First of all it would be interesting to see some graphs of your speakers / subs measured inside your room as well , it makes comparing a bit easier .Your two provided graphs are evidence why your speakers and virtually all speakers need subs .
I use Clio 11 with calibrated mic myself this includes its own signal generator , 3 K euros .
Please do some clean 10 hz -20 khz sweeps without correction for this or that , 1:3 octave smooth factor.
Listener distance / tweeter height .
The below is taken from a 12 inch JL fathom review , i guess these are manufacturer specs .
Look at the ELF trim -12 +3 db , i guess ELF stands for "" extra low frequencies " this is the area where it states to be adjusting for room influences/ gain.
Take my top graph for example and ad a JL fathom in the mix , lets say cross at 40 hz .
nominal SPL is 75 db in this graph, at 20 hz the signal is 90 db (15 db louder ) at 27 hz its 76 db , at 40 hz its 82 db again .
The lower graph has a different measurement mic position , 20-50 cm can be enough , move your chair a bit and measure .
The top one is a 1/2 octave smoothed graph with 1/3 octave the oscillations are even greater
Seems to me a mission impossible what these active subs have to correct for in such a small freq area , its more likely a somewhat gradual facsimile line which is then reproduced .
Conclusion:
Good bass lays in speaker design / housing construction / units used / crossover design / amp match.
Even placed in an average room these qualities shine through in such way that a active sub only degrades the music
Active subs are on the market to make up for not optimal designed main speakers.
By the way if your main speakers need subs they cant be called real Full range speakers in the first place .
I do think subs can play a role with a movie system for explosions / thunder to create some extra rumble but not for a HQ music system .
But everybody needs to do what he or she sees fit , coming back to Rockport i d love to hear the Arrakis , very cool design
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