LampizatOr Golden Atlantic + TRP

[WildPhydeaux]

As for initiation- if I’m understanding you correctly I ALWAYS have to give the input selector a spin in order for the dac to find the input after startup- even when using the same input from the previous listen. It drives me crazy but it seems that’s just the way it works.

Really? Have others reported that experience as well? When you say give the input selector a spin, does that mean yours is one with a rotary knob on the back or do you mean metaphorically? I can only change input selection using the remote. And it has never not been on the input I left it on previously.

Cheers,
Robert

 

[msimanyi]

Has anyone here tried any type of USB reclocking/regenerating device (like the Ideon Audio 3R USB Renaissance) upstream of their LampizatOr Atlantic TRP? I'm using a Mac Mini as my source and am guessing that it would be good to clean the USB signal up a bit before it gets to the Lampi. Thanks in advance!
Chris

I haven't pulled the trigger on it, but I'm considering doing something a bit unusual for output from my M4 Mac Mini. It's definitely a step up on the budget from the Ideon 3R device you mention, but it doesn't seem obscenely expensive at the most basic level.

JCAT USB Evo card
Sonnet case, though I think the SEL case could work too. I believe the Evo USB card is a low-profile configuration.

Add in an external 5V power supply like this for the card, or get crazy and go for an even higher-end supply.

I believe the case is configured for an external 12V power supply. Not sure if there would be improved performance from an audio-oriented power supply for the case, but it *seems* like that could help.

If you really want to break the budget, there's also this master clock upgrade for another 1,400 Euro.

 

[WildPhydeaux]

Or you could get an actual streaming transport...

Cheers,
Robert

 

[msimanyi]

Sure. But since I'm doing this for a BACCH DSP for Mac system, not really an option. Plus it's a fun exploration...

Edit: And I already have a Grimm MU1.

 

[Designsfx]

Really? Have others reported that experience as well? When you say give the input selector a spin, does that mean yours is one with a rotary knob on the back or do you mean metaphorically? I can only change input selection using the remote. And it has never not been on the input I left it on previously.

Cheers,
Robert

Hey there!
I’m not sure about the experience of others but on my TRP3 (balanced/no volume) I have the rear selector switch. Regardless of what power up sequence is used (streamer/cd then dac or reversed) the dac does not seem to sense the input either on powering up the dac or the device. I always have to power up the device and then switch the selector away from the input it was previously at and then back again- it does it every time. My other dac is good to go as long as you’re using the same source for the next listen but not the Lampi. I can’t even count how many times it took me to get used to that as I would power up and sit back in the couch only to remember I had to get up again and switch the selector. It is what it is!

 

[msimanyi]

Hey there!
I’m not sure about the experience of others but on my TRP3 (balanced/no volume) I have the rear selector switch. Regardless of what power up sequence is used (streamer/cd then dac or reversed) the dac does not seem to sense the input either on powering up the dac or the device. I always have to power up the device and then switch the selector away from the input it was previously at and then back again- it does it every time. My other dac is good to go as long as you’re using the same source for the next listen but not the Lampi. I can’t even count how many times it took me to get used to that as I would power up and sit back in the couch only to remember I had to get up again and switch the selector. It is what it is!

@Designsfx I have the same configuration on my Atlantic TRP3. I'll test if mine behaves similarly. I always leave my streamer on (Grimm MU1), so it's entirely possible it's the same as yours and I never encountered the problem.

 

[Designsfx]

@Designsfx I have the same configuration on my Atlantic TRP3. I'll test if mine behaves similarly. I always leave my streamer on (Grimm MU1), so it's entirely possible it's the same as yours and I never encountered the problem.

Yes- please do. I always power everything down when I leave and usually start the preamp/power amp and dac 30 minutes or more before I plan to listen. My server and streamer are off until I go to listen. When I power these devices I would expect the dac to automatically sense the input of each of these devices but it does not. My Aqua dac does- which is why I found this behavior strange. Let me know how yours behaves.

 

[msimanyi]

I just re-read your earlier post. It sounds like even if you had the source powered on, then power on your DAC, you still have to switch the input selector to "engage" the DAC.

If I'm correct about that, mine doesn't behave that way. All I do is power on the DAC and start playing music. It just works, whether my input is the XLR AES input or the USB input. (My USB button is on the front, so I leave the selector set to the AES connection and just toggle the front button to switch between the two. Not sure if your DAC is the same.)

I'd reach out to either Lampizator USA if you bought it here, or perhaps to Lampizator directly to see if they can fix it. You might inquire if there are any engine upgrades for your unit too, so you get an added benefit for living without it for awhile. If you already have Engine Eleven though, I believe that's current.

One last thought - if you power on your source, leave it on for a couple minutes, then power on the DAC, do you still have to change inputs to engage the DAC?

 

[Designsfx]

@msimanyi-
So the only thing missing between all of this (on my end) is leaving the streaming transport and/or music server powered on all the time- and of course leaving the rotary switch alone to see if music plays immediately after power up.

I don’t think I’ve ever done this to be honest because I can’t stand the way the system sounds from a cold start- I have to give it at least a 20 minute warmup before listening.
I could try it though- just to see if it does in deed work. But that would really only provide an advantage if I were willing to leave the other components on all the time.

I did ask this question to Fred A shortly after receiving the dac and though he said he would check into it I don’t think the question was ever answered.

One thought that did occur to me was your mention of using the front button- which I’m guessing is to engage the USB input (mine is the same). Isn’t that kind of the same thing as what I was describing?

Looking back in time it seems that my dac may have been ordered shortly after yours was- at least it seems from going by your posts. I have a balanced Golden Atlantic TRP3 with engine 11 and I’m not aware of any updates that have been made available since its purchase about a year and a half ago.

 

[msimanyi]

I think this may help with info for you. I powered off the MU1 and the Atlantic was off. I even pulled the power cord from the MU1 to make sure it was *off*. Then I started the DAC, waited about 1 minute and started the MU1, which was set for Roon, and directing output via the XLR AES connection.

On my iPad I opened the Roon app and hit play, and everything started working. I believe you're saying your system *doesn't* work until you flip the selector switch (or perhaps push the USB button.)

I don't know if this helps, but here are a few screen shots from the MU1 browser interface. Maybe check some of your settings there?




This next one is just with the Source Settings and Advanced expanded:


I honestly doubt it's a configuration problem, but just to cover all the basics it's worth a quick check. Then I think you appeal to Lampi USA and/or Poland for a solution.

 

[Designsfx]

@msimanyi
So- mystery solved! This wasn’t an issue with the dac at all but rather one with me
I believe at some point I became programmed into performing this action of rotating the input because I don’t recall which source I was listening to previously- either night before or sometimes days past.
While performing each sequence this morning I found that the signal passed successfully as long as the input was set to the device I was trying to use. So thanks for inspiring me to pay closer attention to this.

 

[msimanyi]

Nice!

That’s a *lot* simpler issue. Glad you resolved it.

 

[Designsfx]

So I thought I’d put this one out there as I’ve just got it set up. Here’s my TRP3 running a quad of 2.5V tubes- Philco mesh 27’s. I was able to get the voltage interface finished this week but my first try was squashed by a bad tube. I received replacements today and am up and running. These old triodes are something completely different when compared to the others I’ve been using with this Dac. I’ll be getting thoughts together as I get more listening time with these but I can say having the ability to run varying voltage tubes is a great thing with the TRP. More to come…

 

[LampiNA]

To all WBFers at the Southwest AudioFest 2025 here in Dallas, we invite you to come hear the latest iteration of the Atlantic DAC, The TRP 3, fed by a LampizatOr Gulfstream server, in fantastic setup we are demonstrating with new show partners.

Please visit us in room 1107 as we exhibit this piece on Spatial Acoustics speakers alongside of the debut of Don Sachs latest amplifiers and matching preamp.

To say this system overshoots is pricetag is an understatement.

Hope to see some of you here!

Fred A.

 

[msimanyi]

I took a different direction for rectifiers. I email Lukasz asking if it was okay to use a very unconventional rectifier device. He said yes, so I placed an order for a Space-Tech Labs Super Tube Rectifier. the STR-1002.



I have 120 hours on the STR now. I’m still not sure how to express and convey how much of a positive impact this has had on my enjoyment of my system.



I’ve been having more fun, experiencing more joy and being overwhelming high on life since I’ve added the STR-1002 Super to my system. It could be it’s the last piece in a long journey to the sound I’ve been chasing for half my life.

I know I'm visiting an old post here, but @GroovySauce, can you add any more recent thoughts on the STR-1002 Super? It looks intriguing and your description of the improvements in your post (#2483 in this thread) sounds *extremely* interesting...

 

[GroovySauce]

@msimanyi I'm still really happy with it. On another forum there is a group of people who are mostly using the STR on preamps and all of them are happy with the unit.

I haven't tried this on the TRP, my brother found that say you really like a certain rectifier in your preamp. If you take the same rectifier use an adapter put the rectifier in the STR and then the STR to the preamp it sounds better! our guess is it's taking the heater current interference out of the preamp and there is an audible step up.

The flexibility of the STR is wild. Can run it in half wave mode or mix different tubes to create different sound signatures. I still think the 845s sound the best in the STR feeding the TRP. With adapters I've tried 300b, 2a3 and other tubes.

 

[msimanyi]

@msimanyiI still think the 845s sound the best in the STR feeding the TRP. With adapters I've tried 300b, 2a3 and other tubes.

Since you've done some rolling experiments and for your system settled on the 845s, which 845 tubes do you like for the unit?

 

[Designsfx]

If you take the same rectifier use an adapter put the rectifier in the STR and then the STR to the preamp it sounds better! our guess is it's taking the heater current interference out of the preamp and there is an audible step up.

Groovy-
This is an interesting comment. I can’t say that I know what is going on as I don’t have an STR but I did notice a lower noise floor when using an off board power supply to run the heater filaments in lower voltage tubes. It’s either a real thing, my imagination or just the fact that 90+ year old 2.5V mesh triodes are exceptionally quiet.
I’ll do more comparisons over time but I had actually made note of this when describing the sound shortly after the initial setup.

 

[GroovySauce]

Since you've done some rolling experiments and for your system settled on the 845s, which 845 tubes do you like for the unit?

I've been running one Linlau 845DG and one Linlai 845-T one of the 845DG started to chatter and I swapped in the 845-T I prefer the sound of a pair of 845DG.

The Linlai E-845 are very nice too. My brother has a pair and I've tried them it's been a while so don't remember the exact differences between the 845DG and E-845. I did just order a pair of Shuguang Natural Sound 845-T. I've been loving the Shuguang Natural Sound 6CA7-T in the TRP.

I can’t say that I know what is going on as I don’t have an STR but I did notice a lower noise floor when using an off board power supply to run the heater filaments in lower voltage tubes. It’s either a real thing, my imagination or just the fact that 90+ year old 2.5V mesh triodes are exceptionally quiet.

When you posted about your 2.5v tubes I was wondering if part of why you were getting the sound you were was because of the off board power supply. Maybe both?

 

[Pollux]

Hello, I'm new to this forum but for a long time in this noble hobby .As a happy owner of Lampizator Golden Atlantic TRP for more than 3 years (thank to @Golum), I want tot express my observation on above mentioned subject. In my humble opinion, for my system at least, best combination of tubes for Lampi TRP (tried at leat 30 combination) are as follows:

1. U18/20 rectifier (any brand), EL 12 spec Telefunken output

2. U 52 Brimar rectifier, F2a11 Siemens output

3. USAF 596 rectifier, Tesla 4654 (very close to this is Tesla EL51) output

I just recently acquired EL 34 Winged plates single O getter par Ulm, and same but double O getter by Telefunken, so I will test in next few weeks both options with different rectifiers. Different options showed In att.

Cheers Boris