Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

Everything sounds perfect after about a minute. It just takes longer to get there compared to any other tube I've used.
 
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This is only on the 101D setting. On the 300B setting, it's instantaneous, but that isn't the preferred setting so...
 
Everything sounds perfect after about a minute. It just takes longer to get there compared to any other tube I've used.
As the ad1n has hidden soft start inside the tube;):p
 
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Well in my Rod Coleman modded DAC they ALL take ages to start working.

But prior to that mod, AD1n took a while. So did the EML AD1. I don't believe it could supply the correct current, as observed by the guy that did the Coleman mod, but I am not sure that's the reason they took so long.
 
Do you mean Western Electric? I'm not sure it's usable in a Lampi, hopefully someone can confirm.
 
It has the same heater and current ratings as 300B so it should be a brilliant match.

Could be an excellent valve.
WE as you said. But I just checked PSvane 275A WE 1:1 replica and they state for their "take" 2.5V and 2.5A which I would say is a no go for Lampi...
 
Seems PSvane played a bit too much...WE has a spec you mentioned and that one is OK. PSvane same model to be avoided...
 
Ah. Here we go. Psvane BS:

Descriptions: Psvane WE275 Replica – equivalent to 2A3: The 275A tube is often referred by audiophile as ‘baby 300B’ due to its silky sound. It was one of Western Electric’s early directly heated triodes and used in PP & SE circuits of the 1930?s portable high fidelity, theater sound amplifiers – like the “silver” circa 1935 Western Electric D95508 portable amp. The original WE275A tubes has heater voltage at 5V and was not widely used in home stereo; In this new Psvane WE Replica 275 tube, Psvane Audio has modified the tube heater voltage to the standard 2.5V then you can use it to replace a typical 2A3 tube – which is of smaller glass enclosure size than 300B tube
 
I mentioned somewhere that it is unobtainable at least until ‘21;)

I have a Shuguang GZ 480 I can sell. It arrived with a loose piece of glass from the interior base (I can see exactly where it came from). Between the time I ordered it and the Rectifier arriving, I sold my Pac, so I haven't been able to test it. I'll offer a full refund if it doesn't function as it should. All the interior parts seem to be in perfect shape, so I think it will likely work fine. PM if interested in making an offer.
 
I have a Shuguang GZ 480 I can sell. It arrived with a loose piece of glass from the interior base (I can see exactly where it came from). Between the time I ordered it and the Rectifier arriving, I sold my Pac, so I haven't been able to test it. I'll offer a full refund if it doesn't function as it should. All the interior parts seem to be in perfect shape, so I think it will likely work fine. PM if interested in making an offer.
How much does it work
 
I just got my pair of AD1s. Is there a specific way to get them into the adapters? I am afraid to push too hard but it does seems like I will have to apply some force. Should I put them in straight or does one edge go in before another.

Also, which heater setting should I be using in my Big 7 MKII? 300B or 45/242?
 
David never push them straight down...tilt the tube towards one direction to snap with the base and then just straighten it up...should be fairly easy...
For selector - check what i wrote in one of the posts regarding heater V and A and you’ll figure it out...is it Tesla? If Tesla ad1n then its not the same setting as for Phillips ad1 - take care of that!

Cheers
 
It is a Tesla.
 

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