Electa Amator damaged terminal - binding post

[michael.s]

Can anyone advise me how to access the terminals on my Mk1 Electa Amator? I was over-enthusiastic in tightening and one has a stripped thread. How can I replace or fix it? Any advice most gratefully received!

 

[DLS]

Can anyone advise me how to access the terminals on my Mk1 Electa Amator? I was over-enthusiastic in tightening and one has a stripped thread. How can I replace or fix it? Any advice most gratefully received!

EA has dual binding posts - did you strip more than one? How are the dual posts jumped - with original metal plate? You could jump them with small, banana-type jumper cables, them attach your speaker wire spades to the good terminal. Hope this helps... BTW - a great speaker in the right room!

 

[michael.s]

EA has dual binding posts - did you strip more than one? How are the dual posts jumped - with original metal plate? You could jump them with small, banana-type jumper cables, them attach your speaker wire spades to the good terminal. Hope this helps... BTW - a great speaker in the right room!

Thanks for the reply - speakers are bi-wired, not jumped. Only damaged one, but even connecting with jumpers would pose the same problem! Agree, great speakers, and definitely benefit from bi-wiring.

 

[DLS]

bi-wiring the way to go (I do same with my Extrema speakers) -- no way to use bananas? I seem to remember that there is a tool to repair threading - you screw the thing on and it recuts the grooves properly - must use correct size - check with hardware store -

 

[DLS]

Best Thread Repair Kit * all Types for Every Thread Repair Job (toolsetpro.com)

 

[michael.s]

bi-wiring the way to go (I do same with my Extrema speakers) -- no way to use bananas? I seem to remember that there is a tool to repair threading - you screw the thing on and it recuts the grooves properly - must use correct size - check with hardware store -

I understand that this would fix the thread, but ruin the gold plating. Not the best thing for connectivity. I'd like to replace the binding posts but don't know how to access them. For example, would I remove the woofer and be able to reach and remove / replace the binding posts?

 

[DLS]

I don't know where you are located but if in US, I believe Sumikoaudio.net is still the distributor and you might want to contact them to see if replacement is available. And yes, the only way to access the binding posts is to remove the drivers (you may need to remove both for ease of access), which will give you access to the binding post mounting hardware - I think it is a single piece and bolted.

 

[michael.s]

I don't know where you are located but if in US, I believe Sumikoaudio.net is still the distributor and you might want to contact them to see if replacement is available. And yes, the only way to access the binding posts is to remove the drivers (you may need to remove both for ease of access), which will give you access to the binding post mounting hardware - I think it is a single piece and bolted.

I'm in Australia, thanks for your input - I'll check with the local distributor first, if its easily removable then should not be a problem even if I have to use non standard fittings

 

[BruceD]

Hmmm I see your dilemma --My similar vintage SFGH's have 4 strategically placed Phillps screws to enable the terminal holding plate to easily be removed/etc Your series 1 Amator ( And the BEST Sounding version!) have that one piece Block plate which seems to be fixed from the inside-- whereas the Series II's have the 4 screw Terminal Plate on the rear.

Unless you feel proficient to remove the Drivers I'd certainly advise an experienced trusted hand take on the chore--you stuff up those unobtainium Esotar Tweeters and its good night Nurse.Remember to torque wrench the Drivers when replacing.

These times can be trying so tread carefully and good luck.

BruceD

 

[michael.s]

Hmmm I see your dilemma --My similar vintage SFGH's have 4 strategically placed Phillps screws to enable the terminal holding plate to easily be removed/etc Your series 1 Amator ( And the BEST Sounding version!) have that one piece Block plate which seems to be fixed from the inside-- whereas the Series II's have the 4 screw Terminal Plate on the rear.

Unless you feel proficient to remove the Drivers I'd certainly advise an experienced trusted hand take on the chore--you stuff up those unobtainium Esotar Tweeters and its good night Nurse.Remember to torque wrench the Drivers when replacing.

These times can be trying so tread carefully and good luck.

BruceD

Thanks for your very pragmatic comments - you've made me rethink this, and my new plan is to make the best of the situation by trying to repair the thread as best I can from the outside, and forget about trying to get inside the box!