Do we have measurements that confirm it? We are not talking about general insulation, but its use in volumes that will work as bass traps or resonators. I remember that in his book F. Toole points that there is an optimum density for these acoustic purposes.
Ron's Speaker, Turntable, Power and Room Treatment Upgrades
- Thread starter Ron Resnick
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Do we have measurements that confirm it? We are not talking about general insulation, but its use in volumes that will work as bass traps or resonators. I remember that in his book F. Toole points that there is an optimum density for these acoustic purposes.
Yes, it has awesome, very even, coefficients. It's the stuff you can buy at Home Depot. It's sold as a sound reducing insulation, but with good R value. Out of all the materials listed it scored extremely well and cost little. The R value is 13/19R.
Measurements, press ctrl+f and type in "Bonded Logic". It is sold as UltraTouch name, which is exactly what Home Depot carries.
And "We are not talking about general insulation" no ****.
I don't think drywall is ideal because it has a less even FR than wood. The insulation is to stop sound from coming or going, it isn't much for tuning, the top material and diffusers/absorbers are for that. (My ideal is safety glass, but the price is too restrictive for a whole room, well, for mortals anyways)
Measurements, press ctrl+f and type in "Bonded Logic". It is sold as UltraTouch name, which is exactly what Home Depot carries.
And "We are not talking about general insulation" no ****.
I don't think drywall is ideal because it has a less even FR than wood. The insulation is to stop sound from coming or going, it isn't much for tuning, the top material and diffusers/absorbers are for that. (My ideal is safety glass, but the price is too restrictive for a whole room, well, for mortals anyways)
Hi Ron
No comment on the diffusor front wall?
I thought you have been to Henks place to witness what this diffusor front wall can do.
I heard his Grands with AND without the diffusors and for me it sounded much better with them.
No comment on the diffusor front wall?
I thought you have been to Henks place to witness what this diffusor front wall can do.
I heard his Grands with AND without the diffusors and for me it sounded much better with them.
I went to visit Henk to hear his Grands. We did not focus on or discuss any diffusor wall at all.
When Henk's diffusor was removed what was on, or what what the material or structure of, the front wall?
When Henk's diffusor was removed what was on, or what what the material or structure of, the front wall?
current plan (November 11, 2017, 1:35 am):
1) wood framing (opposite cinder block)
Thinset and screw .42" Hardibacker to wood studs (may need .25" Hardibacker layer also to match 5/8" drywall + Green Glue + 5/8" drywall on cinder block)
Green Glue and screw drywall to Hardibacker
2) cinder block (opposite wood framing)
best adhesive to glue 5/8" drywall to cinder block
Green Glue 5/8" drywall to first layer of 5/8" drywall
3) front wall
Fir out entire wall to match as closely as possible left side sticking out 4"
Apply waterproof membrane to concrete under wood firring to avoid moisture on wood firring (use metal firring)?
4) ceiling
one layer 5/8" drywall
5) all cavities (wood framing and ceiling and firred out wall) blue jeans insulation
1) wood framing (opposite cinder block)
Thinset and screw .42" Hardibacker to wood studs (may need .25" Hardibacker layer also to match 5/8" drywall + Green Glue + 5/8" drywall on cinder block)
Green Glue and screw drywall to Hardibacker
2) cinder block (opposite wood framing)
best adhesive to glue 5/8" drywall to cinder block
Green Glue 5/8" drywall to first layer of 5/8" drywall
3) front wall
Fir out entire wall to match as closely as possible left side sticking out 4"
Apply waterproof membrane to concrete under wood firring to avoid moisture on wood firring (use metal firring)?
4) ceiling
one layer 5/8" drywall
5) all cavities (wood framing and ceiling and firred out wall) blue jeans insulation
I just remembered that with the Gryphon Pendragon system both the bass tower electronics and the external amplifiers which drive the ribbon panels receive a full-range signal. So the amplifiers I select to drive the ribbon panels will be amplifying a full-range signal, not just an already high-passed (> 200 Hz) signal.
So that means to me that SET is OUT!
So that means to me that SET is OUT!
I just remembered that with the Gryphon Pendragon system both the bass tower electronics and the external amplifiers which drive the ribbon panels receive a full-range signal. So the amplifiers I select to drive the ribbon panels will be amplifying a full-range signal, not just an already high-passed (> 200 Hz) signal.
So that means to me that SET is OUT!
So that means to me that SET is OUT!
Hahahah Mike! I don't blame you one bit!
sorry, I deleted my dig (but not quite quick enough). i'm a (slow) whimp.
Why are they out? The SE amplifiers distort in the low bass because the increase in flux due to bass energy in the low frequencies saturates the core, as long as there is no load in the bass there should be no problem.
Isn't there "load in the bass" because the amplifier is amplifying a full-range signal -- even if
that energy is turning to heat in the high-pass cross-over?
that energy is turning to heat in the high-pass cross-over?
I think no, usually in these cases the impedance in the bass is typically around several tens of ohms - unless Rasmussen uses it to heat the crossover!
IMHO you should ask him for the details concerning impedance versus frequency .
Jim White says you are correct about this. Even if the amplifier is receiving a full-range signal, the high-pass cross-over to the ribbon panel playing mostly above 200 Hz results in little to no low frequency load on the amplifier.
Yup. You got lots of fun options. But an impedance chart would be useful for the ribbon towers.
Amplifier Update:
The amplifiers under consideration are:
Jadis JA200 Mk. II (Class A, KT-150, 200w push-pull)
Zesto Audio Eros 300 (Class A, KT-88, 150w push-pull)
BAT Rex II (6C33C, 160w)
Mastersound PF100 (Class A, 845, 117w parallel SET)
The amplifiers under consideration are:
Jadis JA200 Mk. II (Class A, KT-150, 200w push-pull)
Zesto Audio Eros 300 (Class A, KT-88, 150w push-pull)
BAT Rex II (6C33C, 160w)
Mastersound PF100 (Class A, 845, 117w parallel SET)
Amplifier Update:
The amplifiers under consideration are:
Jadis JA200 Mk. II (Class A, KT-150, 200w push-pull)
Zesto Audio Eros 300 (Class A, KT-88, 150w push-pull)
BAT Rex II (6C33C, 160w probably push-pull)
Mastersound PF100 (Class A, 845, 117w parallel SET)
VAC 450iq
Wavac HE-833 Mk. II
I now anticipate selling the VTL MB-750s.
The amplifiers under consideration are:
Jadis JA200 Mk. II (Class A, KT-150, 200w push-pull)
Zesto Audio Eros 300 (Class A, KT-88, 150w push-pull)
BAT Rex II (6C33C, 160w probably push-pull)
Mastersound PF100 (Class A, 845, 117w parallel SET)
VAC 450iq
Wavac HE-833 Mk. II
I now anticipate selling the VTL MB-750s.
http://www.highendaudio.nl/en/apparatuur/wavac-sh-833/
What about this one Ron ? A big chop from sticker price
What about this one Ron ? A big chop from sticker price
While my original choice remains, the Mastersound PF100 certainly have an appeal.
You can't go wrong the the VAC 450iq, but it's not super exciting (might still be best choice). Another reason to get a wavebourne and then have a shootout between say VAC and Mastersound.
I didn't really find a ton of information on most of those choices, well I was surprised I didn't find more, I should say. The Eros 300 clearly has some engineer types behind it, offering obvious things like an XLR ground lift and such. I guess I'm just curious where some of the innovation is at - I feel like the Pendragons are a bit higher up on the chain in that regard.
You can't go wrong the the VAC 450iq, but it's not super exciting (might still be best choice). Another reason to get a wavebourne and then have a shootout between say VAC and Mastersound.
I didn't really find a ton of information on most of those choices, well I was surprised I didn't find more, I should say. The Eros 300 clearly has some engineer types behind it, offering obvious things like an XLR ground lift and such. I guess I'm just curious where some of the innovation is at - I feel like the Pendragons are a bit higher up on the chain in that regard.
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