Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

I have a metal base Amperex and metal base Mullard. There were the “sought” after GZ34 for a while. I should try it in my Big 7.
 
David, you should try it and form your own opinion. Blue and I experimented with this ages ago in my GG but found it lacking compared to the regular EML5u4g. Others have however felt differently and you might do also.
 
Nervous times on the tube tester.

RD27AS first. What we're looking for is 7ma/V for a new valve.

Sold by cipsnaj eBay rating 995 sales at 100% feedback. He declared these to test at 75%.

What did we get?

5.2 and 5.3 ma/V. Cipsnaj is an excellent seller. As bang on 75% as you could expect and it shows common agreement between testers.

It also shows that the guy who restored this tester knew what he was doing.

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Now here's the PX25 test.

This just freaked me out. The Osram came in with flying colours at 7.2. The Marconi came in at 3.3.

WTF? Only two sections of the filament appeared to be lit. Tapped the valve. A blue spark emitted from the far left hanger. Tapped again. And again. More blue sparks.

Then... hey presto it sprang to life. All four sections lit as you can see. Phew! Close call.

Then perhaps unsurprisingly it measured 6.6 ma/V.

I am pretty happy with that TBH and it is better as a pair than a number of triodes I have bought new. Really.

30 minutes in the tester and it is still fine. Let's hope it stays that way.?

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Yes...he corrected it. I have seen those on Ebay for up to $600each. I still have one. Gave one to Yoda and Al years ago. Dunno if they still have them.

His looks like a black base however. Tubedepot as the black base for $199.
 
His looks like a black base however. Tubedepot as the black base for $199.

If you look closely you can see it is a metal base. Plus, I have a lot of black base GZ34s and none have that short of a base.
 
If you look closely you can see it is a metal base. Plus, I have a lot of black base GZ34s and none have that short of a base.

Is there a major difference in quality sound as there is in price?
 
Is there a major difference in quality sound as there is in price?

That is in the ears of the beholder. If you ask me I don’t think the sound difference justifies the price differences. There are some really good plastic base GZ34s that sound great.
 
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Concerning rectifiers I have been playing with three today for fun: CV717 5R4G NOS Haltron Twin Disc Getter, standard KR rectifier that came with the unit, and Acme 274b, top 10%. And they all sound really good. Very difficult to tell the difference between them. If I had to pick, the NOS Haltron has more visceral impact today. Tomorrow...well...
 
The GZ34 is a metal base Mullard made in Holland, series 2. Of course everyone has an opinion, that's what makes this hobby fun. Tried to describe the sound, only you will know if it suits your system and sound preference. So many factors!

User211 glad you got it working! Looks amazing. By the way if anyone has rectifiers they want to sell PM me. I'm enjoying playing with lots at the moment :) (UK based)
 
Concerning rectifiers I have been playing with three today for fun: CV717 5R4G NOS Haltron Twin Disc Getter, standard KR rectifier that came with the unit, and Acme 274b, top 10%. And they all sound really good. Very difficult to tell the difference between them. If I had to pick, the NOS Haltron has more visceral impact today. Tomorrow...well...

What are you running them with? I tried the Haltron / FIVRE with the 242s and it didn't do much.
 
What are you running them with? I tried the Haltron / FIVRE with the 242s and it didn't do much.
With Gold Lion Genalex KT77s.
 
Lampi is back. And it is running very quietly indeed - no more tranny hum. It now has more heater selections than a Pacific I believe.

I am thinking of a hardwood top with larger holes as last night two new additions simply wouldn't fit in the rectifier holes and I had to remove the top to try them. The same is true for the triode sockets where the bases are too recessed for an AD1 adapter.

The Rod Coleman mod is very effective and very gentle on the valves on power up. Caveat is you must power down when rolling but in truth I always did that anyway.

Here's a shot showing RD27AS against an Amperex 211.

Note the RD is on a B4 to UX4 socket. So it is a bit of a misleading shot.

So Lampi spec now relative to an original early B7:

Dueland copper foil 0.47uF (in original) output caps via one set of WBTs.
Jupiter copper foil 2.2 uF via another set of WBTs.
Audio Note's finest silver tants on the RCA jacks.
Audio Note silver UX4 sockets.
Custom built Toroidy transformer - the best they do potted in an extremely nice chrome cover. Cost? £140.
Mil spec heater selection selection switch which is superbly satisfyingly clunky!:)
Rod Coleman heater regulation.
Huge Rod Coleman heatsink. I noticed this does get quite warm running the RDs.
Original Big 7 DAC board.
Active triode loading via 6N6P.
Rectifier modded from 6X5 to 5U4G.

I want to wait for the second set of 100% RDs before I comment on this new Tesla acquisition.

This DAC does sound better than it did. Hardly surprising given the poor state of the power supply before it got sorted.

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What are you running them with? I tried the Haltron / FIVRE with the 242s and it didn't do much.
Jason has a TRP...different circuit, so cant compare to the GG/Pac circuit in terms of recti pairings.
 
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Lampi is back. And it is running very quietly indeed - no more tranny hum. It now has more heater selections than a Pacific I believe.

I am thinking of a hardwood top with larger holes as last night two new additions simply wouldn't fit in the rectifier holes and I had to remove the top to try them. The same is true for the triode sockets where the bases are too recessed for an AD1 adapter.

The Rod Coleman mod is very effective and very gentle on the valves on power up. Caveat is you must power down when rolling but in truth I always did that anyway.

Here's a shot showing RD27AS against an Amperex 211.

Note the RD is on a B4 to UX4 socket. So it is a bit of a misleading shot.

So Lampi spec now relative to an original early B7:

Dueland copper foil 0.47uF (in original) output caps via one set of WBTs.
Jupiter copper foil 2.2 uF via another set of WBTs.
Audio Note's finest silver tants on the RCA jacks.
Audio Note silver UX4 sockets.
Custom built Toroidy transformer - the best they do potted in an extremely nice chrome cover. Cost? £140.
Mil spec heater selection selection switch which is superbly satisfyingly clunky!:)
Rod Coleman heater regulation.
Huge Rod Coleman heatsink. I noticed this does get quite warm running the RDs.
Original Big 7 DAC board.
Active triode loading via 6N6P.
Rectifier modded from 6X5 to 5U4G.

I want to wait for the second set of 100% RDs before I comment on this new Tesla acquisition.

This DAC does sound better than it did. Hardly surprising given the poor state of the power supply before it got sorted.

img_20200420_135011-jpg.64278

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Glad you're back in action. I can't imagine how difficult the wait must have been.
 
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