This one is on audio markt for 8,5 K ."reasonably priced restored EMT" won´t happen
The restoration looks to be well done.
950 s arent that expensive
What turntables do you use? Pictures would be nice as well :-)
- Thread starter XV-1
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The restoration looks to be well done.
950 s arent that expensive
Plus it blends in nicely with my old tapedecks from that era
The EMT has equalisation cards so id wanna have a direct heads out " arm out " as well
The EMT has equalisation cards so id wanna have a direct
it´s something about those broadcast r2rs and tts and even cd players and casette decks
Agreed. I don't understand my friends that want audio to be invisible in their life because I love all the industrial vibes of pro and serious gear. To me books, records, good audio gear...this is real luxury.
Have you now. Sounds like fun. Must try itI´ve had many hours on my back under the LP12 hanging between 2 dining chairs...never owned one myself though
I was asked to setup an lp12 for a client. It had been a while but not my first time by any stretch. While you can get decent sound out of one I agree- so many other better builds out there...
Before adjusting the pickup and tonearm, you should first check LP 12 whether the sub-chassis is working properly. then it also works with the sound
There are 2 types of setting, static and dynamic. With the static setting, the plate does not rotate during the setting, with the dynamic setting it rotates.
I prefer the dynamic one because it is more precise. Caution, there are approx. 110V at the motor terminals.
The LP12 frame must be perfectly leveled, i.e. really stand straight and not wobble.
Next, it is necessary to put weight on the plate. A tool (round spirit level) from Mana Audio UK, the Mana Sprit Level, has proven to be best. It is placed on the plate axis and weighs about 100 grams.
Now it is possible to adjust the height of the plate exactly while walking with the help of the screws underneath the springs.
This height changes when the springs are turned and must therefore be readjusted.
The point at which the plate is tapped to check the bounce effect lies on an imaginary axis between the tonearm pivot point and the center of the plate. The point is approx. 3-4 cm away from the plate area (towards the tonearm axis). By gently tapping it, you can now observe how the plate swings.
If it is set incorrectly, sideways rocking movements occur, which can be changed by turning the springs. You turn a pen and watch the result.
Attention: Always turn the spring with the rubber in which it is mounted and never just the spring alone! I.e. turn the spring very high up.
If the swing has changed, check whether the plate is still level and readjust if necessary.
Repeat this procedure several times. However, never adjust all three springs. Over time you will get a feeling for the effect on the swing of the individual springs.
Concentrate on only two springs and adjust them to one another so that they do not swing into rocking movements. Only when that is ok, adjust the 3rd spring.
Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the procedure several times until all 3 springs only allow one movement (piston movement).
P.S
a linn belongs on such a table, with adjustable spikes screwed into the feet
I thought the purpose of this thread was to share images of turntables that members are enjoying in their system.
That is simply what I did.... never once did I say the LP12 was the greatest table on the planet regarding sound or build design.
As quoted from above, at least Solypsa can admit "... that you can get decent sound out of one..."
For whatever reason, the LP12 seems to be a polarizing table where there are many around the world who love what it does and equally as many who do not.
In my circle of audiophile friends, I have been able to hear analog front ends from the higher end Basis, VPI's, Sota, rebuilt Garrard, and TW Acustic Raven. All the tables have had pro's and con's. But at the end of the day, I love what "my" LP12/ARO front end does in "my" system and it gives "me" fantastic musical enjoyment for hours on end.
Where I live, we are blessed to be able to hear live music every night of the week... whether it be classical, jazz, blues, singer song writer, rock, etc. I also performed (prior to my strokes) with my cello in classical venues and with my tenor and bass trombones in jazz venues. I am extremely sensitive to intonation, pitch and timing. If my LP12 was a wreck, I simply wouldn't be able to listen to it.
Wishing you all the very best in health, love and happiness this holiday season.
Don
Everything is OK.
I once had linn lp12 and why didn't it sound good. was not due to the tonearms or the cartridge. the sub-chassis was just totally badly adjusted. he makes beautiful music was happy. clearly he's not the best on this planet. I had installed the Alphason tonearm.
Back on topic modified diy plinth thorens td 124 mk I
Hello Solypsa,
No worries, none was taken. That is why I wanted to mentioned that you at least said "... that you can get decent sound out of one..."
As Stephan has said, great care must be taken with the set up of the sub-chasis in order to get the best sound from the LP12. I too have heard LP12's sound dreadful, But always was due to the set up. However, when set up correctly and left sitting in place I have found that they stay set up for a long time. There are myths out there that you need to fiddle with the LP12 constantly to keep it in tune and that simply is not true.
Best wishes,
Don
Hello Stephan,Before adjusting the pickup and tonearm, you should first check LP 12 whether the sub-chassis is working properly. then it also works with the sound
There are 2 types of setting, static and dynamic. With the static setting, the plate does not rotate during the setting, with the dynamic setting it rotates.
I prefer the dynamic one because it is more precise. Caution, there are approx. 110V at the motor terminals.
The LP12 frame must be perfectly leveled, i.e. really stand straight and not wobble.
Next, it is necessary to put weight on the plate. A tool (round spirit level) from Mana Audio UK, the Mana Sprit Level, has proven to be best. It is placed on the plate axis and weighs about 100 grams.
Now it is possible to adjust the height of the plate exactly while walking with the help of the screws underneath the springs.
This height changes when the springs are turned and must therefore be readjusted.
The point at which the plate is tapped to check the bounce effect lies on an imaginary axis between the tonearm pivot point and the center of the plate. The point is approx. 3-4 cm away from the plate area (towards the tonearm axis). By gently tapping it, you can now observe how the plate swings.
If it is set incorrectly, sideways rocking movements occur, which can be changed by turning the springs. You turn a pen and watch the result.
Attention: Always turn the spring with the rubber in which it is mounted and never just the spring alone! I.e. turn the spring very high up.
If the swing has changed, check whether the plate is still level and readjust if necessary.
Repeat this procedure several times. However, never adjust all three springs. Over time you will get a feeling for the effect on the swing of the individual springs.
Concentrate on only two springs and adjust them to one another so that they do not swing into rocking movements. Only when that is ok, adjust the 3rd spring.
Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the procedure several times until all 3 springs only allow one movement (piston movement).
P.S
a linn belongs on such a table, with adjustable spikes screwed into the feet
Excellent post with great information! Thank you for sharing
Best wishes,
Don
That's a great looking custom Thorens! I also like the photographs you have there. Did you happen to take those shots?
One of my other hobbies is photography. I have had a lot of fellow musicians have me capture photos of them while performing and I like to rotate them on my music room's walls. I'll try and post a pic here....
P.S. This image was simply taken with my cell phone, not with my good gear, lol.
Best wishes,
Don
This La Luce had been restored by Steve Dobbins, tonearm rewired with Schroeder copper wire.
I still have original SpJ string drive motor, but I’m using Dereneville motor now.
I still have original SpJ string drive motor, but I’m using Dereneville motor now.
