Pure Audio Project upgrades and tweaks

Starting this thread to discuss Pure Audio Project open baffle speakers, upgrades and tweaks. @Kingrex - if you have had both the horns and Coax10, I would be interested in hearing how they compare. And I copied your earlier post below.

What cables upgrades did you use? And can you share a picture of where you located the crossover? Is it attached to something else, or sitting on the floor? I was wondering about the height of the midrange/tweeter and if I should rake the front up. My system will be the Trio15 Coax10, Playback Designs MPS-8 source and Pass Int-25 amp. I'm still waiting for my walnut baffles to ship from RJ Millworkers.

You have to get the updated speaker cables. Its critical.

And , you have to separate the crossover from the frame. Again critical.

If the crossover is touching the frame, the music is very smeared from the intense physical vibration.

If you use stock, instead of upgraded cables, you loose life, air and bass. Less coherent.

The speaker is very good with these tweeks. You don't need to futz with any caps or reaistors with the Coax crossover.

You need to be patient. They take 500 hours like any speaker to break in. 2000 or a year to really be there. I actually put my coax in the basement connected to a class D amp and laptop for week and let it rip sitting on the floor. I would go dowm 3 or 4 times a day to switxh the album and volume.

Also, mine sit on a 9 inch tall very heavy block of wood that sits on fiberglass insulation. A rug would also work. Massive improvement in bass. Just shocking. And, it raises the center of the coax much closer to ear height. Otherwise its too low and like sitting in a balcony.

The fabric over the top keeps the sun from striking the driver. That is all its for.
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The coax compression is the tweeter????.
I also found putting the speakers on a dense 9" tall block helps the bass a lot. And it lifts the tweeter/coax more to ear level.

Did you get better cables from ceossover to drivers. Also, that crossover can't touch the frame. Its a disaster when it does. A horrible smear from the vibration.
 
Yes the compression driver in the Coax (Baymer).

I have 2 bass drivers below the coax, so the height is just right.

I am looking at copper ribbon cables. I have asked for a price from Verrastar.

I have the crossover on top of a thick granite sheet, on top of the speaker base. It is good, little vibration. I also glued many of the caps and resistors in place as you find in many subs. I can't have the crossovers outside the frames as no room left.
 
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