Sme 3012 R

I know this old arm is good but I don’t know why David,Rockitman,Tang,Ron,Mike
Use or will use having top tonearm like Sat,EliteAxiom,Black Beauty,Durand

Why 3012 is so special?
I never had and I don’t understand
Only to know for my curiosity
Regards
Gian
 
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Hi pcosta

Did you remove the rubber grommets from the bedplate and hard mount? If you have, wondering what the difference is between grommet and no grommet, especially when we have practically the same table.

cheers

XV-1
I am using the rubber grommets on both. Never tried it without.

Paul
 
I

I have a question for the experts. I installed my cartridge on the headshell that came with the arm. The 4 wires did not clamp on tight to the cartridge (even with gentle squeezing of needle nose pliers) so I decided to change to a separate SME headshell that I bought. This one is different:

- it is gunmetal instead of black
- it has a notch on the bottom as well as the top (where it connects to the arm tube) whereas the original only had one on top
- it is a full gram heavier!

Any insight or recommendations?

Anyone?
 

- Never seen a gunmetal version don't know what that is.

- Old S2 has a single pin on top the newer ones have two pins like the ones Chris bought that they're black.

- Nothing wrong with your original headshell just replace the old connector wires with new ones some cartridges have fatter pins than others so they expanded the contacts, Ortofon's headshell wires are pretty good.

david
 
- Never seen a gunmetal version don't know what that is.

- Old S2 has a single pin on top the newer ones have two pins like the ones Chris bought that they're black.

- Nothing wrong with your original headshell just replace the old connector wires with new ones some cartridges have fatter pins than others so they expanded the contacts, Ortofon's headshell wires are pretty good.

david

Thank you, David. The gunmetal is pretty subtle (slight blue hue otherwise looks black).

I did buy replacement connector wires along with another headshell so I'll be set for 3 cartridges.
 
thanks Paul. It must be the washers you are using that are hiding the grommets. cheers

I used the washers, but the 3mm screws from TW didn't fit through the washers that SME supplied so I had to get out the Dremel tool to make the holes a touch bigger. I still have all my fingers.
Do you have the original black painted brass armboards from TW. I have the new black aluminum versions. I would like to have one of the old brass one for the sake or the greater mass and assume the brass would have a different character than aluminum.
 
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I used the washers, but the 3mm screws from TW didn't fit through the washers that SME supplied so I had to get out the Dremel tool to make the holes a touch bigger. I still have all my fingers.
Do you have the original black painted brass armboards from TW. I have the new black aluminum versions. I would like to have one of the old brass one for the sake or the greater mass and assume the brass would have a different character than aluminum.

Hi Paul

I did not use the washers - just the screws into the grommet, but not too tight per SME manual. hmmm, I wonder if the washers make any discernible sonic difference.

Yes, both my arm boards are the brass ones, painted black. I did not know Thomas is now doing them in aluminium. Did he lower the prices of the aluminium arm boards :)
 
Hi Paul

I did not use the washers - just the screws into the grommet, but not too tight per SME manual. hmmm, I wonder if the washers make any discernible sonic difference.

Yes, both my arm boards are the brass ones, painted black. I did not know Thomas is now doing them in aluminium. Did he lower the prices of the aluminium arm boards :)

He has had the aluminum armboards for a few years now. Looks as the main reason for the change the black anodizing looks great. The black paint used to peel off on some of those brass armboards apparently. I have a couple of the old brass boards but not with a SME cutout. They feel like they are twice the weight. As for price don't know. The SME is a simple cut compared to the two piece boards he has now for other arms, but I think the two piece armboards are brilliant since it allows you to orient the arm where you need it face. So a SME cutout is probably less expensive than the others.
 
Thank you, David. The gunmetal is pretty subtle (slight blue hue otherwise looks black).

I did buy replacement connector wires along with another headshell so I'll be set for 3 cartridges.

Ian, you may still need to adjust overhang for proper alignment if the cartridge mounting hole to stylus distance varies with your three cartridges. Arm height and VTF may also need to be adjusted, so it may not be a simple swapping of head shells. Then there is cartridge loading to consider too.

Do you think you may switch arms back and forth by simply swapping armboards?
 
Ian, you may still need to adjust overhang for proper alignment if the cartridge mounting hole to stylus distance varies with your three cartridges. Arm height and VTF may also need to be adjusted, so it may not be a simple swapping of head shells. Then there is cartridge loading to consider too.

Do you think you may switch arms back and forth by simply swapping armboards?

Once he has the ddk jig, his 3012R alignment challenges will be over.
 

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@ddk when will these be available and the cost? the cardboard SME alignment gauge does not seem quite good enough.:p

cheers

The dB Systems protractor you can order now. Pictured is a proto type. There is a mm scale going in both directions.

Where the U slot is, you rest your headshell mounted cart there and measure where the stylus touches on the scale.

Once you have that number, you mount the jig on the tonearm. Using the protractor and the measurement lines on the jig, you align the jig to the same number the cart was. That way there is no chance of stylus damage and makes the Whole procedure simple, fast and stress free.
 
I put the jig on it’s side and use magnification on where the stylus is and add .5 mm for cantilever deflection under tracking force. iPad crappy pic
 

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The dB Systems protractor you can order now. Pictured is a proto type. There is a mm scale going in both directions.

Where the U slot is, you rest your headshell mounted cart there and measure where the stylus touches on the scale.

Once you have that number, you mount the jig on the tonearm. Using the protractor and the measurement lines on the jig, you align the jig to the same number the cart was. That way there is no chance of stylus damage and makes the Whole procedure simple, fast and stress free.

I put the jig on it’s side and use magnification on where the stylus is and add .5 mm for cantilever deflection under tracking force. iPad crappy pic

Looks good. Sounds like i should wait - unless its going to be months away.
 

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