Soon to come, hORNS Universum mk4!

thanks guys!
you helped me a lot... so thanks again.
ked, the white color is more perl looking then actually white,
it called - Lamborghini white baloon LM224.009
with the lightning and color scheme on my Iphone11pro it looks more gold or silver like,
but its a glossy perl.

regarding the twiking, i played with some of them a bit, but im trying to get everthing loose, and after break in time i will address it again for fine tuning.
for amplifications rolling, i have a few in line to try with it, but my 120W a side truly bringing life with it, so im very happy with them
im thinking about SET 211 based or 845 for a more big and lush presentation.
but i will have the 300b YAMAMOTO coming in a week for a session, so lets see what he will done with the UNIs.


"Christoph - Can you take some pics from the pots to adjust the volume levels on the x-over?"
do you mean you want to see a pictures how he made the pots on the mk4?
 
The 300b won't work without biamp.

For 300b you will need more like an Allnic 300b of 50 watts.

211 the normal 20 watts or so don't work that well.

We normally prefer it best with big ming Da which is 80 watts, but I have seen it needs 40ish, sometimes less if there is more drive like with silvercore 833c. The kronzilla should work but I never heard it with it. Thoress hybrids work too, and lamm shall as well
 
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"Christoph - Can you take some pics from the pots to adjust the volume levels on the x-over?"
do you mean you want to see a pictures how he made the pots on the mk4?

Exactly.
That would be nice :cool:
 
The 300b won't work without biamp.

For 300b you will need more like an Allnic 300b of 50 watts.

211 the normal 20 watts or so don't work that well.

We normally prefer it best with big ming Da which is 80 watts, but I have seen it needs 40ish, sometimes less if there is more drive like with silvercore 833c. The kronzilla should work but I never heard it with it. Thoress hybrids work too, and lamm shall as well

The push pull EL84 will work very well
 
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i tried EL84 pp and didn't like it as my own KT120... it was close and not so much resolution as i like it to be.
it was lovely, but not as much as i was thought it will be.

You will have to biamp with it. Use two. Are you referring to the mycube audio
 
You will have to biamp with it. Use two. Are you referring to the mycube audio
The name of the company is MySound, the amps name is The Cube.
 

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Aviad once you know the right value on the pot with the required amps, you can replace them with a better quality resistor
 
December 2018.
 
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so, after a few months of waiting patiently its finally here.
its been playing almost non stop for 3-4 days now, with some fine tuning here in there during those hours.
every mid and twitter has their own Pot for gain, you can change also the angle of the drivers to adapt it to your listening position and length from the speakers.
for now im using my "Old" tube amps set,
its a custom made two monoblocks with 4xkt120 a side, and a 6sn7 based preamp. they puts 120W a side but played so wonderfully and smooth.
maybe in the future i will try some single ended stuff and others amps just for reference and trials till something will beat my own set.

i am very happy with my decision and wish to thanks again to Christoph and Ked for their help and inputs.

(my system on the racks are changing this days.. a new DAC and Turntable will be up in a few weeks... so it looks a bit "empty" there..)
View attachment 67040

View attachment 67039
Lovely. I could possibly get away with these horns as they don't look like Breast Pumps!
 
Congrats on the new speakers. They look great. As a multiway horn user, and as someone who got his horns manufactured by the same guys, I know the quality of their workmanship. I have gone a different way and just bought individual horns from them though.

I would suggest (in time) to check the attenuators. I have used several and found out some are clearly better than others. On my own system I use fostex r100t attenuators. The ones here seems to be generic L-Pad attenuators and I am sure they are doing what they are supposed to do and the designer has made trials ande decided on those.

Still, commercial manufacturers generally go for the ones like this one here; https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/elec...t-52h-for-constant-impedance-mono-p-5299.html as they sound close and are 1/10th of the cost of ones like the fostex I use.

Once everything is settled in, and you are enjoying your system, looking for ways to better the sound, you can make trials with better quality attenuators and enjoy a nice upgrade. I would suggest either fostex r100t or attenuators from intactaudio (half of emia) when you do so.

Have a great time enjoying your beautiful setup.
 
those L-pads sounds crappy!
the best is to find lvl and solder in Duelund silver Cast resistors or at least buy a Seiden switch and the necessary Cast values to get 2-3 steps which in most cases will do
the two to the left make me able to adjust my TAD TD-2002 above 6K level by approx 1,5db

CAST i filter.jpg
 
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those L-pads sounds crappy!
the best is to find lvl and solder in Duelund silver Cast resistors or at least buy a Seiden switch and the necessary Cast values to get 2-3 steps which in most cases will do
the two to the left adjust my TAD TD-2002 above 6K level by approx 1,5db

View attachment 67117

well, crappy is a strong term to use but looking at those speakers, they seem to be the low point and the place to start if one decides to do an upgrade.

The fostex r100t is not crappy, as well the intactaudio speakerformers... I have gone the same route with you Leif on my upper mids and trebles but for my mids, I have use the fostex r100t attenuators.
 
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