Post Your Frequency Response Curve!

I'm not quite in the same realm as most on here, but I'll have a go, hopefully this what you are after:
Thehump around 80 hz is believed to be a room mode, which has been reduced as much as possible via Anthem ARC.
Room dimensions 5 x 5 x 2.2m
Microphone at primary seating position approx 3.5m from speakers.

REW with 1/3 smoothingSystem frequency response 1:3 smoothing.png

REW with 1/12 smoothing
System frequency response 1:12 smoothing.png

System photos:
AV System.JPG
AV Rack.jpg
 
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Extremely crude, I just dropped the big BAYZ into the room last night, and I have not yet optimized placement (though they’re very close to where I last had them, I just haven’t gotten the tape measure out yet.) I expect the bass response in-room can be modified a bit with tweaked positioning, the BAYZ are ported and do take a little finesse to get optimized.

Again, I am trying to keep with the OP, using iPhone and the analyzer app for consistency.

A weighting:
1CF9EE06-2F7E-4AD3-8454-0F339D8C059E.png

And Flat:
25E0FCEE-3370-484A-9F78-BBFF0799F4E0.png

FA3F3B22-32DA-4DAD-B571-1019BA63626F.jpeg
 
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Without knowing your room dimensions (and listening position and speaker positions), it's hard to say. Sometimes if the resonance is due to front and back wall, you can in theory put up a lot of thick 4" absorption panel all over the wall to see if that helps. If it's between ceiling and floor, treatment for the ceiling to alter the distance between ceiling and floor might help. Another option is to buy a tunable Helmholtz resonator like Vicoustic Vari-Bass Ultra and tune it to the specific frequency you want to absorb but usually these only work for very narrow frequency bands and you have to place them quite precisely so you really need to know where the extra 60-70Hz is coming from first and probably demo one of these traps at the location where the 60-70Hz is loudest and see how well they work. Once again, you may need several of them.

The thickness btw is probably not solely coming from the increased dB. This is why it's better to use REW to measure to see what the RT60/waterfall plot looks like because it is likely that there is a resonance that takes a long time to decay. Sometimes you put up traps and the frequency response measurements don't change much but you can clearly hear quite a dramatic change because that frequency is no longer echoing around the room as much.
Thanks, that’s very informative and gives me more to think about!
 
I'm not quite in the same realm as most on here, but I'll have a go, hopefully this what you are after:
Thehump around 80 hz is believed to be a room mode, which has been reduced as much as possible via Anthem ARC.
Room dimensions 5 x 5 x 2.2m
Microphone at primary seating position approx 3.5m from speakers.

REW with 1/12 smoothing
View attachment 104886
To optimize your sub's frequency response, configure REW to just view 10 to 100 Hz and disable smoothing. Try gradually increasing the delay for one of your subs while you watch the FR in REW. That may improve both the 60 Hz null & the 80 Hz peak. If not, reset the delay in that sub and try increasing the delay in the other one. With a little fiddling, you may be able to resolve both of those room mode issues just using the delays. If not, relocating one or both of your subs may be needed to achieve a flatter low end response.
 
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I'm not quite in the same realm as most on here, but I'll have a go, hopefully this what you are after:
Thehump around 80 hz is believed to be a room mode, which has been reduced as much as possible via Anthem ARC.
Room dimensions 5 x 5 x 2.2m
Microphone at primary seating position approx 3.5m from speakers.

REW with 1/3 smoothingView attachment 104885

REW with 1/12 smoothing
View attachment 104886

System photos:

Strange that DIRAC wasn't able to tame more of that 80hz mode. Are you sure it's the sub and not the speakers? Are the speakers high passed, and is DIRAC active on the speakers as well?
 
Here are my measurements. Sorry could not get the app to work properly for some reason, so used REW instead.

This is the full range 20hz to 10,000khz.
Mains2.png


This is the 5hz to 200hz range to show the extension I have below 20hz, now that it bass you can feel. :cool:

Sub2.png
 
Here are my measurements. Sorry could not get the app to work properly for some reason, so used REW instead.

This is the full range 20hz to 10,000khz.
View attachment 104938


This is the 5hz to 200hz range to show the extension I have below 20hz, now that it bass you can feel. :cool:

View attachment 104940

Looks very even and controlled, but also quite lean (as in little bass, not much of a tilt/slope). How do you experience the tonal balance? Not toofamiliar with the Lyngdorf but I assume you can define a tilt / target response there if you like? Is this the default/suggested correction from Lyngdorf or have you adjusted manually?
 
Looks very even and controlled, but also quite lean (as in little bass, not much of a tilt/slope). How do you experience the tonal balance? Not toofamiliar with the Lyngdorf but I assume you can define a tilt / target response there if you like? Is this the default/suggested correction from Lyngdorf or have you adjusted manually?
That is the default Lyngdorf calibration. RoomPerfect does not allow you to set target curves as part of the correction, but you can apply what they call "voicing" post calibration. You can adjust tilt (using a High Shelf filter) and other EQ filters through that and comes with some redefined "voices". While I have tried them I always end up back at the default setting as for my ears it has the best clarity to the music.

Interesting your comment on the lean look to the graph, as it does not sound bass light, the bass is very tight and controlled. In turn it does not sound bass heavy either and as I mentioned you get bass you can feel and the sofa certainly confirms that.

I would be interested if you have any recommendations for the amount of tilt to try for example, as I am always happy to experiment.
 
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That is the default Lyngdorf calibration. RoomPerfect does not allow you to set target curves as part of the correction, but you can apply what they call "voicing" post calibration. You can adjust tilt (using a High Shelf filter) and other EQ filters through that and comes with some redefined "voices". While I have tried them I always end up back at the default setting as for my ears it has the best clarity to the music.

Interesting your comment on the lean look to the graph, as it does not sound bass light, the bass is very tight and controlled. In turn it does not sound bass heavy either and as I mentioned you get bass you can feel and the sofa certainly confirms that.

I would be interested if you have any recommendations for the amount of tilt to try for example, as I am always happy to experiment.

You certainly have good low end extension down to below 20hz, so I believe that you can feel it in your sofa, but that doesn't necessarily mean the overall balance is right. That being said it's partly a matter of taste and/or what you're used to as well, and different rooms react differently.

If i were to tune your system I would try something along these lines (see blue line below). So try to start a rise around 500hz to lift the midbass area, and increase the level/shelf from 100hz and below with 2-3dB. If that ends up muddying the sound, you could try starting the tilt later (at around 200hz as in the green line, but still lifting the dip between 250-400hz a bit if possible). Also try to live with it for a few days before dismissing it. :)

1677152530988.png
 
Great to see focus on frequency response here, which is one of several very important factors for sound quality.

I would recommend showing a separate graph for each channel, since one easily get's cancellation when the mic isn't placed accurate enough. And even with very accurate mic distance to each speaker, there's normally some cancellation in the highest frequencies.

Obviously both smoothing and type of resolution effects how it looks like. Example below with 1/12 octave smoothing and with two different resolutions on the y-axis. Left and right channel shown separately.

Left speaker freq response.jpg

Right speaker freq response.jpg

Left speaker freq response_higher resolution.jpg
Right speaker freq response_higher resolution.jpg
 
That is the default Lyngdorf calibration. RoomPerfect does not allow you to set target curves as part of the correction, but you can apply what they call "voicing" post calibration. You can adjust tilt (using a High Shelf filter) and other EQ filters through that and comes with some redefined "voices". While I have tried them I always end up back at the default setting as for my ears it has the best clarity to the music.

Interesting your comment on the lean look to the graph, as it does not sound bass light, the bass is very tight and controlled. In turn it does not sound bass heavy either and as I mentioned you get bass you can feel and the sofa certainly confirms that.

I would be interested if you have any recommendations for the amount of tilt to try for example, as I am always happy to experiment.
Regarding target curves, I shoot for a flat mid range, boost the frequencies below my 80 Hz XO point by ~ 6 dB, and roll off frequencies from 5 kHz - 20 kHz by 5 dB. That's fairly consistent with what Sean Olive, Floyd Toole and others have found to be the most accurate-sounding FR target curve in a typical home listening room.

The Measurement and Calibration of Sound Reproducing Systems
Subjectively-preferred-steady-state-room-curve-targets-in-a-typical-domestic-listening.png

----
The-prediction-of-Fig-5b-has-been-augmented-by-data-from-Fielder-30-to-show-examples.png
 
Regarding target curves, I shoot for a flat mid range, boost the frequencies below my 80 Hz XO point by ~ 6 dB, and roll off frequencies from 5 kHz - 20 kHz by 5 dB. That's fairly consistent with what Sean Olive, Floyd Toole and others have found to be the most accurate-sounding FR target curve in a typical home listening room.

The Measurement and Calibration of Sound Reproducing Systems
Subjectively-preferred-steady-state-room-curve-targets-in-a-typical-domestic-listening.png

----
The-prediction-of-Fig-5b-has-been-augmented-by-data-from-Fielder-30-to-show-examples.png
Thanks @henrich3 My Lyngdorf has a pre made 'voice' which is exactly what you describe. Lyngdorf call it Action, but I find it has too big an impact on the clarity of music is my system.. It great for demos of Godzilla V Kong, but not so much to George Michael for example. ;-)
 
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Thanks @henrich3 My Lyngdorf has a pre made 'voice' which is exactly what you describe. Lyngdorf call it Action, but I find it has too big an impact on the clarity of music is my system.. It great for demos of Godzilla V Kong, but not so much to George Michael for example. ;-)
I'm not sure why that target curve would negatively impact clarity. It sounds more accurate to my ear, regardless of what movie or music is playing. A flat frequency response sounds too weak in the low end and too bright in the high end to me. I've been to live rock concerts (eg. Eagles, Doobie Brothers, etc.) up front & center. The target curve that I use makes listening to their concert Blu-rays sound similar to what I heard live. Of course different rooms & room acoustics, different speakers, different electronics (Lyngdorf / Trinnov), different listening levels, and different personal preferences will affect our preferred target curves. There's no right or wrong, but the studies that I referenced are good guidelines.
 
You certainly have good low end extension down to below 20hz, so I believe that you can feel it in your sofa, but that doesn't necessarily mean the overall balance is right. That being said it's partly a matter of taste and/or what you're used to as well, and different rooms react differently.

If i were to tune your system I would try something along these lines (see blue line below). So try to start a rise around 500hz to lift the midbass area, and increase the level/shelf from 100hz and below with 2-3dB. If that ends up muddying the sound, you could try starting the tilt later (at around 200hz as in the green line, but still lifting the dip between 250-400hz a bit if possible). Also try to live with it for a few days before dismissing it. :)

View attachment 104947
@sigbergaudio Thank you for spending the time to mark that out on the graph. I have created a 'voice' to do that. At first using the 500hz made the sound more than muddy, boggy I would say. I moved to 200hz and that cleaned up the sound straight away.

I have ended up with the following filters to make the house curve:

High Shelf 200hz, -3db
High Shelf 5000hz, -1.5db

They give the desired curve. I will let them bed in over the weekend and report back. :)

Thanks.
 
I'm not sure why that target curve would negatively impact clarity. It sounds more accurate to my ear, regardless of what movie or music is playing. A flat frequency response sounds too weak in the low end and too bright in the high end to me. I've been to live rock concerts (eg. Eagles, Doobie Brothers, etc.) up front & center. The target curve that I use makes listening to their concert Blu-rays sound similar to what I heard live. Of course different rooms & room acoustics, different speakers, different electronics (Lyngdorf / Trinnov), different listening levels, and different personal preferences will affect our preferred target curves. There's no right or wrong, but the studies that I referenced are good guidelines.
I agree with all your points. Having been playing with the curves in conjunction REW, I think the the issue probably lies with the Lyndgorf curves. As they assume you have a flat starting point, which of course none of do, then they apply the curve. But using REW I can see what my actual response is and then tune the filters to match reality.

I am going to create my own curve with your settings and give that a go over the weekend and see how I get on. Thanks.
 
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I agree with all your points. Having been playing with the curves in conjunction REW, I think the the issue probably lies with the Lyndgorf curves. As they assume you have a flat starting point, which of course none of do, then they apply the curve. But using REW I can see what my actual response is and then tune the filters to match reality.

I am going to create my own curve with your settings and give that a go over the weekend and see how I get on. Thanks.

Personally I'm not sure I'd actively shape the tonal balance/slope above 500hz or so. Some speakers are naturally quite flat in the midrange, som speakers have a gradual slope all the way, and the room affects this too. Actively changing this doesn't necessarily sound better.

Put differently: If you want to try to shape along the lines of the Harman curve(s), I'd try to do that by adjusting the 20-500hz area, and leaving the rest as it is.
 
Personally I'm not sure I'd actively shape the tonal balance/slope above 500hz or so. Some speakers are naturally quite flat in the midrange, som speakers have a gradual slope all the way, and the room affects this too. Actively changing this doesn't necessarily sound better.

Put differently: If you want to try to shape along the lines of the Harman curve(s), I'd try to do that by adjusting the 20-500hz area, and leaving the rest as it is.
For clarity, no pun intended, are you referring here to my High Shelf 5000hz, -1.5db filter?
 

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