How do you clean your stylus?
- Thread starter DaveyF
- Start date
It’s probably an easy task for experienced vinyl die hards like yourself, who have done it for many many yearsBut I am afraid to touch my stylus with a brush. It’s much easier to use the DS Audio cleaning pad.
Back to front gently I feel I can manage.
I don't know about replacing a brush as it does the same job. It is safe to use.
I use DS Audio ST-50 after both sides of a record and the Hifi Flux sonic cleaner after every listening session, it works for me and I have no intension in stopping using my DS Audio ST-50
Onzow ? Just say No.
J.R.Boisclair finds goop sticks and "very difficult to remove."
www.analogplanet.com
J.R.Boisclair finds goop sticks and "very difficult to remove."
Time to Put Away The Onzow ZeroDust?
These latest microscope photos from WAM Engineering LLC (WallyTools) offer dramatic evidence that the Onzow Zerodust leaves a stubborn, difficult to remove residue on "clean" styli as well as on cantilevers. It's a troubling discovery. This first photo shows an Onzow Zerodust "clean" stylus with...
www.analogplanet.com
Onzowgate continues...
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The ZeroDust Saga Continues
WAM's J.R. Boisclair, who provided the microscopic images responds to some of the comments under the original story. "I appreciate the robust conversation around the "gel-type" cleaners. I certainly don't have a dog in this fight other than continuing our research into how to get the most from...
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This carried over from the tima's DIY RCM thread to here ...
It's good you got off the goop.
Imo the tools I use are simple and relatively cheap:
1) a size 00 soft artist brush with a little stiffness to it
www.cheapjoes.com
2) a small bright LED flashlight that can stand up beneath the stylus:
3) a small 5X hand magnifier
4) a 20X loupe magnifier - ideally with something to hold it steady.
5) a piece of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (white only) on a small stick. I've always used the original cleaning pads; you can find on A'zon.
Technique here w/ photos:
www.whatsbestforum.com
It's good you got off the goop.
Imo the tools I use are simple and relatively cheap:
1) a size 00 soft artist brush with a little stiffness to it
Joe Miller Signature Series 50/50 Watercolor Brush - Round, Size 00
Our Joe Miller Signature Series 50/50 Watercolor Brush is an artist's dream come true. Half Kolinsky Sable and half Synthetic Nylon fiber, this watercolor brush points like a sable and springs back like a nylon brush.
www.cheapjoes.com
2) a small bright LED flashlight that can stand up beneath the stylus:
3) a small 5X hand magnifier
4) a 20X loupe magnifier - ideally with something to hold it steady.
5) a piece of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (white only) on a small stick. I've always used the original cleaning pads; you can find on A'zon.
Technique here w/ photos:
How do you clean your stylus?
I also use the Magic Eraser, but I very gently rub the stylus sides from back to front once or twice and occasionally dip the stylus before each play. I follow this with a dip into the Onzow to remove any residue or white dust from the ME. Stylus looks brand new and I've never had a problem...
www.whatsbestforum.com
This carried over from the tima's DIY RCM thread to here ...
It's good you got off the goop.
Imo the tools I use are simple and relatively cheap:
1) a size 00 soft artist brush with a little stiffness to it
Joe Miller Signature Series 50/50 Watercolor Brush - Round, Size 00
Our Joe Miller Signature Series 50/50 Watercolor Brush is an artist's dream come true. Half Kolinsky Sable and half Synthetic Nylon fiber, this watercolor brush points like a sable and springs back like a nylon brush.
Tim, it sounds like you prefer the soft artist brush to, let’s say, the Ortofon stylus brush?
Yes, I do prefer the soft artist brush. I have used similar to the Ortofon stylus brush (with the round head) but not for the last 5 years or so. I find it somewhat coarse, less effective and prefer not to drag it across the stylus.
The 00 artist brush mentioned at the link has a small amount of nylon bristles among the sable; that helps keep it stiff and pointed.
The trick for me is the 20X loupe - it yields a vivid clear image of the stylus and cantilever and will show dirt, dust, etc very well. Using that, I can pinpoint where the stylus needs cleaning then use the artist brush on that area while looking with the 5X hand magnifier. I will then re-check with the loupe. If there appears something firmly attached to the stylus the brush will not remove then I use the Magic Eraser which does an excellent job. There I just dip the ME onto the stylus using the hand magnifier, maybe 2-3 times. Then I will do a light touch with the brush. Moderately pains-taking, maybe a 2 minute ritual.
I find a clean stylus in a clean record stays cleaner and while I check with the loupe after each side, often no cleaning is needed.
Recently a friend’s EMT stylus is dropped off because of ultrasonic/vibration based cleaners. it’s not one hundred percent sure the culprit is the cleaner but I’m very skeptical about them.
That sounds like a great brush, and good advice. The Ortofon / pad style brushes go right into the trash, here.
A loupe is an important tool to have. I was using a Peak 10x lupe, which is barely passable at looking for globs of gunk on a stylus, and just picked up a nice Belomo Triplet 15x that is way WAY better in magnification and sharpness. I also have their 20x on order. I'm gonna love cleaning with the Belomo for inspection. But even with the 10x Peak you can see color change, when a stylus shank gets darkened / blackened over many hours of use without "enough" cleaning. The worst I've seen of this is a Koetsu Jade I bought used with 300 hours, and a Cadenza Bronze I bought "dealer demo" under 200 hours. The Cadenza was by far worse, ugh (it wasn't just refraction - I had a new one to compare) - looked like it had been working in the coal mines as a child. When I've bought brand new Koetsu, the stylus is so crystal clear from the side (refraction gives it more dark lines when viewed from the front) it's very hard to even see its outline. The Magic Eraser "rotational scrub" technique (after each session) keeps the stylus as close as possible to that new state (there is some minor darkening, but it is very very slight) - over 600 hours now on my Blue Lace. The gel dips alone absolutely won't achieve this. An occasional liquid cleaner could also be effective at keeping the stylus color "clear", but I haven't used them in years.
I'm a big proponent of combining ME with brushing. There is a LOT of variance in techniques for ME use...I'll leave it at that. But a simple dip & lift is extremely safe and at least somewhat effective. I don't yet buy into the Onzow / DS Audio gel fear, but against the ME and brushing they're the least effective, so it's easy to drop them from my routine. Sure, I guess it's possible they actually contribute towards the visible stylus "blackening"...not gonna happen here though, since I use the ME so much...hopefully we'll get some more firm evidence on that.
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I use both the DS Audio ST-50 and the Hifi Flux Sonic cleaner on my EMT JSD S 75, I have had zero issues.
What ultrasonic cleaner is your friend using? I used to have the Audio Technica AT-637 and that is a more aggressive cleaner than the Hifi Flux, but I still have to say I never had any issues with the Audio Technica either.
Last 4 for cleaning with brush, last 5 to seal the surface of the diamond. I use it over 10 years no problems
Last Formula 4 Stylus Cleaner 7ml + Formula 5 Stylast 7ml | eBay
Entdecken Sie Last Formula 4 Stylus Cleaner 7ml + Formula 5 Stylast 7ml in der großen Auswahl bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!
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I use this to ,it’s a good styus cleanerLast 4 for cleaning with brush, last 5 to seal the surface of the diamond. I use it over 10 years no problems
Last Formula 4 Stylus Cleaner 7ml + Formula 5 Stylast 7ml | eBay
Entdecken Sie Last Formula 4 Stylus Cleaner 7ml + Formula 5 Stylast 7ml in der großen Auswahl bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!www.ebay.de
Imo the missing step here is stylus and cantilever inspection. Magnification (10X minimum, 20X better) reveals the state of cleanliness and whether cleaning efforts are effective. The cantilever also can get quite dirty; I speculate that neither a hard bristle brush nor Stylast are optimal tools for cleaning a cantilever.
less dirt sticks to the diamonds and takes longer until the next cleaning. the playback noises are quieter maybe can also be imagination
That would be easy to test - just takes some recordings pre/post-cleaning and blind test using software such as Lacinato ABX.
I like the magic eraser and soft brush method. does a great job for me.
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