Do you think replacing AN Kaisei caps with Mundorf MLGO HV is a good idea?AN Kaisei caps are quite colored compared to the Black Gates they were suppose to emulate but of course that's something else again.
Do you think replacing AN Kaisei caps with Mundorf MLGO HV is a good idea?AN Kaisei caps are quite colored compared to the Black Gates they were suppose to emulate but of course that's something else again.
Do you think replacing AN Kaisei caps with Mundorf MLGO HV is a good idea?
For electrolytics, I'd stay with AN. I think they're great.Do you think replacing AN Kaisei caps with Mundorf MLGO HV is a good idea?
they all incorporate Vishay resistors.
Thank you for your input, RJ! I don't like coloured sound and I've read enough accounts where people say that AN products colour the sound. Many audiophiles like it. I don't. So, I am leaning toward using top Vishays throughout. Where "naked" Z-Foils can't be used because of power rating limitations (around 50% of total positions), I'll use CMF Series and for the highest power rating (2W, 3W and up) - MRA Series. Compared to the rubbish they put in my preamp at the factory, this will be a major breakthrough. The audiophile itch has got the better of me now. Time to set the wheels in motionNot sure if this comparison counts but thought I'd put across since I came across the name Vishay!
Been using CJ amplifiers for few decades, and along the way few years back I was very interested in one particular amplifier by AN, the Overture integrated. Class A operation with a healthy output of 32w using the wonderful EL34's. The sound and presentation driving Quads ESL2905's at the time was fantastic! Very wide soundstage with excellent depth, a sort of enveloping sound that wraps around you and fully immerses you in the listening experience. That particular amplifier used these resistors and high grade KSI caps, developed and designed by Kondo San. It was a very unique sound, bit coloured I may add and yet very musical. However, at the end I didn't finalise on the Overture, simply because I ventured towards the CLX's.
Now, heading back to CJ's amplifiers, I've noticed that in all their top level gear, including their SE offerings and upgrades, amongst the highly regarded Teflon caps used plus other specialised parts, they all incorporate Vishay resistors. This brings the performance closer to the real thing, such that the equipment gets out of the way and allows more of the music to flow. The dynamic behaviour, transient control and neutral affects of using Vishay's is marvellous! And so I stuck with CJ.
Now, don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that the AN stuff is no good or not upto par. This is just my preference and I believe it all depends on what you personally want from your system to be able to reproduce. Therefore, I think you would need to try these out or audition these components in one form or another, only then would you be able to evaluate which type you prefer.
After all, it's your listening experience and your inner satisfaction. I'm sure both of these types of parts / components are truly special, it's a matter of personal choice on which one you find yourself fully engaged with.
Cheers and have a good one,
RJ
You can always go with 2 Naked Foils in parallel to get the power rating up to where it needs to be. Obviously double the resistance of the parallel components, if you do.Thank you for your input, RJ! I don't like coloured sound and I've read enough accounts where people say that AN products colour the sound. Many audiophiles like it. I don't. So, I am leaning toward using top Vishays throughout. Where "naked" Z-Foils can't be used because of power rating limitations (around 50% of total positions), I'll use CMF Series and for the highest power rating (2W, 3W and up) - MRA Series. Compared to the rubbish they put in my preamp at the factory, this will be a major breakthrough. The audiophile itch has got the better of me now. Time to set the wheels in motion
You mean if I implement my own plan described in post #28? Or if I follow bazelio's recommendation (see post #29) and use naked Z-Foils everywhere?I guarantee you'll hear quite an improvement...
I have tried many, many different resistors in my tube electronics including naked Z foils and all Audio Note tantalums—magnetics, non-magnetics and Silver Tantalums. Of all these, the very best sounding resistors for most applications are Audio Note 2w Silver Tantalums. But I wouldn’t say they are the best everywhere. For grid stopper positions I find Riken carbon film are the very best. I also like Mills wirewound resistors for many plate load spots.
The naked Vishays are also very good but they sound quite different. They have excellent detail and speed but they are slightly cool sounding. On the other hand all of the AN Tantalums even the 2w Silvers are on the warm side.
The bottom line is resistors all sound different, and the best sounding type in one position is not the same as with other positions. The idea of replacing ALL resistors in a given piece of equipment with a single resistor type makes no sense at all to me. As an example, in my phono preamp which is a D3a/5687 circuit I have tried numerous resistors in each position, and I selected the very best sounding ones for each spot regardless of cost. It has nude Vishays in the RIAA eq network, Mills 12w wirewound on the D3a plate, Rikens for gridstoppers, and 2w Silver Tantalums for all loading positions (input, Interstage and output).
By the way, different wattage resistors of the same resistor type also sound different. That’s why I specified 2 watt AN Silvers as the best. AN now has 1/2w Silver Tantalums but they don’t sound as good. The same pattern holds true with the AN Tantalums. For the magnetic Tantalums, the 2w sounds best, followed by 1w, with the 1/2w even further behind. For what it’s worth, I prefer the older 2w and 1w magnetic Tantalums over the current non-magnetic Tantalums (other than the 2w Silver non-magnetic which is in a class by itself).
Can you define "cool" and "warm"?The naked Vishays... are slightly cool sounding. On the other hand all of the AN Tantalums even the 2w Silvers are on the warm side.
As well as the different wattages of Silver tants, Audio Note have recently launched a new Niobium model though I don’t have any feedback on how it sounds.
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/audionote-niobium-resistors.html
Likewise!Thanks for the tip on the AN silver, I'll have to give them a shot in the next project. I'm sure I'll like them as my amps and preamps also use Riken (or Amtrans) carbon film gridstoppers, and Mills wirewound in PS and plate. You obviously have great tastes!
So, Salectric, will you define "cool" and "warm" or not? Or am I asking too much?