Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

I have been experimenting with different heater settings for the AD1 tubes, one of which tests very bad, and the results are somewhat confusing. @adamaley is experiencing this same result.

On the recommended PX25 setting there is a large channel imbalance caused by one of the AD1s not being in very good shape. However, if I switch to the 300B setting the channel imbalance goes away and the pair sounds great. My speakers image “perfectly” so I can tell based on the centering of the vocals. Also, I played a couple mono albums and there was no shift in the soundstage when I hit my pre-amp’s mono button.

Anyone care to explain why the AD1 seems fine on the 300B setting but not the PX25?
 
I will re-do the drum video tomorrow probably if the recorder still works. I dropped it in some liquid a while back and haven't used it since.

The recorder is scary, though. Recording my acoustic on it sounds better than the vast majority of commercial recordings. Really.

I'd rather re-do the crossover first TBH but hey it should still sound pretty good. Hopefully.
 
I have been experimenting with different heater settings for the AD1 tubes, one of which tests very bad, and the results are somewhat confusing. @adamaley is experiencing this same result.

On the recommended PX25 setting there is a large channel imbalance caused by one of the AD1s not being in very good shape. However, if I switch to the 300B setting the channel imbalance goes away and the pair sounds great. My speakers image “perfectly” so I can tell based on the centering of the vocals. Also, I played a couple mono albums and there was no shift in the soundstage when I hit my pre-amp’s mono button.

Anyone care to explain why the AD1 seems fine on the 300B setting but not the PX25?

Because the 101D setting is bollocks as I was trying to tell you. It isn't supplying enough current.

Why don't you measure it as I described? I figure you will see about 1 amp. Which is woefully inadequate.

I had the same problem with the two position switch when my DAC hadn't been modified. Low position didn't supply enough juice.

This is almost certainly the reason someone had a problem with my RDs.

That said even the 300B setting isn't adequate.
 
Because the 101D setting is bollocks as I was trying to tell you. It isn't supplying enough current.

Why don't you measure it as I described? I figure you will see about 1 amp. Which is woefully inadequate.

I had the same problem with the two position switch when my DAC hadn't been modified. Low position didn't supply enough juice.

This is almost certainly the reason someone had a problem with my RDs.

That said even the 300B setting isn't adequate.

I have avoided measuring it since I didn’t want to mess anything up.

Based on the attached photo which pins do I measure?

1597500491353.png
 
I have avoided measuring it since I didn’t want to mess anything up.

Based on the attached photo which pins do I measure?

View attachment 68333
The two thick pins.

It's different than I describe above as there's no adaptor being used.

That should give the heater 6 Watts. 8 is right but 6 is enough to get into work just about. But it isn't ideal.
 
Ok. I will measure the volts and amps on pins 1 and 4 on the 2 heater settings.
 
Bear in mind there's no way my premodded DAC supplied eight either but they still sounded fabulous.
 
That:s OK only if you do it under the adaptor for AD1.

That part is easy since I currently using a UX4 socket saver while I do all this tube rolling. I will take it out once I settle on something.
 
That part is easy since I currently using a UX4 socket saver while I do all this tube rolling. I will take it out once I settle on something.

Cool.

We all need to get to the bottom of this so please do post the results.
 
When I started to measure the amps I can hear a clicking sound in the DAC which I do not like. I am only touching the 2 cathode pins.
 
You mean through the speakers or in the DAC itself?

Turn the amp off if through the speakers.

You won't break anything but try to just touch the relevant pins only and you will be OK. Don't touch two together with the same probe.
 
The clicking sound was in the DAC and I could see the meter reading flipping around between 2A and maybe 0.

The rest of the system is off.
 
You definitely won't get 2A from either of those switch positions I would say.

Something isn't right there. What were you testing at the time? Maybe give up if you are worried

Can someone else do this who knows what they are doing please?
 
Look, all written here is an assumption.
I personally did send to LF tech sheets of mentioned tubes (ad1&RD) and he said use this and this heater setting.
I DO NOT plug into my personal DAC any tube type which is not pre checked/approved by him.
 
Look, all written here is an assumption.
I personally did send to LF tech sheets of mentioned tubes (ad1&RD) and he said use this and this heater setting.
I DO NOT plug into my personal DAC any tube type which is not pre checked/approved by him.

When you discussed the AD1 and RD tubes with LF what did he say?
 
When you discussed the AD1 and RD tubes with LF what did he say?
Well his reply is never - on this setting DAC provides xV and yA but rather - yes you can use it on this and this setting after seeing the tube spec sheet.
Now what You are experiencing i find really strange...as all those tubes work perfectly normal in my DAC and its a normal production model (meaning no tweaks requested/done on it)...
Did you try out RD?
 

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