Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread
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Niiiiice!
Adapters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Gold-P...483982?hash=item2caa86384e:g:RioAAOSw6wRW~eoL
You'll get them once you're back from the South pole
Adapters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Gold-P...483982?hash=item2caa86384e:g:RioAAOSw6wRW~eoL
You'll get them once you're back from the South pole
Adapters arrived surprisingly quickly for me. I think in three weeks. Tubes took way longer.Niiiiice!
Adapters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Gold-P...483982?hash=item2caa86384e:g:RioAAOSw6wRW~eoL
You'll get them once you're back from the South pole
Folks, I have to corroborate the findings of @Golum and @User211 regarding the Tesla AD1n. I don't want to go overboard and say that it slayed my recent favorite, the Acme 300B, so I won't, but I'll rather explain what it does better.
Dimensionality (3D, as some would call it). More than any other tube, space around instruments seems walkable. In order to do this, it expands the soundstage considerably in all directions. Instruments seem more tangible to be touched. Texture, body, weight, speed. It also ranks up there as one of the quietest tubes I've tried, if not the most quiet. Dynamics are amped up as well making low level detail more formed.
The thing is other tubes have starker dynamics because that's their calling card. Others may seem to have more transparency because their images aren't dense. This tube seems to have it all, and so you may just miss the trees for the forest sometimes - but that's the beauty of it.
Dimensionality (3D, as some would call it). More than any other tube, space around instruments seems walkable. In order to do this, it expands the soundstage considerably in all directions. Instruments seem more tangible to be touched. Texture, body, weight, speed. It also ranks up there as one of the quietest tubes I've tried, if not the most quiet. Dynamics are amped up as well making low level detail more formed.
The thing is other tubes have starker dynamics because that's their calling card. Others may seem to have more transparency because their images aren't dense. This tube seems to have it all, and so you may just miss the trees for the forest sometimes - but that's the beauty of it.
Adam I’m really glad you enjoy them!
Truth to be told entire glory finding ad1s goes to @User211 as he found them - i just marelly followed in this case combined with experiance from some tube amp guys where ad1 shines.
Guess now we’ll wittnes global shortage of those but there is also an option in terms of 4683 tube which is a variation of ad1 with more similar/equivalent spec to original ad1 then ad1n by Tesla.
Anyhow golden discovery...
Truth to be told entire glory finding ad1s goes to @User211 as he found them - i just marelly followed in this case combined with experiance from some tube amp guys where ad1 shines.
Guess now we’ll wittnes global shortage of those
but there is also an option in terms of 4683 tube which is a variation of ad1 with more similar/equivalent spec to original ad1 then ad1n by Tesla.Anyhow golden discovery...
Yeah, definitely, credit to him, but to you too for providing a good, reliable source.Adam I’m really glad you enjoy them!
Truth to be told entire glory finding ad1s goes to @User211 as he found them - i just marelly followed in this case combined with experiance from some tube amp guys where ad1 shines.
Guess now we’ll wittnes global shortage of those
Anyhow golden discovery...
I am glad you are hearing pretty much what I hear with them.
I just sold Howiebrou a pair of RD27AS so let's see if he likes them in his Pac. Will take a few days for him to get them.
Loewe AD1 is different but also very good. In all honesty though I still think the Tesla AD1 is better.
I have a pair of Lampi Anniversary/KR 5U4G tubes NEVER used. I bought from the factory in 2016. Accepting offers. First $U800 incl shippping in NA takes them. I will donate $25 to the cause as soon as they sell.
After looking into many DHTs and what we can use, I decided to write here two specs for different tubes.
Having on Pacific and GG2, 5 position rotary switch which is adjusting heater circuit in the DACs with the numbers below we can I believe easier navigate through different tubes and maybe look for some alternatives in the wast world of DHTs. First number represents heater voltage and second is heater current per tube model.
Using the figures below you can for example see that rotary switch for regular ad1 should be set in PX4 position while for Tesla ad1n in PX25 position.
Maybe this should also be put in Pacific thread as it mostly relates to Pac and GG users.
If i made any mistake please correct me, as in several cases for one tube type i found a bit different numbers from different manufacturers.
Please note KR242 is spec wise not the same as Elrog 242.
PX25: 4V; 2A
RD27AS: 4V; 1.8-2.3A
PX4: 4V; 1.0A
ad1: 4V; 0.95A
ad1n: 4V; 2A
KR242: 4V; 0.65A
101D: 4.5V; 1.0A
45: 2.5V; 1.5A
300b: 5V; 1.2/3A
100T: 5V; 2.0A
842: 5V; 1.9A
Having on Pacific and GG2, 5 position rotary switch which is adjusting heater circuit in the DACs with the numbers below we can I believe easier navigate through different tubes and maybe look for some alternatives in the wast world of DHTs. First number represents heater voltage and second is heater current per tube model.
Using the figures below you can for example see that rotary switch for regular ad1 should be set in PX4 position while for Tesla ad1n in PX25 position.
Maybe this should also be put in Pacific thread as it mostly relates to Pac and GG users.
If i made any mistake please correct me, as in several cases for one tube type i found a bit different numbers from different manufacturers.
Please note KR242 is spec wise not the same as Elrog 242.
PX25: 4V; 2A
RD27AS: 4V; 1.8-2.3A
PX4: 4V; 1.0A
ad1: 4V; 0.95A
ad1n: 4V; 2A
KR242: 4V; 0.65A
101D: 4.5V; 1.0A
45: 2.5V; 1.5A
300b: 5V; 1.2/3A
100T: 5V; 2.0A
842: 5V; 1.9A
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Thanks for this very useful breakdown. I have a question though. What switch position is used for the PX25? I thought it was the 101D position, but that is limited to 1.0A per your chart.
Another thing I've noticed in practice is that with the dial on 101D for the AD1n, it takes about a minute for the tube to start making music after I turn on the DAC. I've never had to wait for any tube to start generating music regardless of where the dial is positioned.
Hi Adam!
Rotary switch position is the same for 101d and PX25. For those 5, lets call them "originally stated tubes" on the rotary switch, I believe they work in the optimal working conditions (voltage & current).
As we came later raving about the PX25 it operates on the same heater voltage, but I guess still under safe current margin for DAC, Lukasz "approved" it for use and even on my DAC its printed on the back panel. Same goes for T100 which should be used on 300b position.
For ad1n - as far as I noticed it starts playing in my Pac kind of immediately...strange indeed...
Post a photo of AD1n when it's making music if you are concerned or can be bothered. I'm curious to see how well lit the filament looks. It's a good guide to see if all is vaguely OK.
Or just raise the adaptor and use a meter to measure the heater current if you can.
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