by introducing the L1. Remember, you can power two of our components with a single X1 by introducing a second power regulation card to your X1. While separate X1s on a C1 and L1 will yield better results, an X1-Dual on your L1 and C1 will get you well down the road.

I look forward to reading what other of our owners will suggest too. Again congratulations and enjoy your system.
 

Jambo

Well-Known Member
Apr 15, 2015
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Australia
Bogan88,

I just bought a YG rack, which helped with my C1, T1 and 2x A1.5 monos. I did not have room for 1 CH M1.1. While the rack helped i could not at this time justify the expensive footers the likes of CMS or HRS at this stage, so i got these at a far more affordable price.
https://theaudiophileman.com/damping-df-isolation-feet-review-soundeck/

i put them under the C1, A1.5 monos and my pink faun server and it seem help a fair bit, so I’m quite content at this stage.

regarding fuses, whenever i get new gear, fuse replacement is one of the top priority changes. I have gone through the entire SR range of fuses at one time or another. Currently the best SR fuse i have found is the SR orange fuse. All my CH gear has the appropriate SR orange fuse. Removes the greyness, that you don’t realise is there until you change the fuses. I have not tried other makes of fuses, i’m quite content with the SR Orange fuses. As well adding, bass, transparency, liquidity, and just sounds more real.

Independently I have tried telos fuse in my headphone amp, the SR blue beat it without even blinking an eye, and the SR orange has pushed the sound even further. Orange SR is thier best fuse. I’m very happy with the performance.

I’m quite a fan of Crystal Cable, and I use the top of the range CC Ultimate for speaker cables and Absoloute dream for interconnects. I quite like the neutrality, with just a hint of warmth. I think it matches the CH gear quite nicely and gives the CH a bit of ‘humanity’. I have not tried others as the dealer i deal with CH has this and siltech. I did not want thick cables so I’m very pleased with CC.

i have a discontinued power conditioner called the Running Spring Audio - the Dimitri model. All my gear (including amps) are connected to it. Due to me using US power cords, even though i live in Australia, i have not had a chance to see what effect it would have if i went direct to the wall for power amps. I don’t feel its restricting dynamics, so have stuck with this for quite a few years.

I use Vertere HB mains power cords from wall to conditioner and from the conditioner to all my CH gear.

Have not tried any grounding boxes.

as you are in Oz, drop me a PM if you happend to be in QLD then you can come over for a listen.

Cheers,
 
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Sablon Audio

Industry Expert, VIP Donor
May 22, 2015
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@rsorren1 - one of your dealers chose to run an all Sablon loom despite my being a direct seller and him being unable to resell the brand. An additional area of upgrade he mentioned is to use a good quality 15a cord for the ancilliary display input.
 

rsorren1

Well-Known Member
Sep 6, 2013
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Dallas area
@rsorren1 - one of your dealers chose to run an all Sablon loom despite my being a direct seller and him being unable to resell the brand. An additional area of upgrade he mentioned is to use a good quality 15a cord for the ancilliary display input.

Thanks for the response. The question of what power cord to use on a component that is X1 connected gets asked of me quite a bit so let me describe my recent experience. As background, when one of our components (C1 DAC, D1 Transport, P1 phono, L1 pre-amp) is connected to our optional power supply, X1, the 15 amp power cord of that component is still required. Internally, the components power supply is being used to power the front display and the rear USB firmware upgrade port. I always used the stock 15 amp cord that we supply with each unit and a high quality power cord on the X1. Several of our owners and dealers told me that they achieved improved performance by using a high quality power cord on the X1 connected component. With the help of AudioQuest, I got a chance to try it for myself. The improvement was easy to hear. The presentation in my system became more "real". I could hear the nuanced playing of guitar that Pat Metheny uses on the track "And I Love Her" more than before. Beethoven Violin Sonata (APO vinyl release Szeryng/Rubinstein), Schubert Piano Sonatas (UHQCD Uchida) all had better resolution of details, more "real" than before. This would definitely be an area of experiment for CH Precision owners who use X1s on our components.
 
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mtemur

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Mar 26, 2019
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well I can not say that I'm a fan of CH Precision components but they sound very very good when CH Precision cables are used. cables are made by Argento.
 

Bogan88

Well-Known Member
Aug 11, 2020
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Thanks guys for the reply. some very good tips and info here.

several things I noted too:

@rsorren1

my units are only a few months old so yes, latest HD card and firmware etc. I must say the customer support from Florian and the team is second to none. I have had experience with other hi-end manufacturers and they dont even bother answering customer emails. Terrible.

one question, I didn't have the USB card option. I am using a DIY server via ethernet for the ripped music. I have heard other system with USB vs ethernet and to my ears, ethernet sounded more musical and better to my ears.

what's your thoughts re the "better" sounding option for music servers? USB in or ethernet in? some servers don't cater/aren't optimised for ethernet so it's annoying.

My T1 was the surprise for me. Never thought about getting a clock until a friend highly recommended to me. And now I want to clock everything!!
In my system it gave the biggest uplift in performance. Like a big injection of musicality and realism to the music.
The X1 only gave me a marginal gain (not sure if that's because we have good power supply here in Aust).

re cabings, a few interesting suggestions here.

I had an Argento Flow PC, my Purist Neptune killed it. So Argento is out.
Purist gave me the darkest blackground and a lush/warmish sound which I love. Prob not the most "detailed" cable but it draws u into the music and did I mention the quiet background! Would love to try crystal as @Jambo recomm, but def out of my budget :)

I will have a Sablon Prince PC coming soon, so would be interesting to compare them to my Purist Neptune and Dominus PC.
Sablon's ethernet cables are several levels above my Purist ethernet cable (to my ears), hence I will be going head-toe sablon ethernet cables soon. thanks Mark!

and I can concur with the experience about the 2nd (non-important)15A power cord for the M1.1 and also C1 (after X1 is used). yes it makes a difference. 100%.

But like @rsorren1, I was comparing the stock $10 cord to a US1000 cord! and in my system, if I only had one "spare" good PC, I would put it into the M1.1 15A plug, not the C1. The improvement was more pronounced, but ROI is low and I wouldn't spend heaps on it tbh.
 
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rsorren1

Well-Known Member
Sep 6, 2013
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Dallas area
Thanks guys for the reply. some very good tips and info here.

several things I noted too:

@rsorren1

my units are only a few months old so yes, latest HD card and firmware etc. I must say the customer support from Florian and the team is second to none. I have had experience with other hi-end manufacturers and they dont even bother answering customer emails. Terrible.

one question, I didn't have the USB card option. I am using a DIY server via ethernet for the ripped music. I have heard other system with USB vs ethernet and to my ears, ethernet sounded more musical and better to my ears.

what's your thoughts re the "better" sounding option for music servers? USB in or ethernet in? some servers don't cater/aren't optimised for ethernet so it's annoying.

My T1 was the surprise for me. Never thought about getting a clock until a friend highly recommended to me. And now I want to clock everything!!
In my system it gave the biggest uplift in performance. Like a big injection of musicality and realism to the music.
The X1 only gave me a marginal gain (not sure if that's because we have good power supply here in Aust).

re cabings, a few interesting suggestions here.

I had an Argento Flow PC, my Purist Neptune killed it. So Argento is out.
Purist gave me the darkest blackground and a lush/warmish sound which I love. Prob not the most "detailed" cable but it draws u into the music and did I mention the quiet background! Would love to try crystal as @Jambo recomm, but def out of my budget :)

I will have a Sablon Prince PC coming soon, so would be interesting to compare them to my Purist Neptune and Dominus PC.
Sablon's ethernet cables are several levels above my Purist ethernet cable (to my ears), hence I will be going head-toe sablon ethernet cables soon. thanks Mark!

and I can concur with the experience about the 2nd (non-important)15A power cord for the M1.1 and also C1 (after X1 is used). yes it makes a difference. 100%.

But like @rsorren1, I was comparing the stock $10 cord to a US1000 cord! and in my system, if I only had one "spare" good PC, I would put it into the M1.1 15A plug, not the C1. The improvement was more pronounced, but ROI is low and I wouldn't spend heaps on it tbh.

Thanks for the reply. I am delighted that your ownership experience with CH Precision thus far has been "second to none". Now:
1. While both are excellent, our ethernet HD card generally out performs our USB implementation in my experience too. Remember there are two ways to feed files to your C1 via ethernet: UPnP and through ROON. UPnP: run a program like miniMserver on the computing device where the files are located. Select "ethernet" input on your C1. Using a control program like our control app, send files to your C1. Our control application is available on our website or downloaded from Google Play Store. An Android device is required. If you are a ROON licensed user: select "ROON Ready" as the input on your C1. Have ROON Server running on a computing device that is on the same network as the C1. ROON will recognize your C1 as an endpoint. You are good to go. One exception to all this that I have found: if you are using an Aurender W20 and clock the W20 from your T1, the USB results are very close to our ethernet HD results. Finally, a D1 transport connected via CH-LINK HD and clocked by your T1 beats both ethernet and USB in my experience.
2.Delighted that you have a T1. I had a similar experience when I added a T1 to my system. Sine wave, low level are the optimal settings for our C1, D1. Turn off all unused clock outputs.
3. Some CH Precision informational videos can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpiQV2Wcn5JZ8rhQiVyQipw
 

Bogan88

Well-Known Member
Aug 11, 2020
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Hi Ralph,

nice video. now we know what you look like LOL

I am a lil confused re my clock settings. Your suggestion seems to contradict what I have been told my Florian previously. maybe something got lost in translation....

- for T1 Waveform setting, Florian suggested SQUARE (not sine wave) for CH components and Sinwave for other manufacturer's components? Is that because CH to CH connection is complementary and works better without the additional "smoothing" of the sine wave setting? I did a quick listen between the two, hardly any difference to my ears.

- for the C1's clock source setting. Any real difference between the Hi-Z and Synchro 75Ohm?

- and re streaming, I find it strange that Tidal sounds better via using the CHapp compared to via Roon with my server as Roon Core (also via ethernet)? The SQ gap is smaller now that I have improved my ethernet with switches and LPS etc.

As much as I love the CHapp, Roon's interface trumps it for Tidal streaming and browsing new music. So until CH comes up with a better browsing experience, I am stuck with Roon.

Any ideas how to close the gap (for Tidal streaming) using my server as Roon Core?

The logical idea is to upgrade my pretty basic server, but no one can explain how splashing $$ on a server will improve Tidal streaming? yes, it will improve ripped music playback, but streaming too??

and apart from Taiko Extreme (which is out of my budget for now). Any suggestions of other servers choices that are "optimised" for ethernet direct to C1 DAC (not USB)?? Antipodes/Innuos/ Melco all have direct low-noise LAN direct into DAC.

thanks!
 

Brahmsian

VIP/Donor
Aug 2, 2020
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Hi Ralph,

nice video. now we know what you look like LOL

I am a lil confused re my clock settings. Your suggestion seems to contradict what I have been told my Florian previously. maybe something got lost in translation....

- for T1 Waveform setting, Florian suggested SQUARE (not sine wave) for CH components and Sinwave for other manufacturer's components? Is that because CH to CH connection is complementary and works better without the additional "smoothing" of the sine wave setting? I did a quick listen between the two, hardly any difference to my ears.

- for the C1's clock source setting. Any real difference between the Hi-Z and Synchro 75Ohm?

- and re streaming, I find it strange that Tidal sounds better via using the CHapp compared to via Roon with my server as Roon Core (also via ethernet)? The SQ gap is smaller now that I have improved my ethernet with switches and LPS etc.

As much as I love the CHapp, Roon's interface trumps it for Tidal streaming and browsing new music. So until CH comes up with a better browsing experience, I am stuck with Roon.

Any ideas how to close the gap (for Tidal streaming) using my server as Roon Core?

The logical idea is to upgrade my pretty basic server, but no one can explain how splashing $$ on a server will improve Tidal streaming? yes, it will improve ripped music playback, but streaming too??

and apart from Taiko Extreme (which is out of my budget for now). Any suggestions of other servers choices that are "optimised" for ethernet direct to C1 DAC (not USB)?? Antipodes/Innuos/ Melco all have direct low-noise LAN direct into DAC.

thanks!
Hi,

A few observations from me:

1) I am not going to start a debate on Roon but because of its architecture and communication protocol, the Roon server plays a very important role in terms of SQ. The C1 end point being very transparent, will show this matter up very clearly. I have tried several dedicated Roon servers and while they are all different, the best one I have found is the Silent Angel Rhein Z1+.
2) If SQ is of prime importance, uPnP protocol provides a better sound on C1 - better timbre, coloring and dynamics. Why this is, I don’t know. For uPnP, my server is a Minimserver running on a NAS. This issue is even more amplified when it comes to DSD format or music coming from Tidal.
3) Good luck - I have wasted a lot of time and $$$ on Roon and now, I have gone back to my CD collection of which I have 6000. I only use Roon / Tidal to sample music before I order another disc. There is no comparison between CD vs streaming at least according to my ear on my set up.
 
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plasmod3

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Aug 28, 2020
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Hi Bogan, good to see another aussie on here but hmmm....why bogan? haha . get the yg racks from boris and change that t1 over to a cybershaft op21a. usb sounds better to ethernet.. improve your powersupply and that thing will fly. get tthe gigawatt circuit breaker update as well as the in wall gigawatt cables to wire up from swich to socket then get your power cables from thereon right. also disconect your ch dac from the internet - it will sound better

you think it sounds good, it will improve with the right mix on it even further:)
 

JackD201

WBF Founding Member
Apr 20, 2010
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I too concur on the M1/M1.1 except the 15A is actually different from the other components. In the others it powers the control sections only, in the Ms they are the source for the control but more importantly the Class A gain stages. I will go as far to say that the 15A is arguably more important than the 20A and that if one has a limited conditioner or battery power supply that the gain stage be plugged into that while the power section can go straight into the wall.

I've not tried grounding since my personal belief is that unless I experience humming, which I don't, I would rather look for improvements elsewhere.

I've found CH to be less sensitive to racks and footers than other electronics in our line that have less robust chassis construction and those that do not float the internal boards. There are improvements, yes, but not in the same in order of magnitude.

As for cables, I'm a-ok and thus not looking to waste the time of distributor friends to try other cables. I'm just not curious enough to subject them and myself to the hassle. Happy with the Master|Built Ultra loom and honestly it would take one heck of a trade in offer for me to even consider swapping out even for a trial if they came out with something new. Well, maybe an interconnect or PC, just the easy stuff to A/B.

When I fially get ROON/NAS worked out, I intend to move my Aurender out into another system. That would free up the rack space I require for a T1. I'll just put the cable savings towards the CH clock cables (to D1 and C1). As for my L1/X1 and M1Ms, they are spoken for as I await my L10/M10Ms. The additional power cords and amp stands are set to be ordered as well.
 

rsorren1

Well-Known Member
Sep 6, 2013
365
133
348
Dallas area
Hi Ralph,

nice video. now we know what you look like LOL

I am a lil confused re my clock settings. Your suggestion seems to contradict what I have been told my Florian previously. maybe something got lost in translation....

- for T1 Waveform setting, Florian suggested SQUARE (not sine wave) for CH components and Sinwave for other manufacturer's components? Is that because CH to CH connection is complementary and works better without the additional "smoothing" of the sine wave setting? I did a quick listen between the two, hardly any difference to my ears.

- for the C1's clock source setting. Any real difference between the Hi-Z and Synchro 75Ohm?

- and re streaming, I find it strange that Tidal sounds better via using the CHapp compared to via Roon with my server as Roon Core (also via ethernet)? The SQ gap is smaller now that I have improved my ethernet with switches and LPS etc.

As much as I love the CHapp, Roon's interface trumps it for Tidal streaming and browsing new music. So until CH comes up with a better browsing experience, I am stuck with Roon.

Any ideas how to close the gap (for Tidal streaming) using my server as Roon Core?

The logical idea is to upgrade my pretty basic server, but no one can explain how splashing $$ on a server will improve Tidal streaming? yes, it will improve ripped music playback, but streaming too??

and apart from Taiko Extreme (which is out of my budget for now). Any suggestions of other servers choices that are "optimised" for ethernet direct to C1 DAC (not USB)?? Antipodes/Innuos/ Melco all have direct low-noise LAN direct into DAC.

thanks!
For waveform, I have always used sine wave at low level for our components. I doubt there would be a difference between sine and square wave.

The cable used and the "clock source" for components connected to the T1 are critical. See Section 5.1 of the T1 User Manual:

"The T1 outputs have a 75 Ohm characteristic impedance. For best transmission efficiency, the coaxial cables connected to the T1 outputs should have low capacitance, 75 Ohm characteristic impedance. The unit on the other end of the cable, receiving the T1 clock signal should be terminated with a 75 Ohm load."

Therefore, the "clock source" setting is used to set the termination in the component for the incoming clock signal. Please select BNC 75 ohm for all T1 connected components.

With regard to streaming, I am delighted that you have upgraded your ethernet cables and gone to LPS for network hardware. I have done the same and am impressed with the improvement. I agree with you, ROON has a much better interface than our Control App and much better metadata. I am a Roon lifetime licensed user too. As to why Tidal sounds better on our control app, I would check your settings on Roon for the C1 endpoint. Make sure the MQA decoder/renderer are "off" (we upsample everything to 16x base frequency using our upsampling filter and digital filter), make sure the EQ settings are all off and disabled. Those are the settings I use. I can not tell the difference between a streamed file from QoBuz (my streaming service) played back through Roon or our control app.

I have not had the chance to compare streamed music using one of the ultra high-end music servers. CH Precision US Dealers have reported that they have heard better results using devices such as Taiko Extreme, Innuos, Melco, etc over a basic Windows or MacOS computer. I would think that this would be an area to explore.

Hope this helps
 

Bogan88

Well-Known Member
Aug 11, 2020
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@JackD201

Thanks for the info @JackD201 re 15A section of the M1.1 . That explains a lot.

I was testing another PAD Dominus PC i recently acquired and deciding which component to place it at.

And surprisingly after an hour to swapping around it still ended up at the 15A section of my M1.1 (over my C1, T1)! I thought I was going nuts but good to know I am not loosing my hearing just yet.

re Clock cable. I have a Habst 5N cable coming next week, testing this over my current Purist neptune. (Plasmod3 wink wink ;))

and for the sine wave (Square vs Sine), my ears couldn't hear a difference.... maybe others can. So i won't worry about it.


@rsorren1

Good tip re Roon. I have always turned off the DSP function. Tried it, was fun, but it's rubbish.

MQA (first unfold) I will try to turn it off. I have always left it on as a lot of new albums has MQA.

If I can get streaming via Roon to sound the same as thru CHapp. I am happy.
If I can get streaming to sound the same/better than ripped music, I will stop tinkering/upgrading.

thanks guys. all very good tips here.
 
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HiFim3

Well-Known Member
Feb 3, 2016
8
2
108
Ron Buffington here, new CH Precision dealer with my store Liquid HiFi.

I've had excellent results with the combination of HRS Racks/Isolation bases and RevOPod footers screwed directly into the M1.1/A1.5/X1/L1/P1.
 

TommyC

Well-Known Member
May 28, 2014
38
9
313
Ron Buffington here, new CH Precision dealer with my store Liquid HiFi.

I've had excellent results with the combination of HRS Racks/Isolation bases and RevOPod footers screwed directly into the M1.1/A1.5/X1/L1/P1.

How did you screw the RevOPod to the CH? Did you have to remove the original footers?
 

HiFim3

Well-Known Member
Feb 3, 2016
8
2
108
TommyC - the CHP footers are not removable as they go all the way from top to bottom of the chassis.
They have an M10 hole in the bottom of them so you simply use the M10 adapter from RevOPod and screw it right into the bottom of the CH foot where the spike would normally come out.

I'll try to post some pics.
 

TommyC

Well-Known Member
May 28, 2014
38
9
313
TommyC - the CHP footers are not removable as they go all the way from top to bottom of the chassis.
They have an M10 hole in the bottom of them so you simply use the M10 adapter from RevOPod and screw it right into the bottom of the CH foot where the spike would normally come out.

I'll try to post some pics.
Ok got it!
 

gian60

Well-Known Member
Apr 17, 2016
2,503
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I tried many cables,also some vey expensive,bought or tried thanks to friends and distributor and in my system the best cables i found are Gobel Lacorde Statement.

Last year Oliver when went to holiday passed from Milan and came one day to my home bringing all setup of cables for my system to try.

Regarding power cable i told him i was interesting to buy for M1 20A and for X1,no for L1,P1 and M1 16 A because i was thinking doesnt matter.
He told even with M1 15A and L1 and P,1even if connected to X1,the improvment was big,he already tried in his system.

We tried with my normal but good cable,and putting Gobel into L1,P1 and M1 15A the improvment was big.
This was a pity for me because it means spend other money,but really was a big improvment.
I dont understand why
 

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