Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread
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Golden Atlantic TRP 3 with quad of 60’s Sylvania 6BQ6GT and Sophia Aqua 274B. These smaller beam power tubes were originally used in TV’s. They produce a very natural sound yet with less brightness of others. Air and upper end detail is still present but slightly rolled off. Very quiet dark backgrounds.
Thanks.
The UST projector is a pure pleasure. No need for privacy on it. Whilst the picture in my shot does it no favours, I have it ultra dialed in now. Absolute to the millimetre precision is where it is at here. It's performing way better as the quality of the source i.e. the internet is catching up with what it is able to do.
It's just a 2500 Lumens Chinese job from a bit more than a couple of years ago with an ALR screen.
Like nearly all of my kit it needs a play with so I will be taking it apart soon. Best on market cooling fan is required I think.
We find it a source of massive pleasure. So many visual / musical gems out there on the web if you spend the time to look.
For those with audio only systems it's a mistake. Wake up visuals really do count for a lot and as an owner of 3 OLEDs I feel laser projectors look a lot more natural and can do all important scale with ease.
Just better, really, overall. But you have to have the space which is a bit of a shitter if you haven't.
Another question surrounding this post- is there any issue with using a 4v tube in any position on the Lampizator TRP? I’ve seen a few power and rectifier tubes from Philips that are 4v as opposed to 5 for rectifier or 6.3 for power. Would this be undesirable?
You will need an adapter with a resistor to suit the heater current as well as to fit the B4 format base used by the majority of 4v tubes from the 30s/40s
Got it- are these adapters commonly available? I’ve used the typical Xuling made stuff so far but hadn’t noticed anything that called out specifics for 4v to others.
Need to choose your exact valve (majority are 2amp / 2004 spec)
One B4 RGN1064 2504 2004 1561 1504 AX50 PV200replace 5U4G GZ34 5AR4 tube adapter | eBay
What you see what you getï¼Teflon B4 socket. Every product will be tested before we send out.
www.ebay.com
I recently saw a set of Philips ABL1 pentodes for sale that I thought may be interesting but of course realized they are 4V/2.4A so I let it be. Also an AZ rectifier that falls into the same 4V category. If this adapter suits the application that would be great! Thank you for the info!
Right now it is the Tungsram pv4200 however it is an unusual one, having been made in the Vienna factory, rather than the regular Budapest barium getter version. Some feel the latter is as good as valvo G2504 however I have both types here and prefer the Vienna one. Not that that helps because it is nigh on unobtanium.
For cheap 5v thrills, the Brimar cv1863 is also fun though i feel less good than the Valvo az1. All these valves are quite cheap so you can buy a few to experience and see which works best with your output tubes / system / taste.
For cheap 5v thrills, the Brimar cv1863 is also fun though i feel less good than the Valvo az1. All these valves are quite cheap so you can buy a few to experience and see which works best with your output tubes / system / taste.
For basic decently made adapter see https://www.ebay.com/str/xulingaudiolabs. There’s also Marco in Italy on these forums (and eBay) who sells quality tubes and has a tech that custom makes adapters. However, the tech recently had a hand operation and is out of commission for a few more weeks (I’m awaiting one myself). I’m not sure if Marco would ok an adapter built separate from a tube sale though. Have to ask.
Not the nicest looking, but the design seems like it would make it easy to upgrade the resistors if desired.Need to choose your exact valve (majority are 2amp / 2004 spec)
One B4 RGN1064 2504 2004 1561 1504 AX50 PV200replace 5U4G GZ34 5AR4 tube adapter | eBay
What you see what you getï¼Teflon B4 socket. Every product will be tested before we send out.www.ebay.com
Marco and Laszlo are outstanding members of our tube community.
Look up the heater and pin specs and buy a voltmeter to run across the two heater pins.
Adaptors make it really easy to raise the tube to do this if your Lampi recesses the base.
Generally running on the heater specs does seem to produce the best results, funnily enough.
When you get into it, you realise what you want is variable heater control via potentiometers.
Decent tube guys can make this real at far lower cost than Lampi will charge you (really), have a look at what is in your Lampi, tell you whether he thinks it is shit or not, and get it generally sorted.
Don't get deluded here. It's just tube/valve electronics. Not Lampizator genius.
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