Suggestions for new house dedicated power set-up

Never use silver paste. Only use Caig Deoxit D100 to clean and G100 for final finish. Use the DN5S-2N to spray down parts in a existing panel, duplex etc.

Not NEC means its not to code and wont pass inspection. And if there were a fire, an insurance company could say it was parts used in a way not intended to be used.

I am noting how I modified the part, so that one no no. Then I am using it in a place not intended. Another no no. I have done it at my home as I am using a part that is designed to hold 2 x#10 wires. And it clamps very secure and solid. The issue is its made to hold those 2 x #10 wire when screwed to the can of a metal splice box. Not in free air with tape around it. And you sawed the end off.

Oddly it wraps extremely well in the box. What I mean is, a through splice that runs in one direction, tucks back into the box well and allows wire packing that is clean wirh no kinks. Don't ever kink your wire. Your destroying the internal structure of the wire. When you kink a wire, you significantly reduce its current carying capacity. All box fill should look like this.
 

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Thanks Rex. I didn't know kinking wire is bad...good to learn.

"The issue is its made to hold those 2 x #10 wire when screwed to the can of a metal splice box. Not in free air with tape around it. And you sawed the end off."

So are you saying you attached the copper bar to metal boxes for the 10g wire?
 
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Really great info...many thanks.

Does anyone know if the Shunyata Z1 outlets are just rebranded Hubbells?
 
@Kingrex ...what is more important. Solid over stranded or twisting the wires? My electrician is concerned about feeding twisted solid through the conduits and breaking or kinking the wire..
 
Use solid. Don't pull it loose. That is incorrect. At a minimum twist it 1 twist every 6 inches. You want the geometry to remain consistent. As in the space between the neutral, ground and hot. You don't have to twist it every 2 inches as I do. That is much harder to do. But I have never had an issue with kinking when pulling in ENT raceway. Dont use metal raceway.
 
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Use solid. Don't pull it loose. That is incorrect. At a minimum twist it 1 twist every 6 inches. You want the geometry to remain consistent. As in the space between the neutral, ground and hot. You don't have to twist it every 2 inches as I do. That is much harder to do. But I have never had an issue with kinking when pulling in ENT raceway. Dont use metal raceway.
Note that the two popular cable brands/models sold specifically for in-wall wiring of dedicated lines (Audience Hidden Treasure and JPS Labs In-Wall Wiring) use stranded wire.

Description of Hidden Treasure - FYI:

"......The cable construction consists of three 10 AWG stranded copper wires shielded with XLPE cross-linked polyethylene insulation. Black for "live"(or "hot"), white for neutral, and red for ground. (Many duplex outlets will be coded with green on the connection for ground.) In addition, there are three synthetic strands that act as spacers to improve the resistance to vibration and crushability of the cable. A single strand of bare copper wire runs through it to ground the aluminum foil shield if you really want to be obsessive. All these are covered with thick PVC that is flame-retardant, moisture- and sunlight-resistant to give it durability. And finally, the labeling on the cable reads in the direction the cable should be installed going from the breaker box to the duplex outlet...The cable is also treated by our proprietary EHVP, which applies extreme high voltages at specific pulse modulations, frequencies,and amplitudes in differing ratios. This very special process creates predictable paths through the crystalline grain structure providing continuity and integrity to the AC signal....".
 
Pull both and listen. Hear for yourself how they differ.
 
FWIW Hidden Treasure is a high quality commercial MC cable. I can buy it for about $1.20 a foot. Maybe they cryo or burn it in. I can cryo a role for about $300. Another $1.20 or so a foot.
All that talk is posted in the UL cutsheet. Without the flowery Audiophile speak.

Be aware, without an isolated ground the shield and ground wire are now both current carrying conductors. Parallel ground conductors that have different impedance and conductance characteristics. Maybe you won't hear it or have issues if you wire it right.
Ite also tough pitch copper like all other copper in any Ul copper for in wall use.
 
PM sent….many thanks!
Hi Maudj,

had posted some questions regarding your project to inform a similar project I have underway next week but see that you answered them later in the text chain. I have 25-30’ runs from my to be implemented sub panel and am teetering between 8 and 10 AWG wire between it and my duplexes. Sounds like you went with 10 AWG.

Thanks
 
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Hi Blake.

So I am still in the planning stage. The conduits and panels are in place but wire will not be run for a couple more months.

The 2 gauge is separate wires inside a pic conduit.

120v to the sub panel

I will twist all conductors as per @Kingrex advice. One twist every 6 inches.

PVC conduit everywhere.

All panels are Eaton CH Loadcenters ... I will get the model numbers for you.

The 10 (not 8) gauge run from Sub panel to outlets is about 35ft

So far no additional grounds but that has yet to be decided.

In addition I have decided to use the 2 Shunyata outlets for my two "accessory" lines and 2 Furutech GTX-D NCF for the power amp and source components.

Hope this helps.

All the best
Ray
 
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Thanks Ray.

I am undertaking a very similar project to yours next week. Differences being:

- from my 600A service entry I am running a 125A 120v 1/0-1/0-1/0 + 8 AWG Grnd circuit (all conductors will be individual wires) to a sub panel (running the extra hot, will allow me to add a 240v isolation transformer in the future) in PVC conduit; may run an isolated ground too though most of the whitepapers I've read do not say this helps sonics

- Was hoping to source a bolt-in sub panel that could be recessed in a 16 inch stud bay; however, the only one I'm familiar with that exists is manufactured by Benjamin Electric. However, it's a $7K investment and have heard that the cost doesn't warrant the "improvement". Given this, have consulted a couple consultants who recommend SQ D's QO panel. They seem to prefer this line over Eaton's CH line. Unclear why.

- lastly, I did see Shunyata's white paper that recommends hydraulic electromagnetic breakers, but I don't know whether they are worth the cost or even compatible with the QO or CH sub panels?

- Three 25-30' 120v 20A circuits will run between the sub panel and my listening room GTX-D NCF rhodium duplexes. These will be 8AWG romex runs; however, I understand that others on the forum prefer 10AWG. I could run either and wish I knew which gauge would provide better sound for my components. MSB prefers 8AWG as you know, while Rex recommends 10AWG. Besides Rex, if anyone has tried both gauges and has an opinion, please weigh in!!!! If I do run an isolated ground, it will be 8 gauge to the duplexes. Of course, all wires will be cut to the same length

- MSB likes a little sliver paste while some don't...wish there were consensus

- all circuits will be twisted per MSB's recommendation

- I may add some supplemental ground rods...we will see
 
That sounds great Blake....I hope it "sounds" great too!!!!
Yes every one has a different way of getting there. I am not going to pull my hair out or over extend my wallet over this. Just want to get the basics right. The thought of "listening" to different cables, layouts and outlets does not sit right with me. I don't believe there is only one correct way given all the variables. But I am sure that running separate lines and making sure the basics are right..cable lengths, grounds, twists etc will produce all the improvements I want.
Good luck with your project mate!
 
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@Kingrex
Should I run more than one ground to earth from my main panel?
If so...what should the layout be.
Also do you twist all 3 wires going to the outlets or just the live and neutral?
 

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