What do measurements say about SET’s

Takes me back to the seventies when I completely covered the backside of my Klipsch LaScalas with Plasticine modeling clay. Really smoothed a peaky hardness right out of them. There were additional smaller gains to be had covering the driver itself YMMV.
You can do more, but it's only for crazy people like me:D. You open the back chamber of the driver. This prevents resonance peaks that occur in the chamber. Not recommended for expensive, rare drivers. Sometimes it's enough to glue a thin piece of foam to the cover of the driver from the inside.flater frequency responce and i use it as dipole in my openbaffle.20231123_222301.jpg
 
Most high frequency compression drivers have an excess of energy in the 1kHz region, even modern ones. Can you post a link to a raw frequency response of a driver you consider 'well behaved'? The Altecs are really no better or worse than anything else out there in this respect.
Beyma CP-755Ti, CP-350Ti, Supravox 215-2000(although it has a bit of a rise, off-axis it’s not bad), Fostex FT96H.
 
Most high frequency compression drivers have an excess of energy in the 1kHz region, even modern ones. Can you post a link to a raw frequency response of a driver you consider 'well behaved'? The Altecs are really no better or worse than anything else out there in this respect.




Interestingly, when crossed at 1khz to the CP-755Ti, it get +- 2dB from 100hz to 12khz, there is some room stuff below 100 and there is a roll off above 12 but quite linear, no eq needed.
 
Depending on your tolerance for flatness or lack thereof, the still require some degree of voicing.
 
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Depending on your tolerance for flatness or lack thereof, the still require some degree of voicing.
As I said, the Supravox + Beyma 755 measures quite flat in room through the crucial range and has a gentle roll off at the top. When I used a digital crossover, the only thing I did was shape bass a bit, but an amp change resulted in that being unnecessary as well.
 
My amp(s) have volume controls and are used sans preamps.

What I am looking for is a small passive device that I can place between the phono stage and two amplifiers. The device will necessarily split the phono stage output to two pathways, one pair having passive high pass (@ 500 Hz and above) filters to left and right output jacks to feed the 300B SET stereo amp (with volume pots), the other pair through low pass filters (500Hz and below) to feed the 211 SET stereo amp (with volume pots). Balancing will be done with the volume pots on the amplifiers. I assume small value parts placed there will do the trick without reducing the signal too much but don’t know that.

It has been suggested that because the compression drivers in my Altec A7’s are not flat they will need varable resistors to “voice” the treble.
You can use a passive preamp or with tube buffer/ gain stage from hattor audio, superb khozmo parts e.g volume control my tip

 
As I said, the Supravox + Beyma 755 measures quite flat in room through the crucial range and has a gentle roll off at the top. When I used a digital crossover, the only thing I did was shape bass a bit, but an amp change resulted in that being unnecessary as well.
For reference, below is the listening position response of an Altec 802D / 511 horn I took just minutes ago (the major vertical divisions are 5dB) - done properly, these vintage drivers leave nothing to be desired compared to more modern ones.

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You can do more, but it's only for crazy people like me:D. You open the back chamber of the driver. This prevents resonance peaks that occur in the chamber. Not recommended for expensive, rare drivers. Sometimes it's enough to glue a thin piece of foam to the cover of the driver from the inside.flater frequency responce and i use it as dipole in my openbaffle.View attachment 139837
Thank you. I ran upstairs to check out the dipole woofers on my last main speakers of 34 years. Apparently Mark Gilmore did that correctly when he designed them. Appreciate the share:pIMG_1100.jpgIMG_1102.jpgIMG_1103.jpg
 
As I said, the Supravox + Beyma 755 measures quite flat in room through the crucial range and has a gentle roll off at the top. When I used a digital crossover, the only thing I did was shape bass a bit, but an amp change resulted in that being unnecessary as well.

How are you measuring this ..?
 
Clarysis has done a great job on build quality and looks while retaining the obvious ..

Love how you offset the amplifier to fool standing waves in the room :)
 
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How much smoothing ..?
The usual 1/6 octave in REW. The slight shelf below 1 Khz fills in to be flat when the woofer horn is active. This was taken from the listening position.
 
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Clarysis has done a great job on build quality and looks while retaining the obvious ..

Love how you offset the amplifier to fool standing waves in the room :)
Agreed

I wish I could claim to be that insightful. My interconnects are a bit short:D

Last post as I'm off topic in thread
 
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Not sure, figured that if in front of the amp values would be small and make little difference to power of amplifier. I figure cut off at 500 Hz, 12dB? I really don’t know enough about this so was hoping to find someone else familiar with bi-amping Altec A7’s to help. Need some way to dial in voicing on top too.
All the schematics I've seen have 12dB slopes or more.
What I am looking for is a small passive device that I can place between the phono stage and two amplifiers. The device will necessarily split the phono stage output to two pathways, one pair having passive high pass (@ 500 Hz and above) filters to left and right output jacks to feed the 300B SET stereo amp (with volume pots), the other pair through low pass filters (500Hz and below) to feed the 211 SET stereo amp (with volume pots).
Since it needs to be 12dB, there will be also a 12dB insertion loss. You'll need some kind of gain I suspect.
I think it's more the horn, here is a tad 2001 in that horn it makes a peak too 1- 2khz. tad is smooth flat in other horns. I would damp the horn with greytak outside before i start with other things.
FWIW Dept,: the TAD maple 500Hz horn has something going on with the throat that causes a bit of an artifact. John Wolff of Classic Audio Loudspeakers has this corrected with the result being smoother and easier to listen to.
No question the HF horns need to be well damped - in my case (picture below) I cover the entire surface with a thick application of Aquaplas which makes them completely inert. Bondo automotive putty also works well.

Running these Altec horns without adequate damping is a fool's errand. ;)
I used to use Altecs with the 800Hz horn back in the 70s and 80s. We used roofing cement to damp them. It really helped them out! These days I'd be temped to use 3M's DP105 damping epoxy.
 
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For reference, below is the listening position response of an Altec 802D / 511 horn I took just minutes ago (the major vertical divisions are 5dB) - done properly, these vintage drivers leave nothing to be desired compared to more modern ones.

View attachment 139849
Why don't you show us what the off-axis responses look like? One of the longstanding challenges with most moving coil dynamic box speakers is that their off axis response can go to pieces rather quickly, a challenge elegantly addressed by Peter Walker in the Quad ESL-63. You can get this to work right, and some designers go to great lengths to do so. But not all. What you hear is a function of the speaker's dispersion pattern across the entire space (direct + room reflections), which in a small room is usually almost instantaneous (unlike a big concert hall where reflected sound can come much later). In short, you are hearing the room as much or more so than your speaker.
 
Why don't you show us what the off-axis responses look like? One of the longstanding challenges with most moving coil dynamic box speakers is that their off axis response can go to pieces rather quickly, a challenge elegantly addressed by Peter Walker in the Quad ESL-63. You can get this to work right, and some designers go to great lengths to do so. But not all. What you hear is a function of the speaker's dispersion pattern across the entire space (direct + room reflections), which in a small room is usually almost instantaneous (unlike a big concert hall where reflected sound can come much later). In short, you are hearing the room as much or more so than your speaker.
These speakers are highly directional full-range horns, and are much less dependent on the room than a traditional box speaker. That is why I don't show the off-axis measurements - because they are largely irrelevant since there isn't as much projection off-axis. Beyond that, the room is very large with excellent acoustics (picture in my profile) and what first reflections there are will be of less influence. Since these horns project direct sound much farther than a box speaker, the listening position is effectively in the near field, even though the listening position is 12' away. The posted response takes into account the total radiation at the listening position.
 
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Hmm... I hate to belabor this point, but you *are* hearing off-axis responses even if you sit at the exact center. It's the laws of physics at work. What you hear is the speaker and the room. You cannot eliminate the room, unless the speaker is designed to do so (e.g., an electrostatic does not radiate in the perpendicular to the main axis, and hence greatly reduces off-axis sounds, but moving coil speakers do not). I agree horns are less susceptible: I do have Kipsch La Scala, which are full range horns, and I see their off-axis response is better behaved. But it's there....and without seeing that, you can't know what's happening.

If you want to do a better measurement, try to create a room-averaged response along the lines of what John Aktinson of Stereophile has done for several decades with tens of thousands of loudspeakers reviewed in that magazine.


Quad ESL-63, spatially averaged, 1/3-octave, in-room response in Larry Archibald listening room.

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