Holostages - critical review

I share your pain.

I'm in a new townhouse after a major downsizing.

Sharing the electric grid with an attached neighbor and 48 other townhouses.

Controlling the electrical affects on my system are a real challenge so far.
 
I’d leave the Puritan City Master hooked up too — but I’d try with and without. I’ve got a Puritan Ground Master and was surprised to find it sounds better without it.
Good questions. Not to dodge, but it is a bit like asking how much speaker toe in is best. I like a lot of toe to get a deep stage with a lot of focus. Most guys (to judge by pictures anyway) have them more straight ahead. I never could understand that, but to each his own.
So just like speaker toe there really is no substitute for try and hear. Only in this case keep in mind no matter where they are in the room they are having an effect. In fact the only way to truly A/B is to remove them completely to another room far away. Anywhere in the room they are having an effect. I'm not telling you anything you won't notice on your own, just saving you some time and trouble because it is so hard to believe even when you hear it you will tell yourself "this can't be". But it is.

So anyway here goes. Like the guy above already said Holostages sort of pull the soundstage towards wherever they are. In addition to this they have a very powerful effect on electronics. Sometimes maybe even a little too much. Placed directly on electronics (amp, DAC, phono stage, etc) they tend to add a lot of weight and fullness, great for some gear that might tend to the grainy etched side. I loved em right on top of my Strain Gauge when it was brand new, but a month later when it had smoothed out this was too much.

At the same time it is not just the component being affected, but the whole soundstage. In the same way it helps envelop by putting them all around the room it pulls the stage towards them even when sitting on a component. If you have a lot of gear in between the speakers you might try one about 3 ft up on the center front wall where it will get the soundstage and the components all at once, with another one on the back wall. Just a suggestion. You might also try them one on each side wall somewhat in front of your speakers, or directly off to your side. Rooms and systems and listeners are so different all I really can say is what I just did, some general info to help save a little time but ultimately your results come down to how much time you want to spend trying vs enjoying. Because bottom line just about anywhere they make a fantastic "you are there" type improvement.
 
Thank you again for the feedback and advice. I will begin placing in various positions and see where it takes me. I have a feeling I may end up getting 4 more to gain adequate coverage. I just added several of the new Vicoustic Vic Pattern Wavewood mkII panels to tame the first and second reflection points, so adding the Holos should be an interesting experiment. Thank you again.
 
I recently received a Ground Box Booster. I've doubled it on the input of my QKore6. I tried it on each component connection of the QKore6 (preamp, DAC, music server) as well as the connection for the QB8 power strip. Because I only have one GBB and dual mono amp, I didn't place it on either of the amplifier connections.

I heard improvement through all connections, but in my system the QKore connection hosting the preamp was significantly better.

Bottom line...the device works.

I also received four Holostages, and I've noticed improvement with them as well. I'll be experimenting with positioning this week, and look forward to providing an update.

As others have said, dealing with Krissy is a pleasure.
 
As I was listening earlier today, I received the message above from ptman. It motivated me to try the ground box booster on my Puritan Route Master (which connects my preamp, DAC and mono amp) to a Puritan City Master. I compared this to connecting the GBB to my Puritan 156 conditioner (with and without the City Master). I was expecting to have better results with the 156 connection, since power connections typically yield the best results in my system. I was wrong. Connecting the GBB to the Route Master (which is connected to the City Master Ground), sounded the best. Thank you pyman for describing your test results with the QKore.
 
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I am updating my comments with a visual of how I am using my 8 Holostage. I also placed the Heartsound Fuse Box on my fuse box panel about a week ago. Wow!

I previously had all of my Holostage on my Components in my Audio rack, plus one each on my crossovers. After experimenting with different placements, I have come to my nirvana in my system. I kept the two on my crossovers for my Aurora speakers, which are in the corners. I then placed two about 5 feet in front of the speakers, but they are closer together. This may be the key for me as they are only about two feet apart in the middle of the room. Then, I have two behind me on the counter, directly in line with the speakers. Finally I have two up high on top of a cabinet directly pointing to the speakers.

The crossover height is 14", the front table height is 24", the counter behind me is 36" and the cabinet height is 10'.

This produced the best sound for my system. But maybe I might be missing the effect of the Fuse Box that I placed on my fuse panel. Or maybe the combination of both elevated my music. Whatever, everything sounds great.
Long time Miller!
 

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As I was listening earlier today, I received the message above from ptman. It motivated me to try the ground box booster on my Puritan Route Master (which connects my preamp, DAC and mono amp) to a Puritan City Master. I compared this to connecting the GBB to my Puritan 156 conditioner (with and without the City Master). I was expecting to have better results with the 156 connection, since power connections typically yield the best results in my system. I was wrong. Connecting the GBB to the Route Master (which is connected to the City Master Ground), sounded the best. Thank you pyman for describing your test results with the QKore.

I'm curious to know about your Routemaster's main ground connection (the one on the side)-- Have you got that connected to your City Master, 156 Power Conditioner, or to the wall?

(For those who aren't familiar with the Puritan Routemaster-- it's a ground bus bar for star-grounding your entire system.)
 
Here is a screenshot from Shunyata's ground block on how to test for ground continuity, so you can know what to ground and what not to ground. I have owned a number of Shunyata products and like their stuff, and in the past have always found their products to be effective and its safe to say I'm a Shunyata fan. That said, I like Krissy's ground block better... it provides more bang, and for less buck. Even still, Shunyata has some excellent materials and I figured I'd share them here as it may be helpful for anyone wanting to star ground to a ground block.

Shunyata recommends starting with a single binding post and just star ground everything to that first. You'll get a lot of improvement by star grounding even without a ground block booster. Then when you add your ground block booster you'll be able to tell how much of that benefit could have been had from a 99 cent binding post without the ground block booster, and how much of that benefit is actually from the ground block booster itself. Use cables of equal length and impedance, and connect every component chassis and one signal connectors from every component that shows ground continuity. Again, please remember that each system can be unique and testing for ground continuity can help take some of the guesswork out of it. So far as where to connect your main ground output, (like Labpro found) try a few different options.
Screenshot 2025-02-25 at 11.04.58 AM.png
 
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Hi Halydean,

I have the main ground on the Puritain Route Master, connected to the Puritan City Master.......which is plugged into the wall.

I also have a Torus AVR that I use as a seperate power conditioner, just for my 2 REL T9x subs.

After experimenting with the Ground Box Booster (only for a few hours), I felt that Krissy's device was best on my Torus ground instead of the Puritan 156 or Route Master.

I have an old Entreq Silver Telus that I tried on the Puritan Route Master for the first time, and was pleasantly surprised by the result even with a simple ground cable versus the expensive Entreq Apollo cable.

Based on forum feedback, the ground box booster really needs a week to break in, so I may put it back on the Puritan Route Master for a full week.
 
Hi Halydean,

I have the main ground on the Puritain Route Master, connected to the Puritan City Master.......which is plugged into the wall.

I also have a Torus AVR that I use as a seperate power conditioner, just for my 2 REL T9x subs.

After experimenting with the Ground Box Booster (only for a few hours), I felt that Krissy's device was best on my Torus ground instead of the Puritan 156 or Route Master.

I have an old Entreq Silver Telus that I tried on the Puritan Route Master for the first time, and was pleasantly surprised by the result even with a simple ground cable versus the expensive Entreq Apollo cable.

Based on forum feedback, the ground box booster really needs a week to break in, so I may put it back on the Puritan Route Master for a full week.
Maybe the best place to put the Ground Box Booster is wherever you happen to have the most ground noise. Will be interesting to hear where the Ground Box sounds best after things have had time to burn in.

Regarding the simple ground cable sounding better than the Entreq Apollo,... I wonder if the ground cable has more to do with a simple matter of impedance? Every time I've experienced an upgrade in ground cable sound it's been with a lower impedance cable, whether fine silver with forged silver terminations or cheap copper. Maybe simple low impedance wins on ground cables? I wonder if it would be a worthwhile experiment to just buy some highly flexible 4 gauge silicone insulated welding cable and string everything up with that.
 
You bring up a very good point. The simple ground cable I’m using with the Entreq, is some left over ground cable from my REL subwoofers. I had to shorten the Speakon cable (which is copper solid core) and for fun I soldered silver spades on both ends.

Since RELs often need to be positioned far from the system components, I’ll bet that ground cable has very low capacitance.
 
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I've had the Holostages (4) in my room for about 3 weeks. I started with the recommended layout of one in each corner, 4 feet off the ground. I noticed the effects of the device in a broadening of the overall space. I left them in this configuration for a couple weeks to be sure it wasn't just confirmation bias, and was convinced that the improvements were there. Over that time I removed them, placed them back in, etc...

This week, I began experimenting with positioning and employed GlowState's recommendation of 2/3 vertical height of the room, placed in the front corners, and on the side walls 1/2 the distance between speakers and listening position as the final position (in my room this is 80 inches high in a 120 inch high room, 100 inches out in a 210 inch long room. Speakers are 56" from front wall). This produced a significant overall improvement with the soundstage noticeably lifted and brought slightly forward/deepened.

Also, the Ground Box Booster continues to bring smiles. Greater air between instruments, stronger imaging, improved distinction of some low-level elements...for example, on Jimmie Vaughan's "Like a King" from the CD "Out There" (one test track I use with system changes) there are a lot of studio backgound whoops and hollers from band members, particularly during his solo. This wasn't distinct prior to the GBB, though it had become more noticeable after I put the QKore6 into the system last year. As stated earlier in this thread, I doubled the GBB into the QKore outlet hosting my preamp (after comparing with QKore connections for the DAC, music server and distribution block, this held the most significant impact).

Thanks, GlowState!
 
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I am updating my comments with a visual of how I am using my 8 Holostage. I also placed the Heartsound Fuse Box on my fuse box panel about a week ago. Wow!

I previously had all of my Holostage on my Components in my Audio rack, plus one each on my crossovers. After experimenting with different placements, I have come to my nirvana in my system. I kept the two on my crossovers for my Aurora speakers, which are in the corners. I then placed two about 5 feet in front of the speakers, but they are closer together. This may be the key for me as they are only about two feet apart in the middle of the room. Then, I have two behind me on the counter, directly in line with the speakers. Finally I have two up high on top of a cabinet directly pointing to the speakers.

The crossover height is 14", the front table height is 24", the counter behind me is 36" and the cabinet height is 10'.

This produced the best sound for my system. But maybe I might be missing the effect of the Fuse Box that I placed on my fuse panel. Or maybe the combination of both elevated my music. Whatever, everything sounds great.
Long time Miller!
What did you settle on for Holostages on your ethernet switches? I'm curious to know anyone's findings on using them on switches, modem, router, bridge, et al.
 
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What did you settle on for Holostages on your ethernet switches? I'm curious to know anyone's findings on using them on switches, modem, router, bridge, et al.
In addition to the many well documented, wonderful improvements the holostages have contributed to the acoustics of the room, I discovered holostages gave the range of my router’s Wi-Fi a huge boost. I no longer have any dead zones in the house. I placed one holo on top of the Verizon FIOS router & attached one to the underside. Router is cylindrical in shape with a diameter slightly larger than holostage itself making it an ideal platform for such an application.
 
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The impact of Holostages on the listening experience is nothing short of astonishing. Initially, they almost overwhelmed me - placing 12 units across my system, including my router and modem, drastically altered the sound to the point where I barely recognized my setup. It was dark and dull and the soundstage was warped. Each slight repositioning created significant changes to a point it almost drove me crazy. I started removing units locking them far away in another room so they wouldn’t have an effect in the sound. In the end, I stripped down everything and started slowly from scratch.

After hours of trial and error, a clear pattern emerged:
- While placing the elements on components has an effect, their real magic lies in optimizing the room itself. Strategic placement transforms the entire listening environment.
- Each unit subtly pulls the sound toward its location. To maintain coherence, symmetry is essential; otherwise, an uneven placement can warp the soundstage to a disorienting degree.

Placement Strategy (I used nanotape so I can stick them anyplace)

First Step: Place one unit on the front and back wall at the top to expand vertical soundstage height. They must always remain in axis.

Second Step: Place two units on the sidewalls, midway between the speakers and listening position to enhance depth and pull the sound further into the room. Again, they must be in axis.

With these two steps my room „locked in“. From now on, I could place a fifth unit somewhere in the room without the drastic change of result and without the warping effect of the soundstage.

Lowering the height of all four Holostages helps find the optimal balance between body/darker timbre vs. airiness/treble energy. A higher position increases treble energy, stage height and airiness. A lower position increases body/weight, focus/smaller images and will lead to darker timbre. They must always remain in axis and at the same height for best results.

If more weight is needed, Holostages can be placed on top of gear. This increases body, but leading to a darker timbre and smaller images.

Holostages can drastically improve room acoustics and the listening experience by tuning the sound to one’s liking. However, achieving the best results requires a willingness to experiment. In my setup, randomly placing them on components only made things worse - but once properly positioned, the transformation was remarkable. With patience and careful placement, they will increase stage size and depth significantly and will make the music feel more alive than ever before.
I followed your advice and the improvements are tremendous. Every aspect of SQ is improved but spaciousness and dynamic ease are the most prominently displayed. Trying to push it farther I added a second Holostage behind me and improvement was slight. What I discovered accidently is that the second unit needs to be next too the first at approximately a 45 degree angle.It then doubles the impact (perhaps more than doubles). I did the same in the front placement and got a vast improvement in center image solidity and organization . 90 degrees does not work! Aware of placebo effect I tried each arrangent several times- consistent and not at all subtle.Have ordered more to do the same on the side placement locations.
 
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I followed your advice and the improvements are tremendous. Every aspect of SQ is improved but spaciousness and dynamic ease are the most prominently displayed. Trying to push it farther I added a second Holostage behind me and improvement was slight. What I discovered accidently is that the second unit needs to be next too the first at approximately a 45 degree angle.It then doubles the impact (perhaps more than doubles). I did the same in the front placement and got a vast improvement in center image solidity and organization . 90 degrees does not work! Aware of placebo effect I tried each arrangent several times- consistent and not at all subtle.Have ordered more to do the same on the side placement locations.
By 45 degrees? Kindly clarify.
 
What did you settle on for Holostages on your ethernet switches? I'm curious to know anyone's findings on using them on switches, modem, router, bridge, et al.
Meant to include this about holostage & router. They have almost all but eliminated EMF & RF noise emanating from the router when measured with an EMF meter like the 3 in 1 Tesmen.
 
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