The Jantzen Amber are a lot more expensive than the Silver… I’ll ask about the Duelunds, they are more than the Amber, but not much more. They are huge! Not sure I have room, as I need 32 uF and 15 uF … that’s about 8 of those per side.
The Jantzen Amber are a lot more expensive than the Silver… I’ll ask about the Duelunds, they are more than the Amber, but not much more. They are huge! Not sure I have room, as I need 32 uF and 15 uF … that’s about 8 of those per side.
A capacitor should be neutral. And this is guaranteed by the Audyn Copper Cap. This capacitor passes on what your electronics specify. You are buying a high-end capacitor and not an equalizer. Absolutely honest reproduction. Copper polypropylene capacitor for very high-quality audiophile...
A capacitor should be neutral. And this is guaranteed by the Audyn Copper Cap. This capacitor passes on what your electronics specify. You are buying a high-end capacitor and not an equalizer. Absolutely honest reproduction. Copper polypropylene capacitor for very high-quality audiophile...
Yes, the crossover is already external, but having it under the bass horn is the nicest implementation. The Duelunds will be massive, given how many I need.
Bill, have you heard the Cu/Ag hybrid? I can’t afford the pure silver CAST.
Keep in mind my pre-amp and amp are pure silver wired, with silver transformers and caps (Kondo Japan); so undoubtedly the pure silver Duelunds would be best, but they will cost more than the speakers!
Agree, I would try the Audyn True Copper Max + (Plus versions) or the Milflex KPCU, either bypassed with the silver Duelund 0.01uF before resorting to the Duelunds custom caps as you may like what you hear. I use all three caps in various applications and it is not always a given which one will perform better until you try them. Don’t get tunnel vision, and try the Audyn True Copper Max + and Milflex KPCU caps bypassed with the silver 0.01uF Duelunds before you spend your money on custom Duelund caps.
Agree, I would try the Audyn True Copper Max + (Plus versions) or the Milflex KPCU, either bypassed with the silver Duelund 0.01uF before resorting to the Duelunds custom caps as you may like what you hear. I use all three caps in various applications and it is not always a giving which one will perform better until you try them. Don’t get tunnel vision, and try the Audyn True Copper Max + and Milflex KPCU caps bypassed with the silver 0.01uF Duelunds before you spend your money on custom Duelund caps.
I didn't like the bypass cap on my tweeter crossover (only that single cap pictured above). Some smearing to my ears.
And I wish it weren't true, but the Duelunds were quite a bit better than the Jupiter and Miflex copper foil competitors in my system (Jupiter on the tweeter and Miflex as a preamp coupling capacitor). Definitely not bad, but just outperformed by Duelund to my ear.
Bill, have you heard the Cu/Ag hybrid? I can’t afford the pure silver CAST.
Keep in mind my pre-amp and amp are pure silver wired, with silver transformers and caps (Kondo Japan); so undoubtedly the pure silver Duelunds would be best, but they will cost more than the speakers!
Jeff over at "Jeff's place" (with the big tannoys and altecs) actually likes the tinned copper cast caps best. Unfortunately they're the only ones I've heard aside from the pure silver bypass caps.
Here's the link: Duelund Cap Comparison (btw, ignore the article title if you click... he compares more than just bypass caps)
Bill, have you heard the Cu/Ag hybrid? I can’t afford the pure silver CAST.
Keep in mind my pre-amp and amp are pure silver wired, with silver transformers and caps (Kondo Japan); so undoubtedly the pure silver Duelunds would be best, but they will cost more than the speakers!
Pulled the trigger on custom Dueland Cu-Sn CAST caps based on a bunch of research. Thank you to the members who commented above. Will take 8-9 months to ship, but these speakers have already been a 6 year ordeal, so what’s another 8-9 months?!
Take a look at this spare pair of voice cones that I just received for the RCA1428/1443. These are basically impossible to find. How do they look after ~80+ years?! They don’t make ‘em like they used to!
Compared to modern drivers, what stands out? The size and shape, I bet. Anything else?