The Upgrade Company

That's an absolutely fair request, and listening material should be chosen which best highlights the perceived differences.

This test is going to be blind and properly level-matched, yes?

Hi Ken,

I may suggest that if possible we do both a sighted as well as a blind test (we can see if there is much difference in the results in this case by both tests); and hopefully there will be some sort of a tool or method to level match the units as closely as possible.

Rich
 
Hi Jeff,

Even if the switch were used, the listeners should be allowed to become acclimated to the sound of both units for some time so that they felt that they could recognize differences and to then run the tests switching from one unit to the other.

Rich
Sure, that makes sense. Listen, focus on something and then switch and focus immediately on the same thing in the other unit under test. Switch back and forth until each of us are satisfied with that particular aspect, and then do it all over again focusing on something else. Without discussion, of course.

Jeff
 
What is your definition of "properly?"

Jeff, it's not my definition, but a generally accepted one: by measuring voltage at the speaker terminals for a 1kHz tone, minimum, and multiple frequencies if you wish to ensure that the FR response for each UUT is the same. I suspect the latter is best since Dave's mods may do nothing more than alter FR response from flat in some euphonic manner.

/Ken

Edited to add: See this thread, esp. Arny's posts nos 36 and 41.
 
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I've got $20 that says that no one can tell the difference between Friar Tuck's blue goop/tin foil/RF beaded modded unit and the stock unit. And I mean there will be no unanimous consensus.
 
Thanks for the links. What would be done if the levels matched at 1k and not at some of the other frequencies looked at?

I don't think there's anything you can do except level match @ 1kHz and proceed. If the differences are large enough, they may well be audible in an A/B comparison. We can only speculate about why they're different, but the mod would be the obvious suspect.
 
I've got $20 that says that no one can tell the difference between Friar Tuck's blue goop/tin foil/RF beaded modded unit and the stock unit. And I mean there will be no unanimous consensus.
Assuming blind, level-matched and no FR changes, I'd make the same bet.
 
Mark and Ken,

Interesting you should suggest that. Basically what Roger DiVito and I have been doing in our Ampex 440C/B hybrid tape decks is for the most part is to change out resistors and caps for the reproduce cards as well as a transformer. Roger has found a dramatic change in the sound of his R2R tape machine with the changes made. My reproduce cards are still burning in and we are awaiting for the upgraded record cards (again with changes in caps and resistors to arrive). My 4 cards will be sent on to Wayne in Palm Springs for the completion of the machine.

By the way, Roger had previously also replaced resistors and caps in his Accuphase P300 power amps as well as his Accuphase C200 preamp with much the same results as he is experiencing with the Ampex R2R tape deck.

Rich
 
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I don’t see the comparison between the two Rich. Tuck isn’t changing out any components in his *mods,* he is just slapping on the blue goo, ferrite beads, and tin foil.
 
I don’t see the comparison between the two Rich. Tuck isn’t changing out any components in his *mods,* he is just slapping on the blue goo, ferrite beads, and tin foil.

Mark,

David is changing as many as over 200 parts in his upgrades which includes a fair number of replaced resistors, caps, IEC inlets, RCA outputs, internal wiring, damping material, plus the ferrite filters, shielding materials including the shielded foil, and in some instances the AVR fluid.

Rich
 
Oh. I stand corrected. I thought he never tells people exactly what he does change out and it's sort of like being a Catholic, you have to have faith.
 
What is "AVR fluid"?

Hi Don,

Unless I may have made a mistake in the name, but this is the fluid that has been applied to some of the component circuitry by David, and other people that is being referred to as the Blue goo. It is a very expensive material that is applied in a liquid form that hardens and is supposed to lessen vibration and I believe to act as a dampening material.

Rich
 
41 pages? Really? Has anyone molded the aluminum foil into a cap yet?

Tim
 
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Hi Rich
You certainly are a dedicated man.You are like Daves English Bull Terrier(LOL).I would be curious on your age and hearing actually?
But lets face facts

GOOD
-TUC will upgrade your product for at least $1000USD!

BAD
-no idea what is done(but has beed confirmed at $150-$200 parts & labour)
-no digital improvements(confirmed)
-takes AT LEAST 800hrs breakin time(over a month of constant transport wear)
-you and your family will be threatened if you make Dave mad(very professional)

good enough for me(AW yes,been there/done that)

I say: enjoy and be carefull

Please feel free to add to the list
 
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