Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

Zero000

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Disclaimer: as usual this is just subjective BS to be taken with a bit of a pinch of salt. It is, however, what I perceive to be true. You may find otherwise and Goran certainly did. Many thanks to Goran for helping me source the valves.

Here's a few thoughts on the Tesla RD27AS.

I waited for a pair of 100% RD27AS before comparing to a pair of 100% Tesla AD1 - date code OJ as documented earlier in this thread.

The RD27AS were made in 1979 and 1980, so not the same year but pretty close. One looked new, the other shows some sign of use.

Let me say I spent an entire evening listening to the RDs and I really enjoyed it. So in its own right it is a good valve. But there are quite a few good valves around.

I was going to write a detailed review of various tracks comparing AD1 to the RDs but the problem was this. For me, after just playing two tracks on the RDs and then following up with AD1, I just thought it would be a pointless exercise.

The reason for this was I instantly found AD1 to be preferable. So why do I make this statement?

Even without matching volume levels i.e. I could play AD1 louder or quieter than the RDs, I found AD1 to be cleaner, more resolved. As I wrote to Ked yesterday privately, AD1 just knows what it is doing. RD sounds a bit echoey and diffuse by comparison. The RDs throw a big soundstage but it is less precise in its image definition. AD1 clearly "knows" where everything is and there's a better sense of everything being separated in the acoustic.

There's another area where AD1 wins too. The bass is more tuneful and better defined.

The system I used to evaluate this for those who don't know is a pair of Apogee Duetta Interstella loudspeakers, a modern Apogee based on the original Duetta and a Luxman M-800a and matching Lux pre C-800F. Playback was via a Lampizator Big 7 which has been heavily modified and is far superior to the original product supplied by Lampizator, even though it retains the original DAC board. It has a 4V 2A switch position which is the heater spec for both these valves, though RD is actually quoted as 2 to 2.3A for some reason.

The output caps I used were Dueland copper foil 0.47uF rather than the other choice, Jupiter 2.2uF copper foil.

So RD is a nice addition to the collection and it is awesomely made. Despite being large and therefore more susceptible to microphony, it is kept to low levels. But it is not as low as the AD1, which is an absolute champion on this parameter.

RD fought as well as it could. Next up I will probably do AD1 versus Loewe AD1/400. Winner takes on Osram Marconi PX25.
 
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adamaley

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Just to clarify, since Tesla only made AD1ns, that's what you're referring to in this post? Nevertheless, I'm still even more excited to receive my Tesla AD1n.
 

Zero000

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Just to clarify, since Tesla only made AD1ns, that's what you're referring to in this post? Nevertheless, I'm still even more excited to receive my Tesla AD1n.

Yeah as I said look back a few pages for precise details on the OJ date code Tesla AD1n I used including pics.

dminches you have a PM.
 

Golum

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Glad you did the comparison Justin and your findings are of course for me more then valid and appreciated. Readers will anyhow have two more great options to choose from if they are willing to explore a bit uncommon roads for which they might be very nicely rewarded.
Anyhow looking fw to more opinions and bigger "data base".

Let us know how the clashes went further ;).

Take care;
G
 

Zero000

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For anyone looking for something new, I thought I'd put this on the map.

When I used to use an Air Tight ATM2, virtually all the 6550 and KT88 I tried in it were, IMHO, sub par. Only two made the grade, the EAT KT88 and Tung Sol 6550 NOS. Perhaps surprisingly, the EAT was easily the best and substantially ahead of the Tung-Sol. You might even want to slap one in an ARC preamp.

So I reckon these 300B may well be surprisingly good. After owning KR RK 300B, I would definitely take a risk on the EAT instead.

https://www.europeanaudioteam.com/en/e.a.t.-300b-valve-wp000024.html
 

adamaley

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This'll be an interesting addition to the list of contenders. At $1695, it's even more expensive than the Taks. Glass thickness looks to be similar to that of the new KR glass.
 

Crashem

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I know the Fivre 5R4GY was getting some love earlier. But has anyone tried the Fivre 5Z3? 5Z3 would be exact dupe of 5U4G aside from base where 5R4GY might be compatible but slightly different. As FYI, at least a couple of eBay sellers I trust selling both Fivre’s for around $100 NOS and available in quantity.

Also, any recommended rectifier pairings to try with WE 275A?

Just ordered my SE Pacific to upgrade my GG1. So trying to build a little tube collection in advance of receiving it. Happy to hear any other recommendations to try and slowing going through this thread.
 
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denimhunter

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I know the Fivre 5R4GY was getting some love earlier. But has anyone tried the Fivre 5Z3? 5Z3 would be exact dupe of 5U4G aside from base where 5R4GY might be compatible but slightly different. As FYI, at least a couple of eBay sellers I trust selling both Fivre’s for around $100 NOS and available in quantity.

Also, any recommended rectifier pairings to try with WE 275A?

Just ordered my SE Pacific to upgrade my GG1. So trying to build a little tube collection in advance of receiving it. Happy to hear any other recommendations to try and slowing going through this thread.
As far as I know, 5z3 can be used in place of 5u4 but not identical to 5u4. it has different voltage drop. It’s has slightly higher drop than 5u4 but lower than 5r4.
 

Crashem

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As far as I know, 5z3 can be used in place of 5u4 but not identical to 5u4. it has different voltage drop. It’s has slightly higher drop than 5u4 but lower than 5r4.

Just did a double check. It shares the same sheet on Frank’s. Can you point me to where it describes the 5z3 having different voltage drop than 5U4G?
 

Golum

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Just ordered my SE Pacific to upgrade my GG1. So trying to build a little tube collection in advance of receiving it. Happy to hear any other recommendations to try and slowing going through this thread.

Congrats on the great DAC you’ve chosen.
If you are ordering tubes while slowly going through this thread, i’m afraid you’ll end up with stash of tubes which will last well into 22nd century :p:cool:
 
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Crashem

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Congrats on the great DAC you’ve chosen.
If you are ordering tubes while slowly going through this thread, i’m afraid you’ll end up with stash of tubes which will last well into 22nd century :p:cool:

HAHA.

Please feel free to give me some must try please :)
 

Crashem

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Where are you located?
A list would be more than enough, but if you’re offering....

I actually have quite of stash of compatible rectifiers for Paciifc from Golden Gate. I just want to see what the current thoughts on must try combos to test
 

kernelbob

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In my GG2 I like the GZ480, I have not used the Acme274 in GG2 yet since I am using that in my amp.
I just purchased a Psvane ACME 274B for my balanced Pacific DAC (it should arrive this week). Up to now, I've been using the default 5U4G. Your comparison of the 274 with the GZ480 would be welcome. By the way, I owned a balanced GG, trading it in for the Pacific.

Thanks,
Robert
 

Golum

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On the topic of GZ480. Comparison done by my buddy Fabio in GA+ TRP:
“Did a quick rectifier shootout with GZ480, RK5U4G, ACME274 and Taka.
The GZ480 has the treble extension of the ACME but the presence and midrange fullness of the Taka at the same time. Bass is super precise and controlled. It has the lowest noise floor and reveals the most details. The RK5U4G sounds good as always but is slightly flatter in the presentation. The sound is very clean and most SS-like of the bunch. The mid-range focus of the Taka does not help her in the new setting. It lacks a bit the openeness and transient response. I don’t get the same live-event feeling like with the GZ480”
 

kernelbob

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Thanks Golum for your post of Fabio's rectifier comparison. Looks like a GZ480 might be in my future. I can see where tube rolling can become a habit.

Robert
 

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