Actually i didn’t - have like 4/5 pairs maybe and out of that i got like 3 pairs with my pre...
Same here. I have been using 1 pair for 4 months now.
Actually i didn’t - have like 4/5 pairs maybe and out of that i got like 3 pairs with my pre...
I’m expecting arrival of 01A to try them out - hope they deliver as well...
Will do for sure and I also got a pair of 46 but waiting for idiotic adapters for more then a month now...my grandmother in Zimbabwe would make them and bring them with Pony Express fasterLet us know.
I also still love the RK 5u4g rectifier a lotWell, the amps are dual mono, so one had the RK; the other a regular KR. So the effect is diluted. Also, the effect is lessened in the amp position compared to the dac, as you would expect. Sure, the RK is better in the amp in the same ways - better detail, more refined, and a grander presentation through the lower mid-range.
With old stock tubes escalating with every post here (it seems) the RK 5u4g is now a better value than before, if it suits your system. I look for linearity and resolution in my tubes (because the system has so many). Not trying to soften or add effect. This is where the KR tubes do well in a modern hi-res world. If I want soft and forgiving, I plug in my old GEC U52 and UX112a outputs.
Unfortunately for US, the USD exchange rate sucks right now.
I'm curious how you like themI’m expecting arrival of 01A to try them out - hope they deliver as well...
What kind of adapter is needed to use 6C4C in Lampi?I have to say this I think.
I really, really like 6C4C. No question about it. I think it's the best value for money new triode I have come across.
See a few pages back for more info anyone.
What kind of adapter is needed to use 6C4C in Lampi?
No it's the same tube.Is the 6S4S tube different?
01A: 5V; 0.25AAfter looking into many DHTs and what we can use, I decided to write here two specs for different tubes.
Having on Pacific and GG2, 5 position rotary switch which is adjusting heater circuit in the DACs with the numbers below we can I believe easier navigate through different tubes and maybe look for some alternatives in the wast world of DHTs. First number represents heater voltage and second is heater current per tube model.
Using the figures below you can for example see that rotary switch for regular ad1 should be set in PX4 position while for Tesla ad1n in PX25 position.
Maybe this should also be put in Pacific thread as it mostly relates to Pac and GG users.
If i made any mistake please correct me, as in several cases for one tube type i found a bit different numbers from different manufacturers.
Please note KR242 is spec wise not the same as Elrog 242.
PX25: 4V; 2A
RD27AS: 4V; 1.8-2.3A
PX4: 4V; 1.0A
ad1: 4V; 0.95A
ad1n: 4V; 2A
KR242: 4V; 0.65A
101D: 4.5V; 1.0A
45: 2.5V; 1.5A
300b: 5V; 1.2/3A
100T: 5V; 2.0A
842: 5V; 1.9A
Very vague try of the empire to strike backTMBF1. 4V 0.6A and a bit of a gamble I am not sure if I will be able to run that I'm just hoping I can.
The guy that sold me them included the cute blue Thompson-CSF PTT213F valves pictured, saying they were the best drivers for them.
Very nice of him, especially for the price he sold them to me for.
Will see if I can get them working well in about an hour
They are delightful to look at in the flesh with their unconventional approach. Really quite unique, though not totally. If they won't run I'm keeping them any