Golden Gate DAC arrives.

[Blizzard]

OK, so a $35 PCB and a $30 Crystek = $485 how?

In any case, we BOTH know the clog is only controlling the Power supply, which is where the REAL magic is. Come up with a killer recc for the clock power supply, will ya?

PM me your tel number and we can more efficiently thrash this out one day…should be a fun call.

That reclocker is more than a clock on a board. The Crystek was just an example of a popular low phase noise clock. That reclocker can be fitted with a variety of clocks depending on budget.

$35 get's you a raw PCB with no components soldered on:

View attachment 23611

Look at the X1 and X2 clock pads. They can accommodate any size of clock footprint.

The clock is only controlling the power supply? Are you completely out to lunch?

Acko's reclocker has a very low noise LDO to power the clock on the reclocker board.


HiRes, Bit-Perfect 32bits I2S - 44.1k, 48k, 88.2k, 96k, 176.4k, 192k, 352.8k and 384k
-DSD 64,128,256 and 512
-Based on Amanero and AKL-S03 Digital Isolator/Re-Clocker
-Dual Ultra-low Phase Noise Synchronous Audio Clocks
-Buffered Outputs on micro coax (u.fl) headers
-Direct connection to most DACs
-Drives ESS DACs in 'Turbo' Sync mode for the highest performance.
-All separate ultra-low noise (1uV rms) power supply and filters on board with very high PSSR
-Ultra pure 3.3V supply (<0.5uV rms noise) for Oscillator section. Options for external supply from batteries, etc
-I2C Port for reading sample rates directly from transport
-Led sample rate indicators on-board.
-Wide input supply 5-12V d.c. Regulated or unregulated
-Gold plated 2oz Rogers 4003 board
-Selection of finest components
-Assembled and tested



If you buy the turnkey version with the Amanero already attached for $485 it's the easiest way. Then all you need to do is snip the wires off of the amanero, and remove the Amanero from the GG. Mount the reclocker/Amanero board in it's place. Replace the wires that connect from the GG DAC board to the Amanero with wires that have U.FL connectors crimped on 1 end already. Or simply crimp or solder the U.FL connectors on the existing wires (not hard).
I'm sure Acko can provide them. Then plug them into the outputs on the reclocker, and connect the power wires to the reclocker DC input. That's all there is to it.

You can clearly see in the picture it will fit perfectly.

View attachment 23612View attachment 23613View attachment 23614View attachment 23615

 

[Blizzard]

For anyone who thinks it's difficult to solder header pins on an Amanero, I just made a video clip, and pic of end result. It took me about 5 minutes for all pins, but not all pins are required.If those guys at Lampizator screw up 1 in 5, perhaps they should hire a 5 year old to handle this task, rather than someone who's blind.

https://vimeo.com/146840627

View attachment 23618

 

[wisnon]

I guess I am an idiot then. LoL
Sticks and stones and all that…
You didnt even understand my power supply reference,sigh!

For an amateur like me and most here, it is not easy and I would never want to do it again.

Nor there is a seating for the raw amanero board, but with the new PCB on. where do you attach it to the chassis? Based on the extra width and depth ( he blue pcb expanse under the amanero board), are you sure it will fit, or do you need to do some structural mods to attach it? I have actually done it and I see issues for amateurs.

You may be an adept and can work it out easily, but I dont assume the same applies for most here.

Anyway, carry on. I have my popcorn ready.

BTW, your link says:
Page not found
Sorry, there is no video here.
Either it was deleted or it never existed in the first place. Such are the mysteries of the Internet.

 

[Blizzard]

I guess I am an idiot then. LoL
Sticks and stones and all that…
You didnt even understand my power supply reference,sigh!

For an amateur like me and most here, it is not easy and I would never want to do it again.


Nor there is a seating for the raw amanero board, but with the new PCB on. where do you attach it to the chassis? Based on the extra width and depth ( he blue pcb expanse under the amanero board), are you sure it will fit, or do you need to do some structural mods to attach it? I have actually done it and I see issues for amateurs.

You may be an adept and can work it out easily, but I dont assume the same applies for most here.

Anyway, carry on. I have my popcorn ready.

BTW, your link says:
Page not found
Sorry, there is no video here.
Either it was deleted or it never existed in the first place. Such are the mysteries of the Internet.

The video was processing. It's ready now. If you watch that video and still think it looks hard, well I just don't know what to say.


there's enough room. You can see in the closeup of the GG Amanero. the reclocker board only sticks out that direction about 1/4". Looks like there's a little shelf there the stock Amanero bolts to. You can still use it because the same bolts go through the reclocker board. Looks like enough clearance under the board as the power supply wires go under the amanero. Anyways minor details.

 

[Audiophile Bill]

The video was processing. It's ready now. If you watch that video and still think it looks hard, well I just don't know what to say.


there's enough room. You can see in the closeup of the GG Amanero. the reclocker board only sticks out that direction about 1/4". Looks like there's a little shelf there the stock Amanero bolts to. You can still use it because the same bolts go through the reclocker board. Looks like enough clearance under the board as the power supply wires go under the amanero. Anyways minor details.

Hi Blizz - I would think that soldering / crimping the U.FL connectors might be the idiot proof method, no? Where do you solder the dc input on the new board - I can't see it.

 

[Mike Lavigne]

The video was processing. It's ready now. If you watch that video and still think it looks hard, well I just don't know what to say.


there's enough room. You can see in the closeup of the GG Amanero. the reclocker board only sticks out that direction about 1/4". Looks like there's a little shelf there the stock Amanero bolts to. You can still use it because the same bolts go through the reclocker board. Looks like enough clearance under the board as the power supply wires go under the amanero. Anyways minor details.

Blizzard,

I believe you are trying to be of help. and likely what you are recommending could make some positive improvement to the performance. but continuing to push people to modify their new 'under warranty' gear and blindly proclaiming improvements is wearing thin. there are so many bad things that can happen when even reasonably competent amateurs start messing around with otherwise good performing new gear. and you suggest all these 'fixes' with so little caution or qualification.

we can't have a thread on new digital without you telling us why it's not current. I guess it's the degree of your approach not so much the idea of it I'm commenting on.

maybe we should give you a sub-forum to push people who want to 'hot-rod' new gear.

I got to say I'm impressed with your energy level. a few days ago you said you are a man on a mission. no doubt!!!!!

I don't speak for anyone but myself. my 2 cents, YMMV and all that stuff.

 

[Blizzard]

Hi Blizz - I would think that soldering / crimping the U.FL connectors might be the idiot proof method, no? Where do you solder the dc input on the new board - I can't see it.

Yes about as idiot proof as it can get. They simply clip onto the reclocker board with no solder. The power goes into the little holes on the bottom left that say +5v and GND. It takes anywhere from 5v-12v input. then it cleans it all up further with ultra low noise LDO's to power each section discretely.

 

[Blizzard]

Blizzard,

I believe you are trying to be of help. and likely what you are recommending could make some positive improvement to the performance. but continuing to push people to modify their new 'under warranty' gear and blindly proclaiming improvements is wearing thin. there are so many bad things that can happen when even reasonably competent amateurs start messing around with otherwise good performing new gear. and you suggest all these 'fixes' with so little caution or qualification.

we can't have a thread on new digital without you telling us why it's not current. I guess it's the degree of your approach not so much the idea of it I'm commenting on.

maybe we should give you a sub-forum to push people who want to 'hot-rod' new gear.

I got to say I'm impressed with your energy level. a few days ago you said you are a man on a mission. no doubt!!!!!

I'm sure this wouldn't even void the warranty if someone were to ask Lukasz. This is an extremely straight forward low risk mod. If you don't want to do it, then it's not for you. I'm sharing this for those who have the basic skill level to do it, and want to massively improve the sound of their GG, for relatively cheap. Mods like this is how Lukasz started in the business. I can't see why he would object to it.

 

[Mike Lavigne]

I'm sure this wouldn't even void the warranty if someone were to ask Lukasz. This is an extremely straight forward low risk mod. If you don't want to do it, then it's not for you. I'm sharing this for those who have the basic skill level to do it, and want to massively improve the sound of their GG, for relatively cheap. Mods like this is how Lukasz started in the business. I can't see why he would object to it.

'any' mod voids the warranty. even opening the case voids the warranty.

and how many 'little' mods have you recommended in the last 633 posts?

do you really think any manufacturer is going to allow their customers to open up their gear and modify it?

really?

 

[Blizzard]

'any' mod voids the warranty. even opening the case voids the warranty.

and how many 'little' mods have you recommended in the last 633 posts?

do you really think any manufacturer is going to allow their customers to open up their gear and modify it?

really?

These Lampi DAC's are almost like DIY projects as they are. Sure if it was all on a single board with SMT components it would be a different story. It's really more of a customization that should be offered from the factory already at this price point.


Here's a quote from the Lampi website:

"Every product can be upgraded in the future to any specs or level you desire. Any forgotten feature can be added later. After a product comes to our factory for repair or upgrade, we can negotiate “resetting” the warranty to new 3 years."

 

[audio.bill]

That quote from the Lampizator website in no way states or in any way implies that users are allowed to modify units and maintain their warranties.

 

[Blizzard]

That quote from the Lampizator website in no way states or in any way implies that users are allowed to modify units and maintain their warranties.

I understand that. But I'm sure if someone was really worried about the warranty, they could have this factory installed. Personally if it was mine, I'd care less about the warranty. It's a super simple DAC. If something broke it would be cheaper to fix locally than the shipping cost of sending it back to Poland for repair.

 

[microstrip]

I've experimented with lots of clocks. This is why I know 1st hand the difference clocks can make. With DSD, better clocks make an even greater difference. This is not a myth, it's common knowledge in the DAC business that lower jitter sounds better.

I am not so sure as you. IMHO and preference the best sounding CD spinners /DACs I have listened to (Metronome Kalista/Calypso C2A/C8) were not those with lower jitter.

IMHO in order to test your mods we have to have both the modified and unmodified units side for side for some time to listen. Even if after modification it sounds different, I would need some time and experience to know it is better sounding, not just different sounding. In all fairness, we do not know enough about your system and preferences to be able to appreciate your comments on sound quality.

I can easily accept that the analog part of the Lampizator is tuned for its digital part. Probably making changes in the digital can oblige to make changes in the tubes or passive components.

 

[Blizzard]

I am not so sure as you. IMHO and preference the best sounding CD spinners /DACs I have listened to (Metronome Kalista/Calypso C2A/C8) were not those with lower jitter.

IMHO in order to test your mods we have to have both the modified and unmodified units side for side for some time to listen. Even if after modification it sounds different, I would need some time and experience to know it is better sounding, not just different sounding. In all fairness, we do not know enough about your system and preferences to be able to appreciate your comments on sound quality.

I can easily accept that the analog part of the Lampizator is tuned for its digital part. Probably making changes in the digital can oblige to make changes in the tubes or passive components.

It's no secret that lower noise and jitter only has upside and no downside. Well I guess there is a downside, higher cost. But not by much. My experience with clock upgrades so far is the difference is so profound, it's noticeable immediately. You would especially notice right away with the GG as the Amanero uses much higher jitter clocks than most DAC's use that cost over $2000. The Amanero reclocker board was created for a reason.


If someone wanted an easier option that's much better than stock Amanero, and only costs $160, Amanero licences the product to a third party who makes the boards with Crystek 957 series clocks on them, improved voltage regs etc. Huge upgrade.

View attachment 23622


Here it is with the standard Amanero clocks. but you can see the pads are big so several clocks can be fitted on the board.

http://www.shenzhenaudio.com/amaner...ade-verion-usb-module-for-l-k-s-mh-da003.html

Crystek 957's:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CCHD-957-25-24.576/744-1457-ND/2742156

Here's an impression one guy had upgrading the stock amanero to this unit on his DAC:

"Sound impressions:

-Widens the already big soundstage of the MH-DA003, bringing a greater sense of breadth and depth.

-The wooly low-bass has been cleaned up, it is a lot more solid and defined, on the LCD-3F, the apparent weight of the bass is both heard and felt, there is an obvious visceral impact.

-This change is one step closer to the elimination of the ES9018 tizzy top end, with the new USB interface, the rendering of the clash of cymbals is clear with all the transients intact, without being overly bright.

-Overall more analog sounding, much of the digital etch and glare is gone."

 

[Audiocrack]

Hi Rudolph,

I believe that the new r2r PCM implementation (based on listening last night) is a significant improvement over my original PCM engine. I experienced:

> Great vividness and much more presence
> Signficantly more resolution
> More dynamic and propulsive bass

Together these bring it very close to the dsd performance but I still need a lot more listening time to draw final conclusions. The dsd engine always had this spooky clean resolution of the finest details yet with musicality and tone to die for - this PCM engine achieves the same trick. I am so thrilled because it opens up new options regarding necessity of upsampling to dsd of which I was a proponent - I need more time in order to reach any final conclusion but either way I am *very* happy. Hats off to Lukasz.

Very good to hear that we agree on a big step forward. I listened about 4 hours and cannot listen this week due to a very heavy workload. So like you I need more time to reach final conclusions but that the new pcm application is a big plus is quite clear. Thanks for your feedback and I am looking forward to your new review for positive-feedback.

 

[Audiocrack]

Blizzard,

I believe you are trying to be of help. and likely what you are recommending could make some positive improvement to the performance. but continuing to push people to modify their new 'under warranty' gear and blindly proclaiming improvements is wearing thin. there are so many bad things that can happen when even reasonably competent amateurs start messing around with otherwise good performing new gear. and you suggest all these 'fixes' with so little caution or qualification.

we can't have a thread on new digital without you telling us why it's not current. I guess it's the degree of your approach not so much the idea of it I'm commenting on.

maybe we should give you a sub-forum to push people who want to 'hot-rod' new gear.

I got to say I'm impressed with your energy level. a few days ago you said you are a man on a mission. no doubt!!!!!

I don't speak for anyone but myself. my 2 cents, YMMV and all that stuff.

+ 1. Please lighten up a little Blizzard: we are only exchanging views on a hobby, not religion. You have made your point(s) so let us move on and get back to the topic of this thread.

 

[Blizzard]

+ 1. Please lighten up a little Blizzard: we are only exchanging views on a hobby, not religion. You have made your point(s) so let us move on and get back to the topic of this thread.

I'm just sharing inexpensive ways to get better performance out of your DAC. I don't see why this should offend anyone.

 

[Mike Lavigne]

I'm just sharing inexpensive ways to get better performance out of your DAC. I don't see why this should offend anyone.

have you ever purchased a new $20k piece of electronics, then modified it, voided the warranty, and then tried to sell it?

how'd that work out for you?

you've never done that?

didn't think so. welcome to the real world.

what a surprise.

if you are buying entry level digital gear and trying all your mods that is one reality. but big boy gear is a different ball game. you cannot just wing it.

I'm not arguing performance; I'm speaking of value retention......which one has to keep in mind. there has to be an end game. the problem for the owner of the modded gear won't be yours, it will be a problem for the guy who owns it.

 

[Audiocrack]

I'm just sharing inexpensive ways to get better performance out of your DAC. I don't see why this should offend anyone.

I am not claiming you offended anyone Blizzard, I am only asking now that you made your point(s) on this thread to let it go and move on. I am sure that if some GG owners are interested in your ideas, they will think about it seriously. But some owners are likely not interested for all kind of reasons and that is equally fine.

 

[Blizzard]

have you ever purchased a new $20k piece of electronics, then modified it, voided the warranty, and then tried to sell it?

how that work out for you?

you've never done that?

didn't think so. welcome to the real world.

what a surprise.

if you are buying entry level digital gear and trying all your mods that is one reality. but big boy gear is a different ball game. you cannot just wing it.

The beauty of this mod is it can be easily restored back to stock, if the person who want's to buy it prefers higher jitter and noise. It's almost like changing out a sound card in a PC. Or changing wheels on a car. I suppose having it done by Lukasz would have a better ring to it though. But who knows what he would charge.