Gryphon PowerZone 3

Everything is in context and no one should be calling out people who have a different opinion.
You just called me out for having a different opinion.
 
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I’m sorry I didn’t mean to do that.I was referring to implications in the thread that there must be something fishy if a dealer didn’t recommend the PZ3 over other options they sell. It’s absolutely ok to prefer it IMHO. I’m a Gryphon guy and have considered it myself. I was actually able to compare in a 2.1 million dollar system.
 
Hi all, I read this thread and I know my question might be redundant but does anyone here know if the powerzone 3.20 is split in two as far as draw allowance? And how strict is it .
I want to get two pZ 3.20 for each side of my room; I have block audio mono blocks draw 10amp in class A ; then gryphon trident 2 active speaker for woofer , class an but max draw 16amp! And magico s sub max draw 16amp?! So in eight outlets one one side mono block and the other side speaker and sub , which totals 10a on one side and potentially 32a on other which would exceed 20a , thoughts?
 
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Hi all, I read this thread and I know my question might be redundant but does anyone here know if the powerzone 3.20 is split in two as far as draw allowance? And how strict is it .
I want to get two pZ 3.20 for each side of my room; I have block audio mono blocks draw 10amp in class A ; then gryphon trident 2 active speaker for woofer , class an but max draw 16amp! And magico s sub max draw 16amp?! So in eight outlets one one side mono block and the other side speaker and sub , which totals 10a on one side and potentially 32a on other which would exceed 20a , thoughts?
I own a 3.20. It has two 20 amp inputs, two completely separate circuits. Each has 4 outlets. You might be talking about maximum current draw for your Amp and Sub, but hopefully they don't both get there at the same time. If the only items going into each 3.20 are a 16 amp sub and a 10 amp amplifier you will have no problem with a 3.20. Sub in one circuit, amp in the other. You could probably add a few lower powered devices as well, favoring the 10 amp side. Does this make sense to you?
 
I own a 3.20. It has two 20 amp inputs, two completely separate circuits. Each has 4 outlets. You might be talking about maximum current draw for your Amp and Sub, but hopefully they don't both get there at the same time. If the only items going into each 3.20 are a 16 amp sub and a 10 amp amplifier you will have no problem with a 3.20. Sub in one circuit, amp in the other. You could probably add a few lower powered devices as well, favoring the 10 amp side. Does this make sense to you?
Yes thank you … yes so one situation scenario would be on paper at risk of going over 20amp, I have three things I need to plug in , my 10amp draw mono block, my 16amp active speaker and also my 16amp subwoofer . But you’re right likelifhood at getting peak draw from
Speaker and or sub should be low
 
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It keeps improving week after week. For at least a month. Welcome to the club!!!!
aangen: yes! It does! It’s just short of 2 weeks and I have to leave the PZ’s for a month. I’m working with a stock power cable to the 3.0 and a Cardas Clear Beyond XL to the 2.0. Both will become Vanta when I get back to the system. Vanta in place from the PZ’s to amp and pre amp.
Soundstage is now wider and deeper. Significantly. Air around vocals and instruments? Check. Everyone has mentioned the impact on bass. Let’s just say I’m in no rush to reconnect a pair of Gothams. Bass is sub-like now. Deeper, bigger, clearer. Impactful. There’s no denying the newly present low end energy in my space.
As great as the bass is I’m finding the mids to be natural, open and extended. I can’t overemphasize the word “natural.’ That’s the overarching impact of the PZ’s. Vocalists are in right in the room with me. Same with horns and violins. It’s hard to stop listening.
Highs follow suit. Natural. Organic. No stress. No harshness. No edge. It’s crazy!! There is no listener fatigue. I get amazing detail without the usual downsides.
Naturally these results are mine, on my system, in my space. With that in mind it is at least interesting that those with experience having the PZ in their system are all reporting similar results.
Maybe getting those electrons in order gets our systems in order!
 
Thanks for sharing, and you have 2 weeks ahead to get even further improvements!
 
I was involved in setting up a group buy for 8 people to buy Powerzones. All except one have learned that the better the power cable from the wall to the PZ, the better the PZ performs. Anyone who uses the provided cable is missing out big time. The top favorite power cable is the Stealth Audio 2020. I am using the Gryphon Vantas for my 3.20 and I feel that is a politically correct choice. It would be easy for me to try the Stealth 2020s, but I am sticking with the Vantas.
 
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Luca & aangen: I now have well over month on my PowerZones and can continue to confirm your earlier findings! Awesome product!
The PowerZone touches so many aspects of the sound but in the end, what it does for me, is to allow me to listen to the music, not the system. This is the essence of our hobby and this piece gets me there.
A power conditioner can’t make your system better than it is. What it can do is enable your system to perform closer to or up to its potential. And some would say the sum of the system parts may exceed expectations of combining the parts. In any case, since installing the PZ’s my system has performed on a significantly higher level.
With the amp in 1 PZ and the preamp, DAC and network player in the other PZ, there is no shortage of power. I am not rushing to plug my amp back into the wall.
Replacing the stock power cords with Vanta power cords made a worthwhile improvement. Smoother, less edgy and better resolved. Improved extension and definition at both high and low ends.
The PZ takes some time to settle into a system. There are some ups and downs, but it’s a fun ride.
The PowerZones helped to make digital sources not sound digital, just musical. All these changes add up to make the system such a pleasure to listen to I’m happy to leave warm weather of Fl for the chill of NY…
 
Two PZs? Congrats… I suppose you have amps and sources on different walls of the room.
 
Just saw an YT video from Rune on PZ. He kept emphasizing PZ is not a power conditioner or filter. Very interesting. What are the suggestions of power cord from PZ to wall?
 
I use two Gryphon Vanta cables for mine. All my other cables are Stealth. I would say Stealth 2020 or Cloude Grande CU. But Gryphon Vanta seems most appropriate to me.
 
Just saw an YT video from Rune on PZ. He kept emphasizing PZ is not a power conditioner or filter. Very interesting. What are the suggestions of power cord from PZ to wall?
I agree with Al, I'm using STEALTH Dream 20-20 and don't feel the need to try anything else.
 
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Just saw an YT video from Rune on PZ. He kept emphasizing PZ is not a power conditioner or filter. Very interesting.
Well, he has to say that because it isn't. :) To say so would be false advertising. Based on what they have disclosed about the Hafner technology, it doesn't have any traditional linear filtration characteristic (no L or C, so no cutoff frequency). The term "conditioner" is used very loosely in the industry so not even sure what it means, but most devices claiming to be conditioners are either just glorified surge suppressors, or contain active circuits for power factor correction or noise cancellation. It sounds (both from the description and the effects) that Hafner is more akin to the quantum purifiers from Jack Bybee, or the nano crystal material (NCF) from Furutech, but with significantly deeper effects than the latter. I heard very good thing about the Bybee filters back in the day but never tried them myself. Perhaps if we stuck some in a really nice implementation like the PZ it would sound similarly good!
 
AFAIK, these are the classes of functionality a "power conditioner" can have:
1. Filtration, usually some combination of RLC
2. Galvanic isolation via transformers, which is also a form of filtration (mostly L)
3. Surge suppression, via MOVs or similar devices
4. Over-current protection via a circuit breaker/fuse
5. Power factor correction
6. Active noise cancellation
7. Regeneration (PS Audio PowerPlant)
8. Magical crystal/quantum stuff - NCF, Bybee, Hafner
 

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