Thanks,.. I'm using NUC/ROCK > USB > Atl-TRP.. With my previous DAC (PS Audio DSD), the various inputs were pretty much all rendered the same in terms of SQ due to the complete reconstruction of the incoming Data/clock. I originally had the NUC/Rock on the router and used an Aries Mini as a streamer into the Lampi but it just didn't sound right,. something was a bit off. I moved the ROCK to the Lampi yesterday for a direct connection and it made a huge improvement. Just got me wondering about how sensitive the Lampi was with the incoming signal.
LampizatOr Golden Atlantic + TRP
- Thread starter Golum
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I've found the less there is between the source and the TRP the better. I even just plug it into the wall now instead of using a power conditioner. Feels right.
Depends on the SQ of the USB output IMO. I did a comparison between an Antipodes EX with direct USB output to the TRP. The SQ was on the same level as an USBridge, the USBridge Sig with a LPS is my current favorite with a Calisto cord. Roon core is on a .Mac Mini, a Bonn N8 serves as a switch.
I've had my TRP for just over a week now so am starting to get the hang of the sound it makes with various tubes. However I have just received a Psvane ACME 274B regulator today so I'll hold off commenting until I've had a chance to listen to that properly. For those of you who have used this rectifier how long did it take to "burn in"?
David Whistance
David Whistance
Mine took somewhere between 75 and 100 hours. I didn’t take notes but little has changed. I got it back late in December and figure by early January I had that many hours. Since that time I switch between it and the Kr 5u4g RK regularly. Hope that helps.
Thank you both. I use the DAC for listening to internet radio during the day so thankfully the hours build up quite quickly. I do hope it is nearer to 100 than 300 hours though. At the moment after maybe 10 hours I am liking the sound of the TRP with the Psvane ACME 274B/GEC KT66 combination very much, it's just very slightly restrained with some female voices but otherwise near perfect, for me at least. With these valves it's a big upgrade over the Atlantic Plus already.
David Whistance
David Whistance
A quick question for Highstream or indeed anyone else who knows, could you tell me what size and current fuse to use in the TRP please? I have the urge to try a Synergistic Research Orange rather than the AMR that is installed at the moment. I think for 230v it is 20mm, 1A but I'm not sure and don't want to but the wrong one! Many thanks. David Whistance
My thinking is that the answer depends on what you have between wall and TRP and how many outputs from the dac you're using. I have a PS Audio regenerator, so I have more flexibility, i.e., much less chance of blowing from an external surge. In the States, Lampi suggests 2A, but Lampi NA suggested going up to 3.15A to be safe, so that's the Orange I'm using. Some tubes start faster than others, so the initial surge will be higher. Likewise, more outputs seem to need more as well. At least that's what happened with my Supratek tube preamp's PSU. It requires at least 2A, so I had a 2.5A Orange in there and when I added a second pair of output ICs the fuse blew. I now have a 5A there, although a 4A would be technically better, but the larger one was what came up first on the private market. From what little I know of 230 volts, with one output I suspect a 1.6A Orange would do fine. But if you're running two outputs, then I'd go up to at least 2A. But even with one output, if the TRP is more protected, then a 2A would likely be safe if that's what you come across. If it was an Audio Magic fuse, then a 1A would be ok, but SR's aren't built to industry spec.
Hah! To simplify:
- For 230V, normally 1A, if the fuse is made to industry specs (e.g., most, including Audio Magic and HiFi Supreme)
- With SR Orange/Blue/Black which aren't made to spec, use 1.6A minimum and maybe a bit more if two set of outputs are used, to be safe
- With a regenerator or power conditioner with very good surge protection inline, one can risk "erroring" more to the high side, if necessary.
- If the tubes have high current draw immediately upon start up (vs. slower start up), then consider the "bit more" option. If you don't know, don't sweat it.
- For 230V, normally 1A, if the fuse is made to industry specs (e.g., most, including Audio Magic and HiFi Supreme)
- With SR Orange/Blue/Black which aren't made to spec, use 1.6A minimum and maybe a bit more if two set of outputs are used, to be safe
- With a regenerator or power conditioner with very good surge protection inline, one can risk "erroring" more to the high side, if necessary.
- If the tubes have high current draw immediately upon start up (vs. slower start up), then consider the "bit more" option. If you don't know, don't sweat it.
I have been using a Haltron 5R4GY/CV717 Double Mica rectifier and it is very nice. I totally forgot that I bought a pair of Electro-Harmonix 6CA7 in December with the Gold Lion KT66s that I had in for a bit. Never even tried the 6CA7s until today. So far so good. Anyone else use them?
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I have the psvane 6CA7 T2’s and with my Acme 274b I agree with your assessment. With the KR5u4g RK the sound is a bit less forward and fuller. So, both are excellent choices for rock, especially oldies like Led Zeppelin. The Gold Lion KT66’s are even more fuller, almost like tone controls. I am trying to find enough time to complete a full evaluation. Aside from rock, I like jazz, some big band types of music, blues and the very relaxing female vocals. The latter is for decompressing after a day with grandkids. more later. Cheers
The KT66s in my system are more refined, provide more detail seemingly. I listen to an eclectic mix of rock, old school and nwe jazz, dj dance/electronica, old funk and soul, and even classical. So I’m all over the place. I love popping in new tubes and going “ohhh”. I just haven’t figured out which tube goes with which music. I’m a little lazy for writing detailed notes. Leave that to you, Ed.
Are the TRP's OEM feet Stacore or Bazodrut or ...? My TRP is on the bottom shelf of a Salamander Designs wood cabinet, but the floor under the carpet is fairly active, and the OEM feet weren't nearly sufficient. I've been using three Marigo RHX Mystery feet, the previous model that I got as old stock from the developer, and they are very good. But tonight, I was trying A/V RoomService EVP's under the TRP and not finding them quite as clean as the Marigo's, whether I used three or four, so I decided to put them directly under the OEM feet. What followed was a complete transformation, of the same magnitude that occurred a few weeks ago when I replaced Gaia III's with EVPs under my ATC active speakers. I have to think that the OEM feet are playing a bit role in that improvement, and am wondering what they are. Thanks,
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