Has anyone done the math on Ron’s speakers by SPL based on specs at his seat to see how many watts he needs ?
I get the set concept and in reading this thread Ron seems to like the smaller amps.
my concern is small amps may have a perceived advantage based on various tonal changes due to the limitations of the amps being able to drive his towers and control them well
It can take two years or more to drastically change first impressions. So many owners never know what their equipment actually sounds like because they try, set it up without hearing it set up correctly elsewhere, then sell it off (Usually when they buy without listening). Underrun speakers (apogees were a prime example), overgripped speakers (Altecs a prime example), speakers oversized for their rooms, badly matched carts to arms or phonos, preamps not matching to poweramps....so many examples.
It can take two years or more to drastically change first impressions. So many owners never know what their equipment actually sounds like because they try, set it up without hearing it set up correctly elsewhere, thens ell it off (Usually when they buy without listening). Underrun speakers (apogees were a prime example), speakers oversized for their rooms, overgripped speakers (Altecs a prime example), badly matched carts to arms or phonos, preamps not matching to poweramps....so many examples.
Has anyone done the math on Ron’s speakers by SPL based on specs at his seat to see how many watts he needs ?
I get the set concept and in reading this thread Ron seems to like the smaller amps.
my concern is small amps may have a perceived advantage based on various tonal changes due to the limitations of the amps being able to drive his towers and control them well
Even easier would be if Ron would just measure the SPL at the speakers with pink noise and then again at the listening seat to see how many dB drop off it is. Then a more accurate assessment can be made.
Yes true but a line source drops off at 1/2 that of a point source
so should be 3 db instead of 6 db
Per 3 doubling the distance starting at 1 meter or 3 feet on center
next his seat is not direct
my point is smaller amps can be better but any given situational usage greatly effects outcome
Kedar sent me videos amazing sound on tiny amps
but this is the end result
Ron is at the start of his journey and im
Just curious if measurements were done based on my asking not just room freq
sound changes before clipping occurs and imp curves effect amps clipping as well.
if me big amps that he owns would be my choice and get best then try other smaller amps of so called musical wonders
next dare I say a well made SS amp lol. not a neutral one and one with less feed back but not dry sounding
most tube lovers never consider any SS amps period it’s sad to me
I’ve been in a room owner playing there tube amp
and I asked can you try your SS amp they had it there hooked very simple swap. the room came
Alive yet the owner looked at said yea but would never give up on his tube amps lol. Ron don’t become that guy hahahaha
next dare I say a well made SS amp lol. not a neutral one and one with less feed back but not dry sounding
most tube lovers never consider any SS amps period it’s sad to me
I am a tube amp lover but appreciate good-sounding SS amps. Including, gasp, good-sounding class D amps (yes, they do exist now, I am surprised, frankly).
That depends on the situation and coupled speakers. I just recently tried my little SS amp for an experiment (little, but with more wattage than my tube amp), yet the tube amp sounds more alive on my rather high-sensitivity speakers. On the other hand, in a friend's system the speakers became alive when switching from tubes to a high-powered SS amp. Again, it all depends, no blanket proclamations can be made.
It would be so easy if the rules were always simple. They aren't. Nonetheless, absolutist dogma, proclaimed by some posters, continues to have a strong presence on WBF.
Yes true but a line source drops off at 1/2 that of a point source
so should be 3 db instead of 6 db
Per 3 doubling the distance starting at 1 meter or 3 feet on center
next his seat is not direct
my point is smaller amps can be better but any given situational usage greatly effects outcome
Kedar sent me videos amazing sound on tiny amps
but this is the end result
Ron is at the start of his journey and im
Just curious if measurements were done based on my asking not just room freq
sound changes before clipping occurs and imp curves effect amps clipping as well.
if me big amps that he owns would be my choice and get best then try other smaller amps of so called musical wonders
next dare I say a well made SS amp lol. not a neutral one and one with less feed back but not dry sounding
most tube lovers never consider any SS amps period it’s sad to me
I’ve been in a room owner playing there tube amp
and I asked can you try your SS amp they had it there hooked very simple swap. the room came
Alive yet the owner looked at said yea but would never give up on his tube amps lol. Ron don’t become that guy hahahaha
Ron is that guy ! he is a tube guy from a philosophical point of view, he will try all tube amps in the world before he would lower himself to connecting SS. His goal is to become a SET guy like Brad. But he has the wrong speakers for such Puritanism !
Ron is that guy ! he is a tube guy from a philosophical point of view, he will try all tube amps in the world before he would lower himself to connecting SS. His goal is to become a SET guy like Brad. But he has the wrong speakers for such Puritanism !
Even easier would be if Ron would just measure the SPL at the speakers with pink noise and then again at the listening seat to see how many dB drop off it is. Then a more accurate assessment can be made.
This is easy, sure. I have the wonderful Reed SPL meter.
But I am not going to abdicate to an arbitrary equation my subjective preference for what I consider to be satisfying SPL (which, at 85dB to 92dB with 95dB peaks is higher than most audiophiles, but a bit lower than Don likes) and satisfying dynamics, plus a philosophical overlay about headroom. So the answer to your question doesn't have any practical or actionable significance to me.
Even easier would be if Ron would just measure the SPL at the speakers with pink noise and then again at the listening seat to see how many dB drop off it is. Then a more accurate assessment can be made.
Ron is that guy ! he is a tube guy from a philosophical point of view, he will try all tube amps in the world before he would lower himself to connecting SS. His goal is to become a SET guy like Brad. But he has the wrong speakers for such Puritanism !
I don’t agree they are the wrong speakers, especially because bass is active. The ribbon has an easy impedance with virtually no variability with frequency. Being a line source it has a long throw so that SPL is not dropping off as fast or is as room dependent. So, all that adds up to moderate demand on the amp…go for quality not quantity.
This is easy, sure. I have the wonderful Reed SPL meter.
But I am not going to abdicate to an arbitrary equation my subjective preference for what I consider to be satisfying SPL (which, at 85dB to 92dB with 95dB peaks is higher than most audiophiles, but a bit lower than Don likes) and satisfying dynamics, plus a philosophical overlay about headroom. So the answer to your question doesn't have any practical or actionable significance to me.
Bass is active, so we are basically talking about a large BG planar magnetic driver. The specs on that driver are pretty accurate as is the impedance (about 6 ohms.). There are some Mundorf AMTs for uppermost frequency assist (not really needed IME with these drivers…but whatever). As it is basically a resistor, it is probably more accurate than most to make a calculation that then gives a reasonable estimate of power demand…don’t need to be 6 decimal places accurate for this.
