J.R. wants me to put four foot square absorption panels on the front sidewalls by the ceiling. I will do this.
the first step is the big one.
a leap of faith.
J.R. wants me to put four foot square absorption panels on the front sidewalls by the ceiling. I will do this.
the best possible bass reproduction is 'sneaky' bass. where it's apparently not there until.........it is.Whats interesting about Marty is his subs really seem to do nothing. Same with my friend Bob. They are crossed low and appear to emit 0 sound. Yet the bass in both rooms has 0 boom or unnatural hang.
Have exactly the same effect here. My subtowers extend only to 42hz, and is put on very very gentle amplitude. Makes all the difference in the world - so to speak.the best possible bass reproduction is 'sneaky' bass. where it's apparently not there until.........it is.
but the funny part is how much better your highs and mids are with sneaky bass. when i turn off my bass towers i lose a bit of magic in the other octaves as well. my bass towers only extend 'up' to 45hz. yet overtones from the bass effect optimizations of all frequencies.
...may I offer a process that I find a bit easier and I think just as precise. Since I almost never have a helper, I am always figuring out ways to work solo.You sit in a listening position and hold the string to the tip of your nose.
Making things precise is a good start but making it sound right sometimes means not so precise in physical measurements...may I offer a process that I find a bit easier and I think just as precise. Since I almost never have a helper, I am always figuring out ways to work solo.
I place an extended tape measure, piece of wood or foam-core...anything that extends up from your chair to about the height of your head/ears.
Then I use a laser measure against the speaker, shooting to the object I have placed in the chair. I match up the measurements from each speaker to the chair, nudging either speaker as needed.
By locating the laser at the tweeter level, to the side if room allows, you can also confirm the height/location for your ears. I sometimes use foam-core so I can mark off midpoint, ear height, etc. on a grid.
If using a grid, or a midpoint line, you can also use this method to figure the speaker angles (distance to midline).
The above has worked well for me. I have used grids on the floor, protractors, and fashioned various over-engineered sighting devices on the speaker, but simple wins the day for me.
Well
I MUST say - This is almost looking better then before the bass tower swap. Just by the look - I’d say it looks more complete!
Thank you. Almost is no cigar. I think it looks weird to have the woofer towers inside of the panels.I MUST say - This is almost looking better then before the bass tower swap. Just by the look - I’d say it looks more complete!
What kind of platter mat do you intend to use, Ron ?
Ohh I wouldn’t know… but then glass it is! I guess that’s fine.I don't need no stink'in platter mat!
Why would I need a platter mat? The Balance has, I think, a glass top layer.
Nooo - really Ron.?? In my opinion it looks great.. I truly mean that?! I think you just have to take it in for some days and decide if the sound is that much better. If it is, the new swapped bass tower placement maybe is easier to accept then..?!Thank you. Almost is no cigar. I think it looks weird to have the woofer towers inside of the panels.
when i see some ceiling treatment then i will know you are serious.
there is an acoustical devil on one shoulder, and an aesthetic angel on the other. Tinka lurking somewhere around.