I agree.Loudness and drive are different things
It is. The driver is easier to drive than we (except Brad) all assumed.and this assumes the ribbon is easier to drive as a driver
I agree.Loudness and drive are different things
It is. The driver is easier to drive than we (except Brad) all assumed.and this assumes the ribbon is easier to drive as a driver
Which one would that be?
RonI suspect that the passive crossover clamps down the native efficiency of the ribbon on Pendragon (judging from my own 75 Wisdom/BG, which I estimate in direct input at better than 93 db efficiency) quite a bit, so a lot of amp power may wind up creating heat in that passive crossover rather than sound. However, that may also add protection as well as crossover for the delicate ribbons.
With the cooler evenings, I have put the Wavacs back on the ribbons and, oh my, I forgot what magic they render, even with all of the great SS amps of lower power I have. 15 watt 811a on the 75 inchers, the nominal 572 50 watt (probably more like 36 to 40) on the bass panel.
With their ability to elevate even micro sounds to lit up palpability, a Wavac on a flat impedance ribbon could be the next best thing to horns for classical (and that soundstage, wow).
Bass is active, so we are basically talking about a large BG planar magnetic driver. The specs on that driver are pretty accurate as is the impedance (about 6 ohms.). There are some Mundorf AMTs for uppermost frequency assist (not really needed IME with these drivers…but whatever). As it is basically a resistor, it is probably more accurate than most to make a calculation that then gives a reasonable estimate of power demand…don’t need to be 6 decimal places accurate for this.
That is if you trust the power meters presenting anything but bombast display.
Nelson Pass says he has a real power meter that measures all parameters, including current draw, not just voltage needle swings.
He said that when he has played (albeit mid\low 90's efficiency) speakers very loud for listeners, he would ask them how much power they were hearing. He said they would guess incorrectly on the high power side and would be surprised when his own real power meter showed things seldom exceeded the first watt.
Which maybe why his own creative enterprise was named First Watt.
I am talking about estimating electrical power requirements from sensitivity and SPL drop with distance…so perhaps you have misread me?It seems you have misread my post - I was addressing electrical power, not acoustical power.
But yes, I do not consider the specs on the driver as given by the manufacturer enough for any theoretical calculations. And also miss another important aspect - no data at all about the RT60 of Ron's room.
I am talking about estimating electrical power requirements from sensitivity and SPL drop with distance…so perhaps you have misread me?
I’ve this as well people complained there slowThat is if you trust the power meters presenting anything but bombast display.
Nelson Pass says he has a real power meter that measures all parameters, including current draw, not just voltage needle swings.
He said that when he has played (albeit mid\low 90's efficiency) speakers very loud for listeners, he would ask them how much power they were hearing. He said they would guess incorrectly on the high power side and would be surprised when his own real power meter showed things seldom exceeded the first watt.
Which maybe why his own creative enterprise was named First Watt.
Thank you for the suggestion, but I am not going to go there. I do wish the built-in system had a crossover frequency adjustment control.Ron
I also recommend you to try active bi amping on your speaker bypassing internal crossover.
It wil give more headroom with transparent soundstage.
Hi / good morning Ron,
Do you have any ”first” impressions of your new Brinkmann / Phantom Elite / turntable system?
How does the new turntable sound like? Ofcourse I know it is not broken in yet, but anyway… first impressions is always a hint of what’s comming.
/ Jk
You are wisely addressing efficiency, but manufacturers and reviews quote the sensitivity and all calculations are usually wrongly based on the sensitivity, assuming 8 ohm loads.
Anyway we do not have real reliable measured data on Ron speakers, just speculation.Considering 3 db doubles the power any estimate can be highly misleading, particularly with tube amplifiers.
And I was commenting that without real complete data (electrical and acoustical) all this talk is very misleading. Also since Ron is not going to measure it your estimations are just speculation.