Suggestions for new house dedicated power set-up

I just finished connecting my main box to a new sub panel with 2/0 gauge. Using 8 gauge up from sub to main room. Synergistic research purple outlets.

The result is crazy. It is Iike a new system. 2-3x the enjoyment. Everything is sophisticated, clean, clear, more soulful, detailed, black and just really special.

To not do this is crazy - single best cost / reward effort you can make.

Cannot recommend more highly.
 
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I am convinced! Just need to find out what the code here allows for. WOW…2/0 gauge ! Is there a big potential difference between that and 2 AWG? Also is 2.0 hard to run…it is so thick!
 
mauidj said:
I am convinced! Just need to find out what the code here allows for. WOW…2/0 gauge ! Is there a big potential difference between that and 2 AWG? Also is 2.0 hard to run…it is so thick!
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No - I had 150 feet. I had no choice - Vince Galbo strongly recommends 2 gauge. It’s a really crazy impact
 
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Sorry to repeat myself….so 2.0 makes a difference over 2AWG? And did it require specific panels to accept that thickness?
 
Do you use three separate wires or a two conductor plus ground Romex style ? If so…is the ground the same gauge and do you twist them?
 
Wow! 150' 2awg! That had to be a mother! Just yesterday I ran a dedicated10awg circuit solely for my network, (crawl space) approx. 40' into a very full 200 amp panel. So tight! It took a little while to get the ground into the bus bar. Lots of manipulation. And sweat!!

I used a the phase opposite the Torus Isolation Transformer. I really like the network on its own circuit...
 
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mauidj said:
I am convinced! Just need to find out what the code here allows for. WOW…2/0 gauge ! Is there a big potential difference between that and 2 AWG? Also is 2.0 hard to run…it is so thick!
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Sorry - I actually ran 2/3. If I ran 2/0 I would need separate service and meter from electric company and a panel with 35 empty slots as my sub panel wouldn’t accommodate that wire. Cant tell the difference as I never tried 2/0 but the 2/3 gauge was a monster to pull thru the ceiling. If you private message me I will send you a pic of the wire - I had to make a choice use 2/3 or have the electrician quit on me!! I had to open the ceiling twice to pull it thru.
 
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...2/0 is a big pull. I haven't done it for a million years. And that time involved a "pony motor" and a thick rope for a "fish" and a lot of Ideal yellow soap! Sorry you had to open the ceiling. That sucks, but sometimes...
 
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MarkusBarkus said:
...2/0 is a big pull. I haven't done it for a million years. And that time involved a "pony motor" and a thick rope for a "fish" and a lot of Ideal yellow soap! Sorry you had to open the ceiling. That sucks, but sometimes...
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That's like pulling a well pump out by hand! Actually the well pump is probably easier. Yeah yellow soap and a 5 gallon bucket of vaseline!
 
I can’t imagine 2/0 is a 20% improvement to 2/3 but never know. Also I understand that the wall outlets need to break in so that should interesting. I have a power conditioner coming and I hope that will further advance the cause. One can see how chasing equipment before the room and power is right can be quite expensive
 
Full House!!
 

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Danielaruso said:
I can’t imagine 2/0 is a 20% improvement to 2/3 but never know. Also I understand that the wall outlets need to break in so that should interesting. I have a power conditioner coming and I hope that will further advance the cause. One can see how chasing equipment before the room and power is right can be quite expensive
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You are correct. Try to ensure your AC, cabling, receptacles, everything affiliated with your power is as good as you can make it. Like starting with a blank canvas...
 
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Danielaruso said:
Sorry - I actually ran 2/3. If I ran 2/0 I would need separate service and meter from electric company and a panel with 35 empty slots as my sub panel wouldn’t accommodate that wire. Cant tell the difference as I never tried 2/0 but the 2/3 gauge was a monster to pull thru the ceiling. If you private message me I will send you a pic of the wire - I had to make a choice use 2/3 or have the electrician quit on me!! I had to open the ceiling twice to pull it thru.
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PM sent….many thanks!
 
mxk116 said:
SE2. I’ve tried the Shunyata cable cradle but it really doesn’t compare. It’s a fixed cradle while the C-Lock screws tight onto the cable plug.
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Does the C lock plate change/improve the sound?

I have a Furutech carbon fiber outlet cover (non NCF) and it reduces smearing.
 
vert said:
Does the C lock plate change/improve the sound?

I have a Furutech carbon fiber outlet cover (non NCF) and it reduces smearing.
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I don't know if the sound is impacted by the C-Lock plate. I use the C-Lock solely for its ability to prevent bulky power cables sagging at the receptacle, providing a stable connection to the power source. For me, a sagging power cord (partially inserted in the wall outlet, with the potential to disconnect from the wall outlet if disturbed inadvertently) is a greater threat to sound and performance of system.
 
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mxk116 said:
I don't know if the sound is impacted by the C-Lock plate. I use the C-Lock solely for its ability to prevent bulky power cables sagging at the receptacle, providing a stable connection to the power source. For me, a sagging power cord (partially inserted in the wall outlet, with the potential to disconnect from the wall outlet if disturbed inadvertently) is a greater threat to sound and performance of system.
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Agreed! I use all Furutech NCF and got so fed up with sagging that I built an outlet box with all Furutech receptacles. The Box is mounted to the floor (5 receptacles) so all my AC connections are vertical. No more sagging!
 
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#2 wire is a lot of wire. No stereo needs more. I like #4/3 as the ground inside is a solid #8. #2/3 will have a stranded #6 or stranded #4 depending on if its SER or NM-B.

I have run #4/3 with a solid #8 ground, then zip tied a stranded #6 to the cable to compare the grounds. The #6 ground was bass heavy and the owner told me to change it back to the solid #8.

I find #8 to a duplex to be very fast. I find #10 solid to have more weight. I would put #8 to subs all day for speed. I would put #10 to everything else.
 
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mauidj said:
So you use single core cable...Ok now I understand. Thought you were using multi core Romex. Many thanks.
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Mauidj: all of the heavy gauge in-wall power cables I'll be using will be MULTI-stranded, not single-core.
 
OK......so I think I have a plan.

Going from the main panel (Eaton CH) to the Eaton CH sub panel using 2.0 wire. The sub is just 4 feet away.
4 separate 20A breakers then 8 gauge to the 4 wall receptacles.
As I'm using 8 gauge I will spring for the Furutech GTX-D NCF receptacles which take that heavy wire.
I am undecided between the Gold and Rhodium right now. I read how they are quite different sounding.
Damn they are not cheap!
Then I need to decide if I'm going to spring for the Furutech GTX wall frames and NCF outlet covers.
I have read so many differing opinions of these. Most very good, but some say they affect the sound in a negative way.
Might just use the receptacles for a while then try one or two of the other items.
Any thoughts would be most appreciated.
 
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